Knob and tote finish

[Nathan Johnson]

I have several Stanley planes in various states of rehabilitation, but I'm a bit frustrated with getting the finish right on the knobs and totes. I find now that I prefer the lower gloss, less artificial feel of something like an oil finish, however I don't like how my Danish oil darkened the rosewood and seemed to hide the grain. I've also tried spray shellac (rattle can) and well, fool me once....

Is there an oil finish available that's almost completely clear so as to preserve the color and grain in the wood? BLO seems to have an orange-y tint to it, but maybe that's my best bet?

What kind of finish does Lee Valley use on their plane totes and knobs? Not sure I'm good enough to reproduce similar results, but I like the look and feel of those as an alternative, assuming they're not an oil finish.

I have much to learn. Typically have always just used stain and brush on poly for everything.

[Jim Koepke]

My preferred treatment of an old tote is to leave the wood unfinished and apply a coat of Howard Feed-N-Wax. It is an oil and wax product that does good for the wood and leaves it looking good.

jtk

[Bill McNiel]

I use Waterlox OSF and then Renaissance Wax, gives a beautiful, silky smooth look and feel that suits me.

[Derek Cohen]

Try Ubeaut Shellawax. Rub it on and then buff it off with a cloth wheel on the drill press. The heat sets if off. I do two coats, all completed in about 5 minutes. This leaves a clear, smooth finish that is very durable.

Shellawax was formulated for turners. It sets with the heat from friction. This is the ideal way to use it (while a piece is spinning). Nevertheless, it sets quickly and hard with a spinning cloth wheel.

This is an Aussie product, available through Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=54188&cat=1,190,42942).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Kurt Cady]

LV uses lacquer.

I've stripped the lacquer and used Tru-Oil on several tools. just a dab or two. Gives me something between the plastic feel of the lacquer and the natural wood feel, closer to the wood feel

[lowell holmes]

I would try Johnson's wax. It makes a nice finish. It is reversible if you don't like it.

[Nathan Johnson]

Thank you for the suggestions. Much appreciated.

[Mike Baker 2]

I am in the same boat, sort of.
I have a Disston handle I stripped the old finish from, and wondering what to use on it. Since it is bare wood, I'm trying to decide what to use.
I also have another Disston that I will most likely not strip, but just use Feed & Wax on it as is.
I would like a darker finish on the one I stripped. Might apply a stain, let dry several days, and then use Feed & Wax on it as well.
My other alternative is Danish Oil.

[steven c newman]

I use a wipe-on, wipe-off of BLO/Stainon bare, NON Rosewood handles.

Rosewood.....everything I have tried on it, for handles, the wood turns black. Not nice when the front knob on a Stanley No.6c turns the same colour as the Japanning.

[Nathan Johnson]

I think I'll try the Howard's first as it's likely the cheapest/easiest option to start with.

[Jim Koepke]

I think I'll try the Howard's first as it's likely the cheapest/easiest option to start with.

I have a rag pretty much saturated with Howard Feed-n-Wax. It is often used to wipe down my planes after use.

jtk

[Allen Jordan]

I use about 2 coats of amber shellac (2# cut, wiped on with a rag), followed by renaissance wax. The wax coat is important for having the tote/knob feel right in your hands.

[Mike Brady]

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee300/finefettle/DSCN1088.jpg (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/finefettle/media/DSCN1088.jpg.html) Rosewood that was used in Stanley plane handles does not need additional oil added as a finish. It only darkens the wood and may not adhere well. The original finish is a form of shellac that adds luster without darkening the rosewood. When I finish rosewood handles I use BullsEye spray shellac as a base coat, and about 15 minutes later spray Watco satin luster lacquer from a spray can; 2-3 light coats. These finishes will be dry to the touch in less than an hour, for both; and are completely compatible.

[Nathan Johnson]

Those look very nice, Mike. I may revisit the spray shellac in the future. Spray finish is not a skill I have, so maybe I'll do some practicing and come back to it.
Thanks for the photo - something to strive for.

[Mike Brady]

Oil on rosewood is going to darken and stay that way. Rosewood is quite oily already, so you should instead seal bare rosewood with shellac and go with that as your finish ; or you can apply satin lacquer over the shellac for durability and a soft sheen.
Here are some photos of that combination on some Stanley handles:http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee300/finefettle/DSCN1088.jpg (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/finefettle/media/DSCN1088.jpg.html)

The shellac and lacquer are both from spray cans and dry in less than an hour (Zinnser spray shellac and Watco spray satin lacquer).

[Patrick Chase]

I have several Stanley planes in various states of rehabilitation, but I'm a bit frustrated with getting the finish right on the knobs and totes. I find now that I prefer the lower gloss, less artificial feel of something like an oil finish, however I don't like how my Danish oil darkened the rosewood and seemed to hide the grain. I've also tried spray shellac (rattle can) and well, fool me once....

