tried johnson's paste wax. keeps leaving tacky surface. what am I doing wrong?

[dustin wassner]

The first time I cleaned the whole table saw top with alcohol, dried, and applied wax and let sit for 30 minutes. Wiped off and it was extremely tacky. Tried it over again but wiped it off only after a few minutes and got basically the same result. What is the trick I'm missing? I put my mdf sled on the table and it hardly moves after I'm done...

[Bruce Page]

I have never left it on for more than a few minutes. I buff it out as soon as the wax starts to glaze over.

[dustin wassner]

what are you doing to "buff it out"?

[Marc Jeske]

Hmmmm..... I just always put it on a clean cast top that |I had just wiped down w like Acetone.

Alcohol should work as well.

Put on, rub in the wax in circles, let dry, maybe longer than you are.

Excess buffs right off pretty easily w old t shirts.

Not sure what your issue is. Marc

[Andrew Hughes]

Have you not seen the Karate kid? Wax on wax off.:)

[Robert Hayward]

I use nothing but JPW on my cast iron tops. I have tried numerous other products but have found nothing that works as well as JPW. Have never noticed a tacky surface. Is your can of JPW maybe not any good ?

[richard poitras]

Is your can of JPW maybe not any good ?

JPW lasts forever....

[Ben Rivel]

Cant say Ive had that problem with Johnson's, but maybe try Renaissance. I switched to that and havent gone back.

[Marc Jeske]

I think my can is 40 yrs old, stored in hottt climate for much of that.

Works just fine. Marc

[dustin wassner]

I only ask about what you mean by buffing it out because I was not sure if you use an electric buffer or just rub it by hand. I am putting a fairly thick layer of it on the whole surface and it is almost like it dries on and gets grippy after 20-30 minutes, at least to my mdf sled which I use almost constantly.

karate kid was just a little before my time...

[Matthew Hills]

Johnsons can feel a bit sticky if applied thick and not buffed out.

I'd recommend taking a small section that feels tacky and trying to wipe really hard with a clean rag, until you don't feel an obvious residue. The result should be a very thin layer of wax that your wood will glide on

Matt

[David Eisenhauer]

I have used JPW for many years and I believe that your problem may be too thick an initial coat and then letting it dry for too long. I wipe a thin coat of JPW on with a small piece of rag that lives inside the can, let it dry 5 minutes or so (not exact, just average guesstimate time) and use a dry cotton rag (t shirt) to buff it out. I do flip the rag around to clean/dry sides from time to time as I buff. When the rag stops grabbing and starts sliding effortlessly, the top is buffed. If I let it dry too long, it is more difficult to buff out. It leaves a very "slippery" surface that wood just glides on without hardly any effort and I tend to reapply when I notice wood not pushing as easily past the blade when using the saw.

[Bruce Page]

I only ask about what you mean by buffing it out because I was not sure if you use an electric buffer or just rub it by hand. I am putting a fairly thick layer of it on the whole surface and it is almost like it dries on and gets grippy after 20-30 minutes, at least to my mdf sled which I use almost constantly.

karate kid was just a little before my time...

Dustin, I usually use old soft cotton rags, by hand. I used the blue paper shop towels from Costco the last time and they also worked well. Depending on ambient temperature it should only take a few minutes for the wax to glaze up. The buffed out JPW is microns thick, there isn't any benefit to applying a thick coat or waiting 20-30 minutes before buffing. You're just making more work for yourself.

[Steve Jenkins]

I apply a thin coat and immediately buff it off with a rag. No waiting no problem

[Warren Lake]

used carnuba from car stuff. Its old, forgot the brand, can rusted out now in a plastic container and has mold on it. Machines are sometimes too damp it still work just a bit more work to it. Havnet had finishing issues from it though thinking about it doesnt seem right. Never heard of JPW will look it up.

[Bruce Page]

used carnuba from car stuff. Its old, forgot the brand, can rusted out now in a plastic container and has mold on it. Machines are sometimes too damp it still work just a bit more work to it. Havnet had finishing issues from it though thinking about it doesnt seem right. Never heard of JPW will look it up.

