Installing side mount draw slides in face frame cabinet

[Len Rosenberg]

Have not done this before so looking for advice. Online videos show two ways of installing, one way the slides are shimmed out and screwed to the cabinet sides. The other way uses mounting brackets for the face frame end and for the rear, which attach to the inside of the back of the cabinet. Using the brackets would be much easier than getting shims to the exact size, but the drawers are 24" deep by 15" wide, and I'm concerned that simply using front and rear brackets would not provide enough support. Any help, tips and tricks greatly appreciated!!

Len

[Jerry Miner]

Either method will work fine. You won't be able to overload the drawer if the slide is supported with a screw or two in both front and rear.

I happen to be a "shim" guy, so I typically "pad out" the cabinet sides to flush out with the face frame, but, again, both methods work fine.

When possible, I like to design my boxes and face frames so the FF is flush to the carcase at the drawer location.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

For 20+ years we've been using full length build outs, IE, a shim that is the height of the slide (generally about 1 7/8" high), the thickness required to build out the thickness of the face frame overhang, and the full length of the slide.

We use poplar, which is inexpensive - and glue and staple to the case.

Ive repaired many other cabinets with the plastic slide mounts. The nylon seems to degrade after several years, especially in a kitchen in drawers that see hard use. Never had any issue with the way we do it, and I usually put at least 4 or 5 screws along the length of the slide.

[Len Rosenberg]

Thanks Jerry and Andrew. Andrew, not sure about plastic slide mounts, the mounts I'm referring to are steel.

[Bryan Lisowski]

I would build out the sides as well, never trusted the brackets. I think Andrew was referring to having to replace the plastic ones, not using. If I'm wrong hopefully he will correct me.

[Bob Cooper]

Well I used to attach my slides to the sides but just recently started using the rear brackets. For me the rear brackets are so much easier especially is anything is even slightly out of square

[Andrew J. Coholic]

Thanks Jerry and Andrew. Andrew, not sure about plastic slide mounts, the mounts I'm referring to are steel.

both are used. in my neck of the woods usually see plastic. I still prefer a full build out.

[Andrew J. Coholic]

I would build out the sides as well, never trusted the brackets. I think Andrew was referring to having to replace the plastic ones, not using. If I'm wrong hopefully he will correct me.



Correct. We do repairs and retrofitting in existing cabinetry. Ive seen a lot of the plastic ones broken.

[Bill Adamsen]

I build the cabinet sides flush (1/32nd-1/16th" reveal) with the inside edge of the face frame and typically don't need to shim. But I would shim - or bracket - if required. For doors requiring clearance I fold the 1/2" plywood for a custom shim as shown.

[Larry Edgerton]

Bill, that is a really nice detail, very clean.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I always shim the sides because I need / want to have more support for more weight.

I just run wood through my surface planer to get the thickness that I want, then I attach that to the sides.

So, when is this tricky / a problem? well, I have a cabinet with two drawers side by side, so, how do you install a shim there? My solution, and not a cheap one, I had a thick piece of oak and I planed it to the same thickness as my face frame, and I put that in place. A less expensive wood would have sufficed, but it is what I used.

[Bob Lang]

I vote for adding a strip to the inside of the cabinet to mount the slides to. Much easier and more predictable than the rear mount brackets. Ripping the fill strips to the correct size shouldn't be a big deal.

Bob Lang

[Larry Edgerton]

So, when is this tricky / a problem? well, I have a cabinet with two drawers side by side, so, how do you install a shim there? My solution, and not a cheap one, I had a thick piece of oak and I planed it to the same thickness as my face frame, and I put that in place. A less expensive wood would have sufficed, but it is what I used.

I do the same. A few years ago I tore out a huge deck made of CGV redwood and save all that was good, works perfectly for what you have described.

[Len Rosenberg]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions and info. Because the face frame cabinet is large and not exactly square (due to some serious plywood warping), I will use the steel brackets for max adjustablilty, and then install wood shims as well for max support. Will take extra time (installing 12 drawers) but worth the effort. Thanks!