Is there an oil finish available that's almost completely clear so as to preserve the color and grain in the wood? BLO seems to have an orange-y tint to it, but maybe that's my best bet?

I'm surprised that nobody else has suggested pure Tung oil (the real deal, not the multitude of "Tung Oil" and "Danish Oil" finishes on the market that contain nothing of the sort). It ticks off all of your boxes: It's a polymerizing oil like BLO, but darkens and colors significantly less. The only catch is that it takes ~weeks to cure.

[Nathan Johnson]

Thanks, Patrick. I'll have to look into that also. The curing time isn't much of an issue given my lack of shop time these days.

[Derek Cohen]

Since no one has commented, and because the results are so superior, I am going to repeat my recommendation for Ubeaut Shellawax. Get it from Lee Valley. It will not darken the wood, add clarity like shellac always does, and has all the durability you would wish. Chris Vesper uses it as well.

Here is a Stanley #3 that I renovated several years ago. The wood was dark to start, but you can still see the grain and fine colour variations through it ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/Bobs%20Stanley/BobsStanley2_zpsbbc0c785.jpg

Amd the same plane photographed a few weeks ago, having been used regularly in the years between ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/Bobs%20Stanley/Stanley-Clifton_zpsqyjdthwd.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Stew Denton]

Derek,

I have to say, that stuff looks like it has stood up extremely well. It looks good too.

Stew

[Nathan Johnson]

Derek, I do appreciate the suggestion and didn't mean to appear to ignore it. I don't currently own a suitable tool to turn a buffing wheel, but I agree that I like the appearance of that finish.

[Patrick Chase]

Since no one has commented, and because the results are so superior, I am going to repeat my recommendation for Ubeaut Shellawax. Get it from Lee Valley. It will not darken the wood, add clarity like shellac always does, and has all the durability you would wish. Chris Vesper uses it as well.

I've experimented with it and it's a beautiful finish as you say. I haven't used it long enough to get a sense of durability, but I imagine it will do at least as well as any other "no-/low-build" finish. As a shellac/wax blend it obviously can't compete with high-build varnishes for durability, but that's not what the OP wants anyway so it's a nonissue. One obvious concern would be heat tolerance btw.

In any case, the reason I didn't second your recommendation here is because the OP specifically said that he liked the look of an oil finish, but wanted something that discolored less. Shellawax doesn't really seem to fit that bill, as it modifies the surface sheen significantly more than oil.

[Derek Cohen]

Patrick, you can remove the sheen with a rub of 0000 steel wool.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Brady]

I have used Shellawax on pens and found that it wore off rather quickly. That might not be a bad thing on restored plane handles since it provides another sort of patina to go along with that of the metal parts of the plane. There is a sort of continuum of of preferences for how a "restored" plane should look; ranging from "don't disturb the DNA left behind by the original owner", to "let's put lipstick on this pig and call it beautiful". My preference is to achieve no better than new condition on any tool, but I strive on older tools (prewar) to have them look just well cared-for. Shellawax fits well into the latter group.

[Nathan Johnson]

Figured I would post an update.

I appreciate all the suggestions, but I decided to try Jim's suggestion of Feed n Wax first since it was the cheapest/easiest to start with. Sanded to 220, then liberally applied multiple "coats" until it wouldn't dry any longer and some residual wetness remained. (Typically 3 to 5 applications.) Wiped it with a cotton t-shirt.

There's no real shine to it. It's a very matte finish, but I'll be darned if they're not the softest, most comfortable feeling handles I've got on anything. I fall in love with how they feel every time I pick one up, and sometimes I just touch them because I like it. I'll just keep a rag around to freshen them up as needed. Thanks, Jim.

[Matthew Hutchinson477]

I've used both tung oil and Waterlox Original on a number of handles/totes/knobs. They do darken the wood a little bit but not nearly as much as linseed oil. The waterlox is definitely more durable, and in light coats doesn't feel plastic-y or anything. I lean more towards tung oil most of the time now, though--it's easier to apply and the extra durability of Waterlox isn't necessary on most of my tool handles. I also have a tote and knob that I sanded to 600 grit and just waxed. In my opinion it feels and looks the best. Nothing seems to make grain pop like shellac though, if that's what you want.

[Mark Gibney]

Some good suggestions on this thread that I want to try out myself.

I tried to refinish the totes on several planes with the poly / BLO mix I use on furniture, and it just wouldn't take - I guess due to rosewood being oily, as a poster above pointed out.

