Care and Maintenance of your Cast Iron tables?

[Bill Serino]

Question fellas.

It's wet season here in southern AZ. I have a handful of tools with larger cast iron tables. What do you guys that live in wet areas do to keep your tables/tools rust free?

I spent 10 minutes wiping the tables down with some oil. Made me feel better.

[Vinito Caleb]

I move mine to Arizona every summer.
Egad man!! Where's a better place than AZ for dry air??

Oil is better then nuthin. Probably some gooderer coatings for the purpose, but none are all that effective in my experience.
You need to keep the temperature of the cast iron above the dewpoint temperature. Either lower the dewpoint (air conditioning or dehumidifier to lower humidity) or heat the cast iron. I've put an incandescent light bulb in the base of machines to do that before. Surely more efficient heaters than light bulbs out there, but bulbs worked. Don't need much (like 20 to 40W) but of course incandescent bulbs are getting more sparse over the years. The heat wicks through the metal and keeps condensation off it. Not a great solution (HVAC is the best of course) but better than having to clean rust off the tables.

[Wayne Lomman]

Apply a thin coat of inorganic zinc primer. Better quality rattle cans of zinc primer are suitable. Its a thin enough coat to have no effect on the geometry of the table. Make sure your cast iron is completely clean of rust and contamination before applying. This works and when it eventually wears off, its easy to touch up. Cheers

[Charles Taylor]

Johnson's paste floor wax.

[Randal Blair]

Johnson's paste floor wax.

I've used this method for years - however I first wipe the surface down with a fine machine oil then a coat of wax.
I've done this for my table saw, bandsaw, jointer and my oscillating sander.

[John K Jordan]

Question fellas.
It's wet season here in southern AZ. I have a handful of tools with larger cast iron tables. What do you guys that live in wet areas do to keep your tables/tools rust free?
I spent 10 minutes wiping the tables down with some oil. Made me feel better.

I installed heat and air in my shop and the air conditioning keeps the humidity low in the summer. I do spray and wipe some metal protector on the bandsaw table but that is mostly to protect it when processing green wood. I apply Renaissance Wax to the lathe ways but that is to reduce friction.

I have a Robland sliding table attachment for my PM66 and their instructions are use a blackboard eraser to periodically rub pure talc powder onto the cast iron. They say this fills tiny pores and prevents rust. That method may apply only to some types of cast iron which is more porous than others.

I've wondered if applying the wrong type of oil might cause finishing problems if some got transferred to a wood surface.

JKJ

[David Eisenhauer]

Johnsons. Reapply when it looks like it needs it or if I see a small rust spot rearing its head. Scuff the problem spot with a synthetic steel wool pad, buff on some Johnsons. I have found over the years that new machinery takes the treatment more often, less treatment required as the years pass. Iron "pores" getting filled with wax? Who knows, but as my machinery ages, less anti-rust top maintenance required.

[Cary Falk]

T9 followed by paste wax

[Mike Manning]

SC Johnson's Paste Wax should be all you need in Southern AZ even during the monsoon season.

[Martin Wasner]

That 4% humidity and single digit dew points are a killer on cast....


The biggest thing is to not touch it with your dirty greasy hands. Don't sweat on it either. I've got one guy working for me that is going to get punched in the head the next time I see him leaning with his hands on a piece of equipment. YOU DON'T TOUCH BARE METAL!!!

I use paraffin wax for protection and for making things slipperier. Rub it on, and buff it out with #0000 steel wool. I used to use a Bostik product called Glidecote, but the vendor I got it through isn't carrying it anymore for whatever reason. The stuff they replaced it with is more slippery, but doesn't last as long.

[Eric Anderson]

I live in Austin, TX where we get hot and relatively humid summers (not New Orleans humid, but pretty bad). Rust is a constant fight. I have used T-9 and paste wax, works for a while, but lately switched to CRC 3-36, which is better than the T-9. Even with that, I normally re-coat every few weeks, and keep my Sawstop covered with an old Gor-tex mattress cover when not in use, which works quite well as it breaths but won't let moisture get on the table top. Mostly, it is a constant battle that you can't let up on. And of course, working in the shop during the summer (no AC yet) leaves little puddles of sweat that have to be cleaned up immediately or they will show rust before the cut is through.

[Bruce Page]

I’m in New Mexico, it’s pretty dry here too. I apply a coat of Johnson's paste wax once a year. I wipe parts of my metal working machinery with light oil. I wouldn’t want oil on my WW machines.

Our wet season should be starting any day – I hope!

