Do you use your dovetail jig?

[lowell holmes]

I have one and I do not remember the last time I used it. It is a 24" Leigh, at least 15 years old.
It sits under a bench drawing dust.

Just curious if I am the only one. If I need a dovetailed drawer, I cut them by hand.
It is interesting how your needs change.

[Dave Richards]

That's a good question. I use mine for a lot things other than dovetails. Of course there a sliding dovetails, mortises, tenons, dowel making, shutter slat sockets, and all sorts of other router-based stuff. A couple of weeks ago I used it to modify the radio panel from my sailboat to take the new VHF radio. I also used it to modify the mounting bracket for said radio.

[Bill McNiel]

I have not used mine in so long I don't know where it is. For commercial cabinets clients like the domino drawer and its lower cost. For furniture I hand cut/chop/fit.

[Todd Zucker]

I have a Rockler jig that I used a couple of times, and the dovetailed drawers looked decent (maybe a little too uniform) and fit great.

I then tried doing a few by hand with a Japanese saw and some-not-so sharp chisels. The first efforts looked kinda terrible, but the process was more satisfying, and I haven't used the Rockler jig since.
Doing them by hand actually started me down the neander path, whereas before then everything was track saw, MFT, router and band saw. I have since built a proper workbench with vises, picked up a few more chisels and a Western dovetail saw, and right now am trying to get better at sharpening (while also trying to resist picking up the sharpening fetish).

For me, it is strictly a hobby, so I don't really have deadlines for projects (and haven't completed too many to date), so I am content to work slowly and try to improve my hand tool skills. But, I will keep the Rockler jig just in case I decide to do a big cabinet project with lots of drawers at some point.

[Martin Wasner]

Only once since getting an automatic dovetailer.

[Lee Schierer]

I use mine whenever I build drawers.

[Erik Christensen]

so far my drawers have all been for cabinets - shop, kitchens, office etc - too many at once to try to cut dovetails by hand when I really suck at it

so yah - my leigh d4r gets used every time i need drawers - tried a set with just dominos once and decided that the leigh dovetails were much easier to assemble for a dead square drawer

YMMV

[John Piwaron]

yup. I've got a Leigh D4. I use it when the project requires dovetails.

[steve morris6]

leigh suoer 12 for me and yes i use it regularly

drawer boxes, boxes, tea trays, even done some angled dt's with it, shaker steps and tea trays with angled sides

[Doug Hepler]

Lowell,

YES. I like box joints. I did not own a DT jig until I downsized and gave up my table saw. Without a table saw, my DT jig (PC 4200) is my "only" way to cut box joints. If I have many drawers or boxes I use it to cut DT. It basically does a better job than I can at well-fitting DT, and its much faster. The even spacing of 1/2" DT seems only to bother other craftsmen, never a client. For my best furniture work I cut wider and fewer DT by hand. Also, since I gave up my TS I have become adept at lock miter joints cut on a router table. These make very strong and attractive joints for drawers and boxes.

Doug

[Mike Henderson]

I had a dovetail jig but found I never used it. I sold it.

Mike

[glenn bradley]

I had a Rockler. Made a test box and then let it collect dust for years. Wasn't worth the cost of shipping to anyone who was interested. It went to the Goodwill.

[Jim Becker]

I don't use mine with any frequency, but there are times when it's "the right tool for the job"...so I'm glad I own it. (Leigh)

[Pat Barry]

I also have a Roxkler half blind dovetail jig ~ 10 years or so. I still use it although I am transitioning to hand cut dovetails. Sometimes though, the jig is the best solution.

[Edwin Santos]

Of course I use my dovetail jig, when it is the right tool for the job at hand. For me cutting dovetails by hand is more enjoyable and opens up certain design options. However, when I have a job that requires a lot of drawers, I turn to the router jig and it is a real life saver. A short while ago I did a job requiring 25 dovetail drawers made out of pre-finished Baltic Birch. It would not be realistic to do such a job any way other than a router jig or outsourcing (for me at least). Not sure I've answered you very well, maybe I don't understand your question.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have made a couple with an Incra positioner, but have not had the time to work with it very much, as my workshop time has been limited.

Doc

[Ole Anderson]

I use my Leigh every few years when I need to do drawers. I also used it on a 16" high toy box years ago.

[jack duren]

Sold the Leigh and kept the Omnijig so I would have one when I needed it..

[Jon Grider]

I use mine for uniform multiple drawer cabinet jobs that require fast and strong joints.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

No.

I have purchased one Porter Cable dovetail jig 15 years ago... I used it just for a single small project. Lap joint is good enough for me... I have 25 year old drawers perfect even after a lot o abuse.

[Ellery Becnel]

I have a few. Not any high end fixtures. They work. When I need them, they are there for me.

[Jim Dwight]

I have a HF dovetail jig with a Grizzly template guide mounted on a little box shaped stand with a drawer to store setup jigs and wrenches for adjustments. I use it for all nicer drawers, furniture, built in cabinets - sometimes and shop drawers, sometimes. When I use it, I do fronts and backs, it takes very little additional time. I do not have nearly enough patience to cut them by hand.

I am far from a purist. I have shop drawers built with pocket screws too. And drawers for the house that are just glued and stapled together. But when I want a nicer joint, I use my dovetail jig. I use it on solid wood and good plywood (like Baltic birch). For lesser materials, I use a lesser joint.

[Ralph Okonieski]

Yes, I use my Leigh when drawers are part of the build. Use it for both through and half-blind.

[Keith Pitman]

I had a Leigh jig (D4) for years and used it, but I just sold it. I found I like cutting dovetails by hand. Every time I used the Leigh jig, I had to go back to the manual and re-educate myself. Cutting by hand is all muscle memory and the more you do it, the better you get.

