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View Full Version : DC design help? (long)



Dan Forman
10-27-2005, 12:49 PM
My Dust Gorilla has been sitting around and collecting dust on the outside for long enough, so I need to get it up and running. Below was my initial plan, with the DC against the north wall. 25188 The red line is main pipe, would run along the ceiling then drop to the floor at the post, with wyes branching off of the downdrop. The blue are hoses coming off the main, 2 for the table saw and one for a router table which is yet to come. The Mini Max jointer planer outputs on the same side, there is only one hose for that.

Today I got to thinking that it would be simpler to move the DC out to the center post where the main would have dropped, which would eliminate a couple of turns and having to work around the ceiling beam (the narrow orange line).

This would would require the JP to move over a bit and assume a slightly different angle, but would still work, though doesn't feel quite as open as it used to. I'm not worried about being closer to the noise it would generate, as I wear ear protection whenever a machine is on. Hopefully you will find a picture attached at this point. You will note that I took certain liberties in how the machine was configured, as this was a mockup just to see what it would feel like to have a gorilla in the midst of things. 25187

In this location, there would be just one drop to the floor directly from the inlet. The longest hose would be under 6 feet, so static pressure should be negligable. The J/P port is about 4 4/4" (120mm), and there is no way to make it larger. An adaptor is available to work with 5" hose.

The bandsaw has a 4" port (outside dimension), Sam suggested using 4" directly over the port, then expanding to 5" to the drop. Can't see any way of making that bigger either.

The table saw has an octagonal hole in the base, over which a plastic hood fits necking down to about 3 3/4" outside dimension (what were they thinking?). This can be seen in the picture, sitting on the left side of the table saw, looking like a speaker facing up. I found a metal hood to replace that with which opens up to 5", and I'm sure a 6" is available too. I'm not much on geometry, but I think that the area of the hole in the saw is greater than that of the 5" opening, so there may be a real benefit in going to 6" hose.

This setup would make it more complicated to get a second hose for an overhead blade guard, which I had hoped to add eventually, otherwise it seems to simplify things. I would also need to build a stand, as there is no wall to mount the DC on. Oneida has a new metal stand, but they want $160 for the upgrade, and I already had supports welded to the original mounting brackets, having heard that they tended to induce a bit of lean into the system.

Sooo, before I finalize things, can anyone see any reason for not going this route over the original plan? Any suggestions?

Dan

Roy Wall
10-27-2005, 1:17 PM
Dan,

I"m not certain of this, but I believe it's important for the first 5' of run from the cyclone be straight out for optimum performance (7" pipe). My first 7 feet is straight 7" pipe before reducing to 6" for another run of 12' to my drop area. I basically have a 2- 6" drops: one for a future J/P like yours........the other drop leads to different lines for TS & BS.

I've got some work to do this afternoon, hopefully I can post my little setup in my garage to give you an idea of my design. It drops right down the support pole just like in your basement...


I have the 2HP gorilla - got it in August.

Nice machines.....

David Duke
10-27-2005, 2:03 PM
Although wall space is always a premium, floor space is even more valuable to me, I don't think that I would like to have the DC unit in the middle of my shop and as Roy stated I think that the experts recommend having a straight run of duct before any wyes or openings.

Larry Browning
10-27-2005, 2:03 PM
Hey Dan,
I was looking at the picture of your Gorilla, and I could be wrong here, but I am pretty sure that you have your gorilla mounted upside down and you should probably attach the filter to the fan housing instead of the cone assembly. But then again, I could be wrong.:D

Larry

Joe Horne
10-27-2005, 2:14 PM
Hey Dan,
I was looking at the picture of your Gorilla, and I could be wrong here, but I am pretty sure that you have your gorilla mounted upside down and you should probably attach the filter to the fan housing instead of the cone assembly. But then again, I could be wrong.:D

Larry

Larry..............that's just WRONG! :eek: That funny made my day! ;)

Dan Oliphant
10-27-2005, 2:36 PM
Dan,
I don't believe you would be happy with your proposed setup for very long. If I may suggest, locate the D/C over by your drill press if possible. The photo seems to show the possible option of moving your table saw towards the drill press a little, then relocating your jointer/planer over to the opposite side of the table saw. With what you plan on hooking up to your D/C, the capacity will not be adversly effected. Try to keep the ducting at 7 inches untill you are ready for the flex, then reduce down to the needed size.
Even with hearing protection, 75/80 db is a bother.

Dan Forman
10-27-2005, 4:00 PM
Roy---Thanks for the advice about an initial straight run, you are right about that. After talking with Linda at Oneida again, it seems that the middle of the shop location wouldn't work. What size port do you have in your tablesaw, and do you have any overhead collection?

David and Dan---After going back down there today, I have to agree with you about the disruption of flow with the beast in the middle of the shop. I perhaps had a bit of RNF in the brain department last night (random neural firing). Guess it's back to plan A.

Dan---The drawing was made a few months ago, I now have a
Festool MFT located against the east wall where you suggest putting the DC. Whereas that would otherwise be perhaps the best placement for the DC, allowing a nice straight run to the drop, I can't find another good place for the MFT. If the tablesaw were moved toward the drillpress, it would limit the crosscutting ability due to the position of the post to the left of the bandsaw. Were it not for those pesky posts and pipes, I would have a lot more choices for tool arrangement. As it is, this is the only way I've found which allows plenty of room for working with longer boards on each of the machines.

Larry---So you think I should try again with the assembly? ;)

Dan