HuanYang VFD parameters. Help!

[John TenEyck]

My friend bought a HuanYang VFD, single phase 220V input to 3-phase 230V output to run a 5 HP motor, on his awesome (we hope) Zefam jointer. I have it wired and powered up, programmed the VFD after watching a couple of YouTube videos and studying the manual, such as it is. I have gotten the motor to try to start, but it trips out during acceleration and never comes up to full speed. When that happens I get an error message that says it's over current during ramp up. Most times I get that same message and the motor doesn't move at all. I've contacted the motor manufacturer TechTop and they have confirmed the motor is compatible with a VFD. I've tried to contact the HuanYang seller but haven't heard back yet.

I've input all the parameters outlined in the YouTube videos I've watched, the obvious stuff like motor volts, amps, rpm, poles, but the motor doesn't run so it must be something else. There is a parameter for Motor No-Load Current and the factory default is 40. There is no LRA listed on the motor plate, but there is a KVA code J, from which I calculated the LRA as 94 amps. Should I replace the NO-Load Current value of 40 with 94? That could explain the over current error message I keep getting. But what I know about this you can put in a thimble so that's why I'm here.

I have double checked the internal motor wiring and it's correct.

Does anyone have experience with HuanYang VFD's? I'd sure appreciate some help. Thanks.

John

[Patrick Irish]

Can you post a pic of your wiring into the VFD? Also the model of your VFD? There are lots of VFD by HuanYang. I just got one, a 4k 3 phase output. The important piece is it's supposed to be 1 phase input. Is yours a 1 phase input? If it's a 3 phase input ONLY it won't work, you have to double the size of the VFD.

My model is a HY04D023B. Here is a picture. Does your's look like this with the same model?

This will likely be a useful thread as more and more people are using the 5hp 4kw model.

http://i.imgur.com/0yaa3EAl.png

[Matt Day]

You're getting some good advice over at WN. It shouldn't be this hard. I've installed 6 or so now and none needed delving into the nitty gritty like you're doing. I haven't done a HY, but I have done a cheap eBay HY look a like and the hardest part was wiring an external switch. There are a lot of happy HY users out there - have you searched on OWWM yet? Or Practical Machinist?

[Matt Day]

Patrick - Looks like you forgot to attach the pic FYI.

[Dan Friedrichs]

I'm not familiar with that VFD, in particular, but I'm sure any VFD has the ability to set the ramp-up speed. You probably just have it set too slow, and it's trying to start too fast. Set the "accel speed" (or something similar) to a longer duration and try it.

[Bill Dufour]

Acceleration should be not less then 3 seconds, braking similar or the VFD will overload. You post does not say what horsepower the FVD is rated for. Is the motor single speed and what voltage is it wired for. If it is belt drive disconnect the belt so only the motor is turning. It could be bad bearing. How are you switching the vfd and motor on and off?

[Bill Dufour]

94 amps at 220 volts is insane FLA for woodworking. that is somewhere between 30-40 horsepower. Five horsepower should be something around 15 amps FLA on three phase. maybe double that for inrush if there was no VFD.
Bill

[Tom Trees]

Hello John
What message comes up when you say over current during ramp up ?
If you are using the same terminology as in the manual, you should not need to program the parameters you are talking about.
I presume you have watched the youtube vid by DJB HSI ...since you mentioned youtube vids.
Maybe it would be a good idea to take the load off the motor ...disconnect the belts, if adjusting the ramp up does not work.

Might as well write this for the sake of it....
Doubtful, but have you installed a pot? ....I have since disconnected mine on my bandsaw, since it kept making my 2.2kw VFD malfunction.
There is a master reset along with parameter reset on the 2.2kw.
I program PD13 to 1 instead of 8 for reset....(Older version apparently)...
And the other one when it malfunctions is to take off, just the front panel (2 screws)...there is a ribbon cable that is connected to the control remote.
Disconnect and reconnect it, and it will work again , and not display the dreaded Huanyang LV error code
Wait for the capacitors to bleed off the stored power before attempting to dismantle anything.
Hope the machine is a cracker
Good luck
Tom

[John TenEyck]

Thanks all, much appreciated. I agree, it shouldn't be this hard, at least from watching the You Tube videos it looked easy, but something is not right. I have the HY04D023B, 4 KW unit, exactly the same as you show Patrick. It is single phase 220V input, 3 phase 230 V output to a 5 HP 3 phase motor that has a FLA rating of 12.2. The 94 amps I talked about earlier is the calculated locked rotor amps.

I have line power coming directly to the VFD and output directly from the VFD to the motor. I'll install a disconnect and on/off switch once I get it to run. I've checked the motor wiring, twice, and it's correct internally and from the VFD.

I started by doing a parameter reset at PD013=8, and then programmed in the parameters the video outlined. The motor sometimes begins to ramp up, ever so slowly, when I hit Run, but then trips out with and E.OC.A error message, which stands for Error. Over Current. At Acceleration. Other times, I get that message immediately when I press Run w/o the motor moving at all. I have nothing on the motor now, but it still won't start.

Patrick, can you send me the parameters you have input for your motor? That might do it for me. Thanks everyone.

John

[Tom Trees]

Hi John
I'm just gonna ask the basics so the pro's don't have to ...
They can focus on the more complicated stuff.
It might make good reading for some folks...

