Never had this problem with glue up before - help

[eddie anvari]

360797360799So I used painters tape to limit glue clean up and it looks like the boards must have pinched some of the painters tape and now it's in the glued up joint. I have tried to plane it down but looks like there will always be a fraction stuck in there. Anyone had this happen? I'm afraid to stain

Suggestions? I really don't want to get more aggressive with planing it down or sanding as this is for a dining room table

I have some pics but not sure how to upload from my phone

[Bob Bouis]

Probably you'll have to cut the glue line with a table saw or track saw then joint the edges and re glue it. That's what I'd do. No telling how deep that tape goes in there.

[Hoang N Nguyen]

I agree with Bob, no point in risking it. Cutting it down and re-gluing it shouldn't add much time the project and will give you better peace of mind.

[Steve Demuth]

Did this once myself. Because cutting and regluing would have required serious deconstruction and remaking of pieces, I carefully chiseled out a V groove and glued in a patch. But given the length and the fact that this a flat glue-up, 'd agree with the others in your case. Rip it out and reglue. I no longer use tape for glue protection.

[Howard Rosenberg]

Wow.
That must be very frustrating.
If you want the glue up to remain a single single-lookingnpiece, the most practical advice is to saw everything apart, joint and reglue. But if you can live with showing your assembly as the separate boards it is why not run a v-groove bit in a router down each glue line and treat it as though it started out designed that way.

If you're not sure, why not give it a try to see what you think of one or two done that way first. You can always run everything down the tables we after that if you're not happy.

Howard

[Larry Frank]

What type and brand of painter's tape are you using.

I use the green Frog Tape and have not had a problem.

[glenn bradley]

I've done this . . . once. Cut things apart, made new parts and re assembled. That lesson was learned really well and I am triple-careful ever since. I've also learned that I can re-do something faster and better than fixing things in certain cases; this may be one. If you are OK enough with it to not cut it apart and do it over, I would just proceed and see how much it bothers you when the finishing is completed . . . I would do it over.

[Rick Malakoff]

Did this once myself. Because cutting and regluing would have required serious deconstruction and remaking of pieces, I carefully chiseled out a V groove and glued in a patch. But given the length and the fact that this a flat glue-up, 'd agree with the others in your case. Rip it out and reglue.

I the past I have used a 1/8th inch veining bit as a detail and it looked good also I have cut stuff apart in the past.
But if your really unhappy and can't live with it just cut it apart and start over.
Rick

[Robert Engel]

I've had this happen in corners where the glue actually got under the tape.

You could wait till you finish and see how noticeable it really is before redoing it.

[eddie anvari]

Thx for all the replies. I actually figured it was worth finishing to see if it mattered first and I was lucky enough that u can't tell at all. I did sand down as much as I could used a conditioner and then stained. As for other first problems I now have a new one. For some reason the stain and oak reacted funny leaving a flaked / sparkle spec look. It's hard to see in pics but basically it looks like a metallic paint job would which has flakes that catch ur eye. I have no idea how to deal with this other than try to add another coat of stain and wipe down really hard to try to remove it. Very frustrating

[Prashun Patel]

Those specs are possibly oil from the finish seeping out of the pores of the wood. Oak can do this. For the first couple coats, you have to take care to come back during drying and wipe off the spots. They can dry permanantly otherwise. The solution to removing them is to wipe down the surface with mineral spirits and/or lightly sand. They will go away quickly that way.

You will also note that the planing marks have not been completely sanded out. This is common, and may not be enough of an issue for you to deal with at this point, but note for next time that examining the fully sanded surface in raking light can help identify these tiny scallops. As you add more and more coats of finish, the scallops will become a tad more evident under certain lighting conditions. I learned the hard way... It's not the end of the world. Your table looks great though.

[eddie anvari]

Interesting I thought about light sanding with 1000 grit but seems like the oil spots u mentioned are in the deep of the oak groves. And yes during drying phase I went back 3 times and wiped them out. At the time I got them all but they have reappeared.

I will try some mineral spirits. But I'm worried about blot hung. Considered adding another stain coat to try to wipe better

[Cary Falk]

Those specs are possibly oil from the finish seeping out of the pores of the wood. Oak can do this.

I agree. Red oak does it to me all the time.

[Rick Potter]

I have this a lot also. The stain seeps far into the 'combed area' of the grain, and will seep back up for a few days. I usually keep wiping it down, a couple days, till I think it is dry, then the next day, set it out in the sun for an hour. That gets the last of it to rise, so I can wipe it down again.

[Don Jarvie]

It's easier to scrape the glue and sand it.