Need advice re a bandsaw purchase

[Tom Hammond]

Last year, I bought an old NE Ohio house (built around 1830) that has balloon-framed full-dimensional studs and joists in oak... and I believe it is white oak. It is obviously old growth lumber as the growth rings are incredibly tight and the material is incredibly heavy. I pulled down a couple non-bearing walls and had to practically drag the 2x4s to get them to the garage. I am looking to salvage this material for use in making floors, tool boxes, cabinets, maybe even woodwork for the house itself if it mills up attractively. The thought of putting the material to visible use is one I like a lot.

My question relates to resawing. The floor and ceiling joists are all 2x8s. But the spans are 16 feet so the floors noticeably deflect with a live load. So, my first thought was to sister on 2x8s to stiffen up the floors. But the thought occurred to me that if I used larger framing members (2x10 or 2x12) I could salvage the oak 2x8s as well as all the studs I've pulled out of the house. Since they are balloon-framed, pulling them out would not be that difficult. The difference in the materials costs to upsize would be under $1000, and I would have enough material to probably case out all the woodwork in the entire house with the reclaimed material... like I said, IF it mills up attractively.

I've never used a bandsaw for this heavy an application. Mostly my bandsaw experience has been little more than hobby-level work. I am looking for advice on a machine that would be able to resaw this material in half so that I can get two boards of standard 1-by material out of it post-sanding. I'd like to do as much of this work as possible myself, though there are a couple mills down Amish-country-way where they will make S4S out of reclaimed stuff for a fee or part of the haul. So, any help is greatly appreciated in helping me understand what type of machine I need to handle this job, and whether it will be worth it in the long run to do it myself. THANKS!!

[John TenEyck]

I would consider hiring a local guy with a portable bandsaw mill, Woodmizer is one brand, normally used to mill logs into lumber to mill your beams. Those machines can handle heavy logs and beams and the bandsaw will leave a very good cut surface. If the mill owner hits nails, however, you are buying him new blades, so you'll want to make sure the beams are nail free.

John

[Steve Demuth]

If it's 200 year old, tight-grained white oak, it's going to be like sawing mild steel. Sawed up some century old barn timbers like that, and they were the hardest damn stuff I've ever encountered.

[Matt Day]

From a fellow NEO'an, where are you located? I'm always looking out for fellow local ww'ers.

I agree that the oak is likely much harder than what you'd buy at the mill. But it'd be very cool to trim out your house in it.

[Tom Hammond]

From a fellow NEO'an, where are you located?

Hi Matt. We're just outside Hartville.

[Art Mann]

My experience has also been that white oak gets harder with age. I salvaged the interior walls of an old barn and it was all clear white oak. This material took on a certain a warm and refined appearance that can't be matched by recently kiln dried lumber. It isn't just the fact that it was old growth. Recently harvested old growth white oak doesn't look like that. If your lumber is the same as what I reclaimed, I would regard it as rare and premium grade.

[Bradley Gray]

+1 on hiring a band mill. Even if you toast some blades they cost about $20 a piece.

If you do go with a vertical saw I would rip the 2 x 8's to 4" or whatever your trim width is before resawing.

[Phillip Gregory]

My Dad and I took down a barn lean-to addition about 20 years ago which had a bunch of rough (large circular blade) sawn native white oak (probably post oak) boards about 2x6 and 2x10 in size which were used as rafters and headers. I have an inexpensive and small steel-framed floor model bandsaw (17" 2 hp Grizzly G0513X2) that is a little slow but with a 12" resaw capacity will resaw boards that size just fine. A larger machine with the capacity for a wider, coarser pitch blade than the 1" x 1.3" pitch blade this machine can handle would do the job more quickly. If you have a bandsaw the size of mine or larger, an 8" or better 12" jointer, and a thickness planer you can do the job yourself. I've milled hundreds of board feet of those old rafters and studs with my relatively modest equipment and done well. A little handheld metal detector is worth its weight in gold, as is a screw (nail) extractor bit for a drill press.

