Pneumatic clamps

[Keith Hall]

I have about thirty raised panel doors to make. They are of various sizes. I am considering making a pueumatic clamp table. Has anyone undertaken this project before and if so, what were your results? Any suggestions of this or an alternate solution will be appreciated. Thanks, Keith.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Keith, I haven't ever done it, but I would be interested in seeing yours when it is done!

[Larry Crim]

I have seen one but not sure if it was the same as you are in need of, It was many years ago in a counter top fabrication shop I worked in part time. They used it for clamping edges to the sides of some of the tops. It was very simple but I think it was custom made. I will try to describe it as best as I can, It was simply a flat surface with stationary blocks at one side and then on the other was a sliding block that would be moved up against the glued edge strip and basically it was a sliding block sandwiched between two flat metel plates and there was a bladder trapped behind it, when inflated it would push the sliding block out against the glued edge and trap the work peice in the clamp, the more air the more pressure was applied, Although in this shop they used a hot glue and the clamping only needed to be momentary till the glue cooled about 2 minutes, not sure how it would work for longer uses.
Pat

[Dave Richards]

I used one years ago in a picture framing shop. It was set up for clamping mitered corners and what quite slick. There was a foot pedal to activate it. step on the front, the clamps closed, push on the back and they opened. The frame was only clamped long enough to smoosh the glue and shoot in a couple of nails with a gun. Then opened and on to the next corner.

If you are planning to pin the frames somehow so the clamping would only need to be temporary, I could see this being a good way to go.

If on the other hand, you plan to leave the doors clamped until the glue sets, I think you'd be better off with some sort of panels and wedges that could be stacked.

[Jim Becker]

The Kreg jig folks had a bunch of pneumatic clamping stuff in their lines. My concern with this for "only" 30 doors is the fact that they are different sizes...you'll spend a bit more time building the clamping system since it needs to be flexible in that respect.

[Dave Richards]

You might build something like this jig. It was designed by a friend of mine in Nebraska. Mine would be too small for kitchen cabinet doors but would work on smaller ones. I use it mostly for edge gluing for panels.
http://hamiltonwoodworks.com/drichards/Misc/clamping.GIF

[Erik Stol]

Hi Keith,

Her's a sample of a machine that is used by many small contractors and doorframe factories in The Netherlands. Maybe this will help you out a bit.

The table is moreless a giant pegboard out of steel. The plate itself is aprox 1/2 inch thickness, with a steel frame for stifness. Pneumatic plunges are used to press the piec together. It works really great. I saw and used it one day at a friend of mine, who's father is a contractor.
25111

25112
Succes,

Erik Stol
The Netherlands

[Justin Ludwig]

Hi Keith,

Her's a sample of a machine that is used by many small contractors and doorframe factories in The Netherlands. Maybe this will help you out a bit.

The table is moreless a giant pegboard out of steel. The plate itself is aprox 1/2 inch thickness, with a steel frame for stifness. Pneumatic plunges are used to press the piec together. It works really great. I saw and used it one day at a friend of mine, who's father is a contractor.
25111

25112
Succes,

Erik Stol
The Netherlands

Knock the dust off this post! Does anyone know what the metal "pegboard" used for this application is actually called? I'm going to build a smaller version of this table, but "metal pegboard" searches are coming up with thin sheets and small holed variations. Also, a trusted source or manufacturer of pneumatic clamps/pistons?

Thanks!

[Brian Backner]

Don't know about a source for steel pegboard, but Bimba is one of THE sources for pneumatic cylinders. I have over 60 of them in use for all sorts of things and I've never had one fail. Bimba has been around forever and repair/replacement parts are available for virtually every cylinder they've ever produced. Go to their main website for the catalogs; you can pick them up fairly inexpensively on evilBay.

[Loren Woirhaye]

I assume you''l want the device to square the doors. I don't think it's worth the effort to build such a rig for 30 doors, but if you think it sounds like fun give it a go. You'll need to make sure the clamp pads are at a right angle to the clamp table and cannot flex out of alignment when they are operated.

[Justin Ludwig]

Loren, this thread is 8 years old and I'm not the OP. I'm definitely making more than 30 doors. I have 95 in the works right now. Those are going together the old fashioned way; squaring jig, clamps and pin nails. My grip is strong enough to squeeze a bugger out of George Washington's nose after all the clamp turning.

