lunchbox vs stationary planer

[Howard Pollack]

Hi-
Will folks please comment on the advantages of stationary planers vs lunchbox planers. I have a Makita 2012 and wonder if the finish that comes off of a planer/jointer combination machine will be substantially better. I'm aware that it will me much quieter to run. Thanks.
-Howard

[daryl moses]

It depends on your intended use.
I mill all of my own lumber and couldn't fathom being tied down to a lunch box planer. Milling long, heavy and wide pieces is much easier with a stationary machine. I suppose it could be done but I couldn't imagine running a couple of thousand B/F of rough sawn, wide, long and heavy lumber through a lunch box.
On the other hand if your intended use is just going to use it to thickness smaller amounts and pieces a lunch box planer would be ideal.
I have a 15" Shop Fox planer and wish I had purchased the 20".

[Rick Alexander]

Actually the finish on those lunch boxes will probably be better than the stationary - unless the stationary has a good quality byrd head with a decent diameter cutter shaft. I haven't used my dewalt finish planer since putting byrd cutters on my 20 inch Grizzly

[Curt Harms]

I had a Delta 22-580 and sold it and a 6" jointer for a Jet Jointer/Planer. The finish quality did not improve but didn't decrease noticeably either. My Jet JJP has straight knives, I've never used a machine with a helical head. Stationary machines are should be more durable - induction motor vs. universal motor, stouter castings and bearings. My primary reason for upgrading was for the wider jointer. I use mostly air dried rough sawn stock and a lot of it was wider than what an 8" jointer would handle easily. I'm happy with the swap but it depends on what you're doing and what you want.

[Jim Becker]

One small advantage goes to "lunch box" planers and that's when you're working with very thin material or taking very thin cuts. Stationary planers typically use a serrated feed roller and that can mark deeper than the cut one might take for those applications. Otherwise, stationary planers are heavier and more durable and also available in capacities beyond 12" width. While stationary planers are not "quiet", they do not have that "high pitched scream" that the universal motors in "lunch box" planers have. :)

[Rick Potter]

Good advice from Jim. As stated above, it depends on whether you plan to process your own lumber, or just thin out and surface wood to size for projects.

I am a hobbyist, and fall in the later catagory. I had a 15" Jet which was great for starting with rough sawn wood, but as Jim stated, it always left serrated marks on the finished surface. I sold it and got a DeWalt 735 which fits my needs much better. I have run a lot of wood through it, and it gives me a very nice finish. It is loud, but much better for my needs, and earmuffs are cheap.

I have a simple piece of melamine particle board about 2' long with a cleat on the leading edge to keep it from moving. This allows me to plane thin boards very nicely. I have planed down to about 1/8" with no problems.

[Patrick Kane]

I went from a 735 to a PM209hh last year, and i would say the byrd head is a downgrade compared to the 735. I have the scalloped ridges everyone talks about, and i dont find it to be much better with reversing grain. Full disclosure, i still feel like i was sold a bit of snake oil by most opinions on the net. However, to me the stationary planer with carbide inserts wasnt about improving cut quality etc. I was ramming a lot of wood through the dewalt, and the pace left a lot to be desired. In addition to pace, i was holding my breath over when it would eventually kick the bucket. Im sure they last awhile, but i was 2-3,000 bdft into it and wanted to sell it before i broke it. Import 20" machines arent invincible, but at 1-2,000 bdft a year it should last me for quite awhile without trouble. Im no longer limited to 1/32-1/16" passes, and the PM on slow gear is much faster. Similar to having a narrow jointer, i am now using the 13-20" wide boards ive accumulated, but never touched because my tooling didnt match their dimensions. I cant outright say the powermatic is better than the dewalt, they are just different. I wanted wider, faster, and more robust to suit my needs. The dewalt could be a better machine(and significantly less expensive too!) for some people given the circumstances.

[John Lankers]

I will not mention any specific brands but there are cheap (quality) and more high end lunchbox planers and the same holds true for stationary planers. However, if you run any lunchbox planer all day every day at full capacity you won't get much life (duty cycle) out of it and it simply won't be able to work at all with dull knives as where a large industrial planer with dull knives just leaves a rougher surface. IMHO, both planers outfitted with new knives and taking a thin layer of wood of should leave a very comparable finish. No matter how you stretch it, running a 13" board through a 13" lunchbox planer is a workout even at the thinnest setting. Also, most higher end stationary planers can be bought with rubber outfeed rollers to eliminate marring.

[Jon Nuckles]

The finish off my DW735 with sharp knives is better than I used to get with a 15" Delta stationary planer, and I like the easy replacement of dull or nicked knives. On the other hand, it takes too long to plane down rough sawn lumber and it does scream. It is certainly a cheaper option if that matters to you. You'll likely pay more for a Byrd head for a 15" planer than the DW735 costs in total. As was mentioned above, there are big differences in quality within each class of planer. I had a Delta 12" many years ago and, while it was lighter than the DW735, the Delta was no match for it in power or finish.