[Mike Cutler]

Tom

A 3hp bandsaw with enough height under the guides would do it. Obviously the more HP, the easier it would be on the machine, all things being equal.
I would only consider a carbide toothed blade as a resaw blade, 2-3 teeth per inch. Lennox has the TriMaster and the Woodmaster. I think Laguna has a resaw blade also.
For a new machine, it will probably cost you $1200-$1500 and up. Look at the Grizzly G0514X as an example.
Add the blade, some dust collection, some outfeed tables, possibly a resaw specific fence, and you're probably at about $2K before the first board comes off the back end of the bandsaw. But,you have total control of the final material piece(s).
If you can easily replace the rough cut 2x8's with 2x10's, or 2x12's, do it!. You will not regret it one day you live in that house. BTDT. ;)

[Paul K. Johnson]

I had to re-read your post. I thought you were saying you had a bandsaw from 1830. :D

Sorry, that's all I have to add to this discussion. :)

[Tom Hammond]

... I would rip the 2 x 8's to 4" or whatever your trim width is before resawing.

Great advice. I was planning on 1x6 (nominal) throughout the entire house. That would leave close to 2.5 inches width for me to also make herringbone flooring for the dining room.


A 3hp bandsaw with enough height under the guides would do it. Obviously the more HP, the easier it would be on the machine, all things being equal. I would only consider a carbide toothed blade as a resaw blade, 2-3 teeth per inch. Lennox has the TriMaster and the Woodmaster. I think Laguna has a resaw blade also. For a new machine, it will probably cost you $1200-$1500 and up. Look at the Grizzly G0514X as an example. Add the blade, some dust collection, some outfeed tables, possibly a resaw specific fence, and you're probably at about $2K before the first board comes off the back end of the bandsaw. But,you have total control of the final material piece(s). If you can easily replace the rough cut 2x8's with 2x10's, or 2x12's, do it!. You will not regret it one day you live in that house. BTDT. ;)

I appreciate the references to individual models. It's something I definitely need to investigate, and soon!

[Malcolm McLeod]

Might search the Dallas Craigslist for:"hitachi resaw bandsaw CB75F NICE"

I have no connection to the listing, just thought it could fit your task. It's in Lampassas, TX per the listing and looks to be in good shape.

[rudy de haas]

The suggestion that you get someone else to do it is a good one - it's not just the bandsaw you need. As Mike points out (above) you will need in and out roller tables and, most importantly, either a helper or a lot of skill and patience in getting these things cut. Taking them to a mill, in contrast, is a one day thing: load em up, get em cut, take them home -bigger gear combined with skilled people mean you write a check but you don't own the machine, you don't take much risk, and you get a guaranteed result.

[Tom Hammond]

It's pretty amazing. I took a piece of 2x4, ripped it on the table saw, gave it a quick sanding and put a little danish oil on it. It's quartersawn white oak... the whole house. I am in a little shock. Now I am definitely reclaiming it, every bit I can.

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[Mike Cutler]

It's pretty amazing. I took a piece of 2x4, ripped it on the table saw, gave it a quick sanding and put a little danish oil on it. It's quartersawn white oak... the whole house. I am in a little shock. Now I am definitely reclaiming it, every bit I can.

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Tom

Nice! Not unexpected for your geographic region though. Stickley used to source their white oak from Ohio for a reason.;)

If you knew what you were going to do with it, and had a definite plan and finite timetable. I would find a mill to do the work.( If it is all like the photo, it would have to be one I could trust. In absence of that though, I know I would invest in the equipment needed to do it myself, and do it as time permits, and projects dictate.
You don't have to go new on machines, or get that Grizzly for that matter. I only included it as an example as a type of machine because Grizzly has a very nice website to "research", if necessary. There are plenty of used machines on the market, bigger, and more powerful, for the same,if not less $$$$.
One more thing;
You need to think about a power feeder for a bandsaw if you're going to be milling a lot of that material. ;)

[Tom Hammond]

Nice! Not unexpected for your geographic region though. Stickley used to source their white oak from Ohio for a reason.
If you knew what you were going to do with it, and had a definite plan and finite timetable. I would find a mill to do the work.

