Routers for Tenons on Long Bed Rails?

[JohnM Martin]

What is the preferred method for cutting tenons on long pieces, e.g., bed rails? I've read several places that taking a router to the stock is a good approach with proper jig or fence setup to secure a straight/stable cut. I was thinking of giving this a try. Anyone use this method? If so, would a full size or trim router work better for this task (assume oak/walnut stock)? Trying to visualize how this would work, it would seem that a smaller router might be easier to control? Am I thinking about this correctly?

[Robert Engel]

That would be a good way. Use a full size router with a large base.
You can also perform this task with a radial arm saw w/ dado blade.
You can also make the cheek cuts with a bandsaw and clean up with hand tools.

[Rod Sheridan]

I use a shaper.

If I didn't have a shaper I would use a back saw.

regards, Rod.

[Jim Becker]

Using a router for at least the face cuts can be a safe way of doing the tenons on long material. I'd probably create a jig to make the cuts consistent across all four ends of the two bed-rails while allowing for multiple passes to keep things clean. I'd do the haunches, if any, by hand using a hand saw afterward.

[JohnM Martin]

Using a router for at least the face cuts can be a safe way of doing the tenons on long material. I'd probably create a jig to make the cuts consistent across all four ends of the two bed-rails while allowing for multiple passes to keep things clean. I'd do the haunches, if any, by hand using a hand saw afterward.

Thanks, Jim. That makes sense to me. Would you prefer a full size or compact/palm router? Also, would a pattern bit be the way to go or would you recommend something else?

[Jim Becker]

John, for this job, I'd be using something like a typical 12-13 amp mid-size router. The jig needs to fully support the router, too, and it will cradle the workpiece, so it has to be built with the rail width dimension in mind. This is not a "pattern" operation, so something with a bearing isn't going to help much here. The diameter of the bit, however, is material because you'll need to calculate the cut edge position to have a fence on your jig that fixes the shoulder "right on the line". Once you make that pass/cut, the rest can is freehand to hog away the material. You'll want to make 2-3 passes per side, IMHO, for a clean cut.

[Wayne Lomman]

Using a router for this is a good way to do it. As Jim said, use a decent sized router and make your jig to fully support the router as well. I have used this method many times when other machinery is not available and when you need odd angled tenons. If you don't have a shaper or whatever, making a jig gets the same result if you do it right. Cheers

[Charles Lent]

I've done it with my FMT Pro jig clamped to my neighbor's deck railing (with his permission). I'm not saying that you should buy an FMT jig, but any similar style shop built mortise and tenon jig and a router could do it if you have a high place to locate the jig. Deck railing, pull down stairway, scaffold? How about a flat board mounted to a second story window sill to clamp the jig to? There's lots of possibilities. I have a pull down stairway access to the loft of my shop and plan to use it the next time, since my neighbor closed in his deck (no more railing).

Charley

[John Piwaron]

What is the preferred method for cutting tenons on long pieces, e.g., bed rails? I've read several places that taking a router to the stock is a good approach with proper jig or fence setup to secure a straight/stable cut. I was thinking of giving this a try. Anyone use this method? If so, would a full size or trim router work better for this task (assume oak/walnut stock)? Trying to visualize how this would work, it would seem that a smaller router might be easier to control? Am I thinking about this correctly?

I have an L shaped jig that I clamp on and use as a template guide for a router with a ball bearing guided straight bit. Well, helical, actually. I get the cheek cut and the shoulder. Then flip it over and clamp on the other side to complete the cut. There's plenty of surface for the router to ride on. And I get a nice clean square shouldered cut.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have done this. I made the shoulder cuts by hand, to keep the edges crisp, and then hogged it out with a spiral bit and a large base to support the router.

Doc

[Dan Cameron]

This is a good job for a horizontal slot mortiser of the type where the cutting bit moves and the material is stationary with, perhaps, an outboard material support. There are quite a few designs out on the net.