[rudy de haas]

Before buying mine (G1037z equiv from craftex in Canada) I ran some tests. Conclusions:

1 - finish quality depends on the cutters, the feed rate, and the wood, not how the machine is mounted or powered (unless the machine is so light relative to the job that it moves; that's a disaster for finish quality);

2 - noise matters

3 - the lunch boxes work ok for small pieces fed slowly, are easy to move around, and take normal 15 amp, 110 volt power. The better stationary units are heavy, take 220 volt power, and are not easily moved except on wheels within the workshop.

4 - the heavier machines have it all over the little guys when you want to plane longer boards. There is no comparison between feeding a 12 foot long piece of jatoba through a small stationary unit like the G0137z and doing it on a lunchbox. Basically, one is just some work, the other needs planning, care, clamps, and a lot of time.

[John Gulick]

We use our Powermatic 180 for roughing and either our Makita or Rigid for finishing.

[Homer Faucett]

With regard to using a stationary planer, I will say that those who are seeing significant marks from the serrated feed roller do not have their planer set up properly. The planer blades should be set below the teeth of the feed roller. I have bought and used 4 stationary planers and set them up according to specs from Bob Vaughan. There used to be a great video on this.

I started with a screamer lunchbox planer, and they do a great job for short boards. Universal motors will not last long, the gears will eventually sheer, and you cannot take much thickness off the board. Moreover, I have found that snipe is generally worse on those lunchbox planers than on a well tuned floor planer.

I started with a Ryobi and have had one of the "elite" DeWalt lunchbox planers. If you do not ever want to do setup on a planer...get a lunchbox planer, but live with it's limitations. I have seen the edges on the DeWalt planer blades fold over on oak and walnut. I hope they have fixed that. I also have/do own a Robland 12" J/P that works great, a Sunhill 20" with a Byrd Style head I installed, an old beast Williams & Hussey 12" planer/molder, and a Parks 12" planer. If you aren't willing to go to Harbor freight and buy a dial indicator, you have no business in buying a floor planer.

With regards to a Byrd head, if you wont buy a torque wrench, you shouldn't buy one. So many of our machines require 3+ hours of setup to ensure that you get proper results. They are not set up properly from the factory, regardless of manufacturer for the floor model machines. The setup time is offset by the throughput on the bigger machines. I use almost exclusively roughsawn lumber, including exotics, and I have burned up the lunchtop versions. I am not a mechanic, so I feel everyone's pain in the setup, but I feel like much of the negative comments on floor planers are related to poor setup by the owners.

I personally use my Robland planer with straight carbide blades for most uses, and don't find the minor sanding difference between this and the old lunchtop planers justifies the very slow feed rate of lunchtop planers.

[Art Mann]

I used a Ridgid TP1300 for 10 years before acquiring a Jet JJP-12HH jointer/planer machine with the segmented spiral cutter head. The Ridgid had hard use over the whole time period and I had zero problems with it. The quality of the surface for both machines is about equal for smooth grained wood. For figured or knotty wood, the Jet beats the socks off the Ridgid. The Jet is far quieter and far faster than the Ridgid. My experience is that the Jet will not allow you to remove as little as the Ridgid and sometimes that is important. I have a DRO on both machines and the Ridgid planer is more accurate when adjusted using the readout. I sold the Ridgid and it is still at work in a friend's shop. I regret selling it. I had the room for both and each is better at certain things.

[lowell holmes]

I have a Dewalt 734 that suits my needs. You will have to learn a few things. To avoid snipe, lift up on the tail of the board as you are feeding it into the machine.

Don't get cute with it, it can throw a board across the room. DAMHIK

[Doug Landphair]

A couple of years ago I made the move from a Ridgid 6" jointer and a Delta 22-580 13-1/2 inch planer to an 8-inch Jet jointer and a 15-inch Jet planer. It wasn't because the Ridgid and Delta didn't work well. They did a good job. However, they were slow and noisy. Processing a pile of wood took a pile of time. The Jet machinery is faster and much quieter. Both are equipped with helical heads which provide very smooth surfaces. Yes, it was a ton of money but am glad I made the move.

As others have commented, the direction you go really depends on what you're going to do with the equipment (and your budget!).

[Ken Platt]

Another happy upgrader from lunch box (Dewalt) to stationary (Grizz 13", maybe G1073?). I found that I had to run boards through the Dewalt over and over in order to take off any significant amount, which I usually had to do with my bandsaw milled boards. It was mind-numbingly boring. With the Grizzly, much much faster. I should have upgraded years earlier.

Ken

[Matthew Hills]

Hi-
Will folks please comment on the advantages of stationary planers vs lunchbox planers. I have a Makita 2012 and wonder if the finish that comes off of a planer/jointer combination machine will be substantially better. I'm aware that it will me much quieter to run. Thanks.
-Howard

What is the quality issue that you're having?
(washboarding or tearout or snipe? figured wood or straight-grain?)

