Flutter Method

[lowell holmes]

For bandsaw newbies, you might want to check this video.

alex snodgrass bandsaw flutter method

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

[Frederick Skelly]

Good video. Thanks Lowell!

[glenn bradley]

I've been a flutter method guy ever since I ran into Timberwolf blades a decade or so ago. It is their recommended method (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six-rules-of-sawing.html)and seems to work on any steel blade I have used (Woodslicers, Olsen, Timberwolf, Carter). Can't speak to bi-metals but, from what I read here, carbide tipped bands require a different approach. All that said, I use this method on 17", 14" and 10" saws. No drift, no tracking problems. On the 17" saw I often resaw with the guides a fair distance from the work; no problem.

[lowell holmes]

I have no issues on my 14" Jet. I use the flutter method to tension the blade.

[Curt Harms]

I use the flutter method as well but do it a little bit different. My Rikon 10-325 has a window in the top door to view the tension gauge. If I bend down a little, I can see the area where the band returns to the top wheel. It seems like if the band is too loose, there'll be flutter in the band perhaps 8" before the top wheel. Tighten enough to make that flutter go away and the band seems to cut well. I played around one day resawing SPF scrap. I started with enough tension to just make the flutter go away on the return side then tensioned a little more and tried another resaw, tensioned a little more and another resaw cut etc. I didn't see any gain with more tension and I think the cut may have gotten a little rougher with quite high tension though that doesn't make sense. This was with one band and soft wood. Would my results have been different with hard wood or a different band? Possibly.