Looking to lower the initial cost of my first garage wood shop.

[Edward Henry]

I was hoping for suggestions to what I can buy of equal quality to the Grizzly products but save some money? I desire New not used but do not know if Lowes or Home Depot has anything equal.
also need choices for Air Compressor, 18 & 23 gauge nail guns, trying to save enough to add a dust collector but don't want to sacrifice quality for price savings.

Here are my Grizzly quotes for various methods of buy from all at once to splitting up.
I decided to go with floor models of tablesaw, drill press, and bandsaw and the rest as Table Top versions.
360107360108360109

I am a Disabled Veteran on limited income not trying to be cheap just looking for best bang for the buck, any help will be welcomed.

[Mike DeHart]

can you let us know what type of work you plan on doing? cabinets, small boxes, etc.

[David T gray]

what do you plan on building is important .

[Matt Day]

There aren't really any options to be honest. Grizzly makes affordable good equipment in entry level to pro level machinery. I wouldn't buy anything but small power tools from a big box store, or I suppose portable table saws from Dewalt or Bosch if I was in the market.
Your best option is to buy used, but you said you don't want to go that route.

And of course we need to know what you want to build before we can recommend specific items.

[Edward Henry]

The only large items will be my shelves and storage tables and such for the workshop, after that it is for craft boxes, signs, gifts, small hobby stuff in the hopes of learning to make items to sell for an extra $500 a month income, hoping these shop tools can help me buy a small CNC router later and the CNC help get an Epilog Helix Laser engraver/cutter. And might try to learn how to lathe in the future.

my disability is not physical so that aspect won't be an issue, just hope the wood hobby can relax me and lessen my PTSD.

I think the 6" spiral cutter table Jointer, 13" Dewalt Table planer will be large enough for craft work, I also plan to upgrade planer with an after market spiral cutter.

[Edward Henry]

Trying to decide on an air compressor and 18 & 23 guage air nailers, a drill/driver set and such as well. I am itching to buy soon and I can get 90% of the stuff I want at Grizzly right now but will max out 2 credit cards. But if It is my best option I will go in Monday and place my order.

for now I have a Dewalt 10" table saw to use and saving for a Grizzly G0715P

[Chris Hachet]

Start with the Grizzly 1023 Table saw and a simple solid workbench IMHO. The rest will sort itself out over time. Some things are astonishing values used, such as well maintained older drill presses and scroll saws. Some things do not depreciate much, such as 8 inch jointers.

Buying things once and buying quality is much better than buying anything cheap.

If you buy a router the Bosch 1617evs is nice because you can slow it down and run larger router bits.

Learn to do things with hand tools, it can be very rewarding.

Don't worry too much about what other people think, build what you want and enjoy yourself.

If possible, I would put 220 in the shop. It will open...or build...a lot of doors.

You say you don't like the Idea of used but a VFD will allow you to run three phase motors of single phase power, three phase equipment can be often had very economically.

The fewer tools you can get by with to an extent the better. Gadgets don't solve problems or build things, rational thinking and acquired skills do.

Bandsaws are the most under rated tool you can have, also the most frustrating if your not patient and willing to work with them.

[David Eisenhauer]

I would advise to think carefully before maxing out two credit cards to buy a bunch of equipment for craft type goods manufacturing. The profit margin on craft stuff is slim-slim-slim and you may drop an amount of cash into something that will not pay for itself anytime soon at all (if ever). Also, many folks have bought equipment set up for specific tasks that they end up not performing all that often. Chris H said to start up with a TS and a bench and then get started. Good advise as far as I am concerned. You need to better identify exactly what you are going to build because lots of the craft goods do not use some of the typical cabinet/furniture oriented equipment that you have indicated you want to buy. A garage shop gets small with a bunch of equipment (on rollers most likely) cuts into assembly/finishing space. Used can be a good way to get started while you are figuring out which specific direction to go because there have been many folks before you that have bought a bunch of equipment/tools that they figured out they don't want to use.

[Edward Henry]

My main aim worry about used is lack of knowledge on upkeep and repairs I figured with NEW items I would learn what was needed before it really needed repairs.

Router? Just the router or a router plunger combo? Router table?

220v I had planed to try and get cost on running a sub panel for 3-4 220 outlets around the garage but I only have a 100 breaker box in the house so that will need to be upgraded to 200. And get the garage lights on a separate breaker so if I do trip a breaker with the tools I won't be in the dark.

what is VFD? I read about 3 phase tools but no idea what 3 phase and single phase means.


Start with the Grizzly 1023 Table saw and a simple solid workbench IMHO. The rest will sort itself out over time. Some things are astonishing values used, such as well maintained older drill presses and scroll saws. Some things do not depreciate much, such as 8 inch jointers.

Buying things once and buying quality is much better than buying anything cheap.

If you buy a router the Bosch 1617evs is nice because you can slow it down and run larger router bits.

Learn to do things with hand tools, it can be very rewarding.

Don't worry too much about what other people think, build what you want and enjoy yourself.

If possible, I would put 220 in the shop. It will open...or build...a lot of doors.

You say you don't like the Idea of used but a VFD will allow you to run three phase motors of single phase power, three phase equipment can be often had very economically.

The fewer tools you can get by with to an extent the better. Gadgets don't solve problems or build things, rational thinking and acquired skills do.

Bandsaws are the most under rated tool you can have, also the most frustrating if your not patient and willing to work with them.

[Rick Malakoff]

Edward,
I'm not going to repeat what has been said already because it's sound advice. There is nothing wrong with being frugal, sooner or later everything is going to be on sale or you find a good deal on used equipment. It would be different if you had a contract for many thousands of dollars and needed the machinery post haste. HD or Loews are a good place to start for an air compressor and nail guns and you don't have to spend a bunch sometimes the have a package deal so look around and don't rush.

Rick

[Edward Henry]

I was told to get a large 30 gallon Air Compressor to insure I always have enough air for a project and blowing off the workshop area and tools.

(Chris Hachet) Why the $1,295.00 - $1,655 G1023RL, RLW, RLWX, or RLX over the $895.00 G0715P? is the cheaper one too low in quality for a small wood shop? Does this mean my Choice in $450 Drill Press and $895 Bandsaw need to be raised to the $1,000+ ones for better quality or future proofing as I learn more? I am rapidly beginning to think I should just forget this until I can sell this house and buy a bigger property in AZ to build a dedicated 25'x25' shop.

[Rick Malakoff]

Edward, maybe you should wait until you move, no reason to pay to have it moved. Moving expenses are high and I'm guessing you have to pay for delivery to your present location.

Rick

[Matt Day]

Here's an argument for not buying it all at once. What if you buy $4k worth of equipment then find out you don't like batch cutting parts for craft fair shows for $500 a month (don't forget about cost of materials, your time, and time at the craft show)?

If I were you, I'd figure out what you want to make/sell, and only get the tools you need for that. When you decide to make other items, buy those tools.

There's not much money in woodworking, and maxing out 2 credit cards for tools doesn't sound like a good financial investment.

I don't want to discourage you getting into the hobby, but leaping in like this could be a bad move. I strongly suggest you look to buy used to save some money. Even brand new tools need adjusting and setting up (jointer needs tables and cutterhead aligned and fence squared, same as what a good used machine would need). Woodworking is therapudic for many of us, but it wouldn't be for me if I knew I was in CC debt because of it.

[Jim Becker]

I'm going to make an alternative suggestion to you for startup, especially given you will be moving soon...pick a woodworking specialty to get going, such as turning or scrolling since you can stay compact for the moment and get the relaxation and satisfaction you want to help with your personal therapy "now" while saving up a little and also learning more about tools and tool choices between now and when you have the larger space. IMHO, buying quality always trumps price. In fact, long time members here know that I've often said something to the effect, "The most expensive tools are the ones you buy early and often". In other words, quality costs less in the long run, despite a little higher initial cost.

