What are opinions of this era Unisaw - "Platinum Edition" 3hp

[Phillip Mitchell]

I'm in the market for a barely used cabinet saw that's not too much of a chore to chase after and move (read: local and I live in a small town, 2 hrs from any area of major population.) My budget is $1k or less to be cutting wood with the saw.

For the past 3-4 years, I've been using a Delta contractor saw with 30" bies fence, thin kerf blades, custom outfeed and extension tables, and the best dust collection mods I can muster. It belongs to a good friend and has been with me on extended loan until he needs it back. That time has now come, and I want to use this as an opportunity to buy a cabinet saw that I will not want to upgrade. I've been mostly happy with the contractor saw, but it goes out of alignment too easily and the blade tilt mechanism is worn and doesn't always function properly or reliably. It also vibrates quite a bit compared to a cabinet saw.

Just came across this saw local to me and wanted to some more opinions on it's value and quality. I use a pair of older era (3 hp?) Unisaws all the time at work and have that as a reference. I've also ran an early '50s 1hp version for a short time, but found it lacking in power.

Details...

-3hp , single phase "Platinum Edition"
-52" ? Bies fence and laminate extension table to right of blade included
-I'm told that it was purchased new a little more than 10 years ago as a back-up saw in a cabinet shop, saw very little use, and has been in storage for most of that time. Looks pretty nice from pics.
-Nothing included (blades, accessories) except what's seen in photos

I am planning on checking it out as early as tomorrow to give it an inspection and test drive.

Seller is asking $1200, and may budge a little as it is just taking up space for him at this point. Seems a little on the high side, but not unreasonable. On the other hand, it's local to me at a time when I'm in need and appears to be very much unmolested and in fine condition. I'm at a place in my life with work and family where it's worth it more to me to buy things quicker and more conveniently than taking a day off work or entire weekend day to drive, load equipment, drive back and either lose money or time with family, so that's a consideration.

I was hoping to find a left tilt cabinet saw, but a right tilt is not really a big deal. I would rather have a PM 66 as my "forever" saw, but they seem to run a little higher than my budget most times (in good condition.)

Does anyone have any first-hand experiences with the build quality of Unisaws of this era, good, bad or indifferent. I've always been pleased with the Unisaw I use at work, but they are older (70s-80s era.)

Thoughts?

Many thanks,
Phillip

[Mike Henderson]

It looks good to me. If it's in good shape I think the price is okay. I sold a 5HP (but left tilt) version of that saw for $1,200 but that was a special to a friend.

Mike

[Steve Mathews]

Take this for what it's worth based on a new and very inexperienced woodworker but by happenstance I came upon 2 cabinet saws about the same time, the exact same Unisaw you posted and an older Jet JTAS-10. Both were right hand tilt. After comparing them for what seemed like forever I ended up selling the Unisaw for $1000 and keeping the Jet. I realize most will say the Unisaw is better but I couldn't see it. The top on the Jet was just a tad larger and seemed smoother. The Unisaw didn't come with a dust port like the Jet. The fences seemed the same to me. Overall the Jet just seemed better built. I guess what I'm trying to say is that vintage Unisaw was not very impressive to me. I would wait for something better to come along unless you're just itching to pull the trigger. If you do get it I would highly recommend the new Sharkguard setup.

[Tom Trees]

I don't know what the price of saws goes where you are, but you might get it a bit cheaper if you
mention it doesn't have a riving knife with it.
Have a look if you can buy one some place . doesn't take that long to make one if you want the saw.
Tom

[Phillip Mitchell]

Not expecting to get a true riving knife on any saw that I can afford, so that's not really a sticking point, IMO. I would like to install an aftermarket version on whatever saw I end up with.

[jack duren]

The saw was used more than a little, but sounds about right on price. Hope it all checks out for you.....

[Mike Kees]

I have two unisaws in my shop. One is about 25 years old,it had never been used when I bought it 15 years ago. My other Uni is the vintage you are looking at. Biggest difference is the motors. Old one has a big baldor 3h.p. Newer one has a marathon again 3 h.p. but physically smaller. Under the hood the design exactly the same and they both run smooth and work just as good. Check it out ,try it out and if you like it offer 900ish and see what happens. good luck,Mike.

[Bruce Page]

I have a slightly older 3hp Grand Edition Uni (1999) that looks identical except for paint. It has been rock solid from day one. I paid ~$2200 for it IIRC including a mobile base. I wouldn't sell it for $1200.