Presuming that the motor is dual voltage, as in... it's got 220v (triangle embalm for low voltage delta) stamped on the motor nameplate.
Presuming you have changed over the straps on the motor terminals from star 400v to delta 230v ?
How many seconds have you programmed in for startup ?
Is your motor turning backwards ? could this be a problem ?

My basic parameters and regime is on my machines are as follows...

Change over terminal straps to suit low voltage mode...
Hit PD13 and do a factory reset ..1 in my case not 8 ....2.2KW version don't know bout the rest.
PD3 50HZ I'm in Ireland ...60HZ in USA
PD4 50HZ... USA 60HZ
PD5 50HZ... USA 60HZ
PD8 230V in Ireland
PD14 acceleration ...set to motor load ..I have it to 7 seconds for 24" bandsaw ..don't want to strain VFD
PD15 decelerate ...I have set mine to 20 seconds or more as to not strain VFD (parts not present in my VFD's for external breaking resistor)
PD44 forward rotation is 2
PD46 stop is 4
PD141 is motor voltage 230v in Ireland I have experimented and found no difference between 220/230/240V
PD142 motor current 8.10A on my 2.2KW bandsaw in delta configuration
PD143 motor pole number... 2870 RPM on my bandsaw that means it's a 2 pole motor... so " 2 "
PD144 Motor RPM 2870 on my bandsaw

If motor goes in reverse ...swap any 2 of the motor output wires U V or W around to change rotation....WAIT FOR POWER TO DRAIN from capacitors !!!!

When I wire up switches, I change PD1 to 1 for external buttons .
To have 3 wire control i.e .. a start and a stop button
FORward terminal into a green NO (normally open start button) the other side of the switch goes into the RST TERMINAL
DCM terminal goes into red NC (normally closed switch) the other side goes into the RST terminal also ...(wrap both wires together)
This wire will not give you a shock and you can handle these before wiring up into switches.
The stop wires must be together for the system to work...
then with the start wires you just strike them together for a second and she runs...
Pull the stop wires apart and she stops.

Hope this helps somebody
Good luck
Tom

[Patrick Irish]

Patrick, can you send me the parameters you have input for your motor? That might do it for me. Thanks everyone.

John

:eek:

I just got mine last week, flipped through the manual, and put it back in the box. Need to run a new 220 outlet first as I'm sharing my dryer outlet with the table saw and jointer. I can't even figure out where the 'line in' goes from the wall and the 3 phase out is to the motor.

Figured posting up the model # and picture panel will others searching. Many amazon and ebay sellers do not specify which model it is.

[John TenEyck]

Thanks for all the details on how your unit is set up, Tom. I went up to my friend's this AM and did a reset on the VFD (PD013=8), then started over, and entered only those parameters related to the motor and incoming power, and accepted everything else as the factory defaults. The acceleration is 15 seconds. Won't start. Same E.OC.A error message. I tried turning the motor by hand as I hit the Run button; no luck.

We called the motor shop where my friend bought the motor and confirmed that they had run the motor at 230V, 3 phase power before he picked it up, and I confirmed again that the motor leads are joined correctly and correct from the motor to the VFD. I added a separate ground cable from the motor back to the VFD grounding lug, for safety, but that had no influence on starting, and it shouldn't.

Here is what I have set the parameters at. If it ain't listed, it's the factory default.

PD003 = main freq. = 60 hz
PD004 = Base freq. = 60 hz
PD005 = Min.Operating Freq. = 60 hz
PD008 = Max. Voltage = 220 V
PD014 = Accel. Time 1 = 15 sec, which is the default, just confirming what it's at
PD015 - Decel. Time = didn't check, but should be 15 sec.
PD141 = Motor Voltage = 230V
PD142 = Rated Motor Amps. = 12.2 A from FLA on motor plate
PD143 = Motor Pole Number = 2
PD144 = Motor Revolutions = 3510
PD146 = Motor No Load Current = 4 A

Anyone here have a HuanYang VFD with 1 phase input running a 3 phase motor? If so, what are your inputs for the above parameters and what am I missing? Thanks very much.

John

[Tom Trees]

Hi John
I would not trust what they say is default , It may not be.
And parameter reset might not be 8 either.
On the 2.2kw VFD you have to type it in seconds and not a number that determines a set time.
Type it in manually if you can, or change it to a longer time.
Can you turn the shaft by hand?

You say it was ran at 230V and you double checked it...
So can confirm that the straps are connected for delta voltage like so...
359476
Are you still trying to run this without load ?
Can your motor run backwards ...is there something stopping this from happening ?

[John TenEyck]

Hi Tom,

Thanks for your continued help. The motor turns freely by hand and there are no belts on it Yes, the motor can run backwards as far as I know. When it did try to start it turned in the direction I needed so I didn't pursue it any further. I would have swapped two of the leads had it run backwards, as one normally does with 3 phase motors. The motor is a YY type per the motor manufacturer (TechTop model GR3-CI-TF-184T-2-B-D-5). There are 9 leads in the motor box. For 230 volts 3 of the leads are bundled together and pairs of the 6 remaining leads go to each of the 3 incoming power legs from the VFD.

With this VFD you input numbers by pushing the up/down buttons in the blinking field and you move from one digit to the next by pushing the scroll (>>) button. There is no keypad per se. I have checked the acceleration time and it is 15 seconds; should be infinitely long with nothing connected to the motor. Also, PD013 = 8 does work to take it back to the factory defaults; I have verified it twice now.

