Bridge City KerfMaker?

[Frederick Skelly]

While looking up a BCT tool that someone else bought, I saw an (affordable) item that caught my eye - their KerfMaker. Here's a link to the catalog (http://www.bridgecitytools.com/default/featured/km-1-kerfmaker.html). Here's a link to the video (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PQ6_S6lZKLI).

Does anyone have one?

What do you make of it? (Even if you don't have one.)

I'm a bit reluctant to have an unsecured piece of aluminum in the vicinity of my saw blade. Am I overly concerned?

[Charles Lent]

The Microjig Matchfit DADO Stop will accomplish the same thing for less money, and do more. https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=microjig+matchfit&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=78615086663579&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_585zpagfys_e

And it has other capabilities. Don't hesitate to get the Dovetail Clamps. They can be used for many other things beside holding the Matchfit in place. Watch the videos here. https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-adk-adk_sbnt&hsimp=yhs-adk_sbnt&hspart=adk&p=matchfit+dado+stop+video#id=1&vid=de1617a7ad6b64e22932ed5fff5d10ed&action=click

Charley

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks for the tip Charles! I'll take a closer look at that.
Fred

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I really like mine, it works great. The great thing about it is that it is so simple to use.

Woodpeckers offered something similar, I think that it was a one time tool.

If you have a good set of calipers, your table saw is very accurate for measuring, you may be able to simply use your table saw to make the cuts based on measuring.

[Grant Wilkinson]

You will find several youtube videos showing how to make one. I did just that, and it works very well.

[Bill Dufour]

I would think a slide caliper would work the same for 1/10 the price and probably more accurate positioning with a thumb wheel.
Bill

[Rick Potter]

Google youtube 'kerfmaker'. I found one that is so simple to make even I can do it. Found it right after I ordered the Micro Jig model :confused:.

I am going to make several for presents, and a couple for me. Why? Because the home made one is one easy to store piece, and once adjusted for a blade, will stay there. Why make a couple? Because I have two different blades with flat bottoms, and it will be handy to have the kerfmaker set up already for each. Did I mention they were stupid simple?

The Micro Jig model is great though. I will be keeping it.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys! I didnt know there were home made options out there. Think I'll build one first and perhaps try a microjig too.
Fred

[Ben Rivel]

Ive got one and use it every time I cut a dado. Love it.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Andrew. Thanks Ben! It's a clever idea for sure!

[Wade Lippman]

The Microjig Matchfit DADO Stop will accomplish the same thing for less money, and do more. https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=microjig+matchfit&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=78615086663579&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_585zpagfys_e

And it has other capabilities. Don't hesitate to get the Dovetail Clamps. They can be used for many other things beside holding the Matchfit in place. Watch the videos here. https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-adk-adk_sbnt&hsimp=yhs-adk_sbnt&hspart=adk&p=matchfit+dado+stop+video#id=1&vid=de1617a7ad6b64e22932ed5fff5d10ed&action=click

Charley

At the risk of asking a stupid question, can it be used with a Festool clamp
http://www.toolnut.com/festool-489570-screw-clamps-for-festool-mft-and-guide-rail-system-4-11-16-120-mm-2-pack.html?
utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz5y2-vC41QIViYizCh2yPwPJEAQYAiABEgIa1fD_BwE (http://www.toolnut.com/festool-489570-screw-clamps-for-festool-mft-and-guide-rail-system-4-11-16-120-mm-2-pack.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz5y2-vC41QIViYizCh2yPwPJEAQYAiABEgIa1fD_BwE)
or does it actually need to be a dovetail?

The price of the jig isn't too bad, but if I have to buy the clamp...

[James Zhu]

No, Festool clamp does not work with Matchfit Dado stop, it has to be the dovetail clamp.

[Charles Lent]

Actually, you can use most any clamp to hold the MatchFit against your table saw fence without using the dovetail slot in the back of the MatchFit. If you have a cast iron or steel top on your table saw, the MatchFit has a bottom magnet that will even help hold it in place, but I like to clamp it to my fence to be certain that there is no positioning error while using it. When not using the MatchFit, I use the magnet in the bottom of it to attach it to a metal panel on the wall of my shop to the right of my Unisaw, along with several other magnetic based tools. This keeps it out of the drawers and easy to reach from the Unisaw operating position when I want it. I've also added a board with dovetail slots, and attached it to the bottom of a nearby wall cabinet so I can store the dovetail clamps close to both the Unisaw and the MatchFit jig.

But if you don't buy the dovetail clamps you will be missing out on a great new idea. You can dovetail slot the bottom of a straight edge board and then use the clamps in this slot to clamp the straight edge down. They will slide apart or together any distance needed along this dovetail slot to clamp the straight edge down to a sheet of plywood or anything that you want to cut or rout without protruding above the straight edge, so they do not interfere with the circular saw or router. I've also dovetail slotted the back side of my sacrificial fences for my table saw, so I can quickly attach them to my table saw fence using these dovetail clamps. I also have a short board that I add to the table saw fence when using the fence as a cross cut stop, and I've added dovetail slots to the back of it as well.

