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View Full Version : Need Help w/ Rogue Jointer



Sam Chambers
06-22-2003, 8:03 PM
Hey, y'all....(standard Southern greeting, adopted by this transplanted Buckeye)

About a year and a half ago, I bought a brand new Powermatic Model 54 jointer. It's not the new 54a with the long bed, but that's OK with me. After assembling the new toy, I quickly realized that it was possessed by a demon, as it liked to turn on all by itself! One quick call to Powermatic and I had a new switch.

Without going into all the details about my lack of shop time since then, suffice it to say that I finally got around to installing the new switch yesterday. It would have been a whole lot easier if the jointer itself weren't on the stand, but nonethless, the switch is replaced and all is well - or so I thought.

When I first assembled the jointer, I had some trouble getting a good square corner. So, I decided to go through the setup process again. An hour or so later, I had reset all the knives and the outfeed table, and set the fence at 90 degrees (according to both my engineer's square and my Starrett combo square) and started doing some test cuts on a length of 2" x 4" pine about 24 inches long.

I first face jointed one side, then placed that side firmly against the fence and jointed the adjacent edge. Checking the cut, I found it was not square. So, I kept adjusting the fence, hoping to sneak up an an accurate 90-degree corner. No dice. It's close, but I can still see light between the wood and the square.

I tried to measure the gap, and here's where it gets interesting. My thinnest feeler gauge is .002", and it wouldn't fit through the gap. But I can still see light.

So, here's my question...Am I being too much of a perfectionist? If the gap is less than .002", should that be good enough, or should I keep futzing around with it?

Another question, while I'm thinking about it. The fence has a slight cup, top to bottom. It's about .008", and Powermatic told me their tolerance is .010". Can I (or should that be "should I") flatten the fence to get rid of the cup? I'd plan on attaching sandpaper to my table saw table and slowly, carefully sand the fence until it was flat, realizing there's a chance I could end up with a worse problem that the one I started with.

Hopefully some of you more experienced folks can give me the benefit of your wisdom on these issues.

Carl Eyman
06-22-2003, 8:44 PM
My first reaction is this: Is the final result of the work on the jointer satisfactory? To say it another way: Is the stock you mill close enough to perfect for your purposes? If so, you've answered your own question. If not, "Sail On, Sail On" as Columbus said.

PS I'll bet your results are so much better than I get on my old Craftsman that I should be ashamed to be answering your post.

Bob Lasley
06-23-2003, 8:35 AM
Sam,

You might check your knives, if they are not parallel with the table you won't get a square cut no matter how flat the fence is.

Good luck,
Bob

Ted Shrader
06-23-2003, 8:39 AM
Sam -

Have you tried any hardwood for a test cut? Pine is soft and will give during cutting - sometimes gives bogus results.

As far as machining the fence face - I would leave it alone. The majority of the boards I edge joint are about the same height as the fence (or greater), so falttening it is not worth the rsik of introducing more error.

Regards,
Ted

Dave Arbuckle
06-23-2003, 10:11 AM
You need a couple pieces of wood that have two parallel faces (ie, planed). Joint them both to "square". Now, lay them on a known flat surface and see how the jointed edges mate together. If bad, adjust jointer. If good, flip one board and mate the jointed edges again. If bad, adjust jointer. If good, smile and say "that jointer is set just right".

I have my share of precision measuring devices, but some things are better just testing. ;)

Dave