More thoughts? I hope.

John

[John TenEyck]

Well, I guess you are going to learn a lot about this thing - assuming we get mine sorted out before you get to yours.

The line in connections are R, S, and T (any 2 for single phase incoming power), and E is your ground wire. Power out to the motor are connections U, V, W. These are on the bottom buss inside the lower VFD panel. It's on pages 9, 10, and 12 of the manual.

John

[Tom Trees]

Hello again
Whats PD01 set to ...should be 0 without swtchgear.
You did not mention PD44 or PD 46,
I think I matched PD8 with PD141 and I tried 220/230/240V.
Is there any instance where PD13 is set to 1 on the net for your size VFD ...Mine does a reset on 8 also, but some things are slightly different.
I would try a different accel time for the crack ..you get quick at entering these after a while.
And try entering decel time also
I have never touched PD146
Sorry I can't be more help that's about the best of my knowledge.
Verification necessary on the following .....
Maybe you could try getting another motor to try and see if it runs ...
I think you can run a smaller motor on a larger rated VFD
You seem to be doing parameter resets anyway, might be worth a shot

Tom
Good luck

[Matt Day]

Should PD008 and PD141 be equal? Is your voltage at the line in higher than 220V by any chance?

[John TenEyck]

Hi Tom,

Thanks again. Yes. PD001 = 0 as I'm not using an external switch yet. I have tried 220V and 230V for PD008 (line voltage) and PD141 (motor voltage), both the same at each level, and just 220V for PD008 and 230V for PD141, with no effect. When the motor did try to start, both values were at 220V. No clue if PD013 can be reset using 1, but I know it works with 8, as the manual instructs. I'll check the decel time, but I'm pretty sure it's 15 seconds. Not sure why that value would influence starting, however, regardless of what value is entered. PD146 is the no-load current and the factory default is 40 amps. The times the motor tried to start that was the value in the VFD. I changed it to 4 when TechTop told me the motor had a no-load current value of 4 amps, but it hasn't helped solve the problem, but likely hasn't hurt either.

I would try a smaller motor if I had one. The HY model I have is rated at 4 KW (5.4 HP) and 18 amps and the motor we're using is 5 HP with a FLA rating of 12.2. One would think it should work OK, but ....


John

[Matt Day]

You should ask in the electrical section of OWWM. There are lots of very well versed VFD folks over there.
There's always the possibily you have a dud. Also, might have been a good idea to buy a more supported VFD such as a TECO from Factorymation. 20/20 hindsight I know.

[Tom Trees]

I talked to "Cindy" and got good feedback ...these guys are so cool...
Its only earth, it doesn't matter :p
I suggested entering a decel value, as there might be a requirement for this to be entered for it to run.
I suggested the ramp up adjustment change, as it might not be correct in the book either.
I'd stick to what parameters I entered and see what happens ..with no load .

I have heard of motors with a DC brake ...would this have something to do with it ?
Hope you get this running
Tom

[John TenEyck]

Thanks very much Tom. I assume "Cindy" is your HY contact? OK, I'll try PD014 = 7 sec. and PD015 = 20 sec. and see if that does it. As far as I know, this motor has no internal braking. TechTop says "the motor is designed to the NEMA MG1 Part 31 requirements so it is perfectly capable of running on a VFD.". Knowing nothing about this, I'll take him at his word.

John

[Malcolm McLeod]

John,
The law of halves: Is it the motor or the drive?

Drive - -
Have you tried to run this at greatly reduced speed - - say 10-15Hz? Even if there is a configuration problem in the VFD, this should keep the current below the over-current trip threshold. If it will run at low speed, root cause is probably the VFD. So, halve it again: Is it the config or the hardware? (I don't know this particular drive, so may be of limited help on this side of it.)

Motor - -
If it won't run at low speed, it is probably the motor (??shorted?? perhaps in spite of what the motor shop said.)

Also, I don't remember if you said this is first experience with a VFD. If it is a 1st, VFDs make motors emit a rather unique 'ring' with nearly any non-zero speed output. Not sure if this is a help, or how to interpret silence, but if it does ring, I'd suspect the VFD config.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Another possibility - - Look carefully in the manual for the units of the accel/decel times. It is very common in the automation/control world to express time setpoints as milliseconds. So your '2' might be a neck-snapping 2msec. Or, maybe its in 10ths of seconds (so your '2' is still very fast 0.2sec). Set the accel parameter to 4000 (or as high as you can get it?) and see what happens. ...I know this is a shot in the dark.

[John TenEyck]

Thanks very much Malcolm. First VFD (nightmare) experience. The time unit in the manual for accel/decel time is S; I take that to mean seconds. The range is 01 - 6500.0 S, however, which seems extraordinarily long, but what do I know. I did try accel times all the way up to 100 S with no luck.

I did try setting the main freq. to 5 Hz and it tripped out. However, the base freq. was still 60 Hz. I can try setting the main, base, and max. frequencies to 10 or 15 Hz and see what happens. Probably won't get to it 'till tomorrow afternoon, though. In the end, I think the motor is fine; it's brand new and the motor shop said they ran it, so ....

When the motor did start to run the once or two times it did, I didn't hear anything obvious.

