Shop Equipment Advice Wanted

[Steve Siwek]

Hello,

Slowly starting to get my garage organized for woodworking and I'm looking for some advice on how to best spend some money at the store to equip my workshop. Received a gift card for $100 and want to make sure I spend wisely on the right equipment. Currently I have:

Table saw,
Router and bits
Chop saw
circular saw
jig saw
shop vac
drills
various sanders
straight edges, speed squares, combination square
4 bar clamps
bench clamps
radio :)


I bought plywood to build the router table as the plunge router came with a fixed base as well so I need a few more items for that, but I'm not sure if there is more equipment/tools I should get (for example trigger clamps) or should I put the money into wood to build things for the shop such as a moveable cart to store my wood in, cabinets for storage, etc. Any advice and opinions are welcome.

Thanks,
Steve

[Prashun Patel]

I'd buy some lumber and build a bench.

You'll need money for a vise.

[Malcolm McLeod]

I'd buy some lumber and build a bench.

You'll need money for a vise.

....+1....

[Andy Giddings]

....+1....
+2 - depending on your space you might double it up as an assembly table/outfeed table. Another option is to drill a pattern of dog holes in the top. If you can't afford solid lumber for the bench there are plenty of free plans/videos for a torsion box setup

[vince dale]

More clamps! You'll learn the hard way you can never have to many :)

[Steve Siwek]

+2 - depending on your space you might double it up as an assembly table/outfeed table. Another option is to drill a pattern of dog holes in the top. If you can't afford solid lumber for the bench there are plenty of free plans/videos for a torsion box setup

Buying stock seems to be the popular answer which is the way I was leaning. My garage is the workspace, so I need items that 1. can get put away easily, 2. serve multiple purposes as much as possible. Seeing as I don't have an outfeed table yet, doing as suggested above, I think is my best option. As well as getting a couple of quick clamps to have an extra pair of hands, I've looked for that a few times already. Thanks everyone!

Steve

[glenn bradley]

I also advise you to get some stock and build something. No one can tell you what tools you will find valuable and which ones you will not. Just ask my chop saw that is idling away the years out in the shed.

I find quick clamps to be almost useless and favor good spring clamps as my helping hand. They are also about a buck a piece at Home Depot on a regular basis. As mentioned however, this doesn't mean you won't love QuikGrip clamps.

You mention your shop is in your garage but, you also say "can get put away easily" which leads me to believe you are one of those weird-o's who put cars, motorcycles or other internal combustion machines in your shop :D. Seriously, agreeing to park her pickup in the driveway was one of our wedding vows.

There is a ton of good info here about space-saving, multi-purpose tool stands and fixtures. Setting up shop is a very exciting time. Take it slow and acquire items as you REALLY need them. Nothing costs more than a cheap tool or one that someone else says you "gotta have" that you end up never using.

P.s. You "gotta have" a workbench :). I have one but, I also have a multi-purpose, assembly table, outfeed, drawer unit. (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?230825-Tablesaw-Outfeed-Assembly-Table-Drawer-Unit&highlight=)

[Randy Heinemann]

I agree that building a bench (wasn't on your list) would be a good next step. The idea of using it as an infeed or outfeed table is a great one. That means, though, that you should start thinking about the heights of your table saw and other tools that it might mesh with so that you build it at the right height. The other thing to consider with a bench is that, although it works well as an infeed/outfeed table, a bench at just the right height for you personally is also a very important thing to consider regardless of the height of your other tools. There are a number of online videos or articles on building simple benches. It doesn't have to be complicated or the best bench in the world; just solid, heavy enough so it doesn't move when working on it. There was a great video series on the Fine Woodworking website years ago on building a workbench. It was simple, used either MDF or plywood for the top (possibly with a layer of hardwood) and I believe they built it with less tools than you already have. If you go to www.finewoodworking.com and type "workbench" in the Fine Woodworking search field you will get a lot of items returned, but 2 of them are "Build Your First Workbench" and "A Basic Bench That's Quick To Make". (In fact both may actually be the same bench.) I built a bench similar bench to these as my first bench and used it for probably 20 years before I finally made a new one. These benches are easy to make, don't take any difficult to obtain materials, relatively inexpensive compared to a much more complicated bench, and can be weighted underneath with either sandbags or you can make a box in which to install drawers or shelves for storage (which also translates to more weight). You can do anything you want with the basic bench, including installing whatever kind of vise you feel works for you and adding to it as needed.