Again, consider this as an alternative to getting a bunch of stuff for a fixed amount of money that you may not be happy with in the long run.

[Chris Hachet]

I was told to get a large 30 gallon Air Compressor to insure I always have enough air for a project and blowing off the workshop area and tools.

(Chris Hachet) Why the $1,295.00 - $1,655 G1023RL, RLW, RLWX, or RLX over the $895.00 G0715P? is the cheaper one too low in quality for a small wood shop? Does this mean my Choice in $450 Drill Press and $895 Bandsaw need to be raised to the $1,000+ ones for better quality or future proofing as I learn more? I am rapidly beginning to think I should just forget this until I can sell this house and buy a bigger property in AZ to build a dedicated 25'x25' shop.

I like a little heavier saw and three horsepower really works nicely. I would not spend $450 on a drill press new, $450 carefully spent used will get you a drill press you would have trouble buying new at a much higher price. For slightly more than the $895 I bought a used Powermatic 87 bandsaw. It sold new for almost ten thousand dollars the last time it was available new...a Powermatic 87 will cut quarter inch thick steel without slowing down...it weighs 1300 pounds...it is unreal what you can buy in the used market.

Actually I would spend Less and take your time to find really good equipment used and then get comfortable with each piece one at a time. For a drill press a nice heavy duty bench top unit can be found under a hundred dollars. A nice used American made Delta 14 inch band saw can still be found for four or five hundred dollars and will beat any newer saw short of say a $1500 Laguna.

You can blow down the shop with an electric leaf blower, a corded one is very cheap.

Your equipment will eventually need repair and calibration, you might as well learn about it buying it used and setting it up.

Skill set is much more important than which tools you use.

[Paul Bryan]

I made a lot of stuff, including full size cabinets, with a $300 (brand new) tiny dewalt table saw, a bosch router, a cheap circular saw, and a cheap jig saw. Over time I started to upgrade and add to that, but still don't have everything on your list. You don't really need a jointer or planer, unless you are making items that require odd thickness... Just use S4S lumber, it costs a little more than rough, but you'd have to work through alot of lumber to pay for a jointer and planer. Especially if you aren't 100% sure this is for you.

Also, there is more than $1000 in 2 workbenches on that quote! Buy a table saw and some wood and make your own benches! you don't need $300 maple tops, there are plenty of plans on the internet for workbenches, many use MDF and /or hardboard on top, way cheaper (like 10% of the cost of those maples tops). Will work just fine for almost anything you'd use them for...

[Edward Henry]

I have been strongly considering a Dewalt 20" scroll saw.

The move is at the very least 5-8 years off IF I rush pay off my new 30 year mortgage by spending every free dollar on paying it off ASAP. In reality


I'm going to make an alternative suggestion to you for startup, especially given you will be moving soon...pick a woodworking specialty to get going, such as turning or scrolling since you can stay compact for the moment and get the relaxation and satisfaction you want to help with your personal therapy "now" while saving up a little and also learning more about tools and tool choices between now and when you have the larger space. IMHO, buying quality always trumps price. In fact, long time members here know that I've often said something to the effect, "The most expensive tools are the ones you buy early and often". In other words, quality costs less in the long run, despite a little higher initial cost.

I am hoping the tools would be quality enough to sell with minimal loss IF I did not like the obby as much as I THINK I will.

Again, consider this as an alternative to getting a bunch of stuff for a fixed amount of money that you may not be happy with in the long run.

[Chris Hachet]

Edward, maybe you should wait until you move, no reason to pay to have it moved. Moving expenses are high and I'm guessing you have to pay for delivery to your present location.

Rick

Or start out with a simple table saw and a simple bench... Actually with a decent bench he could buy a Festool track saw and a Festool jig saw. You could move a simple bench and the track saw/jigsaw combo in a Fiat 500 or Mini Cooper....

[Chris Hachet]

Here's an argument for not buying it all at once. What if you buy $4k worth of equipment then find out you don't like batch cutting parts for craft fair shows for $500 a month (don't forget about cost of materials, your time, and time at the craft show)?

If I were you, I'd figure out what you want to make/sell, and only get the tools you need for that. When you decide to make other items, buy those tools.

There's not much money in woodworking, and maxing out 2 credit cards for tools doesn't sound like a good financial investment.

I don't want to discourage you getting into the hobby, but leaping in like this could be a bad move. I strongly suggest you look to buy used to save some money. Even brand new tools need adjusting and setting up (jointer needs tables and cutterhead aligned and fence squared, same as what a good used machine would need). Woodworking is therapudic for many of us, but it wouldn't be for me if I knew I was in CC debt because of it.Agree on the debt thing... that is the nice part about buying used...it often forces you to pay Cash.

[Chris Hachet]

I made a lot of stuff, including full size cabinets, with a $300 (brand new) tiny dewalt table saw, a bosch router, a cheap circular saw, and a cheap jig saw. Over time I started to upgrade and add to that, but still don't have everything on your list. You don't really need a jointer or planer, unless you are making items that require odd thickness... Just use S4S lumber, it costs a little more than rough, but you'd have to work through alot of lumber to pay for a jointer and planer. Especially if you aren't 100% sure this is for you.

Also, there is more than $1000 in 2 workbenches on that quote! Buy a table saw and some wood and make your own benches! you don't need $300 maple tops, there are plenty of plans on the internet for workbenches, many use MDF and /or hardboard on top, way cheaper (like 10% of the cost of those maples tops). Will work just fine for almost anything you'd use them for...Sounds a lot like what I spent several years doing.

[Chris Hachet]

I have been strongly considering a Dewalt 20" scroll saw.

The move is at the very least 5-8 years off IF I rush pay off my new 30 year mortgage by spending every free dollar on paying it off ASAP. In reality Scroll saws are an excellent buy on the used market. Mine would have been over $700 new, it was $150 used with $100 worth of blades, several books, and some lumber thrown in.

One of my woodworking friends made a lot of nice things with his...

[Chris Hachet]

My main aim worry about used is lack of knowledge on upkeep and repairs I figured with NEW items I would learn what was needed before it really needed repairs.

Router? Just the router or a router plunger combo? Router table?

220v I had planed to try and get cost on running a sub panel for 3-4 220 outlets around the garage but I only have a 100 breaker box in the house so that will need to be upgraded to 200. And get the garage lights on a separate breaker so if I do trip a breaker with the tools I won't be in the dark.

what is VFD? I read about 3 phase tools but no idea what 3 phase and single phase means.

Variable frequency drive. Google TECO FM 50 and watch some YouTube videos.

One 220 circuit probably would run fine off of your 100 amp panel. It is not like you will be running 5 or 6 machines at once any time soon. Many electricians do side work. Adding one 220 circuit should be fairly simple.

As for router tables, depends on what you want to build once you build some things. Right now I am busy building guitars because a good friend of mine enjoys building them. What you build will change and evolve over time. Start with a variable speed router with both 1/2 and 1/4 inch collets. This will allow you to run a really wide variety of bits.

Very simple home made router table can be built for about $15, should work fine until you figure out what you want.

[Edward Henry]

I want to thank everyone for their patience and helpful information.

I am fighting hard to not go to Grizzly on Monday and at least pick up the Scroll Saw to learn Intarsia LOL.

What about Drill Driver combos and what Battery amp hours should I buy extra as the combos come with small batteries.

[Chris Hachet]

Trying to decide on an air compressor and 18 & 23 guage air nailers, a drill/driver set and such as well. I am itching to buy soon and I can get 90% of the stuff I want at Grizzly right now but will max out 2 credit cards. But if It is my best option I will go in Monday and place my order.

for now I have a Dewalt 10" table saw to use and saving for a Grizzly G0715PIf you already have the DeWalt 10 inch a track saw can be a really nice compliment to that. Getting that and a nice HEPA vac would save you from buying a full dust collection system for awhile.