Fresh blades will be better than dull, whether on lunchbox or stationary planer.

Matt

[Russell Smallwood]

With regard to using a stationary planer, I will say that those who are seeing significant marks from the serrated feed roller do not have their planer set up properly. The planer blades should be set below the teeth of the feed roller. I have bought and used 4 stationary planers and set them up according to specs from Bob Vaughan. There used to be a great video on this.

I started with a screamer lunchbox planer, and they do a great job for short boards. Universal motors will not last long, the gears will eventually sheer, and you cannot take much thickness off the board. Moreover, I have found that snipe is generally worse on those lunchbox planers than on a well tuned floor planer.

I started with a Ryobi and have had one of the "elite" DeWalt lunchbox planers. If you do not ever want to do setup on a planer...get a lunchbox planer, but live with it's limitations. I have seen the edges on the DeWalt planer blades fold over on oak and walnut. I hope they have fixed that. I also have/do own a Robland 12" J/P that works great, a Sunhill 20" with a Byrd Style head I installed, an old beast Williams & Hussey 12" planer/molder, and a Parks 12" planer. If you aren't willing to go to Harbor freight and buy a dial indicator, you have no business in buying a floor planer.

With regards to a Byrd head, if you wont buy a torque wrench, you shouldn't buy one. So many of our machines require 3+ hours of setup to ensure that you get proper results. They are not set up properly from the factory, regardless of manufacturer for the floor model machines. The setup time is offset by the throughput on the bigger machines. I use almost exclusively roughsawn lumber, including exotics, and I have burned up the lunchtop versions. I am not a mechanic, so I feel everyone's pain in the setup, but I feel like much of the negative comments on floor planers are related to poor setup by the owners.

I personally use my Robland planer with straight carbide blades for most uses, and don't find the minor sanding difference between this and the old lunchtop planers justifies the very slow feed rate of lunchtop planers.

Hard to add much to this post. Setup is key and you can get great results from stationary equipment if you set it up properly. I finally gave up on lunch box planers when mine slipped my clamps and toppled over in the middle of surfacing a 12' 6/4 piece of cypress. Some kind of helical head is a must IMHO. I have them on both Jointer and Planer and wouldn't go back to straight knives.

[Cary Falk]

The finish on my lunch box was smooth as glass. The finish on my 15" stationary with spiral head is not quite as good but I sand everything so it doesn't matter. You can adjust the outfeed marks out of a stationary planer. The infeed roller marks are only there if you don' remove enough wood. I ended up replacing the infeed an outfeed with rubber rollers. I would never go back to a lunchbox. My stationary is quieter, more robust, wider, and faster.

[Marc Burt]

Had a Delta lunchbox for years switched to the jet combo as well. For me I can hog off way more per pass than the Delta could and the big machine doesn't hestitate. It really speeds up stock prep.

finish is no better or worse. Blade changes were easier on the Delta. (I don't have the HH - stupid shortsighted decision)

[glenn bradley]

Lunchbox planers are 'finish' planers. Lighter cuts, portable, and replaceable indexed knives are the norm. Stationary planers generally come with factory settings for rough material but, those settings are designed to be adjustable. Insert heads deal with difficult figure better than knives and floor models are generally more powerful an quieter.

I adjusted the roller marks out of my floor model and changed other settings to be more appropriate for material that is not straight from the saw mill. use a lot of figured material so an insert head was a must. I almost kept my DW734 around as I had it pretty well dialed in but, space requirements won out and it went down the road.

[Ole Anderson]

I would say go with a lunchbox (I have the Delta 22-580) if you plane rough sawn only occasionally or if you get your boards sized 1/16" over final size like I do.

[Homer Faucett]

I would say go with a lunchbox (I have the Delta 22-580) if you plane rough sawn only occasionally or if you get your boards sized 1/16" over final size like I do.

You can easily pay for a floor model in the price difference between rough sawn and previously prepped boards and do any kind of volume in your shop. Cost per board foot adds up quickly.

The question becomes what you want from woodworking. Is it an expensive hobby? A self sustaining hobby? A money making venture?

If you are doing large flatwork of any sort, and you want to do sustainable or money making, I personally think a floor planer is one of the top 5 machines you want if you want to be cost effective over the long haul.

[Homer Faucett]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSM7Jrg34a8

Here is the best generic planer setup advice I have ever seen or read. Robert Vaughan is a woodworking machinery guru. If you have a floor planer, I'd invest in watching this and following what he recommends.

I have bought 3hp floor planers for $100 that were simply out of alignment. Yes...it's a pain. Yes, it's a time investment. It all goes back to what are you looking for from woodworking?

I see alot of guys who just like to buy gadgets and really never make anything worthwhile, only to sell it all at a loss 5-10 years later.