John

[CPeter James]

No experience with your VFD but lots of experience with Automation Direct and after 3hp, to use single phase in ans three phase out, you need to double the rating of the VFD. Ie. for a 5hp three phase motor, you would need a 10hp VFD. Are you sure that the unit is large enough. Having said that, with no load, you should be able to run the motor, it just won't put out full HP. I did work on one of those once and the connections were a bear to get to. Are you sure that everything is connected correctly?
CPeter

[Malcolm McLeod]

...Here is what I have set the parameters at. If it ain't listed, it's the factory default.

PD003 = main freq. = 60 hz
PD004 = Base freq. = 60 hz
PD005 = Min.Operating Freq. = 60 hz
...


...
I did try setting the main freq. to 5 Hz and it tripped out.
....
When the motor did start to run the once or two times it did, I didn't hear anything obvious.
...

Sorry, I should have been more clear.
Leave PD003 & PD004 at 60Hz (respectively, these tell the VFD what to expect from the power supply and what the motor was designed for*).
Set PD005 to 10Hz (this 'hard-codes' the lowest speed that the operator can request from the keypad*).
Turn the speed 'command' down to 10-15Hz and then start the VFD ('RUN' button - or whatever its called). Coupled with a long Accel setpoint, this should keep the current draw below the trip. Hopefully.

Not sure what to tell you about the lack of 'ring'....? I've never seen a functional VFD/motor system that didn't do it.

------
* - I think this is what the parameters do - based on my very limited knowledge of this specific VFD, but filtered thru knowledge of Allen-Bradley/Woods/Siemens/Toshiba VFDs I have commissioned.

[John TenEyck]

Hi Malcolm,

Thanks very much. I think PD003 (main frequency) is the only parameter that can be adjusted from the front panel during operation on the unit I have. PD005 is the Max. Operating Frequency and has a range of 50 - 400 hz, so it can't be set to 10 hz. PD003 has a range of 0 - 400 hz.

How do you turn down the speed command? Sorry to appear so ignorant, but I really have no clue what that means or how you do it.

John

[Malcolm McLeod]

Hi Malcolm,

Thanks very much. I think PD003 (main frequency) is the only parameter that can be adjusted from the front panel during operation on the unit I have. PD005 is the Max. Operating Frequency and has a range of 50 - 400 hz, so it can't be set to 10 hz. PD003 has a range of 0 - 400 hz.

How do you turn down the speed command? Sorry to appear so ignorant, but I really have no clue what that means or how you do it.

John

Apparently the ignorance is mine... I saw the 'Min Operating Freq' in a previous post, so started making too many assumptions. ...Sorry. Lacking a manual, I will back off and stop offering opinions about the specific parameters. However, I do think the slow speed test is valid - - if we can figure out how to do it.

I realize your primary objective in using the VFD is to 'make' 3-phase power, but it's original design and intended purpose is to allow variable speed control - - so the functionality must be there. There is probably either a rotary potentiometer (speed pot) or speed UP/DWN push-buttons on the operator interface. I'll have to refer you to the operator manual (or manufacturer's web video maybe?) for how to find this.

Drop the speed preset as low as you can, and then try to run it.

[Patrick Irish]

This link may help. I'm sifting through myself.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/spindles-vfd/117782-huanyang-chinese-vfd-settings-manual.html

If you google search on their main page "HY04D023B" a few other threads pop up, nothing major though as the link above.

I was just about to forget this thing and go with a more expensive Rotary Phase Converter with a 15hp motor....but I think I'll give it a try with the information provided here on and via that link above.

Also a quick tutorial. Might be entering through menus wrong.

http://yertiz.com/cnc/inverter.pdf

[John TenEyck]

Hi All,

Just got back from another frustrating hour with it - still no luck. PD003 is the parameter where you can change the frequency directly on the control interface. I set it to 5, 10, 20, 50 - no luck. E.OC.A every time. I changed PD014 (Accel) to 7, 10, 30, 50. Same result. I changed PD015 (Decel) to 10, 15, 30, 50. Same result. I changed stop from braking to free spin. Same.

I had an ammeter on one of the 120V supply wires to the VFD. It registered a fairly constant 0.2 to 0.3 A. The peak hold didn't not show any spikes, nor did I see the ammeter blip at all when it tripped out. It's just not sending power to the motor.

I'm getting to the last of my patience with this thing. I think there are just a few options left. Someone has this unit running something and can send me the parameters that work for them. I send the VFD back for a replacement. I send it back for a refund and buy another brand. I pull the motor and VFD out and take it to the motor shop that the motor came from so they can confirm the motor is good and we can test the VFD on another motor, and go from there.

Thanks very much everyone for your help.

John

[Peter Kuhlman]

Have you tried running the motor with no load - belt disconnected?

Are you positive it is a good motor?

Have you verified input voltage? Especially during startup? (Looking for voltage drop causing high current draw)

Edit - just read your post above. With no current draw something is reall wrong. Normal industrial drives can be test run with no motor attached to verify that the settings allow proper start sequence. It should show frequency ramp up.

[John TenEyck]

Thanks for your input Peter. Yes, no belts on the motor pulley. Good motor? I don't know; it's brand new and the motor shop ran it before we installed it. Yes, we have verified input voltage. From what others have said, these VFD's cannot be test run; they need to see the motor before power is transmitted to it.