[David Eisenhauer]

Pawn shops are full of pancake compressors and air nailers/staplers. Air driven nails and staples do not use much volume of air and a pancake compressor takes up a lot less room than a 30 gal job. Nothing wrong with a larger unit, but it is something that can be added later when your shop layout is planned out and settled and if you decide that you really need more air volume. Save some money for the associated hand tools, power tools and clamps you may need to buy in addition to the stationary equipment. The two-three folks I have known over the years that targeted the summer fair/festival craft good circuit used their miter saws, routers (with patterns), band saws and scroll saws almost exclusively as compared to planers, joiners and table saws.

[Mike Manning]

Edward,
I'm going to throw my $0.02 out here only because I really haven't seen anyone address it. I understand the hesitancy about buying used tools given you're new to woodworking but the quality and craftsmanship of the older American made tools is outstanding and most can be found in plug and play condition (meaning they don't need any work before you use them) and the price point is almost always going to be cheaper than buying new tools made overseas that generally don't come close to approaching the same level of quality and craftsmanship. Check out the classified ad sections at VintageMachinery.org and owwm.org and even post your own WTB (Want To Buy) ad there explaining your situation. You'll find there are a lot of good woodworkers out there who will be happy to help you out. Good luck!

Mike

[Igor Vasilenko]

Edward,
I'm going to throw my $0.02 out here only because I really haven't seen anyone address it. I understand the hesitancy about buying used tools given you're new to woodworking but the quality and craftsmanship of the older American made tools is outstanding and most can be found in plug and play condition (meaning they don't need any work before you use them) and the price point is almost always going to be cheaper than buying new tools made overseas that generally don't come close to approaching the same level of quality and craftsmanship. Check out the classified ad sections at VintageMachinery.org and owwm.org and even post your own WTB (Want To Buy) ad there explaining your situation. You'll find there are a lot of good woodworkers out there who will be happy to help you out. Good luck!

Mike

+1 What Mike said. Once you get a nice older machine and get a feel for how these tools were designed and built to last, you won't ever look back. Then as you start to use these classic machines, you'll be hooked! Many of the new "benchtop" machines will then feel like what they are - overpriced and underbuilt.

Don't be discouraged by the higher cost of good new tools - as Mike said, post on this or and any other wood forum explaining what you are looking for, and chances are you'll be surprised at the selection of good used iron, great and small. That's how I built my shop.

[Bill Dufour]

Do not buy a oil-less compressor. they are loud and burn out soon. Get an old belt driven one. Do not use PVc to run airlines.
Most woodworking tools have very little to go wrong. Ball bearings can be replaced easy enough. Unless parts are broken all the adjustment mechanisms last pretty much forever.
Bill D.

[Mark Gibney]

I read through this thread and there is a lot of good advice on here. I would add this - try to find a woodworking school near you, and go take classes. You'll find out what you like doing, and what tools you really need, and you can make pieces for the market. There'll be more experienced and less experienced woodworkers there than you and you'll learn from and with them all (I obviously don't know how much woodworking you've done, but we can all learn more).

Even check with the closest Rockler or Woodcraft store to see if they have any demonstrations on weekends. Google to find a woodworking and / or turning club in your area.

And I would second what some people have suggested - get some tools, maybe a track saw, make your own bench, even if it has a layered plywood top, get any vise for it, some Gramercy Tool hold downs, and start making sawdust. And post a photo of how it's going on here now and again.

[Roy Turbett]

Edward,
I'm going to throw my $0.02 out here only because I really haven't seen anyone address it. I understand the hesitancy about buying used tools given you're new to woodworking but the quality and craftsmanship of the older American made tools is outstanding and most can be found in plug and play condition (meaning they don't need any work before you use them) and the price point is almost always going to be cheaper than buying new tools made overseas that generally don't come close to approaching the same level of quality and craftsmanship. Check out the classified ad sections at VintageMachinery.org and owwm.org and even post your own WTB (Want To Buy) ad there explaining your situation. You'll find there are a lot of good woodworkers out there who will be happy to help you out. Good luck!

Mike

+1 on buying old woodworking machines. Check out OWWM,org and you'll find a group of guys that are more than willing to help you restore and/or fine tune machines that are frequently higher quality and lower cost than you can buy new. If you're like me, you'll enjoy restoring an old machine as much as you will enjoy using it.

[Chris Hachet]

+1 on buying old woodworking machines. Check out OWWM,org and you'll find a group of guys that are more than willing to help you restore and/or fine tune machines that are frequently higher quality and lower cost than you can buy new. If you're like me, you'll enjoy restoring an old machine as much as you will enjoy using it.Repairing machinery and woodworking use similar skill sets, you will grow mentally by doing both.

This is also why I am thinking floor model vs lunch box planer, I want to learn the skill set involved with repairing and running planers.

[Matt Day]

In this case I would suggest not buying vintage machines, as much as I hate to say it. He said he wanted to buy new so he didn't have to work on anything, and we're suggesting a vintage machine with no warranty, may need restoration or fixing up, parts possibly hard to find?

One of the great things about buying used is when it's time to upgrade you don't loose as much, if any, money when you sell the old machinery.

[Chris Hachet]

I want to thank everyone for their patience and helpful information.

I am fighting hard to not go to Grizzly on Monday and at least pick up the Scroll Saw to learn Intarsia LOL.

What about Drill Driver combos and what Battery amp hours should I buy extra as the combos come with small batteries.I want to thank you for your enthusiasm and passion, and your fine service to our country. We could use a few more people like you in the woodworking community!

Go to Grizzy and pick up a Scroll saw if you wish, you have exactly, exactly the right thinking here in terms of getting one tool, getting it set up and dialed in just the way you want it, learning the techniques involved, and then moving on to the next one. I would just suggest that there are amazing deals used on Scroll saws especially...I have seen a lot of stuff that sells for $700-$800 new sell for $100-$200 used. And as I suggested, you often get blades and tooling when you buy used equipment.

I got several hundred dollars in top end blades when I bought my (previous) used table saw. The blades new woudl ahve easily exceeded what I paid for the used saw, so the table saw was essentially free.

Grizzly has fantastic customer service and are a really seemingly decent ethical company so there is no harm buying from them new either. We want to support the right kind of companies in woodworking, and Grizzly is one group I want very much to see survive and thrive. Good luck, and I think a Scroll saw is an excellent place for you to begin. My old friend Rich made a good bit of money selling Scrolls aw items just as you want to do, and he had a fairly basic wood shop.

[Chris Hachet]

I want to thank everyone for their patience and helpful information.

I am fighting hard to not go to Grizzly on Monday and at least pick up the Scroll Saw to learn Intarsia LOL.

What about Drill Driver combos and what Battery amp hours should I buy extra as the combos come with small batteries.I would buck what a lot of other people here would tell you and what you are probably thinking-get a small light weight drill that is easy to carry around and easy to maneuver. I like the Bosch drills myself, and have gotten excellent service over the better part of a decade out of two small 12 volt Bosch.

My drill set up is-

2 Small Bosch 12 volt drills. Having two allows me to set them up differently for different tasks and not have to change bits...making pocket hole joints, I use one for the drill bit and one for the driver bit.

1 Corded electric drill, kept at the bench so I am not running down and wearing out by more fragile Battery drills. Also a lot more torque than the battery drills. I paid $25 for a really nice one on closeout.

1 Taiwanese very heavy duty bench top drill press, I paid $50 used. New would probably be over $500 for something of this quality...

1 1942 Buffalo model 18 drill press, floor mdoel. It weighs probably 500 pounds, very heavy duty. Free, rescued it at the last moment from a 100 year old building that was about to be torn down.

I have about $250-$300 in a set up that does everything I could possibly ask of it.

You mention spending $450 for a new drill press, a little bit more and you could buy a really heavy duty Clausing or Powermatic that would be an absolute beast. The advantage of buying really heavy duty tools like this is not only in the use you get from them, but in the fact that you can almost always resell them for what you bought them for or more if you want to change things up or your interests change.

I would avoid Porter cable drills as they ahve really cheapened their product lately.

