Dadoes - Table Saw or Router

[Randal Blair]

I'm not sure as to when to use my table saw or my router when cutting dadoes.
I built this small tool cabinet to store hand held power tools and free up drawers to hold other items.
While building the cabinet it occurred to me that I could use my stacked dadoe blades on my TS and use it to cut them
but it is so much easier for me to use the router w/plywood router bits I have and it is so easy to set up and use.
I went the router way but I seem to second guess myself often and wondered if there
Is there a preferred method here?
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[Al Launier]

I prefer using the TS whenever through dadoes are required. I think its faster to set up, plus it cuts faster & cleaner. I'll use the router on blind dadoes though.

In your application I would have definitely used the TS.

[Matt Day]

It's whatever you feel more comfortable with. I would have used the TS too, but that's me.

[Rod Sheridan]

I would use the table saw if it had a guard for non through cuts. (Mine does).

I wouldn't use the router as I don't own one.

rebates and grooves I normally cut on the shaper............Rod.

[Sam Murdoch]

When I'm cutting dadoes into pairs of plywood panels - a top and bottom, 2 sides of a cabinet - for shelving or dividers as you show, I prefer to use the router and a sled. Either I cut the dadoes into the full sheet then rip the 2 sides to the depth of cabinet dimension or make up my separate pairs all sized and ready to go - clamp them together accurately and cross dadoe both pieces at once.

Seems easier to control the depth of cut, the width of the dadoes, and to get perfect alignment left to right or top to bottom - especially on larger panels.

[Randal Blair]

When I'm cutting dadoes into pairs of plywood panels - a top and bottom, 2 sides of a cabinet - for shelving or dividers as you show, I prefer to use the router and a sled. Either I cut the dadoes into the full sheet then rip the 2 sides to the depth of cabinet dimension or make up my separate pairs all sized and ready to go - clamp them together accurately and cross dadoe both pieces at once.

Seems easier to control the depth of cut, the width of the dadoes, and to get perfect alignment left to right or top to bottom - especially on larger panels.

this is how I did mine. The undersize plywood bit set I have cuts extremely accurate for a tight fit.

[Robert Engel]

I would use the table saw if it had a guard for non through cuts. (Mine does).

Please explain why you need one

[Sam Murdoch]

this is how I did mine. The undersize plywood bit set I have cuts extremely accurate for a tight fit.

Another way around the tight fit plywood issue, as plywood is typically not a perfect dimensioned thickness, is to dadoes the slots to a router bit size less than the ply thickness intended for this slots - so for 3/4" I might use a 1/2" or 3/8" router bit BUT then one needs to shoulder the plywood ends to fit the slot. An extra step but this does insure a perfect fit plus provides a shouldered tenon which makes for a stronger glue joint and helps to minimize racking of the box, an especially good detail for shelves. I typically leave the "tenon" on the top edge with the shoulder under the shelf.

[Rod Sheridan]

Please explain why you need one
To prevent blade contact injuries............Regards, Rod.

[Don Jarvie]

I mainly use my router but the TS would be nice. Only thing stopping me is the older PM 66 saws have no way to lock the arbor to loosen the bolt on the arbor. My blade change holder is too big.

I need to make with the router so it's a bit long but doable.

[Rick Alexander]

I got one of these at the last wood show here in Atlanta.

https://www.truetracsaw.com/products/truetrac-dado-jig

I just got around to trying it out a couple weeks ago and man it just works great for me. I already had the tracks so maybe that makes it attractive to me and maybe not to everyone but I might just get rid of my old shop made jig after all these years. One tip, just mount the swivel plate permanently on a dedicated router because the center guide wants to slip out but otherwise works like a charm.

[glenn bradley]

I use the tablesaw for through dados in smaller parts. Commodity sheet goods are hard to force flat (considering most are like potato chips) onto the table and therefore you end up with a varied depth dado unless you compensate for this. I've seen humped throat inserts and other ways of handling this. A small router base that will follow the undulations of the sheet good seems simpler for me but, I am not doing fast-rate production stuff.

[Mike Henderson]

I use the tablesaw for through dados in smaller parts. Commodity sheet goods are hard to force flat (considering most are like potato chips) onto the table and therefore you end up with a varied depth dado unless you compensate for this. I've seen humped throat inserts and other ways of handling this. A small router base that will follow the undulations of the sheet good seems simpler for me but, I am not doing fast-rate production stuff.