Any tool that you want to temporarily clamp to your workbench can have a plywood base attached to it with dovetail slots cut into the bottom for these clamps.. Then the tool can be easily clamped to the bench, and the clamps will not get in the way above this board. I have a board on the bottom of my Leigh D4R Pro and also my FMT Pro jigs that are now dovetail slotted for these clamps to hold the jigs to my workbench top or to any saw horse, etc. I'm still finding new and great ways to use them. These dovetail clamps aren't just for holding the MatchFit Dado stop. Once you have a pair of them they will quickly become some of your favorite shop clamps, and for me, they are well worth the price of a pair of them. So much so, that I'm about to order a second pair.

Charley

[Ray Newman]

At Rick Potter's suggestion in post #7, I watched the video about shop-fabricating a kerf maker jig. Quick and easy-- see:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNZWlLPw0HI

[Doug Garson]

At Rick Potter's suggestion in post #7, I watched the video about shop-fabricating a kerf maker jig. Quick and easy-- see:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNZWlLPw0HI

I made the one in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsfOWa_TFR8 and it works great but the linked one above looks easier to make and just as functional.

[Frederick Skelly]

At Rick Potter's suggestion in post #7, I watched the video about shop-fabricating a kerf maker jig. Quick and easy-- see:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNZWlLPw0HI


This was great. Thanks Ray!

[Frederick Skelly]

I made the one in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsfOWa_TFR8 and it works great but the linked one above looks easier to make and just as functional.

Thanks Doug. Yes, I agree the link above is a tad easier to build too. May build one of each. We'll see. :)

[Rick Potter]

Yup, the easy one, by 'Pask Makes' is the video I was referring too. I am almost done making six of them. Like I said, two for me, and the rest gifts for friends. I am making one long enough to use for half laps up to about 3".

Plan to try out the MatchFit tomorrow. Might try to play with some inlay, for practice.


Edit: Handy hint.......... Hardest part is getting the rabbet exactly half the depth of the board. Using scraps, that were not all the exact same thickness, I had to keep adjusting my router table. The slide works best if the lower part is just proud of the upper part on the side the washer goes. If it comes out slightly undersize, the washer doesn't hold too well. Easily fixed with a few strokes of sandpaper to thin out the upper. Hope this makes sense.

Hint II......Make the kerf maker from a single wider board (I used about 2 3/4"), run the rabbet on both sides, flip the board so that the rabbet is on opposite sides to keep as much bearing surface as possible when doing the second side, then slice it in half to get your two sides. Easier to work with one wide piece than two narrow ones. Again, I hope this makes sense.

Wish I could do pics.

[Frederick Skelly]

Yup, the easy one, by 'Pask Makes' is the video I was referring too.

Edit: Handy hint.......... Hardest part is getting the rabbet exactly half the depth of the board. Using scraps, that were not all the exact same thickness, I had to keep adjusting my router table. The slide works best if the lower part is just proud of the upper part on the side the washer goes. If it comes out slightly undersize, the washer doesn't hold too well. Easily fixed with a few strokes of sandpaper to thin out the upper. Hope this makes sense.

Hint II......Make the kerf maker from a single wider board (I used about 2 3/4"), run the rabbet on both sides, flip the board so that the rabbet is on opposite sides to keep as much bearing surface as possible when doing the second side, then slice it in half to get your two sides. Easier to work with one wide piece than two narrow ones. Again, I hope this makes sense.

Ray, I made the one from Pask Makes and used the tips Rick provided above. It took some effort to dial-in the blade width - not at all sure why. But once I did, it works great! I guess I dont need to buy the BCT model after all.

So thanks guys, for the video and the tips.
Fred

[Johnny Barr]

I think this is one of the best ...... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL5lrmrbgKc

Why, because most of the kerf makers mentioned here don't actually make a cut to get an exact kerf width, except this video. Even measuring with calipers after a cut isn't as good as using a cut piece as part of the jig. The Matchfit measures the blade width but if the blade isn't 100% parallel to the slots and fence then the blade width and kerf won't be the same. I've made this and it works perfectly every time. In another video he suggests adding a bit of painters tape to the inside edge which I have done and it gives a tighter fit. I hope this helps someone.

[Rick Potter]

Tried out the MatchFit yesterday, and I gotta say I got an absolutely perfect fit first time, as well as second and third. The only thing I do not like is the tiny knobs to tighten, but that is nit picking. I highly recommend it.

My home made Pask kerfmakers are almost done, and I can see that they will work great too. I have a narrow kerf Infinity 'General' blade and it has rakers to make a flat bottom, plus my Freud standard kerf rip blade, which also makes a flat bottom kerf, so each blade will have a Pask kerfmaker adjusted for it. Once adjusted with the screw for blade kerf, the only adjustment on them each time will be for the width of your stock. Really quick to set up.