Input sought in design/build of custom dollhouse

[Jay Michaels]

I'm about to start down the path of designing and constructing a custom dollhouse for my daughters. It will be a 1:12 model of our current home - a traditional colonial style 2-story home.

I have not yet answered for myself how I will design access -- the standard open back won't suffice given that there are rooms in the front that would otherwise be accessible only through doorways. I may make it a traditional open back, but then also have the front walls on hinges to open up access to the front. Has anyone done this before?

Before getting to that point though - a question more pertinent to this early design stage: what wood is best for the floors and exterior walls? I don't want this thing to be too ridiculously heavy, but at the same time, I want it to stand up to the use of a 4- and 6-year old and stand the test of time. I'm leaning toward 1/2" baltic ply for the primary structure (floor and exterior walls) rather than some form of MDF or other products that could swell substantially/permanently if they get a few drops of water on them. I like the stability of MDF against warping (versus plywood), but I don't care for the weight and the susceptibility to moisture...

[Lee Schierer]

You could also hinge the roof so it can be tilted 45 degrees when the house is being played with.

[Yonak Hawkins]

Jay, you might consider Ultralight MDF. It's 2/3 the weight of regular MDF. A product I make is of 1/2" UMDF and, being in close proximity to water in use, I've tested for swelling and was surprised to find my test pieces didn't when floating on water overnight. Now, I only tested the product from one manufacturer so I can't say it's all the same. Also, the product is not rated to be water resistant, but you're not building a boat. Thinner MDF is also made but I can't say it's universally available, however even 1/2" UMDF can tend to sag over time if long stretches are insufficiently supported. Another option to reduce weight may be 1/4" luan plywood.

[Bob Michaels]

Jay, just a wild thought but you might consider hinging the house at the midpoint of the side wall so it opens like a book. Since your home is traditional in style it probably has a center bearing wall parallel to the front and back walls so you could make the back wall removable for access and then access to the front half would be via the hinged section I mention above. I would also incorporate the removable roof for 2nd story access. Just a thought.

[Yonak Hawkins]

It had been several years since I did the moisture test in the 1/2" Ultralight MDF so I thought I'd re-do it and share the results here.

Here are the pieces I used for the test before dunking :

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Here are the pieces just after I put them in the water and then after soaking overnight :

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Here are the pieces immediately after taking out of the bath and then after drying for 5 or 6 hours :

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Totally dry :

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The results were the same as last time .. no swelling. I don't know if the UMDF would deform under weight after being subjected to moisture. That could be a test for another time.

[andy bessette]

...I'm leaning toward 1/2" baltic ply...

WAY heavy! I would think 3/8" (something lighter than Baltic birch) would be much more appropriate.

[Marvin Hasenak]

I used Baltic plywood, 1/2" for the base and 3/8" for the outside walls. For interior walls, sometimes I used the 1/8 mahogany ply, others the 1/8 Baltic ply. It is best to find your interior and exterior supplier first for doors windows etc., so you can get them to fit right with your interior and exterior walls. I had one the lady changed her mind and the walls were too thin to work with the doors and windows she changed to. It is like building a real house, get it all together and do not allow changes.

[Mel Fulks]

Thanks Yonak,always like to see tests. I've used that stuff and like it ,my GUESS would have been it would it would turn to mush.