JPW = Johnson's paste wax.
You have to be careful with car waxes, most contain silicone which can create havoc with wood finishing.

[Leo Graywacz]

Sounds like you are putting it on to thick. Just take a cloth, rub it on the surface of the wax in the can to gather some wax. Apply to the cast iron table in a very thin film in a circular motion. Should be dry enough in about 1 minute and you should be able to buff it out very easily.

[Marc Jeske]

"Too thick" and over drying ( I've sometimes left my application on overnight) is NO problem, just takes a bit more pressure, elbow grease.

I like old T shirt, any shop towel that's clean is fine, not in a big soft ball, but just 2 layers thick, and w PRESSURE till bulk of residue comes off, then lighten pressure to finish.

I think you may not be removing the residue due to not pressing hard enough.

It will be obvious when the excess is removed, will turn slick when rubbed w fresh clean side of cloth.

Old Johnson is TOTALLY fine... ONLY benefit of some fancier $$ stuff or like Boeshield is maybe longevity.

In my experience anyway.

Very simple. Marc

[john lawson]

Okay, think about this. You have just applied Johnson's paste wax to your hardwood floors and step out on them. Oops, your feet go one way and your a-- goes another! That's what would happen except------------------Johnson's puts an anti-slip agent in the wax to prevent this from happening. So, even though you keep waxing it never gets super, super slick.

Now, think about the bowling alley. You throw the ball and what does it do? It spins for several feet, then gains traction and hooks. Watch any bowling ball (thrown with a hook) and you will realize this is true. So what you want to buy is Bowling Alley Wax. I buy it several cans at a time and use it everywhere I want a slick surface.

Never use it on your floor.

[Al Launier]

Frankly I think buffing out wax on my tools is a PITA. I picked up a compact buffer/polisher at an estate sale a few years ago (a mongrel brand still working) and that has turned things around. I even wax my tools more often because of the buffer. There are several available at HD, Lowes & auto parts stores. As with a car run it slow

[Nike Nihiser]

I always thought it was the oil they put on a bowling alley that makes it slick. The ball gains traction where they don't put the oil.

[Patrick Kane]

I skip the buffing step and let the wood do my buffing. If im settling in for a long jointing session, ill take a block of wax in my hand and rub the tables and fence down, then immediately turn the machine on and work. Same for the planer and table saw. I used to buff, but i dont think i noticed an appreciable performance difference for the additional time invested.

If you are doing this to protect from moisture, then i can see buffing the entire surface.

[Charles Lent]

used carnuba from car stuff. Its old, forgot the brand, can rusted out now in a plastic container and has mold on it. Machines are sometimes too damp it still work just a bit more work to it. Havnet had finishing issues from it though thinking about it doesnt seem right. Never heard of JPW will look it up.

Most car waxes contain silicone. When silicone gets on your wood projects it will cause fish eyes in your finish. Spots where stain and poly won't stay on in your finishing steps. Once silicone gets on things, it's a nightmare for a woodworker. I have banned it, or anything containing it from my wood shop. I looks great on cars, but it's a finishing nightmare when it gets on your wood. It's also invisible and doesn't clean off easily.

[Bill Serino]

More pressure and more buffing.

Just keep buffing till it's smooth. Just like car wax.

i just started using it and love it.

[Nick Decker]

I'm told that Johnson's contains no silicone, so that's what I use. Does Rennaisance Wax have silicones?

[Warren Lake]

non of the car waxes or polishes i use have silicons or fillers in them. I dont buff the tops but do buff cars will try a bufer but dont see a reason hand application and removal is fine.

[lowell holmes]

A can of Johnson's floor wax has lasted me for about 15 years. My saw table has no rust during that time. I live in Galveston County Texas.

I use Renaissance wax on finishes.

[Leo Graywacz]

Some of you guys must be doing something wrong. Waxing the top of a machine takes about 2 minutes total. Putting it on, waiting for it to dry and buffing it out.