If you are not going all in on heavier duty tools, you might consider spending a little bit more and getting a Festool drill. Festool has excellent resale, you will get fantastic service from the tool, it will come with a very nice case that will help you keep your shop organized, and parts and service are readily available. Plus there are a certain amount of bragging rights with a high end tool, and the Festool fans have a very active woodworking forum...

[Chris Hachet]

In this case I would suggest not buying vintage machines, as much as I hate to say it. He said he wanted to buy new so he didn't have to work on anything, and we're suggesting a vintage machine with no warranty, may need restoration or fixing up, parts possibly hard to find?

One of the great things about buying used is when it's time to upgrade you don't loose as much, if any, money when you sell the old machinery.Depends on the vintage machine. There is a certain amount of "how to think" in woodworking, and part of building something IMHO is having the mindset of checking all of your options and leaving yourself several paths to get things done. We don't know what he will find if he looks...he might find nothing, he might find a mint vintage Powermatic 66 Table saw for $400.

The important thing is that mentally he is keeping his options open and considering multiple possibilities of reaching the same goal IMHO. When I build a piece of furniture I don't cut eighty pieces to exact size all at once, I allow the lumber to acclimate and leave my options open in terms of things like grain match, color match, how straight each piece of wood is, weather or not the wood is quarter sawn or rift sawn or flat sawn...etc...

[Chris Hachet]

I read through this thread and there is a lot of good advice on here. I would add this - try to find a woodworking school near you, and go take classes. You'll find out what you like doing, and what tools you really need, and you can make pieces for the market. There'll be more experienced and less experienced woodworkers there than you and you'll learn from and with them all (I obviously don't know how much woodworking you've done, but we can all learn more).

Even check with the closest Rockler or Woodcraft store to see if they have any demonstrations on weekends. Google to find a woodworking and / or turning club in your area.

And I would second what some people have suggested - get some tools, maybe a track saw, make your own bench, even if it has a layered plywood top, get any vise for it, some Gramercy Tool hold downs, and start making sawdust. And post a photo of how it's going on here now and again.I would add, find other local woodworkers in your area and learn from them. Woodworkers as a group are usually very happy to help people.

Also, I know I have added a billion posts in this thread, but a little more "free" advice-

#1. Surf some woodworking shop tours on YouTube. It should become really obvious that woodworking shops work best as they evolve over time-I find it really cool how each shop "adapts" to the woodworker using it.

#2. One more reason not to go out and buy everything all at once-space! Even if you did have your 25 x 25 dream shop, it could become a really inefficient and unpleasant place to work if you had a lot of tools that were not well adapted to what you were doing or were seldom used.

If you find yourself building decks and gazebos, you will want a lot of space for processing large quantities of lumber before it goes out on a job site.

If you find yourself building a lot of small craft items, you will need space for packaging, shipping, finishing, storing completed product, et al.

If you find yourself building musical instruments you will need a small bench with a highly focused hand tool area and lots of small hand tools like rasps, files, small hand planes and the like.

If you find yourself building wooden kayaks and canoes, you will want bench space for long parts.

If you find yourself turning a lot of stuff, you will want good dust collection and perhaps a really heavy duty band saw for cutting things like bowl blanks out of green lumber.

[Jim Becker]

I have been strongly considering a Dewalt 20" scroll saw.

The move is at the very least 5-8 years off IF I rush pay off my new 30 year mortgage by spending every free dollar on paying it off ASAP. In reality

Thanks for clarifying the move timeline. Were I you, I'd still consider starting simpler rather than trying to buy everything at once. It's so easy to get into a "tool rut" that's expensive to dig out of. I say this from direct experience, too. When I first started woodworking...and that was prior to having great resources like SMC to gain knowledge from...I made a bunch of purchases, some of which didn't survive to "shop v2.0" and gained little financial benefit when I sold those tools to acquire more capable equipment. I'm now at "shop v4.1" for a few years now and finally can say that I'm satisfied with all the big stuff. Anything I buy now is small and specialized...largely hand tools and cutters, etc.

If you want to do flat work like you describe in your first post, a quality table saw and a thickness planer should be first on your investments along with some basic hand tools. You can add a bandsaw to that mix if you can fund it. You don't "need" a jointer initially and I caution you about buying something too small, even for craft work, because once you transition to buying rough lumber, you're going to want to flatten material before using the thickness planer. Yes, you can use a sled for that in the planer, but at some point, having a jointer comes in handy. Initially, you can buy S4S lumber and just reduce thickness for smaller projects using the thickness planer since craft work often goes below 3/4" or below 1/2". It costs a little more for material, but again, that's just at the beginning. Invest in a really good miter gage for the table saw and hold off on the jointer until you can buy a good one. Personally, I'm not terribly comfortable with buying "stationary" woodworking tools from the home centers. The stuff they carry isn't anything like they used to stock...chalk that up on how the "big box" marketplace has evolved to a "low price" mentality. I'd surely opt for the Grizzly tools (either their green tools or the white ShopFox brand) over most things from the 'borg.

Others have already given good advise relative to a drill press. It's an incidental tool and you don't need to spend a fortune for one. While mine gets use, that is a hole here and a hole there, rather than with any kind of frequency, and quite often it's only for things like larger forstner bits or a fly cutter that require using a drill press for safety. I wouldn't hesitate buying one used, either...or even (gasp!) from Harbor Freight. It's one of the few stationary tools I'd buy from such a discounter, as a matter of fact. (Their air nailers are also liked by hobbyist woodworkers, too)

But again, there's no harm in picking one small aspect of woodworking to get started as I originally recommended. Given part of your reason for wanting to engage in this creative hobby, I can assure you that there's nothing more satisfying to the mind than turning where you see something develop in front of your eyes. It's mesmerizing and addictive!

[Matt Day]

Chris,
He's just staring out. I don't don't think he needs a Festool track saw and Festool cordless drill. I think you just enjoy spending peoples money!
If he had money to burn yes, splurge on some green stuff, but he's already talking about maxing out 2 CC's. I've been doing this for a dozen years and have gotten by without anything Festool or a track saw. Those are things to buy once you're established, or have the means to do so up front.

For a case like this Harbor Freight is an excellent choice, as Jim has mentioned, for things like: drill press, nail guns, drills, angle grinders, compressors, etc.

[Chris Hachet]

Chris,
He's just staring out. I don't don't think he needs a Festool track saw and Festool cordless drill. I think you just enjoy spending peoples money!
If he had money to burn yes, splurge on some green stuff, but he's already talking about maxing out 2 CC's. I've been doing this for a dozen years and have gotten by without anything Festool or a track saw. Those are things to buy once you're established, or have the means to do so up front.

For a case like this Harbor Freight is an excellent choice, as Jim has mentioned, for things like: drill press, nail guns, drills, angle grinders, compressors, etc.

I understand that he is just starting out. I also really dislike buying from harbor freight for a number of reasons.

My thinking is, buy it once and use it forever. A Festool track saw and jig saw combined are about a grand, roughly. Combined with his current table saw and a nice used scrolls saw, he might get by several more years of woodworking with very minimal additional purchases.

The other advantages of companies like Festool and Lie Nielsen and the like are excellent resale and excellent customer service.

Furthermore, he suggested portability and the desire to move at some point, a track saw and jig saw would be very easily movable.

Just my thinking.

[Chris Hachet]

Chris,


For a case like this Harbor Freight is an excellent choice, as Jim has mentioned, for things like: drill press, nail guns, drills, angle grinders, compressors, etc.

I will give you harbor freight for things like nail guns and compressors.

Even for someone starting out, I think a few extra dollars for a company like Bosh will pay off for drills.

For drill presses, craigslist and woodworking sites are littered with decent older stuff that is much more robust than anything at Harbor Freight. I have found many of the cheaper drill presses frustrating to use.