[Mike Cutler]

Okay, I gotta ask;

Do folks really get a finish ready surface off of a planer, or jointer? I mean absolutely no other work. From the machine, to the finish bench?

I have had a 15" jet for quite a few years. It's a nice machine, but the material coming off is not finish ready. No indeed/outfeed roller marks, but definitely not ready for a finish coat. Everything goes through the sander next for me.

I've only been around the lunchbox planers, never owned one, so I can't comment on quality.

[Mel Fulks]

Ready for paint, not stain

[Homer Faucett]

Okay, I gotta ask;

Do folks really get a finish ready surface off of a planer, or jointer? I mean absolutely no other work. From the machine, to the finish bench?

No. You need to use a scraper or sander. I do not think that finish ready off of any machine is any more real than Unicorns and leprechauns.

[Roger Marty]

My 13-month old DeWalt DW734 keeps overheating on me. The thermal breaker trips after several 1/16-1/32 passes on on red oak.

I've changed out blades which helped for several months, but now the problem is back. Blade is sharp enough to remove arm hair.

DeWalt says I should ship it to a service center.

So consider this an anecdote in favor of a machine with an induction motor.

No idea what I'm going to do. I've tried getting rid of the extension cord. I don't see any clogs in airflow. I guess I'll try replacing the thermal breaker myself before shipping the machine away.

[Patrick Lesher]

I recently got a used Powermatic 15 with a Byrd head to replace my Dewalt 735. I almost wish I would have kept both. The PM is taking me a bit to get used to and set up. My initial impression is that it does a great job at taking off a lot of material but doesn't really want to take a little at a time. My mode with the 735 was 1/32", 1/16" or so at a time. The PM Byrd head leaves a really nice finish and doesn't rip up the material like the 735 would some times.

They are just different machines and take different practices.

[Jon Nuckles]

Okay, I gotta ask;

Do folks really get a finish ready surface off of a planer, or jointer? I mean absolutely no other work. From the machine, to the finish bench?

Not here. Better surface off the DW735 than the stationary Delta, but both require further prep.

[lowell holmes]

My 13-month old DeWalt DW734 keeps overheating on me. The thermal breaker trips after several 1/16-1/32 passes on on red oak.

I've changed out blades which helped for several months, but now the problem is back. Blade is sharp enough to remove arm hair.

DeWalt says I should ship it to a service center.

So consider this an anecdote in favor of a machine with an induction motor.

No idea what I'm going to do. I've tried getting rid of the extension cord. I don't see any clogs in airflow. I guess I'll try replacing the thermal breaker myself before shipping the machine away.


My 734 has never overheated . I have not run red oak, but I have run white oak. I have never run more than ten or twelve boards and they were less than eight feet long.

It may be that you are working yours harder than I do. When you say several passes, do you mean 10 -20 or 20-30? I am just curious. Also, I typically take very light cuts, normally 1/32",

[Roger Marty]

My 734 has never overheated . I have not run red oak, but I have run white oak. I have never run more than ten or twelve boards and they were less than eight feet long.

It may be that you are working yours more than I do. When you say several passes, do you mean 10 -20 or 20-30? I am just curious. Also, I typically take very light cuts, normally 1/32",

I usually take 1/32" cuts. If I've made several passes and then take a 1/16" cut, thermal overload will trip on a 6" wide board :-/ Sometimes it will trip on a 1/32" pass after doing a lot of work.

I think I have a bum machine. I'm not confident in paying the $$$ to ship it to some service center, and having the service center actually diagnose/fix the problem. I could see them turning on the machine, running some boards through the machine, saying "this machine works fine" and shipping it back to me.

Either that, or the blades last way way shorter than I expect. Since the blade change, I've probably run 50-70 bd. feet through the machine (but several passes each....so perhaps 400 bd. feet total).

[Darcy Warner]

I usually take 1/8"+ passes. Only a couple passes and I am done.

I find that all my big planers leave a much better finish taking big cuts.

In a perfect world I have a large finish planer and leave it set at whatever I want my final thickness to be. I have had 3 planers set up before.

My Buss 4L's take care of hogging and finish planing all in one machine.

[lowell holmes]

Roger,

I think you may be working your machine harder than I do.

Does this overheating occur in the first 1/2 hour, or later? The lunchbox planers are not meant to be production machines. I don't think I have ever run mine for more than 10-15 minutes.

I would not hesitate to run 10 or 12 8 foot boards, but in no way have I ever run mine for more than 15 -20 minutes.

I know it is a pain. I hope you get it worked out soon. If you can't run it for more that 15-20 minutes, I'd say you do have a bad motor.

[Curt Harms]

My 13-month old DeWalt DW734 keeps overheating on me. The thermal breaker trips after several 1/16-1/32 passes on on red oak.

I've changed out blades which helped for several months, but now the problem is back. Blade is sharp enough to remove arm hair.

DeWalt says I should ship it to a service center.