[Ron Kellison]

I have a D1600. It's set up perfectly, I cut a couple trial joints with it to get everything perfectly aligned. The Porter-Cable router still has that dovetail bit installed and stored with the bit in a foam cup to hold the setting for 1/2" stock and the D1600 has been hanging on my shop wall for the past 8 years. It's on the list to be sold when I retire (for the 3rd time!) and sell off all the stuff I don't use. It's going to be a long list as I've been collecting good tools for over 40 years!

[Eric Keller]

I had a PC that I bought with a batch of other tools. Sold it after not using it for over a decade. I think it was used by my friend on one project. Hopefully it's being used by its new owner.

My dad used his for lots of projects. Pretty sure it was a craftsman. I hated the sound of his router, just excruciating.

[Ben Rivel]

Well I doubt Ill ever have an interest in cutting them by hand, and I cant see myself ever needing to make a drawer or box deeper then 12" so I was planning on getting the 12" Leigh jig just to have around when I do make drawers.

[Jim Andrew]

I bought a Leigh D4 jig, but found I can make sliding dovetail joints on my router table. Eliminates having a double board on the front of my drawers, and they are strong.

[Dave Cav]

I have a Keller jig and I use it all the time, at least whenever I make drawers. It's fast, and doesn't require any setup. I have a Leigh jig I got a couple of years ago as part of a purchase involving a router I was interested in. It's probably the most elaborate thing I have ever seen, and the manual is very long, extensive and detailed. I think I've used it once.

[Bradley Gray]

I have a Keller jig also. I use it mostly for drawers - love the simplicity of no adjustments.

[Tom Bain]

Sparingly use my D4, which I got a good deal on used. It's definitely a nice to have, as others say, when tackling a lot of cabinet drawers.

[Cary Falk]

I had the 12" Porter Cable. I used the heck out of it. Sold it 4 years ago when I got a good deal on a Leigh D4R. I have used it yet. I a going to help a friend make kitchen cabinets so it will get used soon. It is one of those tools that sits on the shelf a lot of the time but when you need it, you need it.

[Robert Engel]

Sold it years ago. Didn't like all the fiddling/noise/dust + the artificial look.

Hybrid ww'er, with much bigger focus on hand work nowadays.

Small jobs I do them by hand.

Larger jobs I cut the tails using tablesaw with 7° ground blade and jig.
Remove waste with trim router and 1/8" bit.

[Dan T Jones]

I'm about to try out the Mark Duginske method on the band saw. Seems more straight forward than the jig. I may be selling a D4 and an Akeda.
Dan

[lowell holmes]

These responses are well and good, but don't forget that it is important to have at least one of each kind of tool whether it is used or not.

[Dave Richards]

These responses are well and good, but don't forget that it is important to have at least one of each kind of tool whether it is used or not.

Where's the "Like" button?

[Jim Becker]

Where's the "Like" button?
In the new software that SMC will migrate to, hopefully soon. :D In the mean time, you'll just have to type a post that has the word in it... ;)

[Leo Graywacz]

I use to use it all the time. It's painful because the bits would break often enough because I use baltic birch for my drawer boxes which is pretty abrasive to the small 1/4" shank 14º bit. Just recently got a Grizzly G0611X dovetail machine and after the initial painful setup I've got it tuned in pretty good. Making dovetail drawers is no longer a painful process. Just one that you do.

http://www.fototime.com/3009B52AE3A5191/orig.jpg

[Martin Wasner]

(snip) after the initial painful setup....

You ain't kidding. I went through four rounds of setup before I got my Cantek JDT 75 dialed in. The final product I ended up taking the uhmw backers to the jointer, then used a scrap of Baltic birch to butt both of the stops up against at once. I don't know why, but for me that was the ticket for getting the stops setup really well. I think they ended up 17" wide. It was almost impossible for me to bump one stop a few thousands to get it set. The manual was horrific to boot.

I also tried every single bit available, the solid carbide bits from Cantek and the slowest travel speed worked the best for cut quality. It's still not outstanding, but it's pretty decent. I regret not planning ahead enough to afford a cnc dovetailer

[Leo Graywacz]

I'm using the bit that came with the Grizzly machine and I'm pretty happy with it. I'm also climb cutting the dovetails which improved the quality substantially. Makes it a little harder to move the machine because it does want to climb. But I have no complaints about how it routs. I bought one of the Omec A23 750 bits because someone who owned the Grizzly was having issues with the bits snapping in hard maple and said this bit solve the problem. So that is my extra bit in case it breaks or goes out for sharpening.

[BOB OLINGER]

I purchased the Porter Cable about a year or so ago to make kitchen cabinet drawers. Once I got it dialed in , worked great; absolutely no regrets. I was surprised how fast you can make drawers using it. I have another 15-20 drawers to make this fall, so I'll use it again. As a previous post said, it's one of those tools that if you need it, you need.

[Martin Wasner]

I'm using the bit that came with the Grizzly machine and I'm pretty happy with it. I'm also climb cutting the dovetails which improved the quality substantially. Makes it a little harder to move the machine because it does want to climb. But I have no complaints about how it routs. I bought one of the Omec A23 750 bits because someone who owned the Grizzly was having issues with the bits snapping in hard maple and said this bit solve the problem. So that is my extra bit in case it breaks or goes out for sharpening.

I don't have the option to climb cut unfortunately. Buy more bits. One snaps and you don't have a spare and things HAVE to be done today, sucks.

I have them sharpened once, then pitch them. I did that when I was using the router too. A tiny bit of carbide meant going really deep and messing with my side lengths.