Carter Blade Stabilizer Question

[Bernie Kopfer]

I have a Rikon 10" BS which i use for curve cuts and also if ineed to do a quick cut off etc. My question is if I replace the Rikon bearing guides with the Carter Stabilizer will it be readily usable for making straight cuts. Not resawing. also how well does it work for curves in thick hard wood? Seems it would tend to wander.
Your experiences will help me decide wether the stabilizer meets my needs.

[Larry Frank]

I have the 10" Rikon and put the stabilizer on it. I really like it for curved cuts and use it normally for up to about 3/4" material. You can do straight cuts with it but have to be careful. One would expect this as you are not holding the blade with guides. The size of the motor limit how thick of material you can cut. This is a light duty bandsaw.

I use mine as an in between my Hegner Scroll Saw and a bigger Jet Bandsaw used mainly for resaw

[lowell holmes]

Google Alex Snodgrass and watch his videos. He addresses various issues.

[Bernie Kopfer]

Google Alex Snodgrass and watch his videos. He addresses various issues.
This where I got the idea that Stabilizer might be a good option to replace the bearing guides with. Recently I cut legs for a Bombe' chest which consIsted of long slow curves on a 3x3 poplar blank. Went ok ,but what I am wondering would using the Stabilizer have given me the same result in thick wood such as that? Or would the bottom of the cut (blade) wander? I have a larger BS for resawing and use the Rikon for quick cuts and curved work.

[Edwin Santos]

This where I got the idea that Stabilizer might be a good option to replace the bearing guides with. Recently I cut legs for a Bombe' chest which consIsted of long slow curves on a 3x3 poplar blank. Went ok ,but what I am wondering would using the Stabilizer have given me the same result in thick wood such as that? Or would the bottom of the cut (blade) wander? I have a larger BS for resawing and use the Rikon for quick cuts and curved work.

If your cut required long slow curves as is typical with legs, I do not see where the Carter Stabilizer would improve things. From what I know, that particular gadget is designed to stabilize the twisting of a blade when doing tight scrolling type curves with say, 1/8" or 3/16" narrow blades. It has a very specific design application.

Sounds like your project went ok, but personally, I would have been cutting the legs you describe with your larger bandsaw and I would be using a 1/2" or maybe 3/8" 3tpi blade. What type of blade were you using?

If you do a lot of tight scroll cutting, it might make sense to put the Stabilizer on your smaller bandsaw and leave it there. It truly depends on the type of work you do.

[Randy Heinemann]

I have not used it for straight cuts, but don't know why it wouldn't work OK for light straight cutting (not resawing). The key issue is that it is meant for 1/4" or smaller blades and is really designed for curved cuts. I also think that for gradual curves, you would see no improvement in the cut with the stabilizer. It's only with sharp curves that it excels. It does work well for cutting curves, but I find that it is a pain to mess around removing the guides and installing the stabilizer unless you are going to do a lot of curved cutting.

[Bernie Kopfer]

These are the answers I needed. Thanks

[Mike Chalmers]

I found it works well for scroll type cutting in thinner stock (3/4 - 1"). Anything else it wanders, is very inaccurate, almost impossible to control, and a waste of my money.

[Randy Heinemann]

I found it works well for scroll type cutting in thinner stock (3/4 - 1"). Anything else it wanders, is very inaccurate, almost impossible to control, and a waste of my money.

I guess I would have to disagree with the add-on's performance. It always worked well for me, but I don't use it much anymore because it's just kind of a pain to keep changing back and forth from guides to the stabilizer. So, I possibly wasted my money also, but not for the same reasons.

[Mike Chalmers]

I guess I would have to disagree with the add-on's performance. It always worked well for me, but I don't use it much anymore because it's just kind of a pain to keep changing back and forth from guides to the stabilizer. So, I possibly wasted my money also, but not for the same reasons.Truth be told, the biggest problem could be expecting too much. The Snodgrass video probably generated a unrealistic expectation. That being said, it proved to be a fail for me for my primary interest, bandsaw boxes.

[Randy Heinemann]

Truth be told, the biggest problem could be expecting too much. The Snodgrass video probably generated a unrealistic expectation. That being said, it proved to be a fail for me for my primary interest, bandsaw boxes.

I've seen him do bandsaw boxes and he doesn't seem to have a problem with those. Maybe the stabilizer wheel just need to be brought out a tiny bit more to put a little more forward thrust on the blade. I don't do bandsaw boxes so just a suggestion since the amount of forward pressure on the blade seems to be an important factor with the Stabilizer.

[Nick Decker]

Truth be told, the biggest problem could be expecting too much. The Snodgrass video probably generated a unrealistic expectation. That being said, it proved to be a fail for me for my primary interest, bandsaw boxes.

This is good information. Do you have a favorite blade for your boxes?

I was seriously considering the Carter stabilizer for my saw (Rikon 14" 10-326) until Carter told me they're not available for it. Probably won't be "until Rikon decides if they're going to stick with the new guide system," according to the Carter rep.

[Mike Chalmers]

I've seen him do bandsaw boxes and he doesn't seem to have a problem with those. Maybe the stabilizer wheel just need to be brought out a tiny bit more to put a little more forward thrust on the blade. I don't do bandsaw boxes so just a suggestion since the amount of forward pressure on the blade seems to be an important factor with the Stabilizer.True. It may be that I do not have the required skill set to overcome it's characteristics. I just made four boxes with the original Guides, 4" thick with a 3/16" 10TPI blade. I have another small bandsaw set up with a thicker blade for slicing backs and fronts of the boxes and drawers off. No issues. One must remember that few of us can approach the expertise demonstrated by Mr Snodgrass. Kinda reminds me of advertisements for Ginsu knives (dating myself there). Wonder how he is on a table saw?

[Randy Heinemann]

True. It may be that I do not have the required skill set to overcome it's characteristics. I just made four boxes with the original Guides, 4" thick with a 3/16" 10TPI blade. I have another small bandsaw set up with a thicker blade for slicing backs and fronts of the boxes and drawers off. No issues. One must remember that few of us can approach the expertise demonstrated by Mr Snodgrass. Kinda reminds me of advertisements for Ginsu knives (dating myself there). Wonder how he is on a table saw?

The intent was not to question skill level. If you already do bandsaw boxes your skill level making those boxes exceeds mine for sure. Since the Stabilizer's successful function depends on the appropriate tension of the blade against the Stabilizer wheel I was suggesting there might not be enough tension. When I initially experimented with it I ended up putting a bit more tension on the blade against the wheel than on my first try.