[Frank Drew]

Virginia is extremely humid in the summer but the only time I had rust issues was when I was out of my shop for an extended period. The equipment covered with plastic sheeting was fine but, in fact, no cast iron surfaces, covered or not, rusted, only the steel, like the drill press column and the like. I've never treated the cast with oil or wax or anything but some say that keeping a ceiling fan running can prevent rust from forming (I wish I'd tried that; the pennies a day even for many days would have been worth it.) None of the hand tools in drawers had any issues but I did get some rust spots on the steel shanks of chisels where they touched the wood of the chisel rack hanging on the wall behind my bench. And speaking of which, neither of the bench vise screws rusted.

[lawrence munninghoff]

Johnsons paste wax. Been using for years. No rust.

[Randall J Cox]

Central Calif here, use either talcum powder or Johnsons paste wax. Johnsons paste wax for over 30 years, no issues. Either in VA where I lived or now taxifornia....

[Bill Serino]

Cool, thanks for the guidance.

It is typically pretty dry here year round but for a few months each year it's pretty humid and hot, July/August.

Figure I might as well be proactive.

[Andrew Hughes]

Johnson paste wax for my me too.On my steel knobs,hand wheels and t handles I use shellac left over from projects it lasts much longer than wax.Only on handle things.Try it you'll like it.:)

[George Werner]

SC Johnson's Paste Wax is all I use. Works great.

[Paul Girouard]

Johnson paste wax , Western Washington , no issues. Wood stove in the shop , other wise unheated. NEVER put a coffee cup , beer can , or soft drink cup on the saw table!
Working around grumpy ole bastids teaches you table saw tables are NOT drink storage tables , even "just for a minute" , or you drink ends up on the floor!

[Charles Lent]

I'm in Central North Carolina. On new clean cast iron I first wipe it down with WD-40, let it sit for an hour and then wipe off any of the WD-40 that's left. I then apply several coats of Johnson's Paste Wax, letting each coat dry to a haze before wiping it off. I re-wax the surfaces about every month, or whenever the wood doesn't seem to slide easily over the surface. My shop is about 100' from a lake and about 4' above it. The shop is heated and air conditioned whenever I'm working in it, and I don't have rusting issues, unless someone (usually #2 son) lays a sweaty hand on one of my machines and I don't clean and re-wax that spot. For the past 2 months we have been getting frequent thunderstorms, almost every evening, so I've been leaving the shop air conditioner on. Most of the Summers that we have do not require this.

I even lubricate the gears and ways of my saws and jointer with Johnson's Paste Wax, applied thick with an old recycled tooth brush. It develops a hard surface coating that sawdust doesn't stick to, but lubricates these surfaces very well. For bearings and shaft pivot points I use a synthetic machine oil or "Mystery Oil" because it doesn't thicken over time.

Charley

[Paul K. Johnson]

I live in the gulf coast of Florida and started a thread like this not long ago. EVERYTHING that can rust in my shop does rust. I've used Johnson's paste wax, T9, a slew of other waxes, rubbed candles on things, beeswax, twenty-leventy kinds of oils and none of it holds up for more than a couple of weeks at best.

My table saw is a contractor saw with a cast aluminum top so no rust there. I was also given the suggestion to coat with zinc and I looked into it back then and forgot about it but it seems like the next thing to try. But the suggestion was for cast iron table tops. I don't think I want to coat my planes and other hand tools with the stuff but maybe.

[Charles Lent]

Air conditioner or dehumidifier is the next best solution, but the shop has to be kept closed up. You can't open the garage door all day and expect the tools not to rust. With a dehumidifier, you need a way to constantly drain the collection tank or it will shut off when the tank is full. If it isn't running, it isn't removing the humidity in the air. The air needs to be 50-60% relative humidity at 75-80 degrees to keep your tools from rusting. The salt air in Florida makes it even more difficult to keep things from rusting. I answered your other post as well. You left out some of the details this time.

Maybe you should look for a Steel City table saw. They have a granite table top and it won't rust, even in Florida.

Charley

[Johanna Johanson]

It's monsoon season here in New Mexico, too. I have never done anything for my cast iron tables other than wax them to keep them slick. It's wonderful living in the dry Southwest instead of Houston!

[Erik Loza]

Big fan of "just paste wax" as well. One thing I make a point to do is completely strip the cast iron table with denatured alcohol or some other solvent before waxing it. Here in TX, I have seen rust develop on waxed tables that I can only conclude came from moisture or fingerprint/hand oil that was left on the table before being waxed, effectively locking that stuff in place. So, I clean the iron while wearing nitrile gloves and then wax immediately afterwards. Just what works for me.

