Infusing/Impregnating Veneer for Ultra Thin Sheets

[Roger Lueck]

Has any one had any success saturating sheets of 3/64" veneer with epoxy and pressing flat until cured?

Thank You,
Roger

[Andrew Hughes]

Is there a reason you need to use epoxy.Have you heard of old brown glue it's very friendly stuff compared to nasty epoxy.

[Mike Henderson]

What are you trying to do? Flatten the veneer? Or...?

Mike

[Bill Dufour]

I thought the veneer was loose and floppy.. You glue it onto a flat base and flatten it while doing so.
Bill

[Roger Lueck]

Thank you for the responses.

The intent is to change the veneer from a "visual enhancement" to the project into a structural piece by saturating the veneer with epoxy and pressing it flat. Aliphatic resin glues, even when fully cured, still remain minutely flexible (creep) and are not desirable.

Plastic resin glue has some of the characteristics when cured for which I am searching, however, it does not saturate wood fibers as thoroughly as a low viscosity epoxy. Plastic resin glue also "sets up" faster then is desired.

Thank You,
Roger

[Bill Dufour]

I think you may want to do this in a vacuum chamber then add as much pressure as you can to force the glue into the pores. I am thinking 10 atmospheres or so. Of course take all needed safety precautions including hydro testing.
bill

[Bohdan Drozdowskyj]

A vacuum chamber can only supply a pressure of one atmosphere. I think that you meant a pressure chamber.

[Jim Morgan]

These days, veneer typically runs between 1/40" and 1/32". "Thick" veneer is 1/28" (~0.036"). 3/64" (~0.047") is much thicker than anything commercially available.

[Roger Lueck]

Once again thank you for the responses.

To achieve 3/64" or somewhere close to that thickness I will laminate two or more layers of veneer, then sand/finish to a consistent thickness after the epoxy has cured.

[Jim Morgan]

Once again thank you for the responses.

To achieve 3/64" or somewhere close to that thickness I will laminate two or more layers of veneer, then sand/finish to a consistent thickness after the epoxy has cured.

If you are not wedded to 3/64" thickness, you could laminate three layers of veneer, with the middle layer running cross-grain to the others, making your own plywood. This would be more stable and rigid than laminating layers with the grain running the same direction (cf. standard plywood vs. bending plywood).

[Wayne Lomman]

Given that you are prepared to use multiple layers, any low viscosity epoxy resin will saturate thin veneers. Epoxy fibreglassing resins are a good place to start. Make sure you know what you are getting as most fibreglass resins are polyester and only a few are epoxy. Polyester would probably work but it depends on your exact requirements. Fibreglass resins are designed to wet out which is why I suggest this starting point. Epiglass is a good brand by Akzo Nobel if that is available in your market. Cheers

[Wayne Lomman]

Forgot the pressing. Cut 2 x melamine coated mdf boards the same size as the job and clamp these either side to keep the job flat. Put a layer of paper between the job and the backing boards. Butchers paper is good for this. Use heaps of clamps and 4 x 2 strongbacks if necessary. Clamp from the centre out so that excess resin is pushed out. Plenty of striations on this of course but this is any easy low technology low investment way to do it. Cheers

[Roger Lueck]

Thanks again for the responses.

Roger