So consider this an anecdote in favor of a machine with an induction motor.

No idea what I'm going to do. I've tried getting rid of the extension cord. I don't see any clogs in airflow. I guess I'll try replacing the thermal breaker myself before shipping the machine away.

You might consider a clamp-on ammeter, most also do AC & DC volts (battery checker). Check the amperage under normal load. It's not unheard of for a thermal overload device to trip at less than rated amperage.

[Paul K. Johnson]

I've never owned or used a stationary planer. I have the Dewalt 735 and can tell you that everything you've ever heard about the knives not lasting is absolutely true. Every knife in mine has developed nicks within a board or two - usually pine. A brand new set got nicks on the first piece of wood I put through it - a 2' piece of pine.

When I bought mine I got it on special with the infeed/outfeed tables and an extra set of blades. I also bought the stand and got $50 off on the whole deal.

I really like the planer though. I made the mistake of not hooking up dust collection one time and fed a couple boards through. I wasn't watching where the chips were going and it it literally covered my entire car. That happened in the morning when my car was covered in dew.

Gotta tell you that wet wood chips don't just flow off the car using a water hose. Took me about an hour to get it all off.

Anyway, all my boards are coming out with multiple lines on them where there are chips in the blades.

So I plan to look into upgraded blades from a third party or helical head.

[Mel Fulks]

Paul, I've helped a friend run stuff through one of those things. I think the main problem is the extremely slow feed makes the knives get too hot. Don't know what steels are available for those but M2 or T1 would hold up better. Pretty sure that the stock ones are those "same hardness as M2" things . NOT real M2. Good luck!

[Steve Demuth]

I a put a Byrd head in my 735. Best upgrade of a machine I've ever made. I'm not a production wood worker, but I do run quite a bit of rough sawn hardwood through my shop, and the original surfaces of the Byrd carbide cutters cut every bit as well two years after I installed the head as the day I put them in. The original straight, replaceable blades never made it through 50 bf before they were either chipped or noticeably dull.

[Jim Becker]

Paul, I've helped a friend run stuff through one of those things. I think the main problem is the extremely slow feed makes the knives get too hot. Don't know what steels are available for those but M2 or T1 would hold up better. Pretty sure that the stock ones are those "same hardness as M2" things . NOT real M2. Good luck!

The trade-off is that a combination of slow feed and faster cutter head speed that isn't atypical for the portables can make for a better finish because the "scallops" are smaller...

[glenn bradley]

Okay, I gotta ask;

Do folks really get a finish ready surface off of a planer, or jointer? I mean absolutely no other work. From the machine, to the finish bench?

The usual answer; it depends. Take a look at the trim carpentry in a moderately priced new home. You will see surfaces right off the planer, miters right off the CMS, wax filled nail holes and so forth. This is the norm in this situation, sometimes hidden under a nice thick coat of paint or varnish.

I don't think many of us doing period work, replicas or even our own "fine" woodworking designs ever get from machine to finish without passing near a hand plane or at least a well sanded surface diligently worked through the grits.

I think the point is to reduce that effort as much as possible. We use machines because they are faster. They help us get through mundane tasks at the preliminary steps of making parts. The closer they get to "done" the less we have to do but, there is always something to be done . . . at least in my shop.

[Jon Nuckles]

To those who quickly get nicks in their knives on the DW735, the index holes in the knives have enough side to side "play" to allow you to slide the knives so the nicks don't line up from knife to knife. This is a quick fix that will eliminate lines, at least until you hit the next knot or other nick-making object. Of course, this only works if you get a nick in the knives that leaves a line on the board that is proud of the surface; if you have a bump on a knife that causes an indentation line in your board, you are out of luck.

[William Shelley]

Out of curiosity, can anyone explain whether it's better to have a larger diameter cutterhead, or a smaller, and why? I have noticed that most stationary units have larger and more solid cutterheads whereas lunchbox types have pretty small / minimal heads.

My Baileigh 16" J/P hybrid has a nice solid byrd-style cutterhead. The specs say 3.5" diameter.

[Mel Fulks]

Good point,Jon ,on the knife shifting. The striations,unlike chips, can show up quite soon even when running perfectly clean material. The good quality real high speed steels don't do that. With them the planed surface often has a sheen with no striations. And less tear out than with the standard low quality knives

[Ole Anderson]

Out of curiosity, can anyone explain whether it's better to have a larger diameter cutterhead, or a smaller, and why? I have noticed that most stationary units have larger and more solid cutterheads whereas lunchbox types have pretty small / minimal heads.

My Baileigh 16" J/P hybrid has a nice solid byrd-style cutterhead. The specs say 3.5" diameter.

Weight would be one issue, trying to keep a lunchbox planer "portable" becomes an exercise in weight reduction. And weight means more steel in the cutterhead which equates to cost. The other item would be cutter speed. To maintain speed at the blade edge requires less rpms as the cutter becomes larger. Then you get into cuts per inch which is a function of number of the number of knives on the cutter head, the rpms and the feed rate. So to keep up the feed rate on the bigger machines that run at lower rpms, you get less cuts per inch.

