Bed with splayed legs

[Sanjay Kumar]

Hi,

I am trying to make this bed as my next project. Can I ask for advise on how to design the splayed legs? I am particularly concerned about the strength so I am not sure what joinery should I be using.

Here is the reference bed with splayed legs: https://d3df8ea8ea59eq.cloudfront.ne...6784/large.jpg (https://d3df8ea8ea59eq.cloudfront.net/photos/6063391372700811264/6133553441860726784/large.jpg)

http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=413556&d=1496425619&thumb=1 (http://www.woodworkforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=413556&d=1496425619)

Could you please help me plan this bed?

[Steve Wilde]

I have no idea how you would do that and get those leg joints strong, I like it though. I built a bed a few years ago fairly similar, actually just like the Thos Moser Vita bed. It was a fun but tough project. Learned a lot!361307

[Jamie Buxton]

The biggest problem is to avoid breaking the splayed leg. I'd make it with the grain direction parallel to the long bottom edge of the leg. I'd run bolts up through the leg from the bottom, counterbored so the heads are not visible, terminating in tee-nuts installed from the top of the mattress platform. The bolts will then be squeezing the splayed leg together, to resist breakage.

The rails you can see in the pic "aim" the legs. I'd use mortise-and-tenon at the ends of the rails.

[Pat Barry]

A few questions for you: 1) is this going to be a solid plywood platform? 2) what angle are you thinking for the legs? (they look to be somewhere from 30 to 45 deg up from floor) 3) how much clearance from the bottom of the platform to the floor? Thee answers will help determine leg design

[Sanjay Kumar]

Hi Barry,

1. This will be a solid wood bed, not plywood.
2. To be honest, I am fine even with 60 degrees for legs. I don't need that low angle.
3. The clearance will be close to 8 inches from the ground.

[Sanjay Kumar]

This looks very good. I love it..

[Prashun Patel]

The strength will increase considerably the closer to 90 you can make those legs.

You can increase the strength by connecting the opposing legs with an apron that forms an "X" under the base. Using a bridle joint will offer increased glue area and may - I'll defer to other opinions - be a viable alternative to M&T in this case.

You can still keep the box apron for aesthetics.

Also, remember that you can add as many 'hidden' legs under the bed as you wish. Done well, you can make them nearly invisible, yet they will carry the brunt of the bed load.

[Jamie Buxton]

... This will be a solid wood bed, not plywood. ..

Don't be stupid. Plywood is exactly what you need to support the mattress. And it is a necessary part of holding the legs together.

[lowell holmes]

I would consider using a steel skeleton wrapped with wood to make that bed. The legs could be superficial.

[Wayne Lomman]

I agree with Lowell. The design is elegant but timber engineering principles were thrown out the window. Make a steel skeleton and wrap it. It works and you never have to worry about bed breakage.

If steel is out of the question, consider laminating the leg and support rail in one piece using multiple thin laminations so that the change in direction from leg to rail is as small a radius curve as possible. Cheers

[Vince Shriver]

Steve, great design - love the arches. I have no doubt it was a tough project. Very nice.

[Dave Richards]

I think it would be possible to make a workable leg like that out of wood.

Maybe something along the lines of this (https://flic.kr/p/VbRx2Q). Extend the leg inside the frame. Perhaps add a wedge to the bottom for a bit more beef and carriage bolts to attach them to the plywood platform. The bolts will be under tension so you might add a steel plate on top as a backing plate.

[Pat Barry]

I think it would be possible to make a workable leg like that out of wood.

Maybe something along the lines of this (https://flic.kr/p/VbRx2Q). Extend the leg inside the frame. Perhaps add a wedge to the bottom for a bit more beef and carriage bolts to attach them to the plywood platform. The bolts will be under tension so you might add a steel plate on top as a backing plate.
I agree. Had a similar thought. I would male the horizontal section longer though. Like a lever, there is more bang for the buck with longer sections. I would do a plywood platform (this will never be seen, is structurally more sound, and more economical to boot), wrap the visible plywood edges with your preferred lumber. I wouldn't go less than 45 degrees splay from horizontal.

[Dave Richards]

I agree. Had a similar thought. I would male the horizontal section longer though. Like a lever, there is more bang for the buck with longer sections. I would do a plywood platform (this will never be seen, is structurally more sound, and more economical to boot), wrap the visible plywood edges with your preferred lumber. I wouldn't go less than 45 degrees splay from horizontal.

I agree, Pat. I'd make the legs as long as possible to spread out the bolts. I wasn't especially concerned about dimensions when I made the sketch but I would make it as long as possible.

[Wayne Lomman]

Forget the steel. Dave has come up with a good workable solution. Hats off. Cheers

[lowell holmes]

Wood would sag over time. Plywood might work. So, plywood or steel, you are still
left with wrapping the structure with wood for aesthetic purposes.

[Dan Manweiler]

Mr. Richards, I’m new to this blog. I know it’s been several years since this thread regarding splayed legs originated, and that may be why the “Flickr” link you provided of a wood joint good for the purpose appears inoperable to me now? Could you post the image, or link showing this joint again? I hope to build this very bed for my son who’s recently a first time home buyer. Thanks, Dan Manweiler

[Jim Becker]

Dan, Dave has not been on SMC for several years.

[Dan Manweiler]

Dan, Dave has not been on SMC for several years.
Thanks Jim! Can you think of another way to see the joinery? Seemed from the post everyone felt it was a sound approach.

[Howard Rosenberg]

What about bridle joints and a pair of counterbores to hold the tongue in place.

And perhaps the outer angle closer to 90-deg (5 or 7 degrees?) than not and a steeper inner angle to SUGGEST an overall dramatic angle. After all, beds get a lot more "aggressive" use than most other furntiture....

I also agree that plywood is a more sensible choice. Use vertical supports underneath to maintain the sheet's tensile strength.

But keep us posted on your decisions and progress!

[Tom Bender]

A bed should be for sleeping, if it is something nice to look at that's great too.

This can be done in wood but it's a bad design, ergonomically. Those legs will trip you in the night and break your toes. There is no reason to have support so far out. Tuck the support back at least 6"

Also, many people suffer from GIRD (a digestive inconvenience) Raising the head of the bed about 4" makes a big improvement and will not cause any problems. Consider putting this into your design.

[Ted Calver]

Gotta agree with Tom, or at least my broken toe does :p ^^^

[Jack Frederick]

The bed in the guest room at my daughter and SIL’s home is similar to this design. That thing is deadly. Count me into the Tom and Ted Club on this one. I bought 3/4” pipe insulation and wrapped the lower legs. Not pretty but that bed has bitten to many in the dead of night. Pretty though.