I've been using Trewax

[Dave Kuntz]

I've had the same problem as the op. I use Minwax brand paste wax. My can is a few years old and getting a bit dry. I used it on my new table saw and it was worse after I put it on. I added some mineral spirits to the can, let it sit overnight. Then it was about the consistency of soft butter. This made it much easier to wipe on a very thin coat. I buffed it out immediately after applying. If it's thin enough, it takes very little effort to buff off the excess. I'm not an expert here, but this may mean I will have to reapply more often. Hope this helps!

[Pat Barry]

My experience with Johnson's and other waxes is that if you don't buff them out enough they are sticky and or hazy. On your car you buff until it shines. You need to do this with your tabletop too. Note that it doesn't take much wax to do the table top. Who said "wax on, wax off".

[Andrew Hughes]

My experience with Johnson's and other waxes is that if you don't buff them out enough they are sticky and or hazy. On your car you buff until it shines. You need to do this with your tabletop too. Note that it doesn't take much wax to do the table top. Who said "wax on, wax off".

Mr Miyagi, says

[glenn bradley]

I use JPW. I wipe it on with a paper towel or whatever applicator is left in the can I have marked "tools". In a few moments it starts to glaze over. I wipe it off with paper towels using a rapid back and forth or circular motion. Once the paper towels come away clean I give it a final wipe back and forth over the whole surface. Toss a shop towel at the surface and it will shoot right across. I also use JPW for sled bottoms and other shellac'd jig surfaces I want slippery. The new green tinted stuff we get in California is not as good. My next purchase for this purpose will follow a bit of research.

[Brian Henderson]

I use JPW. I wipe it on with a paper towel or whatever applicator is left in the can I have marked "tools". In a few moments it starts to glaze over. I wipe it off with paper towels using a rapid back and forth or circular motion. Once the paper towels come away clean I give it a final wipe back and forth over the whole surface. Toss a shop towel at the surface and it will shoot right across. I also use JPW for sled bottoms and other shellac'd jig surfaces I want slippery. The new green tinted stuff we get in California is not as good. My next purchase for this purpose will follow a bit of research.

Yeah, California screws everything up.

[Lee Schierer]

Sounds like you are putting it on to thick. Just take a cloth, rub it on the surface of the wax in the can to gather some wax. Apply to the cast iron table in a very thin film in a circular motion. Should be dry enough in about 1 minute and you should be able to buff it out very easily.

I apply Johnson Paste wax to my cast iron table tops with #0000 steel wool. This removes any light surface rust and spreads the JPW evenly. After the top is coated, I immediately close up the can and wipe off the top with an old tee shirt.

[Dave Zellers]

After the top is coated, I immediately close up the can and wife off the top with an old tee shirt.

Given that the 'f' and the 'p' are nowhere near each other on the keyboard, Id love to know what was in your head at the time ...

:D

Back on topic- thin coats. not complicated.

[Bruce Page]

Given that the 'f' and the 'p' are nowhere near each other on the keyboard, Id love to know what was in your head at the time ...

:D

Back on topic- thin coats. not complicated.
Now that's funny!

[Ray Newman]

Johnson's Paste Wax is like "Brylcream -- a little dab will do ya!"

[Marc Jeske]

"Too thick" and over drying ( I've sometimes left my application on overnight) is NO problem, just takes a bit more pressure, elbow grease.

I like old T shirt, any shop towel that's clean is fine, not in a big soft ball, but just 2 layers thick, and w PRESSURE till bulk of residue comes off, then lighten pressure to finish.

I think you may not be removing the residue due to not pressing hard enough.

It will be obvious when the excess is removed, will turn slick when rubbed w fresh clean side of cloth.

Old Johnson is TOTALLY fine... ONLY benefit of some fancier $$ stuff or like Boeshield is maybe longevity.

In my experience anyway.

Very simple. Marc



Ya, end result this above.

No fancy $$$ stuff needed.

The steel wood pad applicator great idea, store the used pad in the can.

Rub it on as hard as you wish to smooth the micro rust.