[Art Mann]

The larger the radius, the more flat the arc is as it cuts the wood. In theory, that would produce a less scalloped pattern for a given RPM. In practice, the lunchbox planers rotate at such a high RPM that it doesn't matter.

[Chris Hachet]

With regard to using a stationary planer, I will say that those who are seeing significant marks from the serrated feed roller do not have their planer set up properly. The planer blades should be set below the teeth of the feed roller. I have bought and used 4 stationary planers and set them up according to specs from Bob Vaughan. There used to be a great video on this.

I started with a screamer lunchbox planer, and they do a great job for short boards. Universal motors will not last long, the gears will eventually sheer, and you cannot take much thickness off the board. Moreover, I have found that snipe is generally worse on those lunchbox planers than on a well tuned floor planer.

I started with a Ryobi and have had one of the "elite" DeWalt lunchbox planers. If you do not ever want to do setup on a planer...get a lunchbox planer, but live with it's limitations. I have seen the edges on the DeWalt planer blades fold over on oak and walnut. I hope they have fixed that. I also have/do own a Robland 12" J/P that works great, a Sunhill 20" with a Byrd Style head I installed, an old beast Williams & Hussey 12" planer/molder, and a Parks 12" planer. If you aren't willing to go to Harbor freight and buy a dial indicator, you have no business in buying a floor planer.

With regards to a Byrd head, if you wont buy a torque wrench, you shouldn't buy one. So many of our machines require 3+ hours of setup to ensure that you get proper results. They are not set up properly from the factory, regardless of manufacturer for the floor model machines. The setup time is offset by the throughput on the bigger machines. I use almost exclusively roughsawn lumber, including exotics, and I have burned up the lunchtop versions. I am not a mechanic, so I feel everyone's pain in the setup, but I feel like much of the negative comments on floor planers are related to poor setup by the owners.

I personally use my Robland planer with straight carbide blades for most uses, and don't find the minor sanding difference between this and the old lunchtop planers justifies the very slow feed rate of lunchtop planers.Finding accurate information on set up is often not easy. What would you suggest?

[Chris Hachet]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSM7Jrg34a8

Here is the best generic planer setup advice I have ever seen or read. Robert Vaughan is a woodworking machinery guru. If you have a floor planer, I'd invest in watching this and following what he recommends.

I have bought 3hp floor planers for $100 that were simply out of alignment. Yes...it's a pain. Yes, it's a time investment. It all goes back to what are you looking for from woodworking?

I see alot of guys who just like to buy gadgets and really never make anything worthwhile, only to sell it all at a loss 5-10 years later.I will check this out! Thanks!

[Russell Smallwood]

Okay, I gotta ask;

Do folks really get a finish ready surface off of a planer, or jointer? I mean absolutely no other work. From the machine, to the finish bench?

I have had a 15" jet for quite a few years. It's a nice machine, but the material coming off is not finish ready. No indeed/outfeed roller marks, but definitely not ready for a finish coat. Everything goes through the sander next for me.

I've only been around the lunchbox planers, never owned one, so I can't comment on quality.

I doubt many of the projects on display in the back of fine woodworking come straight off the planer, but I'm sure there are a lot Adirondack chairs that do.

[Randy Heinemann]

I have had a Dewalt 735 for quite a few years and have no complaints. I am a hobby woodworker, but run all sizes of wood through the planer. Generally I rough cut pieces to either the length I need or multiples of the various size pieces and run those through the planer rather than running an 8' board through. I get better results.

I'm not sure why you believe that a larger planer would create less noise (unless I misunderstood), but the only reason that would be true is if it is equipped with a helical cutter head.

I, like others, think it depends on what you want to accomplish. I get a great finish on my planed wood with the Dewalt 735. However, I can't take large bites with each pass and usually keep each pass to 1/16" or less. As long as I don that I don't think any other planer would match the surface finish I get. However, this means that either I get my wood planed to less than 8/4 (maybe 15/16") or allocate more time to get the wood to thickness.

In the end, since I don't use the planer everyday and only plane what I need for each project, the 735 works well regardless of the increased number of passes required. I can't believe any larger heavier duty planer would give a better finish.

[Chris Hachet]

Not here. Better surface off the DW735 than the stationary Delta, but both require further prep.I always hit thing with hand planes for a final once over before finishing, even if I am painting something.

[Jon Nuckles]

I'm not sure why you believe that a larger planer would create less noise (unless I misunderstood), but the only reason that would be true is if it is equipped with a helical cutter head.
Randy,
i like my 735 a lot, but it is a screamer compared to a big stationary planer. I believe it is motor noise rather than the cutter head, though I might be wrong. I don't know if it is the decibel count or just the higher pitch, but it makes me reach for the earplugs much sooner.
Jon

[Randy Heinemann]

Carbide tipped blades are available from a third party (maybe more than one) but expensive. It's unclear whether the benefit justifies the added cost, so I've never done it, I just try to find the best price price on the Dewalt steel blades.

