Plane tote

[Ray Bohn]

I started looking for a replacement tote for a #4 Stanley. I have found them listed two ways
- replacement for #4
- replacement for #3 and #4.

I realize that the buying one that is specifically for a #4 is probably a no brainer, but can someone explain why some are listed for both 3 and 4?

Some years used same totes for both or simply "close enough" for some people?

Thanks

[Jim Koepke]

It would take me a trip out to the shop to do some comparisons, but me thinks they are the same tote. Some folks buy an old plane at a yard sale and sell off the parts. Sadly the parts can often bring more than a complete plane.

Many of my user planes were planes bought for parts that were actually better than what the pictures and write up made them out to be.

jtk

[Trevor Goodwin]

I had vintage Record #3 that had a tote with only the long bolt holding it on. This was a nuisance as it always had a little bit of wiggle at the front of the tote where it seats in the casting. Probably could have shimmed it or filed the end of bolt so that it could apply more pressure, I suspect shrinkage had something to do with it. Sold the plane as I found it awkward to use, even for my girly hands. I plan to avoid single-bolt totes in the future.

[steven c newman]

Many of those single bolt handles ( #4 and below) have a "tab" sticking up, to engage the toe end. On the planes I restore, common practice is to remove about three threads on the end of the bolt. Many times, the brass "nut" will bottom out before the handle is tightened down. Wear & tear will make the top end a bit loose, as well. Have had a couple where I needed to remove threads at both ends of the bolt.

Depending on what the base casting looks like under the handle....most other handle sizes (#3 , #4, #5-1/4) will fit. Main thing will be the angle the bolt sits at in the handle. Some handles will use a small hole for the tab/pin to sit in, others use a slot. Some Millers Falls made planes (type 5) have a pin in the handle, that fits a hole in the base. Sometimes, the pin is in the base, sometimes it stays in the handle.

There is no provision for a toe bolt on the smaller planes, at least in the vintage ones. To add the toe bolt would involve drilling and tapping a hole in the base casting.....not a great idea. Lot more work than merely shortening the single bolt.

[Ralph Boumenot]

Look up Bill Rittner or Droz old tyme plane totes. Both awesome replacement totes and knobs

[Frederick Skelly]

Why not make your own? They aren't hard to do. Here's a link to one of many "how to's" on the web. Link (http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/planetote.html). Here he's making an LV tote, but the same basic approach will work for Stanley.
Fred

[Mike Baker 2]

Thanks for the link.
I have a Millers Fall plane here with the plastic tote/knob. I don't like the tote because it has raised ridges molded into it that irritate my hand. The front knob has these as well, but I don't have any way to make that.
But the method in the link you posted is almost exactly what I am planning to do to make a tote for it out of some white ash I have. Good to know I am on the right track.

[Jim Koepke]

If you would like another perspective on making a tote, look in the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805-Neanderthal-wisdom-FAQs

Scroll down to section #8. Making a Tote by Clint Jones is pretty straight forward.

jtk

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks for the link.
I have a Millers Fall plane here with the plastic tote/knob. I don't like the tote because it has raised ridges molded into it that irritate my hand. The front knob has these as well, but I don't have any way to make that.
But the method in the link you posted is almost exactly what I am planning to do to make a tote for it out of some white ash I have. Good to know I am on the right track.

Great! Glad it helped. Take a look at the link Koepke posted too, just for more viewpoints.

On making a new knob... Now I haven't tried it myself, but I bet you could make one with a saw, some chisels and a rasp. Wouldn't be hard, just slow - lotta rasping/filing/chiselling to shape a square blank into a knob. But I think it's feasible. (Personally, I enjoy that kind of work. I understand that you might not. :) ) That's one of the things I like about hand tools - you can do a devil of a lot of things, with only a few tools.

Good luck!
Fred

[steven c newman]

There is one thing to consider when making your own handles.....how to drill the holes, and drill them straight, at the angle needed. You also will need to match the holes to the top's brass nut, and the ''boss" size where the bolt threads in.

Same with the front knob. However, when doing the knob, drill the holes first. Then run a bolt through the blank. You can either jusy make the smaller hole, or do all the sizes. The bolt? Make it long enough that you can add a washer and a nut, and still have enough to chuck into the drill press. Turn the drill press on, and a rasp to shape the knob. Speed the drill press up to "high gear" and sand smooth. You can even wipe on a finish while the knob is in the chuck.

[Mike Baker 2]

BTW, does anyone know the thread count/size of the bolts used one Millers Fall planes, and if that thread is readily available?