Brian, thanks for the info. I'll look'm up.

[Mark Bolton]

Justin, why dont you search some of the machinery exchanges for a ritter table. You could likely find one in the 2-3k range. I highly doubt you could build a table for that given the likelihood of having to have the metal custom punched (surely what the manufactures are doing as I highly doubt its off the shelf) and having to adapt it to some commercially available cylinders. If you were making it all from scratch with the valving, foot and hand controls, and the like, I'd think it'd be far cheaper to buy a used one.

The commercial machines allow for tripping all the cylinders via foot pedal or actuating individuals by hand on the cylinder itself, and so on. Very handy.

Not sure if your 90 odd doors are for your own kitchen or your building cabs for a living but I dont think a table would be worth it even for 90 doors. We make more than that and dont run a clamp table but rather use a somewhat crude face-frame/door table that hangs on the wall and use conventional clamps. Its no where as nice as a pneumatic table but even doing this for a living Ive not found the need or spare cash to jump on a ritter or equivalent table.

[Jeff Duncan]

Justin, just as an FYI make sure your seated if you do get a price for one of those tables....they're not what you'd call cheap:eek: There's a shop I sometimes have make up moldings for me that has one, I think it's probably some kind of stainless steel as it has no rust spots whatsoever on it. Someone once told me how much it cost and unfortunately I've long forgotten. I just remember when they told me being shocked by it! I'd guess it's a custom thing and not something you could find off-the-shelf, but that's just a guess. Of course if you really needed one you could call some steel fabrication shops and get prices.

good luck,
JeffD

[Perry Holbrook]

Those clamp tables come up from time to time on IRS, the auction site for woodworking machines. I just missed one last month.

Perry

[Mark Bolton]

Justin, just as an FYI make sure your seated if you do get a price for one of those tables....they're not what you'd call cheap:eek: There's a shop I sometimes have make up moldings for me that has one, I think it's probably some kind of stainless steel as it has no rust spots whatsoever on it. Someone once told me how much it cost and unfortunately I've long forgotten. I just remember when they told me being shocked by it! I'd guess it's a custom thing and not something you could find off-the-shelf, but that's just a guess. Of course if you really needed one you could call some steel fabrication shops and get prices.

good luck,
JeffD


Jeff,
I think the clamps like the ritter are in the 10-12k range new, but they often are on the machinery exchange for 3k depending on # of clamps and condition

[Stephen Cherry]

Kansas city for 1200- moderators- I hope this is OK, just trying to help

Ritter door clamping tablehttp://images.craigslist.org/00v0v_cxsJ1yzzque_600x450.jpg

[Justin Ludwig]

I don't have any data yet on the cost of building one. A chap that lived 40 minutes south of me and closed up his shop had a custom door clamping table that looks very similar to the pic Stephen just posted, but his lay flat and had 4 pistons. He told me he built it himself (he didn't seem like one to fib) but didn't mention cost.

I've been perusing the auctions sites. It stinks that I live next to nowhere! Dallas in 5hrs, Shreveport 4hrs, Little 2.5hrs (but yields little results). Hopefully I can find a steal of a deal and justify shipping it.

A clamping table is just one of a long list of things I'm trying to acquire. #1 on the list, an employee. Building 90 lnft of beaded inset cabinets that have applied molding doors takes a while by oneself (but perfectly timed to start the next job).

[Jeff Duncan]

Jeff,
I think the clamps like the ritter are in the 10-12k range new, but they often are on the machinery exchange for 3k depending on # of clamps and condition

I should have mentioned it would depend on size as well, that's my bad:o The one I saw locally is something like 8' tall by maybe 14' long! Makes the Ritter look puny:eek: Of course it's set up only say 20' or so from the $65k Martin shaper, so they made some money at some point along the way;)

JeffD

[Mark Bolton]

I should have mentioned it would depend on size as well, that's my bad:o The one I saw locally is something like 8' tall by maybe 14' long! Makes the Ritter look puny:eek: Of course it's set up only say 20' or so from the $65k Martin shaper, so they made some money at some point along the way;)

JeffD

Yeah,.. That would be heaven (the Martin). I can't imagine the quantity and caliber of work it would take to put one of those on the floor.