I agree with Glenn and that's why I use a router to cut dados. The router follows the surface of the wood and therefore cuts a consistent depth. On the table saw, unless you have some method of pushing the panel down (hard and over the blade) you can get dados of varying depth which causes you problems when you go to put the cross member into the dado. You can have a shelf, for example, that shows a gap at the front because the dado further back is not as deep as the dado in the front.

Mike

[Mel Fulks]

I prefer table saw for most stuff. When using a a router a single flute bit will greatly speed up the work. I've tried to get MLCS to carry them,but they won't , it would go a long way in helping to popularize them.

[Pat Barry]

For large pieces my setup is better for a tablesaw (just takes some fussing to get the dado stack and spacers right) unless I decide to hold the router and use a straightedge. My router table is too small for most stuff like this

[Mike Henderson]

For large pieces my setup is better for a tablesaw (just takes some fussing to get the dado stack and spacers right) unless I decide to hold the router and use a straightedge. My router table is too small for most stuff like this

Let me clarify my earlier comment. When I said "router", I meant hand held router. A table router has the same issues as the table saw in needing to have the panel held down hard over the tool.

Mike

[Bill Dindner]

I use my router, or router table. Should use the table saw, but I just takes longer to set up.

[Rick Potter]

With me, it depends on what material you are cutting. I tried cutting 12" long dado's on melamine particle board for shelving units in a pantry, and after only two cuts, I could feel the router bit (Woodline shear bit) getting dull. That stuff is really abrasive.

Cutting the same shelves in real wood, I would not hesitate to use a router, but with dozens on cuts to make on that melamine particle board, I finished the job with my old Craftsman RAS, that I bought years ago just for shelving dado's. I used an old dado set to do it also, to save my good one.

Longer dado's get done on the TS for me normally.

[Erik Christensen]

I have a great 4 wing carbide dado set that cuts almost perfect dado's but have found that in most case the router is faster, has a better cut quality and is more accurate. What makes it easy is I have a rail guided micro adjusting router jig - I start with a undersized bit and sneak up on the perfect fit with a few final passes. Even with a few finish passes per cut it is less time than a number of test cuts with a dado set. In addition things like a tapered sliding dovetail are a piece of cake.

[Randy Heinemann]

I don't own a dado blade right now. The only time I will use my table saw is when cutting a 1/4" or less width dado making 2 passes with a full-kerf blade, like the dadoes in drawer sides for drawer bottoms. However, if I need to do a stopped dado that narrow I will do it on my router table. I get a much more crisp dado; completely flat bottom and I find I can get the depth more easily to the exact depth I need with a router (mostly on my router table).

[Paul K. Johnson]

I've never understood why people who have a router table and a table saw use the table saw for dados. Maybe it's something I'd have to do once or twice to understand. I always use my router table. It's way fast to set up and no screwing around with dado stacks. Again, I've never used one but I see tip after tip and product after product promising to make dado stack setup fast and accurate. I live by this rule that any time there are endless tips about the same thing then that thing has a fundamental problem that hasn't been solved.

They also make under-size router bits specifically for plywood. I have a Freud set and it's dead on. At most I might have to make one tiny adjustment of my fence and take a second pass if the plywood is a little thicker than usual but one pass works more often than not.

[Frederick Skelly]

I agree with Glenn and that's why I use a router to cut dados. The router follows the surface of the wood and therefore cuts a consistent depth. On the table saw, unless you have some method of pushing the panel down (hard and over the blade) you can get dados of varying depth which causes you problems when you go to put the cross member into the dado. You can have a shelf, for example, that shows a gap at the front because the dado further back is not as deep as the dado in the front.

Mike

I bought my first router plane to fix exactly the problem Mike is describing for TS-made dados. It isn't perfect but it helps a lot.

OP: You should use whichever tool you are more comfortable with. That's usually a little safer, as long as you don't get complacent. Personally, I use the TS (and router plane) if I have several dados to do. If I only have a few, I cut them by hand.

Aside: I once saw Paul Sellers use a backsaw and a chisel to cut a dado - it looked like he'd used a tailed router, they were so consistent and perfect.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I spent some time thinking about this, and, I have a strong preference for using my table saw. For me this is simply more reliable and easier to control. That said, if you have a method with which you are comfortable, I would just use that. You get good results with a router, use the router.