That pad is then impregnated w the wax by then, totally silly to throw away.

Of course, that tin of wax, once steel wool has been dipped into it, is then dedicated for tabletop or similar use forever.

NO longer suitable for final finish on your next Jewelry Box w micro bits of steel to cause possible rust spots on workpiece.


If I may say, end of story. Marc

[Marc Jeske]

One slight Edit - I myself have always left a small rag applicator in my can.

Not Steel wool... I'm thinking it may rust in can and leave a total mess, I don't know.

But as an applicator for cast tables, great idea. Marc

[Lee Schierer]

One slight Edit - I myself have always left a small rag applicator in my can.

Not Steel wool... I'm thinking it may rust in can and leave a total mess, I don't know.

But as an applicator for cast tables, great idea. Marc

I've used steel wool for 40 years and never had a pad rust. They do wear out after a while.

[Joe Wood]

I have a tiny amount of rust (not much in the San Diego area) on the planer table, and I've been coating it with Boshield. I'd like to switch to wax,

what's a good cleaner to use before waxing??

[glenn bradley]

Some of you guys must be doing something wrong. Waxing the top of a machine takes about 2 minutes total. Putting it on, waiting for it to dry and buffing it out.

I've been using Trewax

We do seem to be able to over-involve nearly anything if we try :D.

I wax quickly and frequently. There is a small amount of elbow grease involved but, the pain is over in a very short period of time :).

[jack duren]

I skip the buffing step and let the wood do my buffing. If im settling in for a long jointing session, ill take a block of wax in my hand and rub the tables and fence down, then immediately turn the machine on and work. Same for the planer and table saw. I used to buff, but i dont think i noticed an appreciable performance difference for the additional time invested.

If you are doing this to protect from moisture, then i can see buffing the entire surface.

Not in my shop.....

[lowell holmes]

I have a tiny amount of rust (not much in the San Diego area) on the planer table, and I've been coating it with Boshield. I'd like to switch to wax,

what's a good cleaner to use before waxing??

Fine wet or dry sandpaper dry.

[Chris Fournier]

Too much wax. Multiple thin coats, not a big ol' gloopy one.

[jack duren]

I like Johnson's and recommend it, but some of the animals at work tend to put it on heavy and neglect to wash their hands afterwards is leaving finger prints in the wood when finishing.

We finally made the change..
364815

[Leo Graywacz]

If we're showing pictures of our wax products then....
http://www.beaumontproducts.com/images/887101016_lrg.jpg

One can will last quite some time, on the order of years for a one man show.

[Tom Paulley]

My trusty can of Johnson's paste wax is finally nearing its end, so I bought another can at Lowe's recently. Brought it home, opened it up, and thought "what the heck is this grey mess??" The cans are slightly different, but both say the are the original formula. I don't remember exactly how old my original can is, but a reasonable guess would be 20 years old. Anyone else's can of Johnson's look like this? The original smells nice (to me at least), the new one doesn't have much smell at all and has a much more liquid consistency. Not too excited to use this on all my cast iron tops and tools.

410517

[Leo Graywacz]

20 years is a long time and your original can likely dried out some. I have a can of Trewax that I've had for 6 years and it has definitely dried out. I've added Naphtha several times to reconstitute it.

Not sure about the gray issue though.

[Frederick Skelly]

Johnsons can feel a bit sticky if applied thick and not buffed out.

I'd recommend taking a small section that feels tacky and trying to wipe really hard with a clean rag, until you don't feel an obvious residue. The result should be a very thin layer of wax that your wood will glide on

Matt

+1. It gets tacky on me too. Matt's advice is good.

[al heitz]

JPW (Johnson's Paste Wax) - an old time favorite. I remember using it on chrome chair legs, furniture, nearly everything/anything that needed waxing when I was a kid in the '50's. One of my chores. Don't think it has changed much in all those years.