[Lee Schierer]

If you don't already have them, get some good quality ear protection muffs.

[Steve Siwek]

I also advise you to get some stock and build something. No one can tell you what tools you will find valuable and which ones you will not. Just ask my chop saw that is idling away the years out in the shed.

I find quick clamps to be almost useless and favor good spring clamps as my helping hand. They are also about a buck a piece at Home Depot on a regular basis. As mentioned however, this doesn't mean you won't love QuikGrip clamps.

You mention your shop is in your garage but, you also say "can get put away easily" which leads me to believe you are one of those weird-o's who put cars, motorcycles or other internal combustion machines in your shop :D. Seriously, agreeing to park her pickup in the driveway was one of our wedding vows.

There is a ton of good info here about space-saving, multi-purpose tool stands and fixtures. Setting up shop is a very exciting time. Take it slow and acquire items as you REALLY need them. Nothing costs more than a cheap tool or one that someone else says you "gotta have" that you end up never using.

P.s. You "gotta have" a workbench :). I have one but, I also have a multi-purpose, assembly table, outfeed, drawer unit. (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?230825-Tablesaw-Outfeed-Assembly-Table-Drawer-Unit&highlight=)

Haha, yea the wife had the audacity to tell me she wants to park in the garage and for some reason she objected to having the lawn mower and grass cutter sitting in the back yard :) Thanks for the tip on the spring clamps, do you recommend a specific kind? I see some have a flat end to grip the material flat and others the tips follow the angle of the handle sort of speak. I have 2 stationary work benches in the garage, but I definitely need one that can be moved around and have, as you mention multi-purpose function.

Thanks,
Steve

[Bill Dufour]

I like quality two drawer file cabinets. as a base for machines or tables. Find them under $20 and they work well for some storage needs. By quality I mean full extension slides etc. If they are locked they are even cheaper. easy enough to unlock from the bottom or drill out the cylinder.
Two drawer lateral files are good also. My grinder is on top of a three drawer cabinet which are harder to find.
If you want a full height file cabinet get the five drawer units instead of the four drawers. they cost the same,used, and the five drawers are sturdy enough for wood working tools.
Bill D

[David Gutierrez]

for my garage shop I built the Ron Paulk work bench. you might want to check it out, google it. it is very handy, can be broken down and stored flat against the wall.

[David Eisenhauer]

Adding which particular "stuff" or tools/clamps/jigs/etc is largely dependent upon what kind of items you typically intend to build and that typicality may very well change over time (see where Glenn's chop saw went up above). I would start building things and then slowly add in "stuff" that helped me build what I liked to build. It is easy to convince yourself that you need some tool or jig that "everyone" says you need only to find that it sits around without being used. A tablesaw outfeed/assembly/glueup table seems to be a good starting point and should not be too costly to jump into. Sometimes new guys tend to concentrate a little too much on tool/equipment purchasing and shop setup rather than actual projects. Go slow on adding tools and equipment and start building is my advise.

[andy bessette]

A good bench/assembly table can be made using a solid core door atop 2 saw horses or roll-away cabinets (preferably with casters removed). But you really need a woodworking vise.

[Ken Kortge]

If your tools have accessories that allow you to connect them to a shop vac you might want to start focusing on dust control. Get a shop vac and put a Dust Deputy or Rockler Dust Right Separator between the tool and the shop vac to collect the dust & chips. Of course you'll want a hose long enough to be comfortable, and I've moved to smaller diameter 1-1/4 inch hose - not the 2.5 inch stuff - for hand-held tools.