John

[John TenEyck]

Thanks for your input CPeter. I hope you are wrong about the need for the VFD to have 2X capacity with single phase input. The unit is rated 4 KW and 18 amps at 230V on the 3 phase output side. The motor requires 12.2 FLA, so I would think the VFD is large enough as long as the start up amps are kept under control, and the single phase supply has sufficient amps available. We have it on a 220V, 30 amp service, which used to run a 5 HP single phase motor.

John

[Tom Trees]

At this stage John ..
I don't believe sending it back would be the easiest to do with these devices.
Do you think it might have run at the very start, before something went wrong?
I don't believe what I'm suggesting would be against the manufactures advice, as I've seen folks change this cable with a longer one,
I would try the parameter reset along with this "other" parameter reset ...pulling out the keypad ribbon cable from the socket and plugging it in again.
You say what I'm referring to it is not a keypad ...call it what you want..its the device with the buttons.
This will do a reset on the 2.2kw ...it sounds like I'm talking rubbish, but it worked for me.
Just two screws to remove the front panel ...this can be done while the VFD is mounted.
You have got nothing to loose, you don't have to mention if you tried it or not.
Good luck
Tom

[Patrick Irish]

Thanks for your input CPeter. I hope you are wrong about the need for the VFD to have 2X capacity with single phase input. The unit is rated 4 KW and 18 amps at 230V on the 3 phase output side. The motor requires 12.2 FLA, so I would think the VFD is large enough as long as the start up amps are kept under control, and the single phase supply has sufficient amps available. We have it on a 220V, 30 amp service, which used to run a 5 HP single phase motor.

John

From my research, 2x the horsepower is only needed when the VFD is a 3 phase input only and it needs to be derated.

[John TenEyck]

Thanks Patrick. The VFD did not run at the very start. I tried several times before it did start bringing the motor up to speed, but then tripped out at around 2000 rpm. I repeated that after a change or two. Since then, nothing. Before I pull the front of the unit off and disconnect the cable as you suggest, do you know anything about PD072 "High Analog Frequency"? Someone else said to make sure it's set to 60 hz. The default is 50 hz, so I'm sure that's what mine is at now. Pulling the front off requires breaking a factory seal, so I'm sure it can't be returned if I do that.

John

[Peter Kuhlman]

Is the drive built specifically to operate with single phase supply? If it is designed to be normally fed 3 phase power the following applies. How many power terminals does it have on the input side?

If the drive is rated to match the motor with normal 3 phase in and out it will NOT work. The input side must draw enough amperage to generate power to create the missing phase to the output but having single phase input means the drive MUST be oversized to function. Using Allen Bradley drives we were required to double the horse power rating and with Toshiba drives we needed a minimum 50% overrating as per the manufacturer. We used 30HP drives for 15HP motors when run on single phase.

What is the input amperage rating? This is a critical stat if the drive is designed as a 3 phase input. It needs to be at least 50% higher than the drive output load meaning the motor amperage - not the drive output rating.

[Tom Trees]

Hi John
All the factory settings with a regular parameter reset have set both my 2.2KW VFD's to 50HZ.
I don't know much atall about this stuff by the way!
I would think this might be written down elsewhere if PD72 is important ...
If someone said change it to 60HZ I would guess it could do no harm...it might be a good idea to look that guy up who said so though...
Most folks on these youtube vid's seem to be from the USA and (seem to me "an uneducated layman") knowledgeable enough to know if this
would make a difference.
Here is a link and title to the forum page where I learned about this alternative parameter reset ...granted its not the same error code as you
but it might help.
Problem Huanyang inverter is hang on startup (https://www.google.ie/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjit4nXi9XTAhVGKcAKHeSLD3gQrAIIMigAMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cnczone.com%2Fforums%2Fdynomo tion-kflop-kanalog%2F305474-huanyang-inverter-hang-startup.html&usg=AFQjCNFtoL1ujFeelN9Xx4BKSCl1pFlnWg)
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/dynomotion-kflop-kanalog/305474-huanyang-inverter-hang-startup.html

On my VFD's the tamper seal is on the second main panel, not the front one I'm talking about ...I don't know if this reset will work on your VFD ...
but if I remember correctly, I think someone said these things share parts ...possibly in the missing video below.
I think there was a video your model on youtube by AvE titled something like teardown and repair of ac inverter ...it seems to be gone now though.
There is another forum thread titled huanyang inverter all available error codes, maybe this might shed some light.
Since you said it ran for a very very brief time....I'd still have hope, if ya haven't seen the shmoke
Tom

[Tom Trees]

Hi John
All the factory settings with a regular parameter reset have set both my 2.2KW VFD's to 50HZ.
I don't know much atall about this stuff by the way!
I would think this might be written down elsewhere if PD72 is important ...
If someone said change it to 60HZ I would guess it could do no harm...it might be a good idea to look that guy up who said so though...
Most folks on these youtube vid's seem to be from the USA and (seem to me "an uneducated layman") knowledgeable enough to know if this
would make a difference.
Here is a link and title to the forum page where I learned about this alternative parameter reset ...granted its not the same error code as you
but it might help.
Problem Huanyang inverter is hang on startup (https://www.google.ie/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjit4nXi9XTAhVGKcAKHeSLD3gQrAIIMigAMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cnczone.com%2Fforums%2Fdynomo tion-kflop-kanalog%2F305474-huanyang-inverter-hang-startup.html&usg=AFQjCNFtoL1ujFeelN9Xx4BKSCl1pFlnWg)
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/dynomotion-kflop-kanalog/305474-huanyang-inverter-hang-startup.html