[Edward Henry]

Between my PTSD, MDD and obsessive nature I have been fretting over over a small garage wood shop for over a year now but have a severe case of buyers paralysis due to trying to decide what tools were absolutely must haves, what to get first through last, then what brand is best to get etc. and the more questions I ask reviews and forums I read the more confused I get. Right when I think I will go buy something I read or hear something to change my mind. I have no wood working, Scrolling, turning clubs in my area that I am aware of, one moment I am set on heading out to just buy a bandsaw and drill press 10 min later deciding to get a work table and scroll saw instead 5 min later something else. Grizzly has shown me that for the small space I have 19' x 21' (with desire to still park car in garage) that outside of the Drill Press, Tablesaw, and bandsaw being floor models that the rest of my tools like planer, jointer (in case I wish to try gluing multi colors of wood together) sanding station with down draft table, etc can be bench models that I could get a good start and learning ability with them. Scroll saw has always been on my mind to get but then I can not decide on what type of sanding machines to get, disk, belt, oscillating....

I have waited and put off for so long I am almost at a stage I can buy the whole shop on credit cards and have it payed off in 2 years and avoid the buyers paralysis.


I want to thank you for your enthusiasm and passion, and your fine service to our country. We could use a few more people like you in the woodworking community!

Go to Grizzy and pick up a Scroll saw if you wish, you have exactly, exactly the right thinking here in terms of getting one tool, getting it set up and dialed in just the way you want it, learning the techniques involved, and then moving on to the next one. I would just suggest that there are amazing deals used on Scroll saws especially...I have seen a lot of stuff that sells for $700-$800 new sell for $100-$200 used. And as I suggested, you often get blades and tooling when you buy used equipment.

I got several hundred dollars in top end blades when I bought my (previous) used table saw. The blades new woudl ahve easily exceeded what I paid for the used saw, so the table saw was essentially free.

Grizzly has fantastic customer service and are a really seemingly decent ethical company so there is no harm buying from them new either. We want to support the right kind of companies in woodworking, and Grizzly is one group I want very much to see survive and thrive. Good luck, and I think a Scroll saw is an excellent place for you to begin. My old friend Rich made a good bit of money selling Scrolls aw items just as you want to do, and he had a fairly basic wood shop.

[Chris Hachet]

Between my PTSD, MDD and obsessive nature I have been fretting over over a small garage wood shop for over a year now but have a severe case of buyers paralysis due to trying to decide what tools were absolutely must haves, what to get first through last, then what brand is best to get etc. and the more questions I ask reviews and forums I read the more confused I get. Right when I think I will go buy something I read or hear something to change my mind. I have no wood working, Scrolling, turning clubs in my area that I am aware of, one moment I am set on heading out to just buy a bandsaw and drill press 10 min later deciding to get a work table and scroll saw instead 5 min later something else. Grizzly has shown me that for the small space I have 19' x 21' (with desire to still park car in garage) that outside of the Drill Press, Tablesaw, and bandsaw being floor models that the rest of my tools like planer, jointer (in case I wish to try gluing multi colors of wood together) sanding station with down draft table, etc can be bench models that I could get a good start and learning ability with them. Scroll saw has always been on my mind to get but then I can not decide on what type of sanding machines to get, disk, belt, oscillating....

I have waited and put off for so long I am almost at a stage I can buy the whole shop on credit cards and have it payed off in 2 years and avoid the buyers paralysis.If that is what you wish to do you have no judgement or hard feelings from me whatsoever. Just keep in mind that wood shops evolve constantly and your workshop may be very different in one year, two years, five years...and there is nothing wrong with that whatsoever.

I have a paralysis by analysis and overthinking issue myself. When you have questions about your new tools, post them here, this is an absolutely fantastic group of people to learn from.

Best of luck and pics of your new tools when you get them set up, please!

[Edward Henry]

Well one of my driving factors in wanting a wood shop is that I do (Learning) pyrography (Woodburning) and the cost of BASS wood at Michaels, Hobby Lobby etc. is nuts so I figured I could make my own designs, shapes and thickness wood for the hobby, then I got an interest in learning scroll work, and THEN drooled over CNC Router abilities..... thus grew the obsession.
360124360125360126

[Chris Hachet]

Well one of my driving factors in wanting a wood shop is that I do (Learning) pyrography (Woodburning) and the cost of BASS wood at Michaels, Hobby Lobby etc. is nuts so I figured I could make my own designs, shapes and thickness wood for the hobby, then I got an interest in learning scroll work, and THEN drooled over CNC Router abilities..... thus grew the obsession.
360124360125360126I think you have a bright future ahead of you as a wood worker. You certainly don't lack passion!

[Edward Henry]

I went out to Grizzly to pick up the Dewalt Scroll saw and stand with light combo but did not get it I was informed it would be about $100 less during their Tent sale June 3rd

SO I will wait again

[Jim Becker]

Just keep in mind that wood shops evolve constantly and your workshop may be very different in one year, two years, five years...and there is nothing wrong with that whatsoever.

This is sage advise! As I mentioned, I'm on "shop v4.1" at this point, starting from v1.0 in about 1996-7 or so. :)

[Edward Henry]

I have no doubt I will modify several times as my skills and interest change, I just want a starting point I can afford and fit into the Garage for now.

[Steve Reich]

My main aim worry about used is lack of knowledge on upkeep and repairs I figured with NEW items I would learn what was needed before it really needed repairs.

I started my own shop about 4 years ago, and built it almost entirely by Craigslist, pawn shops, and estate sales. One of the advantages of used (other than getting good machines for prices that enabled me to build a shop much quicker than had I relied only on new equipment) was that it forced me to learn how the machines operated. Used equipment requires some initial tuning, and in doing that, I learned a lot about the machines and then how to adjust them or repair them when needed. I ended up a lot more knowledgeable that way.

I also agree to start with a TS. Then use it to build yourself a good, flat, and solid work bench. There are a lot of good table saws for sale on Craigslist. Be choosy and patient and the right one will come along. Everybody I have dealt with on Craigslist in the tools section have been honest and kind. Then acquire tools out from there as you need. Do you really air compressor today? I didn't get that until I redid our stair case and installed new custom-made trim (thank you local pawn shop). You may have different needs that justify earlier acquisition.

There are a lot of good articles on ranking tools 1-10 for starting a shop. None of these are "right." But read a few of them and see what rationale they offer for why such and such a tool is an essential starter tool and why others are not. Then think about your own needs and develop a strategy from there. I even saw one video when I first started that argued---somewhat convincingly---that all you really need is a jig saw. And don't overlook the importance of some good hand and smaller power tools. I went a long time without decent wrenches, drill bits, chisels, impact driver, squares for marking, and clamps, clamps, clamps, and more clamps. Some small investments made a huge difference in the ease of various tasks.

The last thing that I would advise is to be patient and slowly build your shop to meet the projects that you are doing. Get to know each tool that you add to shop and have fun.

[David Eisenhauer]

If you want to go towards the craft end of woodworking, a scroll saw is a very good way to get started. Get that, bang up some type of work bench out of HD/Lowes construction lumber and get started. Let it all develop as it comes along. Best of luck.

[Bill Serino]

My 2 cents and a first post here as well.

First off I would not recommend maxing out any type of CC. Pay it off in 2 years... yeah, not really. Why? Because life happens and now you just took away a safety net and lost wiggle room and that 2 years becomes 3, becomes 4, becomes 5, add another CC , piles on, etc etc etc...

If possible, try and sell some stuff you've accumulated to help fund your wood working tool purchases. You'd be surprised what people will buy. Between, eBay, facebook etc you can make some extra cash selling all kinds of little things. If you are set on putting something on credit, don't max anything out and keep it to 1 item that you can start using right away.

With that said, you stated that you have a 10" DeWalt TS? My suggestion is that you build a table saw bench/table to put that table saw in. It'll make it much more user friendly and give you some experience in building something that requires a fair degree of precision.