[Davis Young]

I have this exact saw: platinum edition, 3hp, single phase. The only difference is I have the Unifence instead of the Biesmeyer. The motor is 3hp TEFC from Marathon. Purchased new in 2001 for about $1700 with a $100 rebate so I think their price is a little high, especially since it is missing the blade wrenches, miter gauge, and blade guard. The wrenches you can easily find a suitable replacement, the miter guide is nothing to write home about, and the blade guard is a pain to install and remove so most people take it off and leave it off. No riving knife for this era, it is a splitter with anti-kickback pawls and a clear plastic guard. There are suitable and probably superior aftermarket options available. As for performance, the saw has not given me any trouble over the years. I have never used thin kerf blades and have ripped up to 8/4 hard maple with no problems. I've also made cheek cuts for tenons with the blade fully extended (3") in all sorts of material with no issues. I have not had to replace the belts yet, or any other parts for that matter. Even the factory blade I still find useful after all these years. The only issue I've had was about a couple of years ago on a hot day during a heavy ripping session the motor shut down, possibly due to overheating. After cooling off (me and the saw), the saw turned on again and I have not experienced that since. Hope this is helpful.

ps: fun fact, the platinum edition included a form where you could fill out and send away for a customized plaque. The plaque reads, "This Platinum Edition Unisaw Manufactured by Delta Especially for (Your Name)" and is then affixed to the front of the cabinet, in case you were wondering what those four holes down there were for.

[Phillip Mitchell]

If I came across a 3 HP (or bigger) single phase Baldor motor from an older Unisaw, would I be able to swap the motors out easily? Wondering if they mount the same way or if something would have to fabricated or modified to install.

Thanks for all the comments. I'm going to try and check the saw out today and see how I feel about it after seeing it in person.

[jack duren]

Why would you do this?

[Phillip Mitchell]

I'm just thinking down the road. If I bought the saw and years down the road, I needed to replace the motor...what would my options be. I plan on keeping whatever table saw I buy now for as long as possible.

[Jim Becker]

The saw is a good machine and it looks to be in excellent condition in the photos. I agree with the others that you may want to negotiate a little as the asking price is a little closer to "new" than a used machine likely should be, considering there's no warranty, etc.

[Mike Kees]

Yes. Unisaws have the welded on "wings" on the motor. Baldor still makes it as does Leeson. You can also buy one from Grizzly,the early 1023 saws are basically a direct copy of the Unisaw design and the replacement motors will work on a Uni. Mike.

[Jim Andrew]

I have an 04 unisaw I bought new. No problems at all. I bought the cheapest version with long rails and biesemeyer fence.

[Phillip Mitchell]

Thanks for all the replies. I decided to hold off on going to check out this saw. It's not exactly what I want and the seller doesn't want to go any lower than $1100, which over-extends my budget and doesn't allow any $ for accessories that would need to be added once I bought it.

Prior to this, I came across a local Powermatic PM72A, but it was 3 phase and the seller wouldn't really name a price he wanted...which is annoying. I gave him a low ball offer over the phone, and he said he'd get back to me if he didn't get offers that he liked more....

It appears that I have at least a couple months before I need to return the current contractor saw, so I'm going to keep playing the field and see if I can snag an old Powermatic in my price range.

Thanks again for all the feedback.

[Nick Decker]

Anybody that wants to sell something but won't give an asking price? See ya.

[Bruce Page]

I am unfamiliar with the Powermatic PM72A. Is it a contractor saw?
The PM72 is a large cabinet saw that takes a 12-14" blade.

[Phillip Mitchell]

I agree, Nick. Very frustrating to deal with someone who just wants to entertain offers and won't say what they are expecting for something and have no description of condition.

It's a PM72. Not sure what the A means, but it appears to be a PM72. Photo attached.

[Geoff Crimmins]

All Unisaws (except for the totally different model that Delta sells now) use the same motor mount. Nothing else uses the same motor mount as a Unisaw. So you could replace the motor with any other Unisaw motor. Other motors can be adapted to a Unisaw, but it requires fabricating a custom motor mount.

[David Kumm]

PM 72a was a left tilt saw. Could be had in single phase ( rare ) or three phase. About three times the saw as a 66 or uni but only you can decide if you need that. 12" blade retract under the table, 14" will work but sticks out about 1". I doubt it has a riving knife but a MJ type splitter or sharkguard get you to the same place. Dave

[jack duren]

We have the 72 at work and nobody likes it. It's a bit different to use than the 66 or unisaw.

Accessories are things that can be bought later. The main saw is the prize.

You need to settle on a price and go for what is in that range. Accessories on a saw only boosts the price...

My Unisaw cost $1600 in 1999. It's still a $1600 saw today....

[Michael Dye]

The Powermatic 72 is a great saw. Just an outgrowth of the 66. 1" arbor makes it tough on your supply of blades and dado sets. The only thing I found uncomfortable was the distance from the fence rails to the center of the blade. I'm only 5' 10" and spend a lot of time leaning over that saw at an unusual angle. Because of that, I would use the 66 before even looking at the 72. Personal choice.