I've been reading about how poorly most shop vacs do in catching the very fine dust that is the biggest risk to your health, so I've added the best filter I can to my shop vac and have started wearing a good half-mask respirator while cutting. I try to leave the area for a while after cutting to let the dust settle before returning. There is a big benefit to working in a garage where you can open the large door to get lots of fresh air and hopefully get some flow-through to remove the dust.

[Archie England]

I live in the deep South where humidity is horrendous; but I've managed to have very low rust in my garage shop over the last 11 years. Be sure to leave a fan on to circulate the air 24/7. Rust on you TS and other heavy equipment can be a bummer.

I also believe a bench is the #1 tool (with at least one vise) to begin WW. My first two were disasters; the third try has been mostly great.

Two questions directed toward me were largely helpful-- (1) what do I intend to build, and (2) will I use plywood or milled wood stock? A band saw outperforms a table saw for ripping (especially with no danger of kickback). Get a robust bandsaw with at least 10" of throat clearance. The taller, the better. With all the warpage of wood, a jointer and a planer are likewise superior to a table saw in addressing cupping, twisting, etc. Unfortunately, wood other than plywood moves a lot once the cutting begins--the thicker the start size, typically the more noticeable the movement.

If you've got the funds, Sams carries a Maple slab workbench that can also house a separate tool storage unit (approx 72Lx26wx36.5h). It's not the perfect bench but it sure beats the clumsy crap I first built.

Have fun and be safe.

[Evan Stewart]

A good bench/assembly table can be made using a solid core door atop 2 saw horses or roll-away cabinets (preferably with casters removed). But you really need a woodworking vise.
+1 i use salvaged doors for all work surfaces. They are $20 at the salvage shop up the street. Because space is also limited in my shop i have a few of them set up for different stages of work and i can interchange them on the same base.

[Evan Stewart]

If your tools have accessories that allow you to connect them to a shop vac you might want to start focusing on dust control. Get a shop vac and put a Dust Deputy or Rockler Dust Right Separator between the tool and the shop vac to collect the dust & chips. Of course you'll want a hose long enough to be comfortable, and I've moved to smaller diameter 1-1/4 inch hose - not the 2.5 inch stuff - for hand-held tools.

I've been reading about how poorly most shop vacs do in catching the very fine dust that is the biggest risk to your health, so I've added the best filter I can to my shop vac and have started wearing a good half-mask respirator while cutting. I try to leave the area for a while after cutting to let the dust settle before returning. There is a big benefit to working in a garage where you can open the large door to get lots of fresh air and hopefully get some flow-through to remove the dust.
This is a must for sure! If you do set up a separation system you can add a filter bag to the shop vac or get a drywall dust filter for your shop vac that will catch a lot of the fine particles. I found a dywall vac on Craigslist that has a 3 stage filter and i attach it to my sanders, palm router, biscuit joiner and other hand held tools and it works great. I do need to clean the filters frequently but i can see how much it is catching and the last filter is usually clean so i feel like it is able to capture pretty much everything that makes it in. I feel that this particular type of vac does equivalent level of filtration as my dust collector on a much smaller scale.

[Ted Reischl]

A band saw outperforms a table saw for ripping (especially with no danger of kickback). Get a robust bandsaw with at least 10" of throat clearance. The taller, the better. With all the warpage of wood, a jointer and a planer are likewise superior to a table saw in addressing cupping, twisting, etc. Unfortunately, wood other than plywood moves a lot once the cutting begins--the thicker the start size, typically the more noticeable the movement.

I am going to respectfully disagree with most of what you wrote there.

A bandsaw "outperforms" a table saw for ripping? Not hardly. No matter what you do on that bandsaw you must then clean up the raggedy edge it cuts. I will agree that a jointer works well for removing cupping and twisting. But a table saw with a sled or long fence will work just fine for jointing edges.

I don't know where you buy your wood or if you cut it yourself. Most of the wood I buy does NOT move a lot once the cutting begins. I do a lot of big box store pine which is notorious for movement but it is not "a lot". And frankly, I expect it and joint it on the table saw way faster than you ever will on a jointer.