The last one I cut, I did do on the router table because I wanted a stopped cut.

[Mike Henderson]

I bought my first router plane to fix exactly the problem Mike is describing for TS-made dados. It isn't perfect but it helps a lot.

That's a good idea, Frederick. I have a router plane but always went to the hand held tailed router because of the problem.

Mike

[richard b miller]

we've got several cabinet makers in the area and i asked one owner that very question.
his response was that he uses a wobble dado blade on his TS. he said it worked great for
what they do.

[Frederick Skelly]

That's a good idea, Frederick. I have a router plane but always went to the hand held tailed router because of the problem.

Mike

Glad you found it helpful Mike. I've learned several useful things from you, so I'm glad to "give back" a little. :)
Fred

[Von Bickley]

When I'm cutting dadoes into pairs of plywood panels - a top and bottom, 2 sides of a cabinet - for shelving or dividers as you show, I prefer to use the router and a sled. Either I cut the dadoes into the full sheet then rip the 2 sides to the depth of cabinet dimension or make up my separate pairs all sized and ready to go - clamp them together accurately and cross dadoe both pieces at once.

Seems easier to control the depth of cut, the width of the dadoes, and to get perfect alignment left to right or top to bottom - especially on larger panels.

That's the way I do it and I know the shelves will line up properly. I have a separate small table saw with dado blades on it for making rabbets.

[jack duren]

I'm not sure as to when to use my table saw or my router when cutting dadoes.
I built this small tool cabinet to store hand held power tools and free up drawers to hold other items.
While building the cabinet it occurred to me that I could use my stacked dadoe blades on my TS and use it to cut them
but it is so much easier for me to use the router w/plywood router bits I have and it is so easy to set up and use.
I went the router way but I seem to second guess myself often and wondered if there
Is there a preferred method here?
364712364713364714364715

I use the router in the table saw with the saw fence. Works perfect. I rarely put the dado blades in unless there's no other way...

I use a lot of MDF core for finished ends for flatness....

[jack duren]

we've got several cabinet makers in the area and i asked one owner that very question.
his response was that he uses a wobble dado blade on his TS. he said it worked great for
what they do.
Grew up and work in cabinet shops in Northwest Al and never used a wobble blade to make a dado....

Always thought Northeast people were weird;) ....

[Phillip Gregory]

I would use my radial arm saw and a good stack dado to cut those through dados. You get the advantage of being able to see the work as you would with a router and don't have to try to wrestle a large board on top of a cabinet saw. You also have the ability to fine tune dado width that would be more difficult to do with a router. The only downside is that you need a pretty expensive dado stack to fit the 1" arbor on a long arm saw that has enough crosscut length to be useful. I have a 12" Freud Super Dado on a medium arm DeWalt GE that can make a dado about 27" long.

[Jim Becker]

In my shop, the router takes that task as I don't run a dado blade on my slider. I "can" do that, at least for narrower grooves, but have chosen to not do that.

[scott spencer]

Both have their place. With a nice heavy saw like yours, I prefer the mass and power of the TS most of the time.

[rudy de haas]

I have recently had to put a 1/4" dado down the 84" long sides of four pieces of 1/2" plywood (baltic birch, actually 12mm). Even if I had a dado blade the table saw would not have been feasible because I can't control the sheet well enough - and using a router would have required even more work than making something to hold the sheet on a table saw. However.. it turns out to be easy to do with a shaper and power feeder. Set-up took a long time, but all of eight turned out about right on the first and only pass.

[jack forsberg]

I use dado stacks on the RAS the TS and the spindle moulder . some are HSS but i do have TC too in 16" ,12", 10" and 9" some are split grovers from the 50s and cut so clean that there is no need for hand tools .


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFElBgJ_2H4

[Rich Engelhardt]

Table saw - router - track saw - - - I've used (& will probably use again) all three.
It all boils down to what's the easiest one to use for the job at hand.


I have recently had to put a 1/4" dado down the 84" long sides of four pieces of 1/2" plywood (baltic birch, actually 12mm)
Been there/done that - piece of cake w/the track saw. Nothing to it & the fit is so perfect I'm tempted to do it that way all the time........but.....I'm usually too lazy & just use the table saw & dado blade.