Erik

[Bill Dufour]

Just no silicone in the oil or wax.
Bill

[Rod Sheridan]

That 4% humidity and single digit dew points are a killer on cast....


.

LOL Martin, sarcasm is so under-appreciated.........Regards, Rod.

[Martin Wasner]

LOL Martin, sarcasm is so under-appreciated.........Regards, Rod.


But always appreciated when noted.

[Jon McElwain]

I've used Johnson's paste wax, T9, a slew of other waxes, rubbed candles on things, beeswax, twenty-leventy kinds of oils and none of it holds up for more than a couple of weeks at best.


NEVER put a coffee cup , beer can , or soft drink cup on the saw table! Working around grumpy ole bastids teaches you table saw tables are NOT drink storage tables , even "just for a minute" , or you drink ends up on the floor!

+1 on the short lived effectiveness of most all coatings. Especially if you are using the machines regularly. But like Paul and others have said, you have to take a very proactive approach to keeping anything wet or damp off of the surfaces. I've got kids and they LOVE to put their swim bag, towels, sweaty bike helmets, etc. etc. on the tablesaw "just for a minute." Drives me nuts, but I've about got them trained out of it - NOTHING on the saw. I think I've even had rust spots show up from setting a hand tool with a little oil/sweat from my hands on it.

Lots of high end wood lathes have an option for stainless steel ways - usually adds a few hundred dollars to the price tag. I wonder if any table saws, band saws, joiners, planers, etc. have a stainless option.

[Jordan Lane]

i use baby powder...works great

[John K Jordan]

i use baby powder...works great

If anyone wants to avoid the perfume, additives and corn starch in baby powder here is where I found pure talcum powder:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005U4A9KW

However, talc is reported to be hazardous to the lungs so I avoid making clouds of dust.

JKJ

[Bill Serino]

Thanks for the tip on the Johnson's Paste Wax.

I picked some up and spent the last hour getting it applied.

Yeah it's AZ but the humidity was 86% this morning and currently 54%.

Only for a few months a year but I like to take proper care of my investments :)

ETA: Oh, and how smooth does it make that surface!

[Charles Lent]

You will really appreciate the smoothness of the waxed surface when you pass wood over it, but this is also a signal to you. When it doesn't slide as easily, it's time to add more wax.

85% is too much humidity for your shop. You should be running a de-humidifier when it goes over 50-60 %. Keep your shop closed up during times of high humidity and remove the excess in the shop with an air conditioner or de-humidifier. Both should have condensate drains to the outdoors. Swamp coolers add humidity to the air, and this is great when the humidity is single digit, but you don't want to be running the swamp cooler when the humidity goes up. Workshop humidity problems start when it's about 50% and get worse as it goes higher. Do your best to keep it out of your shop, and wax everything iron that's in the shop.

Charley

[Nick Shattuck]

I keep a 1/4" plywood cover cut to fit the surface on my jointer and bandsaw's tables and leave a "cross-cut" sled on my tablesaw that is the same size as the surface. Having the cast iron covered makes a huge difference. I once left the sled partially exposing the tablesaw's table for a week and I could clearly see rust starting to form on the uncovered part.

So this, in addition to johnson's paste wax is what I use and it works great. My shop is my garage, so no AC.

[Bill Serino]

You will really appreciate the smoothness of the waxed surface when you pass wood over it, but this is also a signal to you. When it doesn't slide as easily, it's time to add more wax.

85% is too much humidity for your shop. You should be running a de-humidifier when it goes over 50-60 %. Keep your shop closed up during times of high humidity and remove the excess in the shop with an air conditioner or de-humidifier. Both should have condensate drains to the outdoors. Swamp coolers add humidity to the air, and this is great when the humidity is single digit, but you don't want to be running the swamp cooler when the humidity goes up. Workshop humidity problems start when it's about 50% and get worse as it goes higher. Do your best to keep it out of your shop, and wax everything iron that's in the shop.

Charley


It's a garage shop and 1 car still gets parked in it and the open door is part of my dust control. No fixing that. It fluctuates from 30%-100% yesterday. Right now it's 72% and will probably burn off by mid afternoon it'll be back to the 30's and if the monsoon rolls in it might rain. It may not but it's only for a few months a year. July and August typically, not too worried about it. The paste wax is perfect.