Don't over think the required tools for this. A corded drill of any major brand will suffice. A drill bit set, always pre-drill holes for your screws. Don't split your wood. I am just gonna assume you don't have much experience in building stuff, no offense. Stay away from standard and Phillips head screws, get star/allen head screws. You will be much less frustrated.

I suggest that you don't buy any kind of pre-built bench. Take the time to research what you think you need, the space you have available and take construction grade lumber and build it. It'll be a great learning experience and give you the satisfaction of creating something start to finish and fit your space. It'll also be much much cheaper than trying to buy something new.

You've mentions a ton of tools but in reality you don't need just about any of it for the stuff you are talking about doing to start with. Buying tools is fun though...

You want to get into pyrography? Do you have any art experience? I do and doing it on wood is much harder than doing it on paper. I suggest you get a cheap little solder iron/wood burning pen and get some scrap and just practice. You want this to be a relaxing venture but you better understand that if you approach this the wrong way it will be anything but relaxing.

If you really want a scroll saw do it and practice on cheap scrap wood.

Do you need a drill press? Sure doesn't sound like it. A corded drill is cheaper and fine for now and more versatile.

Do you need a jointer? Sure doesn't sound like it. Buy S2S or S4S wood. Clean up on a table saw, make a jig to help and get the experience of making the jig.

Do you really need a dust collector? Sure doesn't sound like it. A shop vac and an open garage door will suffice.

Do you need a 30 gal air compressor? Not at all. Like mentioned, a leaf blower and a shop vac will suffice. If you need to blow out fine areas on a piece and need high pressure compressed air, get a small, couple gallon compressor if after a while you realize you really need one.

Why do you need a brad nailer? You haven't mentioned what you will be doing with this? They are useful and fun but for what? You don't need a 30gal for a brad nailer.

Do you need a bandsaw? Are you going to be resawing a bunch of stock? A table, clamp and a jig saw can do most any rough cutting.

Do you need a planer? Right now? Probably not. See the same reasons for the jointer.

A sander? Yeah, that may be more useful than most that other stuff since you want to cut rounds etc.

Router? Yes, might as well get one with a plunger base now. Don't worry about a table right now. You can get away with a cheap 3/4-1hp router with no plunger base and get a feel for it before you buy something bigger for a table.

You have a table saw, make a table for it. If nothing else, make an out feed table for it.

I think a good miter saw is a must personally but that depends again on what you plan on doing.

Build a simple workbench.

Done and thousands of dollars saved.

You've made some comments that come across that you may not understand or be ready to drop a lot of money on this. So don't. Start very small and keep it cheap. You mention just holding off on all of this until you move... then clarify that that is not even for 8 plus years... That is 8 plus years of experience you'd miss out on. Research is good, smart purchases are good, I agree with why you want to buy new. But with what reads like no experience in wood working you should not max any credit cards. You won't just become an expert over night and be making $500 a month on crafts without a ton of work.

Work with what you have. Purchase a single higher priced item that you can begin to learn with now and do not buy anything else until you have paid that off. Remember the price of materials counts too. The time involved in building stuff is always way more than you may think.

Good luck and have fun.

[Rick Malakoff]

+1 I'm with Bill on that, great first post!
He just counted it down for you. My first saw was a De Walt 10'' contractors with an out feed table/workbench that was 1974 had to leave the saw in Florida at a friends and it is still going strong. Also I try to think of ways not to use a router every day.
Hay but what do I know I'm just another old guy who has been around the block too many times and at this point I try not to go around the same block over and over.

Rick

[Charles Lent]

Of all of my shop equipment (I have a complete cabinet shop) the tool that can produce the most profit on small craft type items is a good scroll saw. Certain scroll saw items are in high demand at craft shows. Compound cut (3D) items are unique and sell quickly. Soft cover books of patterns by Diana Thompson are some of what I am referring to, but there are other books of these patterns too. I can't make enough 3 1/2" high compound cut reindeer to satisfy the demand for them during the Christmas Season. I made 428 of them last year and they take me about 8 minutes to cut each one out. Compound cut Christmas Ornaments made from hardwoods are also in high demand. 2D Puzzles also sell well. A friend makes animal puzzles where, for instance, the shape is of a certain breed of dog with letters cut out within the dog's shape to spell out the type of dog or the owner's first name with each letter being a separate puzzle piece. Another friend prints photographs on photo quality paper and then bonds the photo to pieces of 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood, then cuts them to form puzzles. These can be photographs of anything, scenery, animals, etc. These are frequently made to order from the buyer's photographs.

To get a good scroll saw new you will likely spend $550 and more, but many people buy scroll saws and then loose interest in them quickly. After a few years of dust collection and them always being in the way, they end up on Craigslist at about 1/2 price or less. It's quite easy to buy a known brand and model that hasn't been abused (visible evidence of abuse is easy to see) and only has a few hours of actual use on it. I never buy a scroll saw new. Stick to a brand name saw that sells new for $550 and up, pay $250-350 and you will get a good saw at a great price, but make sure it has the stand with it. Most came with the stand when new. My present saw is a DeWalt 788 Type 1 that I purchased from craigslist for $300 with the light, stand, and a DeWalt bar type stool. All it needed was a little cleaning.

Project materials for much of my scroll sawing comes from my scrap bin, because most scroll saw projects only need very small pieces of wood. I have made some very nice scroll saw projects from clean pallet slats, planned and sanded smooth. I saw the slats close to the side and center uprights using a battery powered sawzall, so there are no nails to deal with in the pieces that I save. The uprights and the nails usually go in the trash. The pieces saved are 1/4 - 1/2" thick, 1-4" wide and about 1' long. They frequently are most any common American hardwoods. like Cherry, Ash, Birch, Oak, Poplar, and Alder have been in many of the pallets that I've cut apart. These pieces are perfect for many scroll saw projects. I made the attached dragon from pallet wood (two pieces joined and glued together) - the seam is horizontal through the clock) - see attachments for the dragon as well as some of the reindeer and ornaments.

Take your time and add tools to your shop as you need them and can afford them. If you can't afford a tool, figure out how to make the tool or jig that will work for you until you can afford a better tool to do that job. Don't spend a lot of money "up front" on tools that you think you will need. For years my router table was just a piece of 3/4 plywood with a hole for the router bit and bolt holes to mount my only fixed base 1 hp router. A 2 X 4 and 2 clamps served as the fence. My workbench was a Work Mate. At the time I was raising 4 kids and working 2 jobs. I had very little time or money for woodworking and I was adding onto my house by myself too. I had a couple of inherited hand saws, a level, a hand drill and a drill index, a 4" pad sander, and an inherited table saw that cut wherever it wanted to and not always where I wanted it to, but I could get my wood (usually cheap pine) to the approximate size with it and then plane it or sand it to get it the size that I wanted to. I also had a good variety of hand tools and rasps. A surform rasp was used frequently. Then I added a table top drill press, then a real router table and a plunge router. In woodworking there are many ways to do almost anything. Some are better than others, some are faster, or more accurate, but you can do almost anything that you want to with some very basic and a minimum of tools. It usually takes longer, but can be done. Starting with just the minimum and then adding as your skill level, finances, and needs increase will keep you from wasting money on tools that you may never need. Making jigs and fixtures as you need them will build your hand tool skills very quickly too. I made a bunch of small furniture, candle sconces, etc. with just these few hand and power tools, but learned a lot along the way.

If, somewhere in your future, you decide that woodworking is not for you, then you can go in another direction and you haven;t wasted a lot of time or money on expensive woodworking tools that you will likely only get back 1/2 of your investment or less for.

Good luck to you and whatever choices you make.

Charley

[Edward Henry]

Fantastic post thank you, I have a tendency to buy items for what I MIGHT do or need as much as what I do need. Did the same for my Astronomy/Astrophotography hobby.

I have no artistic skills that I know of, I joke that I can't draw a straight line with two rulers, those 3 examples of wood burning were the first projects I ever did between 10-15 years ago, I recently started getting interested in it again and have my old burner and a brand new Razertip SS-D10 but I also desire to shape my own boards.

