made two handles, hate one

[Chance Raser]

So I made two handles, my first attempt at handles.

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The one with the clewes quick change (blue) finished at 18" including adapter.

The one with the one way adapter (red) finished at just over 19".

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I really liked the idea of the quick change because I have been making some new tools and thought making one handle would be cheaper in the long run than multiple. But I also liked the idea of being able to take the adapter off and put it on a new handle in the future. So I bought both.

The tools I've been working on
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Well, I made the handle for the clewes first. I really like the clewes quick adapter, but hate the handle. I realized after I had made it AND EPOXIED the adapter in that I profiled the handle backward. I hate this handle and need to make a new one.

Anyone have any tips for salvaging the adapter so I can make a new handle for it?

I used this epoxy.

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[Grant Wilkinson]

I have the Clewes adapters, too. Turn the handle off of the adapter. Put the adapter end into a cone center on your tailstock, use a steb center in the headstock and simply turn the wood away from the adapter.

[ron david]

or one could soak the epoxy part in acetone and it should soften.
ron

[Reed Gray]

I tried a lot of different handle shapes, and now have settled on a straight cylinder. Might be in part because I don't hold on to the end of the handle, but more in the middle and keep the end under my elbow. I will have to look into those adapters. Seems like there are a number of them out now.

robo hippy

[Bill Boehme]

I recommend making the handle style like a traditional handle where you can comfortably put your hand anywhere along the length of the handle.

[William C Rogers]

I don't use these adapters. I have seen them on tools, however I don't see a ferrule normally used. If I was using one for a bowl gouge I would think you would still use a ferrule or some means to strengthen the wood. Since I don't use them, do these adapters incorporate something that would eliminate the need for a ferrule?

[Chance Raser]

Thanks for suggestions. I think I'll try the acetone first.

Both of these have a Ferrell to some extent. The clewes has a 1/4" Ferrell ring that gets epoxied on prior to inserting the adapter.

The one way is different in that almost an inch of wood is inside the adapter. The adapter is tapered and threaded. So you shape the last 1" to match the taper and then thread the new handle into the adapter.

[Brice Rogers]

You received some workable responses. Just chucking it up and turning off the adapter is a great idea.

I think that heat will soften the epoxy. Something in the neighborhood of 200 to 250 degrees is likely to make the epoxy gummy. That low of a temperature won't do any harm to the metal in the adapter or ferrule. Wear gloves and do in a ventilated area.

[John K Jordan]

So I made two handles, my first attempt at handles. ...

Chance,

I love to make handles! The two you made are definitely not bad for your first attempt! Keep up the spindle turning. :)

The only thing on your handles I'm not sure I would like is what looks like a small bead in the middle of one and the kind of half-bead on the other. I'm imagining the transition on these might be uncomfortable on the hand and limit hand placement. I often change hand position and grip depending on the cuts and tool.

I've made and used a lot of different handle styles over the years and gradually found what works best for me. I enjoy turning small and "mid-sized" pieces and I prefer a non-cylindrical handle.

For most of my turning I've more-or-less settled on one design for most handles, especially for handles longer than about 8" or so. The shape has a slight swelling near where the tool is connected, tapers down to a narrower section, then has a slight flare at the very bottom. For me, this is easy to hold, feels comfortable to me, easy to control, and easy to grip in a variety of ways, both one- and two-handed.

As you can see, I use this basic design a lot:

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This picture shows the last two I made. I like to put some kind of texture on the wood to give a better grip (and to feel good!)

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Here are the threads if you are interested:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?254707-Another-5-8-quot-shaft-capacity-handle-adapter
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?254527-New-spindle-roughing-gouge-brass-adapter

If you look at handles sold by major tool companies for years, such as Sorby, Crown, Henry Taylor, and others, you will see that many of them are similar design. After trying different shapes myself, I can why this basic design is used a lot.

I do use the metal handle adapters a lot (homemade), but keep in mind they may not be as strong as a tool set firmly and deeply in the wood with a good ferrule. As I mentioned, most of my turning is not on large things and catches are almost non-existant so any lack of strength is not an issue. I like to make a deep hole in the wood for most tools so I can control the extension length. This lets me use a shorter extension where needed for more control. It also permits keeping the extension the same over the years as the tool is gradually shortened by grinding. I think this consistency is helpful for fine tool control, especially on delicate work and when used one-handed.

I personally don't much like cylindrical handles for most of my turning, especially on smaller things. However, long cylindrical handles are great for larger turnings and tools like large scrapers, big bow gouges, etc. My favorites here are the Monster handles with a tough foam rubber material covering a heavy solid steel bar. The length and non-slip rubber provides a good grip and the mass helps dampen vibration and shock when roughing big things. From the Monster Tool web site:
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In general, I do not like bare metal handles since they can feel cold and unpleasant. Wood feels better!


JKJ

[Chance Raser]

Well after asking the question and getting ready to try the acetone I cut the end off and as I was looking at it decided to try and squeeze it in the vice. Much to my excitement it was working. I basically just squeezed the bottom 1/3, just below the OD of the adapter and crushed the wood. Rotated 45 deg and repeated. After about 3 minutes the wood pretty much fell away from the adapter! Ready to make a new handle.