As for the helical head, it is also available for close to $500. I guess it is installable, but I've seen a YouTube video detailing the installation process and I wouldn't attempt it. I've also looked into contracting out installation and that make the helical head unjustifiable for sure.

[Chris Hachet]

Carbide tipped blades are available from a third party (maybe more than one) but expensive. It's unclear whether the benefit justifies the added cost, so I've never done it, I just try to find the best price price on the Dewalt steel blades.

As for the helical head, it is also available for close to $500. I guess it is installable, but I've seen a YouTube video detailing the installation process and I wouldn't attempt it. I've also looked into contracting out installation and that make the helical head unjustifiable for sure.I have thought of that route but the price then goes to what you can buy a floor mount planner for.

[Darcy Warner]

Lots of info flying around. I set up most planers with a 4" wood block, no real need for a bunch of fancy gauges. I have had machines with large diameter 4 knife heads running at 3600 rpm (direct drive) and planers that were belt drive that ran at 6k rpm at the cutter head.

There are planers out there that leave a finish that requires very little sanding, it all depends on the design of the machine.

[Steve Demuth]

Randy,
i like my 735 a lot, but it is a screamer compared to a big stationary planer. I believe it is motor noise rather than the cutter head, though I might be wrong. I don't know if it is the decibel count or just the higher pitch, but it makes me reach for the earplugs much sooner.
Jon

The 735, like all lunchbox planers I know of, has a universal motor. Floor model planets use induction motors. Universal motors are loud due to their use of brushes, high rpms, and often poor manufacturing tolerances. They are used in small tools because they are comparatively compact and cheap, hp for hp, compared to induction motors.

[Curt Harms]

There are high speed knives available for DW 735 for not much more than DeWalt and are supposed to be longer lived. Here are a couple examples.

Holbren: https://www.holbren.com/Titan_Knife_PKH-12800 They may have a SMC discount, worth asking.

Infinity: https://www.infinitytools.com/jointing-planing/jointer-planer-knives

[Mel Fulks]

Curt, I just looked at those, they have descriptions of the steel not found found in catalogs of steel sold to sources that buy steel for custom purposes. Most likely they are more "same hardness as M2" offerings without the heat resistance of real high speed steel. Since the knives for some small planers use standard stock ,rather than snap in stuff, real high speed steel can be bought. I would get quotes by grade designation and size and not even mention planer brand. Most ,if not all , beefy commercial planers are sold new with the cheapest steel available and stamped with planer brand and accompanied by greedy notes to "always buy GENUINE " knives from us. The big deal with high speed steel is the heat resistance ,not the hardness.

[Allan Speers]

I upgraded about 2 years ago, from a Makita 2012NB lunchbox, to a used PM100. I had around 5,000 BD of rough lumber that needed to be skip-planed, & touched up, with about 1,000 bf of that figured hard maple. The Makita is a GREAT little machine, and it may have held up with very careful handling, but it is very weak at pulling large stock through the rollers. I get worn out pushing & pulling 6 - 8' boards through for multiple passes. It also requires very light passes, so it's time consuming. However, the finish it gives is astounding, and with zero snipe.

At first I was going to get a DW735 plus a Byrd head, (oddly, there is / was no shelix head available for the Makita) but virtually everyone here recommended I get something beefier for my specific needs.

The Makita gives a surface that is just about finish-ready, and I knew I'd probably not get that from a stationary machine, but research told me that my best chance of something close (in a 15" or under machine) would be the PM, or the old General 130 planer.

I found a good-condition PM100, and put a 3 HP Baldor on it. I found the full calibration procedure online, and followed it carefully. To my happy amazement, I'm getting virtually the same finish now as I did with the Makita, except MUCH less noise, and much, MUCH more power. FWIW, the PM100 has a serrated feed roller, but a smooth output roller.

I may add a shelix head (or the new V heads, if they become available) but mainly to lower the noise even further.


The main point I wanted to make is, buy a VERY good machine, as they have better adjustments, and more solid critical components, like the chip breaker, pressure system, etc.

[Brian Gumpper]

Holbren has their own DW735 knives that were made from T1 steel with assumption of a longer wearing knife. They are not for sale yet but next week should be on the website.

[Mel Fulks]

Holbren has their own DW735 knives that were made from T1 steel with assumption of a longer wearing knife. They are not for sale yet but next week should be on the website.
Good news! If they say T1 I'm sure they are and it will be a great upgrade. Be wary of "high speed" claims.

[Allan Speers]

The larger the radius, the more flat the arc is as it cuts the wood. In theory, that would produce a less scalloped pattern for a given RPM. In practice, the lunchbox planers rotate at such a high RPM that it doesn't matter.