On my VFD's the tamper seal is on the second main panel, not the front one I'm talking about ...I don't know if this reset will work on your VFD ...
but if I remember correctly, I think someone said these things share parts ...possibly in the missing video below.
I think there was a video your model on youtube by AvE titled something like teardown and repair of ac inverter ...it seems to be gone now though.
There is another forum thread titled huanyang inverter all available error codes, maybe this might shed some light.
Since you said it ran for a very very brief time....I'd still have hope, if ya haven't seen the shmoke
Tom

[Matt Day]

Get a refund. You're spending so much time (and frustration), it's not worth it.

If I were you I'd call Jack Forsberg since your at 5hp (3 and below I'd suggest a TECO FM50). His contact info is in the thread below.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?251559-VFD-for-5HP-3phase-Jointer

[Malcolm McLeod]

John, its tough to help troubleshoot from 1500 miles away - - but its starting to sound like Matt is right.

Seems like mean time between failure on electronics is ~15 years anymore. But that means a device will either fail in 30 years, or fail in 30 seconds. This VFD may be the 30sec proof?

[John TenEyck]

This VFD is designed for either 1 phase or 3 phase input. I have it wired to a 220V, 1 phase, 30 amp line, using 2 of the 3 input terminals as described in the manual. You use all 3 terminals if running 3 phase input. I can find nothing in the specs that list the input amp requirements, only the output of 18 amps, 3 phase.

John

[Patrick Irish]

Infor buried on Owwm.org


....The documentation on these drives suck! and B) that the drives are set up by default for 50Hz power. I've read this issue a BUNCH! Make sure the drive is either set for 60Hz and/or the parameter for motor rpm is adjusted accordingly. It appears many people have still had to set the drive parameter for rpm, regardless of any other setting, to 2850 for a 3450 motor to get the motor to run at 3450. I don't know if this has any effect on your motor loading or amp draw but it's just a heads up!

[John TenEyck]

Hi Tom,

Well, we set PD072 to 60 hz, no change, didn't think it would, it looks to be related to some other control approach. We also set PD008 (max. voltage) to 230V to match PD141 (motor voltage). Nothing.

I got a message from the Ebay seller of the VFD asking for a video of the problem. Really? I sent them a picture. Haven't heard anything back yet.

We are looking at alternatives, including going to a static phase converter. Electronics are wonderful - when they work, but tried and true is better. Of course, a single phase motor would be better than the static phase converter, but we don't have that option at this point.


John

[Matt Day]

Before you rule out VFD's, at least call Jack. Good luck with the return. Update us.

[Patrick Irish]

I found a 2015 post on Owwm where a someone was using a 5hp HY04D023B. I messaged them for info and their parameters. This is their response below, maybe it will help.


This VFD works as it should with my 5HP radial arm saw. Please note that I don't over work it or use it everyday and the only issue I've had has been when sometimes cutting thicker wood it will give me an over-current at constant speed error (E.0.C.n). This may be my circuit feeding the VFD or the saw but not sure as I haven't had time to trouble shoot it.

I control the start/stop with a magnetic switch and I have an emergency stop switch as well. These simply make/break the continuity of the FOR/DCM (COM) external inputs.


Model: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TOP-QUALITY-220V-4KW-5HP-VARIABLE-FREQUENCY-DRIVE-INVERTER-VFD-/261236961617?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123


Parameters:


PD001= 1 (external start/stop switch)
PD003 = 60 Hz
PD004 = 60 Hz
PD005 = 60 Hz


PD008 = 230 Volts


PD044 = 2 (Forward Rotation)


PD141 = 230 Volts
PD142 = 13 Amps
PD143 = 4
PD144 = 3480 RPM

I received this message from the ebay seller after ordering:


Dear friend,

I hope you are having a good day! If you don't know how to make the proper electrical connections, the following will help you:

Connect "R" and "T" (at the inverter) to the single phase power supply. You could also connect "R" and "S" or "S" and "T". Both ways are ok.

If you use it with three phase input, then connect the three phase power supply to "R, S T", and then connect the "U, V, W " to the load.

If you use this VFD for a motor 0-400Hz, Please set the parameters of the VFD as follows - step by step - and don't change the sequence:

Step 1: Set PD005 =400
Step 2: Set PD004 =400
Step 3: Set PD003 =400
Step 4: Set PD072 =400


If your motor is 0-60Hz, then you need to change the above "400" values to "60”. The orginal factory value setting is "50", so it must be changed if you are not using 50Hz power.

[John TenEyck]

Thanks Patrick; much appreciated. The last part is interesting, that the sequence in which those parameters are entered is important. I've read others say it is completely irrelevant, as it should be. But what the heck, we'll try it. Thanks.

John

[John TenEyck]

We tried the specific order to enter those parameters. No change. There probably is something else wrong with the VFD anyway, but I'd say that it's urban legend non the less.

My friend has had enough. He's buying a static phase converter from a company less then 10 miles from my house and we'll get it installed this weekend. Losing 1/3 of the HP probably won't matter anyway and for $60 it's cheap to get him running.

