Derek Cohen
07-01-2017, 11:08 AM
There have been a few posts recently on Moxon vises. Some have considered adding the Benchcraft table (creating a bench-on-bench), and others have considered incorporating David Barron's side fence. My reply has been: the table places the work pieces too low down in the vise, and you will end up cutting into the chop when you transfer the saw cut. The side fence is an excellent idea, but it is another jig that is about the same size as the moxon vise itself. Actually, the table is large as well.
I have a tiny add-on that solves the issues of transfer for me. Not the blue tape method, which is about making lines visible, but the issue of holding the boards in a way that limits any movement.
In truth, I have two add-ons, and the second is not tiny. But it is not large, and one can forgo it. Still, the two together are terrific.
Here is my set up. The moxon vise lives under my bench. It is secured down by two hold downs.
https://s19.postimg.org/9sfkqes9v/Moxon_transfer_rest1.jpg
The add-on is attached at the rear of the vise with a hinge ...
https://s19.postimg.org/57tebh8kj/Moxon_transfer_rest2.jpg
Flip it over, and a spacer rests on the rear of the vise. The top of the space has 400 grit wet-and-dry as non-slip ...
https://s19.postimg.org/7dnp5zc0z/3.jpg
The height of the spacer is the same as the rear rest (I-Beam), which as has non-slip. If you instead use a handplane as a rest, you can save on one more jig.
https://s19.postimg.org/gzh9ma36r/4.jpg
The method is to raise the pin board up to the spacer, and then rest the tail board on top. The non-slip will prevent it from moving ...
https://s19.postimg.org/hdn6zmco3/5.jpg
It is very simple to align the two boards. Either use the back of a wide chisel ...
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/HalfBlindDovetailswithBlueTape_html_m7d736cb9.jpg
... or use a square against the face of pin board and the side of the tail board. Both these methods are very accurate. The most recent drawer that I dovetailed is 40" long, and any small error would have shown up here.
https://s19.postimg.org/kk089jcwz/18a.jpg
Regards from Perth
Derek
I have a tiny add-on that solves the issues of transfer for me. Not the blue tape method, which is about making lines visible, but the issue of holding the boards in a way that limits any movement.
In truth, I have two add-ons, and the second is not tiny. But it is not large, and one can forgo it. Still, the two together are terrific.
Here is my set up. The moxon vise lives under my bench. It is secured down by two hold downs.
https://s19.postimg.org/9sfkqes9v/Moxon_transfer_rest1.jpg
The add-on is attached at the rear of the vise with a hinge ...
https://s19.postimg.org/57tebh8kj/Moxon_transfer_rest2.jpg
Flip it over, and a spacer rests on the rear of the vise. The top of the space has 400 grit wet-and-dry as non-slip ...
https://s19.postimg.org/7dnp5zc0z/3.jpg
The height of the spacer is the same as the rear rest (I-Beam), which as has non-slip. If you instead use a handplane as a rest, you can save on one more jig.
https://s19.postimg.org/gzh9ma36r/4.jpg
The method is to raise the pin board up to the spacer, and then rest the tail board on top. The non-slip will prevent it from moving ...
https://s19.postimg.org/hdn6zmco3/5.jpg
It is very simple to align the two boards. Either use the back of a wide chisel ...
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/HalfBlindDovetailswithBlueTape_html_m7d736cb9.jpg
... or use a square against the face of pin board and the side of the tail board. Both these methods are very accurate. The most recent drawer that I dovetailed is 40" long, and any small error would have shown up here.
https://s19.postimg.org/kk089jcwz/18a.jpg
Regards from Perth
Derek