Shaper cutter - Help me find please

[Sam Murdoch]

Can anyone please direct me to a 1/2" or3/4" bore shaper door set for 3/4" stock - rail and stile matching tongue and groove that will cut a slot for 1/4" plywood panel that measures 1/2" deep? OH - and that doesn't cost $500.00 :eek:.

Been a long time since I've needed to buy a shaper cutter set. I'm in shock.

Maybe I'm not looking in the right place. Similar to the FREEBORN - MC-51-500

I ONLY need the 1/4" groove not the 1/2" too - hoping I can find a more dedicated cutter. The 5/8" depth is OK but 1/2" is what I'm matching. 3/8" deep could be an option too.

359756

Thank you for your help.

[James Zhu]

https://www.infinitytools.com/rail-stile-for-cabinet-door-shaper-cutters
https://www.infinitytools.com/ssearch?q=83-038

Use 83-057 with 83-038, total cost $180.

[Bill Dufour]

I am not sure why the groove depth matters? Sure deeper is stronger, I suppose, but you will only see that on the end since the plywood is buried in the groove.
Bill D.

[Sam Murdoch]

I am not sure why the groove depth matters? Sure deeper is stronger, I suppose, but you will only see that on the end since the plywood is buried in the groove.
Bill D.

I'm building to match existing and with 4-1/2" stiles and rails the 1/2" depth seems appropriate. If I do less depth I will want to reinforce with Dominos but would rather avoid the extra work.


THANKS for the links JAMES.

[Mel Fulks]

Look at the MLCS $90 set

[Sam Murdoch]

I've had in my possession, for week or 2 now, a box of very nice shaper cutters that I received as part of a bigger purchase here on the Creek. I didn't know quite what I had by way of the cutters until I referenced their numbers to the catalog. Now I know that I have a "shaker" door set with the cutter to create a 3/8" deep slot. The slot height can vary from 3/16" to 5mm using a variety of shims as needed to increase the height of the slot for the thickness of the panel. Not the 1/2" or deeper slot that I would prefer.

Since my rails and stiles are 3/4" thick X 4-1/2" wide, for doors that will be 23" to 64" tall (the taller doors with mid-rails) and all generally 24" or less wide. wouldn't you agree that a 3/8" deep rail end tenon is not adequate? Since I don't want to spend the $600.00 to buy the 5/8" slot cutter that I referenced in my first post I see only 2 options.

1) Use the "shaker" cutter set I have and call it good.

2) Add a few 6x40 mm Dominos at the end of each rail in addition to the cutter profile. This will give me two 3/4" deep tenons at each joint.

Would you agree that this extra "joinery" is necessary or am I overthinking this? The 4-1/2" wide stock is exceptional (in my experience) for cabinet doors.
I'm concerned about the leverage that a swinging door could have on those 3/8" joints, and so I ask.

Thanks you again for helping work this out.

[Mel Fulks]

Yes,the doors are bigger than some ,but so is the rail size. Can't remember what you said about panels,if they are plywood ,you could glue those,too

[Bradley Gray]

How about deepening the groove with a dado blade on the table saw?

[Martin Wasner]

Considering your rail size, I wouldn't sweat it. If you want to toss some dominos in there, it won't hurt anything. You could've had them cut in, in less time than it'd take responding to this thread.

I would cut the dominoes in before machining the sticking and cope cuts I think.

[Larry Edgerton]

You still have a mortising machine Sam? You could use the cutters but add a 1" haunched tenon that would disappear once the doors are built. This is something I have done before on large pantry door that mimic the rest of the normal size cabinet doors. Should be easy with a shaker profile, many ways to cut longer tenons. Not really crazy about domino's for things that I want accurate, prefer other methods.

[Sam Murdoch]

Yes,the doors are bigger than some ,but so is the rail size. Can't remember what you said about panels,if they are plywood ,you could glue those,too

Panels are 1/4" veneered MDF. I suppose the wider rail does equate with a long glue surface which compensates for the little tenon. (Sorry if this hits too close to home for some of you. :D)


How about deepening the groove with a dado blade on the table saw?