[Rob Moore]

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee300/finefettle/DSCN1088.jpg (http://s234.photobucket.com/user/finefettle/media/DSCN1088.jpg.html) Rosewood that was used in Stanley plane handles does not need additional oil added as a finish. It only darkens the wood and may not adhere well. The original finish is a form of shellac that adds luster without darkening the rosewood. When I finish rosewood handles I use BullsEye spray shellac as a base coat, and about 15 minutes later spray Watco satin luster lacquer from a spray can; 2-3 light coats. These finishes will be dry to the touch in less than an hour, for both; and are completely compatible.
Resurrecting an old thread here. I have a few older Stanley planes I'm refurbishing (and one Sargent) and based on my reading here and elsewhere I'm pretty sure the knobs and totes are rosewood. After scraping and sanding one of the knobs I sprayed a few coats of BullsEye shellac and it looks quite nice. I was wondering how much shellac you put on and whether you did anything to the knob before spraying the Watco (e.g. do you buff at all with 0000 steel wool or other?). Also, I have both satin and semi gloss Watco spray lacquer and was wondering if the original finishes were more shiny than what one would get with satin. If I sprayed semi-gloss first and then wanted it flatter, would spraying a few coats of satin do that? Thanks.

[Rob Luter]

When I was refurbing old Stanleys I’d sand the knob and tote to remove the original finish. The next step was soaking in Watco Danish oil. After a three day cure I’d scuff with a Scotchbrite pad and spray with gloss lacquer. No complaints.

[Rob Moore]

When I was refurbing old Stanleys I’d sand the knob and tote to remove the original finish. The next step was soaking in Watco Danish oil. After a three day cure I’d scuff with a Scotchbrite pad and spray with gloss lacquer. No complaints.
Thanks but I’m following Mike Brady’s approach of shellac then lacquer based on posts here as well as several others. Oil based finishes tend to be too dark for rosewood based on much feedback.

[Cameron Wood]

I use Tung oil on all tool handles- it's already there on a rag after putting finish on a project and relatively low toxicity.

[Doug Trembath]

As a turner, I can verify Derek's suggestion of the Shellawax... I use it on every plane in my collection. I happen to have an additional benefit, however, in that I have an advanced buffing system that runs on my lathe, and makes the Shellawax look simply marvelous as well as adding a slick but not slippery surface so your feel of the wood on your plane is like no other. Everyone I know that uses it raves,,,

[Jim Koepke]

As a turner, I can verify Derek's suggestion of the Shellawax...
Everyone I know that uses it raves,,,

These endorsements led me to look up Shellawax. All was good until at the bottom of the Lee Valley page for the product was this:


Not available for shipment to California, Colorado, Connecticut, District of Columbia, Maine, Minnesota, Oregon, Rhode Island, Vermont or Washington.

Anyone have any ideas on why that may be?

jtk

[Jimmy Harris]

These endorsements led me to look up Shellawax. All was good until at the bottom of the Lee Valley page for the product was this:



Anyone have any ideas on why that may be?

jtk
I can't say for sure. But a quick glance at the MSDS doesn't show anything suspicious, other than extreme flammability (class 3). So there might be special regulations in those states with transporting materials like that that would significantly increase the cost or complexity to comply with. So rather than go through that hassle, they just avoid it all together.

For example, it has a flash point of 23° C. That's really, really low.

But that's just my theory. You could call them to find out.

[mike stenson]

23ºc, that's totally in my comfort zone.

My shop is hotter, for about 9 months of the year.

[Jimmy Harris]

Some good suggestions on this thread that I want to try out myself.

I tried to refinish the totes on several planes with the poly / BLO mix I use on furniture, and it just wouldn't take - I guess due to rosewood being oily, as a poster above pointed out.

You could try Watco's Teak Oil. It works pretty well on oily or dense woods. Or add a bunch of solvent (like around 1/3rd to 1/2) to your poly/BLO mixture, to thin it out so it can absorb easier. And really clean the wood with some naphtha or mineral spirits right before applying, so help remove some of that natural oil from the surface.

The Howard's Feed N Wax is a good product. But it's not very protective. It's mostly just a solvent and wax, with mostly paraffin, and a little bees, and carnauba. There's some orange oil in there too. The solvent thins the wax out to make it absorb deeper into the wood, so it's a little different from regular wax. But it doesn't provide much protection other than a little moisture resistance. But if that's what you're looking for, then it is great for that.

[Rafael Herrera]

Rosewood can be burnished with a buffer wheel and polishing compound. A varnish is not necessary if one goes that route.

[Charles Edward]

Strip them then wax only. Whatever you use on the furniture you make is fine. Don't overthink it.

[steven c newman]

Whatever you do use..remember this...those handles will see a lot of use...from Sweaty, SALTY hands....so the finish you use will have to stand up to that.