My take on sliding dovetails

[Kees Heiden]

Yes, i am cheap, so no expensive dovetail plane with all the bells and whistles for me. I took an old rabbet plane, and cut the sole at an angle. Of course I had to regrind the iron too.

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I didn't need a fence, because I clamped a temporary fence to the stock. I also didn't need a nicker, because I cut the shoulder first with a rip saw along the fence.

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Then the plane does what it should do. Thick shavings, not a totally pristine surface, but hey, it's completely hidden from view, so who cares.

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And this is the result. I've chosen a pretty agressive angle, 1:3. This is for a chest based on 17th century examples, and they liked bold angles back then.

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The female part will have to wait a bit, because I haven't got the wood for the top yet. What I had proved to be a poor match, so I am going to seek a couple of new boards.

All in all, I am happy with the result so far. (apart from the silly Iphone which turned my pictures in random positions again. And I am too lazy now to correct them).

[James Pallas]

Kees A lot has to be said for the plane an d the operator to have kept those corner intact on a run that long.
Jim

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Kees

The dovetail plane I built (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/EvolvingADovetailPlane2.html) nearly a dozen years ago was based on an old wooden skew rebate plane. It continues to do duty.

What is the angle of your dovetail? In ratio, it looks about 1:4. This may be too low (this may be your photo), which would place the edges of the dovetails at risk. The ratio on mine is 1:7 which has worked well all these years.


I didn't need a fence, because I clamped a temporary fence to the stock. I also didn't need a nicker, because I cut the shoulder first with a rip saw along the fence.

Kees, I noticed that your test board was planed with the grain. That is why a nicker is not needed. However, when I use the dovetail plane, it is to plane across the grain. Then a nicker is important (you can get away without one by pre-knifing the board, but that is an extra task - as is sawing the shoulder).

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/SlidingDovetailsByHand1_html_252ed74a.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/SlidingDovetailsByHand1_html_57594a2e.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Allen1010]

Very cool Kees! And like many great ideas it has the virtue of simplicity – no wonder I didn't think of it. I'm definitely going to give this a try. Thanks for sharing your idea.


Best Mike

[Kees Heiden]

I don't see myself making this joint very often and this one will be hidden from view completely. So I choose this quick and dirty aproach. Maybe I'll make real plane in the future. Commercially only the ECC plane seems to be avalaible. Not even LV has one?

I choose a 1:3 angle. I really didn't know any better. There was some discussion on instagram where people prefered a 1:4 over the more standard 1:6 angle because the fit is less critical. A shaving too much on the tenon and the joint pulls apart according to them. I always love living on the edge and went even further. But you like to live on the edge too Derek with 1:7! That's a very shallow angle.

Using 1:3 one needs to be sure that the base is still wide enough. But on these thick boards that's not a problem. I can always change the plane to a more reasonable 1:4 later if I need the plane again. Or I make a new one.

The plane has a huge mouth now. Maybe I should add a mouth patch.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Kees

Nothing wrong with quick and dirty. But 1:3 is too radical. The grain will run out and the dovetail will be weak. My 1:7 is very strong.

I like sliding dovetails. In the sofa table I shall use one for the lower rail on the side (where the drawer will go). I used them extensively in the Lingerie Chest ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/SlidingDovetails-LC_html_bcb2049.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/SlidingDovetails-LC_html_719c0f26.jpg

That is a 1:7 ratio. Dovetails do not need to be double, or have severe angles to hold. A shallow angle holds well, and there is less likelihood of run out.



The plane has a huge mouth now. Maybe I should add a mouth patch.

I added a sole to mine.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/EvolvingADovetailPlane2_html_4a0297d3.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/EvolvingADovetailPlane2.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Kees Heiden]

According to the link to your webpage, your's is a 1:6.

And in endgrain you are quite right, 1:3 would be rather weak. This is long grain luckily and not half as weak as end grain.

[Derek Cohen]

1:6! .. Kees, what are you building?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Kees Heiden]

I'm making a cabinet for the bathroom. It's going to look like a 17th century blanket chest but with doors in the front instead of a lid. The top will be fixed in place with these sliding dovetails.

[george wilson]

Faith and Begorrah!!! Get hold of your nickers Man!!