Well, after a delay due to a broken shoulder and torn rotator cuff, we are ready to start salvaging the material. I found a mill who will resaw it for me. But, now I need to invest in a really good metal detector. Any input is greatly appreciated.

[Charles Coolidge]

Well, after a delay due to a broken shoulder and torn rotator cuff, we are ready to start salvaging the material. I found a mill who will resaw it for me. But, now I need to invest in a really good metal detector. Any input is greatly appreciated.

Tom you could buy a metal detector, or you could barter and have someone in the metal detecting hobby come over and scan your boards for you in exchange for permission to detect around your 1830's property. Post that on one of the metal detecting forums (findmall,treasurenet) and you won't have any shortage of volunteers. We use powerful detectors costing from $1,200 to $2,500 that can detect even tiny bits of iron, staples, etc.

Now if you want to buy a metal detector and get into the hobby come speak with me, I'm an expert in this area. Here feast your eyes on treasure

Beach gold!

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1751 Spanish 8 Reale world coin, world between the pillars of Hercules part of a Spanish shipwreck treasure that was hit with a beach replenishment dredge and pump up onto the beach while rebuilding the beaches along the NJ shore. This silver coin is about the size of a silver dollar its large.

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[Jim Becker]

I've been perfectly fine with my "little wizard" detector, but like any small unit, it has limited depth. Many folks look for the more professional wands like you see at airports...they are readily available on the market. They cost a little more but have more power.

[Lee Schierer]

The floor and ceiling joists are all 2x8s. But the spans are 16 feet so the floors noticeably deflect with a live load. So, my first thought was to sister on 2x8s to stiffen up the floors. But the thought occurred to me that if I used larger framing members (2x10 or 2x12) I could salvage the oak 2x8s as well as all the studs I've pulled out of the house. Since they are balloon-framed, pulling them out would not be that difficult. The difference in the materials costs to upsize would be under $1000, and I would have enough material to probably case out all the woodwork in the entire house with the reclaimed material... like I said, IF it mills up attractively.

For a 16 foot span you want at least a 2 x 12 depending upon the species of wood being used or possibly trusses if the load above is heavy. 2 x 8 was definitely too small for that span. Allowable Spans for wood (http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/spancalc)

[Phillip Gregory]

I've been perfectly fine with my "little wizard" detector, but like any small unit, it has limited depth. Many folks look for the more professional wands like you see at airports...they are readily available on the market. They cost a little more but have more power.

I have a "Little Wizard" detector as I use a lot of reclaimed/salvaged oak and it is full of old rusted 18th century cut nails and the tips often break off when the shank of the nail is removed. The Little Wizard will detect a BB-sized piece of old rusty nail to about 1/2-3/4" deep. Deeper than that and it won't. The boards I have are about 2" thick and 6 1/2-10" wide so there if there is a tip at the very center, it might get missed. A carbide-tipped cabinet saw blade will zip through a BB-sized piece of old rusted nail with little more than a very momentary slight change in the sonic frequency of the machine and keep on going like nothing happened. A steel bandsaw blade will hit that BB sized piece, instantly dull, and become unusable.

[Tom Hammond]

For a 16 foot span you want at least a 2 x 12 depending upon the species of wood being used or possibly trusses if the load above is heavy. 2 x 8 was definitely too small for that span.

Thanks, Lee. If you ever get to Hartville, Ohio... bring your hammer!!! lol

[Keith Outten]

Charles are you using something like a Garret AT Pro metal detector to scan logs?