Agazzani Bandsaw B20 Owners - throat plate modification

[Jeff Ranck]

So I purchased an Agazzani B20 from Jesse at Eagle Tools a long while ago (before the company went bankrupt). The throat plate broke during a sawing operation when an offset got stuck in the space between the blade and the edge of the throat plate. In most bandsaws, the throat plate is simple, and the cast iron rests are close to the top of the table, so that a simple insert works.

In the Agazzani, the cast iron rests are somewhere around 1.5-2 inches below the table and the throat plates have small adjustment screws on the corners to level the throat plate. Bottom line, this isn't s simple piece of plastic that, when it breaks, you just cut a new one and keep going.

I've contacted Eagle Tools a few times and no joy for just a simple throat plate. I don't want to keep using the saw with a broken throat plate due to safety reasons. I can't seem to get a replacement part. So that leaves either modifying the cast iron rests to bring them closer to the table so I can use a simple plastic insert or trying to create my own version of a throat plate with long extensions at the corners to engage the rests.

Anyone have this issue? If so how did you solve it. I have a few ideas, but before I go reinventing the wheel, I thought I'd ask if any other B20 owners have run across a similar problem.

[Patrick McCarthy]

Also a B 20 owner with a beat-up insert, with no ideas but interested in seeing responses. My memory is not what I claim it once was, but I think one of the moderators (Bruce Page perhaps) did an ELOQUENT brass insert for a different bandsaw . . . . but I have no metal working tools nor, sadly, skills . . . . None-the-less, his is elegant.

[Andrew Hughes]

I have the B 20/20 I think it's the same plate.Heres my replacements out of fir.

[Joe Jensen]

My Felder FB540 takes the same plastic insert. You can buy from Felder if you don't want to make one. BTW, I don't think the dust collection holes do much with my setup.

[Joe Calhoon]

Here is a 2 piece wood insert from a German safety manual. My Agazz came with the plastic one and lasted about a month. I find the holes help a little when resawing.
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Here is a similar one on a Hema saw. If you zoom in you can see the insert needs changed.
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[Matthew Hills]

If you want a stopgap for general purpose bandsaw work, you can do a stopped cut with a sheet of mdf or plywood and use that as your interim table with zero-clearance insert. (obviously has some issues if you need to use a fence or miter slot)

Matt

[Richard Link]

A throat plate like this would be an easy thing to 3D print and you could make as many as you wanted should it become damaged. To do so, we would simply need either a series of measurements and photos or an old engineering diagram from Agazz to build the 3d model. Or maybe just buy the Felder insert plate..... I have some Felder equipment and I suspect they consider a new insert quite dear...

Rick

[Jim Becker]

My thoughts immediately went to something like Andrew shows up above. These thicker inserts are kinda how certain Euro design machines do it for the table insert...

[Bill Dufour]

I suggest make one from wood as show but make it about 1/4" short. Them make a top plate 1/4 thick with eight holes. four screwdriver clearance holes for the adjusting screws, and four more countersunk holes for screws to hold it to the base.
Bill

[Bruce Page]

Also a B 20 owner with a beat-up insert, with no ideas but interested in seeing responses. My memory is not what I claim it once was, but I think one of the moderators (Bruce Page perhaps) did an ELOQUENT brass insert for a different bandsaw . . . . but I have no metal working tools nor, sadly, skills . . . . None-the-less, his is elegant.
Patrick, thank you for the kind words. My MiniMax fix is still going strong.

[Jeff Ranck]

It looks like you have some brads or something on the "feet" of the throat plate. Are those for leveling? Pound them in until things are level?

[Joe Calhoon]

In that picture I believe it is the end of his adjustment screws that come from the top.
You need adjustment with the Agazzani as the casting is uneven. Here is how I did mine. Adjusting screws are on the bottom. The replaceable insert is nice so you do not have to remake the whole plate every time it gets worn.

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[Jim Becker]

Joe, that's a really nice execution of this concept...especially the removable center section that can be replaced over time. Bravo!

[Joe Calhoon]

Jim, it's easy to make and way better than the plastic one that came with the machine. In the picture it looks like I laminated the lips on. I had just found a piece of white oak in my scrap bin and it was laminated. I milled a piece long enough to work with and put the plow in with the shaper. Then ran some lengths of the insert and cut them to length. It only takes seconds to replace the insert.

[Jeff Ranck]

Joe:

Love the execution on that one. Do the holes add much to the dust extraction (which is what I presume they are for).

Jeff.

[Joe Calhoon]

Helps slightly on resawing where dust builds up and falls off the board as it is going through. I have good dust collection on the Agazzani. My Hema saw is not connected to good DC yet and I noticed the holes do not do much on that one.

[Pat Scott]

In that picture I believe it is the end of his adjustment screws that come from the top.
You need adjustment with the Agazzani as the casting is uneven. Here is how I did mine. Adjusting screws are on the bottom. The replaceable insert is nice so you do not have to remake the whole plate every time it gets worn.

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Sorry I'm coming in late on this post. How do you keep the center (replaceable) section in place?

[Joe Calhoon]

It cannot go anywhere. It is snug (not tight) in the groove and fairly tight to the castings at the end.

I was looking at my pictures, it looks as if I laminated the bottoms on. I had a length of scrap white oak that was a 2 piece lamination and the bottom of the groove just by chance hit on the lamination. I milled a piece long enough to put the groove in safely on the shaper and cut them to length after.