I really appreciate the help everyone offered with this. It's great to have such knowledgeable people here willing to take the time to look for solutions.

John

[Patrick Irish]

Man I was really hoping we'd get it running so when I wire mine it works without bugs.

I'm debating sending it back and paying more for a reputable brand or making a rotary phase converter. I emailed the amazon seller and they said it 18am input and 27amps out put.

Aside from the device itself, is that enough for single phase in and used to power my 5hp motor rated at 12 amps? It's for a old planer.

[Eric Keller]

My 5HP HY VFD worked out of the box. I am left wondering if they just didn't test it on 2 pole motors. Doesn't really make sense though, those are reasonably common, and they are cheaper.

[Tom Trees]

Patrick
I believe PD143 should be 2 instead of 4 if the motors rpm is 3480

Tom

[Bill Space]

This VFD is designed for either 1 phase or 3 phase input. I have it wired to a 220V, 1 phase, 30 amp line, using 2 of the 3 input terminals as described in the manual. You use all 3 terminals if running 3 phase input. I can find nothing in the specs that list the input amp requirements, only the output of 18 amps, 3 phase.

John


This sounds like you have a three phase input VFD, which if derated can be used on single phase as mentioned above.

One would think that a 3 phase input VFD should be able to start and run a bare motor. So whether the drive is derated or not, for testing with an unloaded motor, may be a moot point.

It is possible that the manufacturer put larger diodes on the input side so it could be used without derating on single phase. This would not impact three phase operation, aside from making the drive a little more expensive to manufacture.

So the jury is still out.

Hope you get the issue resolved soon!

Bill

[Patrick Irish]

This sounds like you have a three phase input VFD, which if derated can be used on single phase as mentioned above.

One would think that a 3 phase input VFD should be able to start and run a bare motor. So whether the drive is derated or not, for testing with an unloaded motor, may be a moot point.

It is possible that the manufacturer put larger diodes on the input side so it could be used without derating on single phase. This would not impact three phase operation, aside from making the drive a little more expensive to manufacture.

So the jury is still out.

Hope you get the issue resolved soon!

Bill

This is actually the main concern I have. The seller specifically said on their Amazon listing that this is a single phase input model.

I don't know if there is a difference between a HuanYang VFD single phase only input model OR a HuanYang single/ 3 phase input model.

I know HuanYang has 3 phase input only models. Those like all other 3 phase input models, will be derated so it's advised to get double the horsepower than the motor that's being powered.

[John TenEyck]

Yes, the motor is 3510 rpm, so it's a 2 pole motor.

John

[John TenEyck]

Patrick, I think they told you backwards. It's more likely 27 amps input at single phase and 18 amps output at 3 phase. Anyway, the unit is rated at 4 KW output, which is about 5.3 hp.

John

[Eric Keller]

I think they just put bigger caps in the single phase versions, if anything. This takes a lot longer to start up than the U.S. VFD it replaced. I should probably put an ammeter on it to see what the startup draw is.

[John TenEyck]

Just one last note on this. Whoever said I should pull off the front and disconnect the flex cable to reset the error codes - I did that today. When I put it back together and plugged it in a couple of codes I hadn't seen before flashed on the screen momentarily, and then it looked normal. OK, maybe it did something. I checked all the parameters and all but the motor voltage looked unchanged from where I had left them. The motor voltage might have gotten changed, too, I forget, it's been such a long story I'm going nuts just thinking about it. Anyway, you can guess where this is going - E.OC.A. Had I had a gun with me I would have put it out of it's misery.

We're moving on. Anyone need a never used Huan Yang 4 KW VFD? I'm sure my friend will cut you a good deal. No further response from the seller either.

I want to thank everyone one more time for your efforts to help resolve this. It was greatly appreciated, regardless of the outcome.

John

[Matt Day]

I'd file a claim with eBay.

[John TenEyck]

Oh I'm sure my friend will if the seller doesn't offer a refund.

John

[Tom Trees]

I'm sorry that didn't work for you John :(
Just for another last crack of the whip, I'd try and enter 1 instead of 8 into PD13.
"Cindy" told me ...."Oh that's the old model"
Have a look at what parameters have changed before running obviously.
I guess you might be getting super stressed out fast, at the keypad by now.

I don't know how long this flex (you have more terminology than I have) needs to be pulled out for ...I waited for about 30 seconds.
It nearly sounded like it was going to work there ...
I do hope you get this sorted
Fingers crossed for you John
Tom



If it was me I'd try just the parameters I wrote earlier only.

[Tom Trees]

I forgot to mention, on the video that seems to be disappeared, the dude mentioned/showed that the tracers was burned on the input side of his VFD.
He ran a big solder up through one of them I think, or maybe he bypassed it altogether....
Anyway since you have not used your drive I would think there's a possibility one of those tracers on the input could be damaged.
Try switching your input wires to R+T or R+S or S+T to see if you have a good connection.
Tom

[Patrick Irish]

Hi guys, have a wire gauge question for you.

Will 10/3 600v SOOW wire work? I'm powering a 5hp 12.5 amp draw motor. I don't mind being over kill on the wire to play it safe.

I need to run probably a 15-20' length from the motor to the VFD and then probably about 10ft from the VFD to the 220 outlet.