[Mel Fulks]

I've used the air powered clamps and some old ones that had to be tightened by turning a wheel . Most of the time when we pinned and immediately removed ,doors would spring a little out of square ,often requiring bar clamps be applied for a while on an angle.I don't see the auto clamps as especially useful without "radio curing " the glue .

[Mark Bolton]

I would agree Mel. Unless everything is dead perfect clamping, pinning, and immediately taking them out can be sketchy. A good technique we use is to build one door on the left of the clamp, then the next on the right. This gives the door several minutes in the clamps which helps a lot. Of course a rotating clamp holding several doors at a time would be nice too if you had the cash and space.

[David Hawkins]

I have used this machine and it is very handy. Setups are fast and simple. Ideal if you are going to do production work with small runs and lots of variations.

[David L Morse]

Here's one in Kentucky: http://www.irsauctions.com/popups/bidders_paddle.asp?lot=281715&auction=JI3QQK7Q022FGHO288HPC2TPRTKNSL&id=17510

[Justin Ludwig]

I give the doors a dirty look after I take them off the table. I had one today spring 1/16" out of square. After slapping it around and setting it in the corner for a timeout, the other doors behaved rather well.

[David Hawkins]

I just saw one sell last August w/8 clamps for $125 at a failed furniture shop auction...just gotta be in the right place etc.

[Mel Fulks]

My preferred way is just to use two bar clamps on each door and leave them .With 6 or 8 clamps all can stay long enough by cycling . Not trying to change anyone's mind , just help in setting priorities for equipment purchases. I've worked for places where owner listened to a salesman and decided the auto clamps were a magical must . Then found out that wasn't true.

[Mike Cozad]

MSC, Grainger, and McMaster-Carr all carry "square pegboard". I buy it all the time for shadow boards on the shop floor at work....



Knock the dust off this post! Does anyone know what the metal "pegboard" used for this application is actually called? I'm going to build a smaller version of this table, but "metal pegboard" searches are coming up with thin sheets and small holed variations. Also, a trusted source or manufacturer of pneumatic clamps/pistons?

Thanks!

[Jeff Duncan]

My preferred way is just to use two bar clamps on each door and leave them .With 6 or 8 clamps all can stay long enough by cycling . Not trying to change anyone's mind , just help in setting priorities for equipment purchases. I've worked for places where owner listened to a salesman and decided the auto clamps were a magical must . Then found out that wasn't true.

I do the same as Mel, with a few extra clamps. I work in batches of 8 or so. By the time I've clamped up 8 doors the first ones are ready to come out. I can see the advantage in clamping systems, I just don't do anywhere near the volume to justify the floor space or expense;)

Those rotary clamping setups usually go for scrap at auction! You have to have a lot of real estate and high ceilings to make one work.

JeffD

[Mel Fulks]

Jeff,you're right about clamp "Ferris wheels" . One company I worked for had one, and when they moved to A LARGER building ,did not take it!

[Justin Ludwig]

I do the same as Mel, with a few extra clamps. I work in batches of 8 or so. By the time I've clamped up 8 doors the first ones are ready to come out. I can see the advantage in clamping systems, I just don't do anywhere near the volume to justify the floor space or expense;)

Those rotary clamping setups usually go for scrap at auction! You have to have a lot of real estate and high ceilings to make one work.

JeffD

That's why I like airing out my dirty laundry here. You all give great advice based on experience and help save a fella $ and time.

[Mark Bolton]

[QUOTE=Jeff Duncan;2179880I can see the advantage in clamping systems, I just don't do anywhere near the volume to justify the floor space or expense;)
JeffD[/QUOTE]

Nor do I but on a the occasional job with a lot of doors, and I do FF which I also build on the same table, it would be a lot faster for me and avoid all the clamp handling. Even on a decent size Ritter you can setup and intermediate fence or two and provided you had enough clamp cylinders you could clamp 4-8 doors. I can never see myself spending 10k on one but when I see them pop up for the low numbers it gets one thinking. I could easily spare a fee feet of wall space if I found one at the right price and condition.