The groove is not the issue but rather the stubby tenon in the rails that these cutters produce - 3/8" long x 1/4" thick.


Considering your rail size, I wouldn't sweat it. If you want to toss some dominos in there, it won't hurt anything. You could've had them cut in, in less time than it'd take responding to this thread.

I would cut the dominoes in before machining the sticking and cope cuts I think.

Yes ^ much easier to register the Domino on flat edges and no tear out on the slotted stiles.


You still have a mortising machine Sam? You could use the cutters but add a 1" haunched tenon that would disappear once the doors are built. This is something I have done before on large pantry door that mimic the rest of the normal size cabinet doors. Should be easy with a shaker profile, many ways to cut longer tenons. Not really crazy about domino's for things that I want accurate, prefer other methods.

Larry, you must be confusing me with another Sam :) - never have I owned a mortising machine. I'm pretty comfortable with using the Dominos and achieving excellent tolerances. Just thinking out loud as to the benefit in this case. Lots more work. Is it warranted?????

Maybe Mel's suggestion that the wide rail equates to a long glue joint is the answer. That is what you are saying, right Mel?

Thank you all for your thoughts.

[lowell holmes]

Check Amazon, they have one.

[James Zhu]

I add 6x40 domino on some large cabinet doors (cope and stick) I made before, the rail and stile are 20mm thick, 50mm wide, the door dimension is 24" x 42" with middle rail. I used my DF700 to make the mortise before routing the rail and stile. Not only the domino made the joint stronger, also made the door glue up easier.

[Sam Murdoch]

I wish I could edit this thread title as I (the OP) have changed the direction of this discussion with post # 6.

In summary - since my first post I have decided that I am not buying a $ 500 to $600.00 cutter that does more than I need or want for this one job. I have a somewhat suitable cutter set in house but I am still concerned that the joint it creates will be inadequate. I'm pretty certain that if I do a test glue up it will require destruction of the test pieces to make the joint fail. I don't think though that such a test will accurately represent the real world stresses that could be imparted over the life of a cabinet door - WITH 4-1/2" x 3/4" RAILS and STILES - To add 6x400 mm Dominos or not? :confused: Still thinking on this.

This job has clearly taken me out of my comfort zone, which is obvious if you have read my other thread on the subject. The old dog has been kicked off the sofa and made to hunt :D. Can't hoit :rolleyes:

[Erik Christensen]

I made a tall (>6') frame & panel door for a broom closet in my kitchen using the exact tooling you describe - no dominos & little stubby tenon and all - glued the 1/4" mdf panels to the rails/styles - used 4 cup hinges and call'd it a day

4 years later still going strong - I would not do that for a floating solid wood panel but from my experience you are overthinking it :)

[Jim Becker]

The haunched tenon that Larry mentions is a good workaround for the 3/8" deep groove, even if it's a "loose" tenon for practicality. It's about glue surface for the joints.

[Phillip Gregory]

Depending on exactly how thick your plywood is, the 6x10 mm tongue and groove set for the Euroblock cutters (nearly always called #16 and #17) might just work, and you can buy both the tongue and the groove knives for about $40 in total. A 3/4" bore aluminum head to take the knives is about a hundred bucks but there are about 170 different knife profiles you can run in them. 6 mm is just a fuzz under 1/4" (6.35 mm) but most plywood is a touch thin today anyways. 10 mm isn't quite 1/2" but it's close and might be close enough for you.

If you really need 1/4" tongues and grooves 1/2" deep, get a 1/4" groover to cut the grooves (~$50 for a decent one) and a 1/4" spacer and a pair of 3/8" or taller groovers or rabbeting cutters to cut the tongues. That will probably cost you about $200 in all. The one thing you will have to do with that setup vs. the stacked cutters is you will have to set your tongue depth yourself rather than simply coping past stacked cutters which will cut the piece to length if you have the piece set a little "long" with your coping sled or sliding table.