I am trying to decide on a scroll saw between Dewalt DW788 20" or save longer and get an Excalibur EX-21 or EX-30 (I like that the head tilts and not the table)

I have several scroll saw pattern books from a yard sale, I have no clue what would sell or how to charge for a given item. I have always given them away as gifts because I have no idea what my projects, time, and materials are worth.

Very nice detailed work in your pictures. BTW how do you sand the inside cuts smooth or do you have too?


Of all of my shop equipment (I have a complete cabinet shop) the tool that can produce the most profit on small craft type items is a good scroll saw. Certain scroll saw items are in high demand at craft shows. Compound cut (3D) items are unique and sell quickly. Soft cover books of patterns by Diana Thompson are some of what I am referring to, but there are other books of these patterns too. I can't make enough 3 1/2" high compound cut reindeer to satisfy the demand for them during the Christmas Season. I made 428 of them last year and they take me about 8 minutes to cut each one out. Compound cut Christmas Ornaments made from hardwoods are also in high demand. 2D Puzzles also sell well. A friend makes animal puzzles where, for instance, the shape is of a certain breed of dog with letters cut out within the dog's shape to spell out the type of dog or the owner's first name with each letter being a separate puzzle piece. Another friend prints photographs on photo quality paper and then bonds the photo to pieces of 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood, then cuts them to form puzzles. These can be photographs of anything, scenery, animals, etc. These are frequently made to order from the buyer's photographs.

To get a good scroll saw new you will likely spend $550 and more, but many people buy scroll saws and then loose interest in them quickly. After a few years of dust collection and them always being in the way, they end up on Craigslist at about 1/2 price or less. It's quite easy to buy a known brand and model that hasn't been abused (visible evidence of abuse is easy to see) and only has a few hours of actual use on it. I never buy a scroll saw new. Stick to a brand name saw that sells new for $550 and up, pay $250-350 and you will get a good saw at a great price, but make sure it has the stand with it. Most came with the stand when new. My present saw is a DeWalt 788 Type 1 that I purchased from craigslist for $300 with the light, stand, and a DeWalt bar type stool. All it needed was a little cleaning.

Project materials for much of my scroll sawing comes from my scrap bin, because most scroll saw projects only need very small pieces of wood. I have made some very nice scroll saw projects from clean pallet slats, planned and sanded smooth. I saw the slats close to the side and center uprights using a battery powered sawzall, so there are no nails to deal with in the pieces that I save. The uprights and the nails usually go in the trash. The pieces saved are 1/4 - 1/2" thick, 1-4" wide and about 1' long. They frequently are most any common American hardwoods. like Cherry, Ash, Birch, Oak, Poplar, and Alder have been in many of the pallets that I've cut apart. These pieces are perfect for many scroll saw projects. I made the attached dragon from pallet wood (two pieces joined and glued together) - the seam is horizontal through the clock) - see attachments for the dragon as well as some of the reindeer and ornaments.

Take your time and add tools to your shop as you need them and can afford them. If you can't afford a tool, figure out how to make the tool or jig that will work for you until you can afford a better tool to do that job. Don't spend a lot of money "up front" on tools that you think you will need. For years my router table was just a piece of 3/4 plywood with a hole for the router bit and bolt holes to mount my only fixed base 1 hp router. A 2 X 4 and 2 clamps served as the fence. My workbench was a Work Mate. At the time I was raising 4 kids and working 2 jobs. I had very little time or money for woodworking and I was adding onto my house by myself too. I had a couple of inherited hand saws, a level, a hand drill and a drill index, a 4" pad sander, and an inherited table saw that cut wherever it wanted to and not always where I wanted it to, but I could get my wood (usually cheap pine) to the approximate size with it and then plane it or sand it to get it the size that I wanted to. I also had a good variety of hand tools and rasps. A surform rasp was used frequently. Then I added a table top drill press, then a real router table and a plunge router. In woodworking there are many ways to do almost anything. Some are better than others, some are faster, or more accurate, but you can do almost anything that you want to with some very basic and a minimum of tools. It usually takes longer, but can be done. Starting with just the minimum and then adding as your skill level, finances, and needs increase will keep you from wasting money on tools that you may never need. Making jigs and fixtures as you need them will build your hand tool skills very quickly too. I made a bunch of small furniture, candle sconces, etc. with just these few hand and power tools, but learned a lot along the way.

If, somewhere in your future, you decide that woodworking is not for you, then you can go in another direction and you haven;t wasted a lot of time or money on expensive woodworking tools that you will likely only get back 1/2 of your investment or less for.

Good luck to you and whatever choices you make.

Charley

[Charles Lent]

I have no artistic skills that I know of, I joke that I can't draw a straight line with two rulers, those 3 examples of wood burning were the first projects I ever did between 10-15 years ago, I recently started getting interested in it again and have my old burner and a brand new Razertip SS-D10 but I also desire to shape my own boards.

I am trying to decide on a scroll saw between Dewalt DW788 20" or save longer and get an Excalibur EX-21 or EX-30 (I like that the head tilts and not the table)

I have several scroll saw pattern books from a yard sale, I have no clue what would sell or how to charge for a given item. I have always given them away as gifts because I have no idea what my projects, time, and materials are worth.

Very nice detailed work in your pictures. BTW how do you sand the inside cuts smooth or do you have too?

Edward,

When you scroll with the better saws and a fine tooth blade you don't have to sand much more than just removing the fuzzies from the edges of the cuts, I usually do this with a fingernail file, sometimes with one trimmed narrower, to get into small areas. It only takes a couple of strokes, usually at a 45 deg angle to the cut to remove them. Each one of these sticks provides a fine grit on one side and coarse grit on the other. I rarely use the coarse grit. The saw cuts are smooth, except for the occasional fuzzy edges on some woods, as long as the blade remains sharp. They will look laser cut to some people, but without the burning of the cut edges, if you don't use dull blades or try to cut too fast because these will burn the cuts. Don't expect long life from the blades. They rarely break with a better quality saw, but will dull quickly in hard woods. But at about $0.23 per blade when purchased in gross quantity, it's just part of the cost of woodworking. I can usually cut about eight of those little reindeer in hard maple before needing to replace the dull blade, but more in softer woods. I use Flying Dutchman brand blades almost exclusively,.

Excalibur saws are no longer available new, due to a vendor supply problem. They may be again someday, but Jet and Seyco are now new players in the higher quality scroll saw game and both saws looking very promising. Unfortunately, there is little chance of finding either one used, since both saws are new on the market.

If you get into scroll sawing, it helps to have a table saw for cutting the wood to size for scrolling. Cutting straight lines with a scroll saw is about as impossible as trying to scroll with a table saw. For pricing, if you can cut a reindeer and clean off the fuzzies in 10 minutes, you can make 6 reindeer in an hour. At $6 per reindeer, that's roughly $36/per hour, not counting the material or blade costs. I never sell anything that I make. I mostly teach and demonstrate, but I do give what I make away. My extended family consumes much of what I make, but the reindeer are mostly given away during the Christmas Season (Thanksgiving - New Years) to any woman who in some way helps me during that time. Cashiers, salesladies, nurses, waitresses, etc. are all given one, if they want it. When I wish them a Very Merry Christmas, I hold out my hand toward them with my palm down and a reindeer held in it. When they reach out to me, I drop one into their hand. I'm always thanked, sometimes hugged, and very rarely kissed on the cheek. The whole manufacturing and giving process puts me in a better Christmas Spirit and I've been doing it for eight years now. After doing so many it now only takes me about 6 minutes to make one and de-fuzz it. The ornaments take longer and should command a higher price accordingly.

