Dyeing Wood

[Jerry Bruette]

Is it possible to use Rit fabric dye to dye wood? Specifically Maple. Has anyone done this and how was the outcome?

[Evan Stewart]

I have always used general finishes dye for maple. I generally use waterborne stains so i usually have to pre tint maple to get the color i want. I have had the best success using general finishes dye or trans tint in a pre wash and then mixing with a sanding sealer.

I would imagine that fabric dye would work but my concern would be that it may not be as color fast as the appropriate dye.

[Steve Schoene]

I wouldn't risk using the RIT since it doesn't need to have much UV resistance to be used on clothing or fabric shoes.

I'm not fond of the General Finishes waterborne Dye Stain product since it includes a binder that makes it harder to use in my opinion, at least if not spraying.

My preference is for powdered water soluble dye, either W.D Lockwood, which has both many colors and also standard aniline dyes in addition of metallic dye that is even more color fast. TransFast is also a good product, but available in fewer colors. I don't like TransTint unless I were mixing it with finish as a toner that would be sprayed on. But the powdered dye can be mixed to desired intensity. It can easily be applied by hand, by flooding it on (I use a sponge) starting at the bottom and working up. Since it has no binder it can be "adjusted" after it dries using water to lighten it, or even using chlorine bleach to virtually remove it entirely.





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[John TenEyck]

RIT dye will probably work but, as others have said, it likely won't be as colorfast as most wood dyes. In that regard, Transtint is my favorite, by far. On the other hand, I used food coloring once to dye a maple "apple" yellow. It worked very well and 5+ years later it's still nice and yellow and shows no signs of fading. I did specifically use GF's High Performance Poly as the finish because it has a UV package in it. So either the food dye is more colorfast than I thought or the HP Poly protected it, or both.

If the piece you want to dye is worth anything I would use dye made for wood. Even at $20 for a little bottle, Transtint is an incredible bargain.

John

[Prashun Patel]

I used RIT a couple times. I think the black is too blue.

You will find that the powders and transtint dyes are quite economical in the long run. There are more color choices with these too vs RIT.

[Steve Schoene]

Let me explain why I prefer powdered dye as opposed to TransTint, at least when the dye and sealer is to be applied by hand as opposed to spraying. Transtint is soluble in water, alcohol, and "oil",ie. lacquer thinner. That means any coating applied on top of TransTint dye will dissolve it. It doesn't matter if the TransTint itself was mixed in water or alcohol or lacquer thinner. Lifting the dye isn't a problem when spraying topcoat since a first dry coat can prevent any difficulties. If the coat on top of transtint dye is applied by hand, either pad or brush, there is a good chance that enough dye will lift to create streaks and the like.

Of course if TransTint is mixed with a finish materialto be used as a toner that won't happen but unless that toner is skillfully sprayed it is challenging, to say the least, to get even coloration without streaks.

[Jerry Bruette]

I made 5 kaleidoscopes for Christmas presents a few years ago and never made one for the LOML . I'll be making another for my granddaughter this summer and thought now would be the time to make the one for the LOML.

Any way the scopes are hexagon shaped and I wanted to dye each side a color of the rainbow and the base would be the seventh color. I have four of the colors in TransFast already and I'd have to buy the remaining three, Orange, Indigo, and Violet. Don't even know if those colors are available but I was just thinking that Rit could be an economical option.

Would wipe on poly be a good topcoat over the TransFast?

[George Bokros]

I used TransTint dye mixed in water applied by hand. Top coat was GF ArmrSeal applied by hand and had no lifting or pulling of the dye. Guess I was lucky.

[keith archer]

I have used Rit dye and coated with clear semi-gloss enamel. Applied heavy and wiped off excess to desired effect. These are art pieces and not subject t excessive UV light

[John TenEyck]

All very true, Steve, but there are two easy ways around that issue. One way is to use a OB sealer and/or topcoat, as Georg did below. The other way is to spray a coat of sealer over the dye. For those who don't have spray equipment, just use rattle can shellac which is dewaxed so you can put any topcoat over it, any way you want.

I use dyes about every way possible and Transtint is the only brand I've found that can do it all so that's why it's my first choice.

John

[Marvin Hasenak]

I have use bird toy dye, http://www.mightybirdtoys.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1 But at $12 a bottle that gets expensive. I also use alcohol based Fiebings Leather dye. Never had any problems with finishes on either one.

[Wayne Lomman]

Give the Rit a try and see what effect you get. No single type of stain or dye does everything and you may get the result you want. I haven't tried Rit but that's only because it hasn't occurred to me before reading this. Its an idea to stash away for future consideration.

Given the end use of the object, I don't think UV is going to be a problem. In any case, all colours and finishes are affected by light. It is only the rate of change and the type of change that varies. Besides, clothes are worn out in the sun so it can't be too unstable. Cheers