[Alan Lightstone]

Okay, think about this. You have just applied Johnson's paste wax to your hardwood floors and step out on them. Oops, your feet go one way and your a-- goes another! That's what would happen except------------------Johnson's puts an anti-slip agent in the wax to prevent this from happening. So, even though you keep waxing it never gets super, super slick.

Now, think about the bowling alley. You throw the ball and what does it do? It spins for several feet, then gains traction and hooks. Watch any bowling ball (thrown with a hook) and you will realize this is true. So what you want to buy is Bowling Alley Wax. I buy it several cans at a time and use it everywhere I want a slick surface.

Never use it on your floor.

Bowling alleys have oil sprayed on them from finishing machines in a specific pattern. The reason why the ball initially slides, then starts gripping and hooking has to do with the gradient oil pattern (thicker in the middle, and thinner towards the gutters, so that the ball self-corrects towards the pocket.

Here's a typical lane oiling machine (by AMF):

https://www.qubicaamf.com/images-1/banner-grandi-di-categorie/bowling-qubicaamf-lane-machines-upgrade-banner.jpg/@@images/5c3ba288-e325-4969-8869-f01a60a7b8a8.jpeg

I've never heard of an actual bowling lane being waxed, though there are a few companies that sell "Bowling Alley Wax". It's a misnomer. In a past life, I bowled professionally and was briefly on the PBA tour. FWIW, ancient history.

That being said, I think you're waiting too long, and not fully buffing out the JPW. I prefer CRC 3-36 to JPW, but the wax works too. Fine Woodworking magazine periodically tests all these for rust prevention and the CRC 3-36 has won on a couple of occasions.

[Doug Dawson]

20 years is a long time and your original can likely dried out some. I have a can of Trewax that I've had for 6 years and it has definitely dried out. I've added Naphtha several times to reconstitute it.

Not sure about the gray issue though.

My wife (the finishing expert) called up the J&J customer hotline a few years ago to ask about what is the expected useful lifetime of a can of JPW that had been previously opened. They looked it up and said, two to three years. They also sent us a sheet of coupons for every product that J&J ever sold. Good times.

[Doug Dawson]

JPW lasts forever....

JPW has special fixin's in it (secret solvents) that leech out over time, that would affect how it applies.

My MIL, dearly departed, thought toothpaste lasted forever. We found many unopened tubes, still in the original packaging, averaging thirty or forty years old. When opened, the contents were colors that are not otherwise known to man, and smells that you would ascribe to the atmospheres on distant planets.

So a grey color is nothing!

[Charles Lent]

"My MIL, dearly departed, thought toothpaste lasted forever. We found many unopened tubes, still in the original packaging, averaging thirty or forty years old. When opened, the contents were colors that are not otherwise known to man, and smells that you would ascribe to the atmospheres on distant planets

So a grey color is nothing!"

My good laugh for the day....Thanks, Doug.

Charley

[glenn bradley]

what are you doing to "buff it out"?

I just use a folded paper towel changing to a clean area frequently. I also start to wipe the surface as soon as the wax starts to haze.

[Rege Sullivan]

This goes against the conventional wisdom but I keep a can of JPW with a green 3M pad in it for cleaning up metal. Mostly castiron tops but tools and hardware to. It cuts grease, removes surface rust and removes some adhesives. I put it on thick and scrub with the 3M pad then wipe it off with a paper towel then buff it. I keep a seperat can clean for other uses where a little grease or rust would get into the surface.

For a slicker surface on just about anything rub warm bees wax on a cotton rag, wipe it on a clean surface then buff with a clean soft cloth... slicker'n snot!

[Bill Dufour]

I used to have a can of wax, made in Britain, that was very easy to use. It had a turn tub riveted on the side to open it. Like a can of Kiwi shoe polish. The rivet broke off and air leaked in so it dried out. It was a light blue can with white lettering. I left the rag in the can so it was quick and easy to wipe down a table top or fence when needed.
Bill D.

[Randall J Cox]

Sounds like you're putting on too much. Just a slight amount rubbed in and buffed off with a dry cotton anything and thats it. No mystery. I've been using for over 40 years, same can, no issues... Good luck. Randy