Unfortunately, both the reindeer and the ornaments only seem to be in demand near or during the Christmas Season. If you are trying to supplement your income, you will need other products that will sell well during the rest of the year, and you will need to find where to be able to sell them. Flea markets are generally not a good place, because the shoppers are looking for bargains. Craft Fairs are better. You may be able to sell through consignment shops, but your profits will be much less. I have very little selling experience and none of it has been with woodworking. I'm just passing along what others that I know who sell their woodworking have experienced. What you sell has to be different than available through other sources, but priced reasonably, and it has to be placed where people in the right shopping mood are open to buying it at your prices. Don't even try to make duplicates of products that come from the Orient to sell. It has to be different, unique, and at a fair price.

When you buy tools, look closely at what choices are available, how well they are made, and what features that one has over the others. Don't get hung up on brand names, but do consider how easily that it will be to get parts and service for the tool that you are about to buy, should you ever need it. Try to find the best that you can for what you can spend. Cheap tools tend to not be very accurate or not last very long. Better quality tools from better manufacturers can last a lifetime. Buy it once and cry once. You will likely never have to replace it. I have power and hand tools that I bought over 50 years ago that are still very good and serving me well. Most have never even had to be repaired since I bought them.

Charley

[Matt Day]

I have no idea what my projects, time, and materials are worth.

That comment should make it clear as day that you shouldn't max out 2 credit cards with the intent of making $500/mo selling craft projects.

Make this a fun ever evolving hobby like most of us have done. Learn as you go, make shop stuff like benches and storage, and buy what you need.

[Chris Hachet]

That comment should make it clear as day that you shouldn't max out 2 credit cards with the intent of making $500/mo selling craft projects.

Make this a fun ever evolving hobby like most of us have done. Learn as you go, make shop stuff like benches and storage, and buy what you need.I prefer to do side work on a very limited basis, ergo I choose projects that I will enjoy doing and are profitable for me. The minute I have to take projects that I am not interested in or do woodworking as a form of mandatory income, a lot of the joy goes out of it for me.

[Chris Hachet]

When you buy tools, look closely at what choices are available, how well they are made, and what features that one has over the others. Don't get hung up on brand names, but do consider how easily that it will be to get parts and service for the tool that you are about to buy, should you ever need it. Try to find the best that you can for what you can spend. Cheap tools tend to not be very accurate or not last very long. Better quality tools from better manufacturers can last a lifetime. Buy it once and cry once. You will likely never have to replace it. I have power and hand tools that I bought over 50 years ago that are still very good and serving me well. Most have never even had to be repaired since I bought them.

Charley

A few really good tools will do far more than a whole bunch of cheap tools. Quoting the above for truth.

[Robert Engel]

Edward,

You might find hand tool work quite therapeutic (I know I do). Yes, you can spend a lot of money for quality tools, but for $1000 - 1500 you can really put together a pretty nice hand tool kit.

If you just got a tablesaw for now and did not deal in rough lumber you can do many small projects.

Couple resources to check on YouTube: Paul Sellers, The Unplugged Woodshop.

Good luck on whatever you decide.

[andy bessette]

Instead of buying new, cheap, imported stuff, be patient and watch for deals on used, quality tools in excellent condition.

[Randy Heinemann]

My suggestion is not to outfit your shop all at once. Start with some basics, maybe even some hand tools, and acquire additional tools as you need them to do the work you are doing at the time. From experience, I can tell you that there is no real "basic" set of tools, only those that you use regularly to make what you are making. Over the years, I have acquired many tools just because I thought they would be great for future projects, only to find out that I can do the work with what I have already or that I never end up doing that particular project. I haven't read the rest of the posts, so don't know exactly what you want to accomplish, but start small and grow with your requirements.

[Ray Newman]

Here's my take. You were given sound advice about tools and I will not repeat what was said.

You posted you would like to earn a extra US$500 a month selling craft items. Sounds like a worthwhile goal, but go into this venture with both eyes wide open by seriously considering if it is a realistic goal?

I know several who were going to supplement their regular income, Social Security, etc., by "doing the craft shows" only to find out: there was really was no market for what they wanted to sell; the competition was too well establish and stiff; the profit margin was too small or nonexistent considering material costs, time involved, travel expenses, etc.; and/or they could not compete against the Asian imports passed off as home shop-made craft items.

If you have not done so, visit the venues where you think you would set up a both. Get an idea about the competition, customer base, craft show fees, sales tax reporting, business license requirements, what is/is not selling, etc. Some crafters utilize a consignment shop to sell their wares, but said that the shop takes a percentage of the sale and/or expects them to work in the shop.

Hope it works out for you.

[paul cottingham]

Edward,
I'm going to throw my $0.02 out here only because I really haven't seen anyone address it. I understand the hesitancy about buying used tools given you're new to woodworking but the quality and craftsmanship of the older American made tools is outstanding and most can be found in plug and play condition (meaning they don't need any work before you use them) and the price point is almost always going to be cheaper than buying new tools made overseas that generally don't come close to approaching the same level of quality and craftsmanship. Check out the classified ad sections at VintageMachinery.org and owwm.org and even post your own WTB (Want To Buy) ad there explaining your situation. You'll find there are a lot of good woodworkers out there who will be happy to help you out. Good luck!

Mike

What Mike said. Seriously.

BTW the tool I wish I had bought right away is a good bandsaw. Can't be beat for versatility and usefulness, I use mine all the time (and not just for curved pieces.)

[Ron Citerone]

I would seriously consider a used Craigslist planer and put new blades on it. (or reverse the blades is so equipped) This allows you to buy rough cut lumber from small band saw outfits and save tons of my money.

[Malcolm McLeod]

A quick look at Springfield Craigslist, pulled up 30 hits for 'scroll saw', including nearby areas. I'd guess maybe 15 of them, could meet your short term needs. Prices range from $25 to $350. One might get you past the analysis paralysis, and not break the bank.

Good luck and thank you for your service.

[Jim Dwight]

You don't need a better table saw or a Festool track saw to make shop cabinets or shelves. A circular saw would work - I have done it - but I would recommend a Grizzly track saw. I use a DeWalt which I like a lot and it is roughly half the cost of a Festool if you price it with a long track. The Grizzly isn't available with a long track but you can use two shorter ones (and a piece that joins them). With a Grizzly track saw and your table saw I think you would be set for what you describe. You can make the little table saw more functional with one of Ron Paulk's workbenches (look for the youtubes). You can make the workbench with the track saw.

I have two DeWalt corded drills and used to use DeWalt cordless ones but the batteries got too expensive. I use my Ryobi cordless drills (2) and impact driver all the time. I've drilled 1/2 inch holes in a steel boat trailer with them and installed locksets in solid softwood doors with them. They are kind of low end but they work fine. I use a bunch of Ryobi cordless stuff - jigsaw, reciprocating saw, circular saw, brad nailer etc.. They all work. But a corded Bosch jig saw works a lot better and my corded DeWalt reciprocating saw is sometimes necessary if I have a lot of cutting to do. But for drills, the Ryobi 18V will do nearly anything you need a drill to do. I went through as many as 5 2x4s with one when I was wiring my shop.

Harbor freight is fine for clamps, especially C-clamps but also some larger ones. I have an impact drill from them that is pretty heavy duty especially for the price. But their cordless and corded tools are kind of like my Ryobi stuff. They work but shouldn't be trusted to do very precise work.

Harbor freight nailers, on the other hand, are great buys and generally work fine. If they don't, their return policy is good. I have a flooring nailer, 15 gauge, and 3 staplers from HF. They all work. I have other brands too but recent purchases have come from HF.

If you are not spraying finish with your compressor you don't need a particularly big one. I have three. The one I use the most is a little Senco that is the smallest. It will drive any of my nailers but I might have to occasionally wait a bit with the large ones. So if I was flooring a room, I'd get out one of the bigger compressors. But to shoot a few nails in the shop, the Senco is handier. A HF compressor would be fine for your situation as long as you are willing to use hearing protection when using it. They have oiled ones too which would be quieter. You can do a lot of work with a $50-100 compressor. You don't need more to drive nailers. I spray with a turbine unit so I don't have a use for a big compressor.