[Charles Lent]

If you continue to have rusting, strip the wax off with paint thinner and a rag. Try to put on enough paint thinner to disolve the wax in the pores and get it all. Then apply a liberal coat of WD-40 or the equivalent CRC water displacement. Let it soak in for about 1/2 hour and then wipe off all you can get with a clean dry rag Then go back and re-apply the Johnsons Paste Wax and let it dry to a haze before buffing it off. As hot as it is there, you may need to wait until its cool at night or the wax won't dry to a haze. If you wipe it off before it dries, there won't be enough left to protect the cast iron or steel. Then re-wax it again the same way. In your situation, this should work, but you will probably need to apply another coat of wax about weekly while the humidity is higher than 50%, especially if you use the tool. There is no perfect solution when the humidity is this high, except to do this as well as keep the humidity out of where the saw and other tools are located. This means keeping the doors to the garage shut and either an air conditioner or good de-humidifier running constantly with drains to keep the condensate tank from filling and shutting the unit off. It's not a battle, it's a WAR against rust.

Maybe you could keep the cars outside when the humidity is above 50%, and use an air conditioner and fans to circulate the air inside the garage, rather than opening the door. My shop air conditioner runs 24/7 when it's in the 90's and above 50% humidity here Just North of Charlotte, NC). I only open the door (passage door) to go in or out. The big door stays closed when it's like this outside. My cars live outside all Summer.

You kind of have a choice, fight the rust constantly, or close up the garage and keep the humidity low inside through mechanical means. Most woodworkers leave their cars outside rather than fight the rust, but most also wax their tools to make the wood slide easier.

Charley

[Bill Serino]

I actually haven't had any rust.

Just being proactive:)

[Ben Rivel]

WD-40 and a Scotchbrite pad to clean up light rust if it occurs. Havent needed more than that for light rust on new equipment either. Then I clean up with denatured alcohol.


For protection I spray light coating of T-9, wipe on evenly, let dry over night, wipe off excess the next day and apply two coats of Renaissance paste wax allowing to dry 30-60 minutes in between. Used to use the Johnson's Paste Wax, but like the Renaissance more. Keep up with regular applications of the paste wax and never get sweat or moisture on the cast iron and youll be good to go.

[Shawn Pixley]

Southern California beach with a constant hot salty air. I use Boeshield and then paste wax. Cover with a HF moving blanket each night when in use.

[Bill Serino]

So it's been raining like crazy here every afternoon.

Before using paste wax last week I had oil on the tables. I had wiped them off and then used the paste wax.

Turns out what I thought was either stains or residual packaging grease may had been rust... or maybe it was just residual packaging grease.

So I got some distilled white vinegar, no scratch scotchbite scrubbing pads and already had #0000 steel wool and went to town.

Spent a few hours cleaning the oscillating sanders table, drill press table and the band saw table. Got them sparkling and put about 4 coats of paste wax on back them.

Looking beautiful.

That got me wondering. What do you guys do with your clamps and other types of tools you keep out in the shop. Routers, sawsall, grinders etc etc...

I guess most of those tools are aluminum so it doesn't really matter. I've had my jig saw, framing saw out there for years and never even thought about it. But the clamps....

[Charles Lent]

Anything that wants to rust or needs to slide easily can be waxed. I wax my chrome plated planer bed, the soles of my circular saws, even my granite flat plate
(actually a 18" square scrap of granite counter top) that I use for precise measuring and sharpening. I coat my un-plated tools with WD-40 applied and wipe off with a rag. For instance, I have several pair of Channel-lock pliers that are un-plated. I've had them for 50 years or more. They have developed a patina. (not sure I would really call it rust), but there is never any noticeable flaky or bumpy rust on them. As I'm putting my wrenches back in the tool box after using them, I wipe off any thick oil or grease and then give them the "WD-40 on a rag" treatment too. The WD-40 removes all traces of dirt and grease while protecting them from rust, should the plating maybe get chipped in use. If I build any type of small cabinet with wood runners or slides, I always put Johnson's Past Wax on the runners and slides too. Then add more whenever the drawers don't seem to slide well. Johnson't paste Wax is all that I use for lubricating gears and ways in my Unisaw, planer, and band saw table. For this purpose, I apply it thick with an old tooth brush to the wear points. It makes an excellent lubricant that doesn't experience sawdust build-up like oils and automotive grease does in these places. The surface of the wax dries, so the sawdust doesn't stick to it. I use TriFlow lubricant on shaft bearings, etc. in the tools where the Johnson's isn't appropriate.

In central NC we are getting heavy rain and thunder storms almost every evening. The temperatures have been in the high 90's every day, and it hit 100 in the late afternoon 2 days ago My shop air conditioner (a window style heat pump mounted high through the North wall) doesn't keep up when it's above 90. It was 87 when I quit working in there yesterday. Fortunately, my house systems have been sized large enough, so I have a cooler place to go when it gets this way.

Charley