Curved moulding profile.. techniques/tools?

[alex grams]

I am looking at making a bed and the wife likes the footboard/headboard on this bed:
https://www.pbteen.com/ptimgs/rk/images/dp/wcm/201721/0007/img54c.jpg

Any thoughts on how to do the details on the piece? The curves and such I can do easily enough to make the pieces, but cutting the profile/fluite in to it over a compound curve is throwing me off. A template with a router is about the only thing I can come up with.

Ideas? Thanks in advance.

[Jim Becker]

I'm also thinking template routing, either with hand-held or inverted on a table. In both cases the guide bushing follows the pattern.

[Jim Morgan]

The problem here is that the flute is offset from the curved edges of the pieces; the difficult part is maintaining the same distance from the edge all around the curve. Depending on the size of the flutes, a scratch stock with a curved fence is one possibility, or a handheld router with a single-point fence, or an offset overhead pin router arm (MLCS sells one for <$50, but YGWYPF).

[Mel Fulks]

There are lots of similar variations on that design. This one is intended to be a modest provential piece. I would hand carve it; even though I have no carving talent.

[Peter Quinn]

I'm thinking a trim router, like a little colt on a plunge base perhaps due to stop cut, with one of these (https://www.toolstoday.com/p-6208-point-cutting-roundover-router-bits.aspx?variantids=11511,0/?gdffi=df1cb0f3ab644accbe5cae9671f148bf&gdfms=AABCE06B7D0048A8A8FEDF82476F5D7F&gclid=CjwKEAjw1a3KBRCY9cfsmdmWgQ0SJAATUZ8bp3uDQJtC a1bLO46pA84FdVjkwMqCDndGdGzlFJT88BoCVenw_wcB) to make that flute, a 1/4 round of equal radius run off a bearing from the outside edge makes the first part, for the "veining" you can make a custom base, maybe 1/2" plywood, get a ball bearing of some sort and attach it to this base plate outboard of the bit with a bolt of same ID , so the bearing rides what is the top edge of your headboard. I'd probably lay everything out, mark your spring angles but leave the parts long for routing, then miter/join, may have to carve/shape the transitions a bit. Ive use a similar concept to make curved molded doors, takes a bit of practice to follow a curve when the bearing is not integral to the bit, think of it as a powered scratch stock! I used a bearing from one of those bearing kits but any cheap ball bearing of sufficient thickness would work, even a small shaper bearing could work if you plug the center. Bigger is better to a point.

Two points of contact make it easier to steer, commercial options are available, here's a link showing the basic concept. Second picture the operator is following the edge of a round table top, same idea for your molding.


http://www.rockler.com/universal-router-base

[andy bessette]

...
https://www.pbteen.com/ptimgs/rk/images/dp/wcm/201721/0007/img54c.jpg

...cutting the profile/fluite in to it over a compound curve is throwing me off...

Where is the compound curve?

[Jim Morgan]

"Reversing" curve, I believe - headboard & footboard appear to be flat.

[Wayne Lomman]

Andy is correct, this is not compound curving. Compound means curving in more than one plane.

That aside, either make a template which is a lot of work for a one-off, or as others have said, use a single roller guide with the appropriate cutter. My Makita router came with one. If you don't have one, make a fixed one out of a piece of timber with a radius sanded on one corner. It will work fine and costs nothing. Cheers

[Leo Graywacz]

Like this.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThfqPJf8xdM

[Jim Becker]

It occurs to me after re-examining the illustration that there are two challenges here...one is relatively easy to solve and that's the edge treatment. But unless I'm mistaken, the bed in the illustration has the face of the frame relieved/carved out which forms a double bead. THAT is going to be fun!!

[Mel Fulks]

Please look at some good examples. The one we are seeing is not like the better pieces. In op pic each section of the frame is dubbed off at the ends to literally avoid a seamless smooth flowing perimeter with good tight joints in favor of highlighting the joints to avoid labor. The area between the beads is not scooped out enough,some areas look flat. We are puzling over determining what's there...because there isn't much to see.

[Tony Leonard]

It does appear to be more of a flute than a bead. I would do it with a scratch stock for sure. Easy, safe, etc. Might make a tool that is reversible since there is a lot of scratching there. It would go quicker than you'd think though. I would probably alter the design and make it a bead on the corner, but that is a subjective thing. Looks like a neat project. Are you going to try and do a similar finish? What kind of wood are you thinking?

Lots of good scratch articles out there. A few places even sell ready made tools.

Tony

[Ted Reischl]

Carve it. Draw the layout line which is easy, dig out a V chisel, take a light first pass to establish things and allow to correct for any wandering. Quiet and allows one to make it special.

I think it is a bead too, so doing that with a router is going to be a challenge. And then, there is the V cut between the beads. Going to do that with a router too?

Why so many woodworkers are afraid of using a hand tool, especially a carving tool is beyond me. Once you understand the idea about not carving against the grain all goes darn smoothly.

[Mark Bolton]

I'm a W&H lover myself, but the flares at the feet still need to be addressed.