Here is one of the nasty little myths of woodworking: Joint one edge straight, then cut the opposite edge on the saw, it will be parallel. By your own statement doing so will cause the wood to move and that is the end of the jointed edge being straight. And that is exactly my experience.

If bandsaws "outperformed" table saws, the table saws would have gone the way of dinosaurs by now. But they haven't. For a good reason. They outperform bandsaws for ripping stock up to about 3 inches thick.

Oh, and ripping on the bandsaw will not prevent the wood from moving, at all.

[Archie England]

Hello Ted,

Appreciate your honest feedback.

I tend to need clean up even after a TS at times; but, yes, all the time following the band saw. I do believe ripping is safer on the bs; perhaps that's just preference since I tend to start with half logs. Though I've rehabbed a beautiful old PM66 from the early 80s, I'm moving further away from the TS for numerous reasons--the 10 most important being my fingers.

I guess my counsel is based upon my own personal entry into ww, in which the cure to all needs and problems was a table saw. Having started with a lower end saw, however, was very frustrating. It wasn't until I used the PM66 that I got better results. And, absolutely I can get great finished edges on many table saw cuts--just not all. For that reason, I've adapted to chasing the bs with planes to sneak up on the edge I want.

Thanks again, for improving on what I said. I'm still learning and certainly don't want to provide errant information.

[John K Jordan]

I tend to need clean up even after a TS at times; but, yes, all the time following the band saw. I do believe ripping is safer on the bs; perhaps that's just preference since I tend to start with half logs. Though I've rehabbed a beautiful old PM66 from the early 80s, I'm moving further away from the TS for numerous reasons--the 10 most important being my fingers. ...

Archie,

I agree with you about the bandsaw. For me, the bandsaw is the most important and useful large power tool in my shop (besides my lathes). And the safest saw too. Ripping, green wood from (round) logs, preparing turning blanks, resawing, crosscuts on short things - I use my bandsaws more than my cabinet saw or small TS. For smaller work, I would rather rip small things with the bandsaw then clean up with a plane as needed. If I were building big things, or horrors, cabinets, I would probably use my TS more. (I have a new PM66 with a Robland sliding table in the shop.)

Of course, it ALL boils down to what kind of things one does in the shop. My needs are certainly different from the next guy. And some of it depends on each person's experience and how he was taught or learned to do things. A production shop needs are likely pretty far from a hobby shop too.

An important issue might be the bandsaw itself, the blade, and how it's set up. A small, cheap, poorly adjusted bandsaw with the wrong blade is not a joy to use. I mostly use an 18" Rikon in the shop, occasionally a smaller Delta, and a Woodmizer outside.

JKJ

[Archie England]

A production shop needs are likely pretty far from a hobby shop too.

An important issue might be the bandsaw itself, the blade, and how it's set up. A small, cheap, poorly adjusted bandsaw with the wrong blade is not a joy to use. I mostly use an 18" Rikon in the shop, occasionally a smaller Delta, and a Woodmizer outside.

JKJ

Two great points JKJ.

An older friend gave me his vintage Sears 12" band saw. With a 1/4" blade it struggled on most cuts in anything deeper than 3/8 wood. I gave it away and replaced it with a stout 16" Jet, with several blades; but my go to blade is 3/4" that rips all but the half logs like butter. Plus, this blade tracks very straight rips unless I'm using bad technique. A quality TS is a tremendous tool, just not necessarily the single best one around which to build a shop since that depends upon your projects.

[Roger Feeley]

Build something for the bride. The best investment if you are thinking long-term. Always keep a steady stream of work coming out of the shop.

[Ted Reischl]

Buy the USB thumb drive that has every Shop Notes on it. Knowledge is way more useful than tools. After all, if you do not know WHAT you can build you will wind up building goofy stuff, like workbenches that wobble.

[Robert Newton]

A good disc / belt sander.

[Bill White]

If you are using the blade that came on your TS, spring for a good quality combo saw blade. You'll be amazed what a good blade can do even on a moderate table saw.
Bill