Will the 10/3 wire be able to be used for both sides of the VFD? I haven't wired anything 3 phase before and don't know if I need 10/4 wire to the motor and 10/3 from wall to VFD.

[Eric Keller]

10/3 will work on both sides. Not sure what you're going to do with the third conductor on the input side though. I saw one video that said to run it to the ground on the vfd and put ground to the case, but I decided not to do that, just terminated it inside the cabinet my vfd is in.

I usually use flexible conduit between the motor and the vfd. But like I said, I have a small cabinet on the back of my lathe to hold all the wiring and terminate the conduit.

[John TenEyck]

The end of this long saga is a happy one, but does not involve the VFD. We bought a static phase converter from a company that is actually less than 10 miles from my house. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-3-5-Hp-Static-Phase-Converter-Mill-Drill-Lathe-USA-MADE-one-three-SCM05-1-/281421594336?hash=item418608bee0:g:O94AAOSwBP9UYfc n

For the princely sum of $48 we thought, what the heck, let's try it, so we did. The installation directions are clear, though whoever wrote them should use spell check, and I got it wired in in less than an hour. Our initial tests were not entirely successful. With the belts off the motor jumped right up to full speed, but once I put the belts on it would not come up to full speed in less than 5 seconds. The manufacturer said not to let the unit run longer than 5 seconds if the red indicator light did not go out, which signals that the motor is up to speed and the voltage relay has tripped out the capacitors. I called the company and talked to the sole proprietor, a very helpful guy who must have spent 30 minutes with me, helping diagnose the problem. After some voltage checks he concluded that adding another capacitor might cure the problem and, if that didn't do it, he had a couple of more ideas. So my friend went up to his shop and picked up another capacitor and some jumpers to add it t the unit. I went up today and we tried it out. The difference was dramatic, and the motor drug that monster cutterhead, probably 60 - 70 lbs, up to full speed in just 5 seconds and the pilot light shut off. We were in business.

We cycled it a couple of times, letting it rest for a minute or two between cycles. All good. Time for a real test. We turned it on and edge jointed some 4/4 stock. Non issue. So I went and got a piece of 2 x 10 construction lumber, set the cut for something more than 1/16", and pushed it through. Another non issue. We couldn't hear any difference in the motor.

So we only have 3.3 HP now but the jointer seems to run just fine. The motor and cutterhead run very smoothly. To think that the static phase converter only cost $48 is mind boggling. Having the help of the manufacturer, however, was key to getting it to work. If you have need for a static phase converter, I can recommend the above company w/o reservations.

No additional response from the VFD supplier after they asked for photos, videos etc.; I sent them a photo. My friend will try contacting them again and, if he gets no response, will contact Ebay directly to see what they can do.

Now, back to some woodworking.

John

[Darcy Warner]

I just wired up one of these, may even be the cheaper more generic version, only 150 bucks.

Spent 10 minutes playing with parameters and it runs this old 5hp direct drive American jointer like a champ. still need to add start stop station but I did shoot a little video. I will upload it after I get home from my shop.

[John TenEyck]

I just wired up one of these, may even be the cheaper more generic version, only 150 bucks.

Spent 10 minutes playing with parameters and it runs this old 5hp direct drive American jointer like a champ. still need to add start stop station but I did shoot a little video. I will upload it after I get home from my shop.

Happy it worked out for you Darcy. We ended up going with a static phase converter. Even cheaper, $100. Works fine. If it only supplies 2/3 the power the other 1/3 wasn't needed.

John

[Eric Keller]

something I bought came with a static converter, they are very simple, but work fine. I lent it to someone and he blew it up somehow. Fixing it probably wouldn't cost very much, but I like VFD's. Sorry it didn't work out for you.

[Darcy Warner]

https://youtu.be/DrilJQTkn9I

[Matt Day]

Thanks Darcy. One day I hope to get a vintage 5hp planer that'll need that video!

[Patrick Irish]

This is promising! I think I'll run my 220 outlets this weekend. Dying to get my 5hp Powermatic planer up and running

[Patrick Irish]

Is 12 gauge wire good to use? It's rated for 20amps. My 5hp 3 phase planer motor states 12.6 amps on the nameplate. I picked up about 50ft of 12/3 from my dad and was about to use but started reading more and a post said 10 gauge is needed on the input side AND 12 gauge is fine on the output (VFD to motor) side.

I'm getting too confused to make any progress.

I currently have an extension cord I use for my 3hp Unisaw and 3hp jointer, both single phase. It's plugged into my dryer 220 in the garage. I was planning to use this cord and the put the correct male end on the VFD cord BUT noticed the dryer extension cord has a 15 amp 6-15 neme female end. That's not gonna work for my 5hp 3 phase planer correct?

I cannot for life of find a formula to figure out amp draw. If my 5hp 3 phase motor is 12.5 amps, does it only draw 12.5 of single phase amps once hooked up to the VFD or does it draw it more or less?

I can get 10 gage wire and add a 30amp male plug to it if I need to.

[Bill Dufour]

Three phase uses less amps per wire because it has three wires instead of just two like single phase uses. So you may need bigger wires into the VFD then out.
Bill D

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/elctrical-motor-full-load-current-d_1499.html

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ampere-phase-d_449.html (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/elctrical-motor-full-load-current-d_1499.html)