Also, in theory, more tear-out in difficult wood. (Though that would make an interesting discussion / debate / experiment.)

Again, theoretically, it's kind of a trade-off, vs the "less scalloping" thing. With a lot of planers, if the user is very picky, it's often possible to lower the feed rate, via a gear change, or maybe a separate DC motor... But you can't change the cutting angle.

(Actually, I wonder if you could back-bevel a planer blade? Hmmm ........ )

Of course, a true Shelix head helps minimize tear-out. So they say, anyway. I have yet to try one.

[Allan Speers]

Carbide tipped blades are available from a third party (maybe more than one) but expensive. It's unclear whether the benefit justifies the added cost, so I've never done it, I just try to find the best price price on the Dewalt steel blades.

As for the helical head, it is also available for close to $500. I guess it is installable, but I've seen a YouTube video detailing the installation process and I wouldn't attempt it. I've also looked into contracting out installation and that make the helical head unjustifiable for sure.

I don't recommend carbide-tipped blades for lunchbox planers (or for any planers, really.) Being tipped, not fully carbide, they have to use a more brittle grade of carbide, (so it can be welded to the base) hence they chip easily, and then they are much more expensive to replace than HSS.

Also, according to everyone I asked about this, CT blades don't produce as nice of an edge as HSS.

Put the money into a sharpening jig and extra HSS blades. - Or bite the bullet and get a Shelix, which uses "real" carbide.

[Randy Heinemann]

I've read all the posts in this thread with some interest. As usual, there is a wide range of expectations from planers, how they are used, and the results actually gotten.

Since I don't do woodworking for a living, I'm not necessarily concerned about speeding up the planing process, so the fact that a planer will only handle 1/32" per pass well doesn't concern me. If it did, I would not buy a "lunchbox" planer. I'd buy a larger, heavier, more commercial model.

I never expect the wood coming out of the planer to be "finish ready". As far as I'm concerned, based on my experience, all information I've read, and all knowledge acquired from classes on woodworking, all wood requires some further prep - sanding, hand planing, scraping - whatever needs to be done. It just isn't possible to skip these final wood prep steps to get a good finish and I think it's unrealistic to expect a planer to serve the purpose of getting wood finish ready. Therefore, whether the planed wood has a few ridges from nicks in the knives or scallops from helical head cutters really doesn't matter to me. All of those surface imperfections are removed via sanding or planing anyway.

[William Shelley]

I have had a Dewalt 735 for quite a few years and have no complaints. I am a hobby woodworker, but run all sizes of wood through the planer. Generally I rough cut pieces to either the length I need or multiples of the various size pieces and run those through the planer rather than running an 8' board through. I get better results.

I'm not sure why you believe that a larger planer would create less noise (unless I misunderstood), but the only reason that would be true is if it is equipped with a helical cutter head.

I, like others, think it depends on what you want to accomplish. I get a great finish on my planed wood with the Dewalt 735. However, I can't take large bites with each pass and usually keep each pass to 1/16" or less. As long as I don that I don't think any other planer would match the surface finish I get. However, this means that either I get my wood planed to less than 8/4 (maybe 15/16") or allocate more time to get the wood to thickness.

In the end, since I don't use the planer everyday and only plane what I need for each project, the 735 works well regardless of the increased number of passes required. I can't believe any larger heavier duty planer would give a better finish.

Noise is vibration traveling through the air. It very much makes sense that a stationary machine that weighs upwards of half a ton will create less audible noise than a portable unit that can be picked up by one person.

Weight / mass, is really the key. Adding more mass to many tools will make them better. The other thing to consider is the speed of the moving parts. Consider a router running at 25,000 RPM vs a stationary spindle shaper running at 8000 RPM. The spindle shaper weighs more (a plus), and the lower RPM means the moving parts are not hitting the air as hard. Both of these things combine to result in not only less noise overall but a much less bothersome pitch of noise.

[Allan Speers]

Noise is vibration traveling through the air. It very much makes sense that a stationary machine that weighs upwards of half a ton will create less audible noise than a portable unit that can be picked up by one person.

Weight / mass, is really the key. Adding more mass to many tools will make them better. The other thing to consider is the speed of the moving parts. Consider a router running at 25,000 RPM vs a stationary spindle shaper running at 8000 RPM. The spindle shaper weighs more (a plus), and the lower RPM means the moving parts are not hitting the air as hard. Both of these things combine to result in not only less noise overall but a much less bothersome pitch of noise.

That's an important point.

What I used to do with my Makita lunchbox: I glued a little lip of plywood all around the top. Then, after I had the planer in-place on my feed table, I had a concrete block, with several layers of 3/4" MDF glued to its bottom, which I placed on top of the planer. Besides helping to keep it in place, it definitely cut down on the noise a little bit. Not a LOT, but, you know .....