Freud Dado Stack slightly too small for table saw arbor

[Nathan Macnamara]

Hi, first time poster long time reader...

I bought a 5/8" Freud 8" Dado Stack and found that it is too tight to fit on my table saw arbor.

The internal bore size of the Dado Stack blades are 15.84mm as measured by my calipers, while my arbor is 15.88mm (true 5/8") and all of my blades are 15.88mm - 15.90mm

Now I know that dado stacks are meant to be very tight on the arbor to prevent wobble, but it isn't possible to put these blades on my arbor at all, I even tried giving them a light tap with a rubber mallet to no avail, and I certainly don't want to damage my arbor.

I've emailed Freud customer support but they only recommend to return the item (which isn't practical for me as I'm from New Zealand and the shipping costs are the whole price of the item!). I also won't bother with trying to get these machined out by 0.04mm as it would probably cost me twice what they cost to buy.

As I only need to shave off a couple thou, if I give the bore a bit of a polish with a high grit sandpaper do you guys think this will significantly put the blades out of round and cause me issues with my cuts?

Thanks,
Nathan

[John Densmore]

Try a hand reamer.

[Nathan Macnamara]

And my 40T 10" Freud Diablo blade which I ordered before I got my Dado stack also doesn't work... Sigh.

[Bill Space]

If it only a couple thousandths of an inch, I bet you can do something yourself that will produce acceptable results.

For example, I would take a half inch dowel rod, cut a slot in the end, insert some sandpaper (cloth backed best probably) and chuck the dowel in my battery drill. Insert the dowel in the hole of the individual parts and remove some material.

I bet you could remove a couple thousandths from the bore of each piece in no time. And probable the center of the opening would not shift much. Try this on the saw blade first if you decide to do it.

If you were in the states return would be best, but you are not so need to do something more radical. Something that does not cost an arm and a leg.

Bill

[Nathan Macnamara]

Thanks Bill, I was imagining something similar but wasn't sure how badly I could mess up my blades.

[Michelle Rich]

I have to "thread" mine on..I can't get them to just go straight on...

[Michael Dye]

Michelle, you might try a step drill, or "Unibit", as they are known commercially. I know that all of those have a 5/8" step which would do what you need. Remember that the bore on the blades is hardened and you will need to be patient and use cutting oil and slow speed setting on the drill or drill press. Good luck.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Try a hand reamer.

Another vote for a ream. This application is exactly what they were designed to do.

[Rollie Kelly]

+1 for John's reply. You can buy a .626 or .627 reamer for less than a machine shop charge and have it whenever you need it. This would be much more accurate than trying to sand them out.

[Nathan Macnamara]

Can't find a 5/8" hand reamer in NZ for less than about $70 :(

[Malcolm McLeod]

Can't find a 5/8" hand reamer in NZ for less than about $70 :(

You could try this...http://www.grizzly.com/products/Chucking-Reamer-HSS-5-8-/G9433 at US$15.75. I'm sure this is a classic you-get-what-you-pay-for tool, but for the occasional tweek to a blade, it may be OK..? (No idea what shipping/taxes/exchange rate will do to you.)

[Andrew Gibson]

You are really close and using a caliper I would not be surprised if you are closer still to in spec than you think. The first thing I would do is grab some steel wool or crocus cloth and clean the spindle and arbor holes on each removing any burr that bay be present. Then see where you stand. If you have a snap gauge to measure the inside bore of the blade/s you will also be able to get a better measurement. As you will be using the same outside measure points of the caliper to measure the surfaces. The inside measure surfaces of a caliper are slightly offset and typically have a small flat which causes them to read slightly smaller than the actual measurement on small bores.

[lowell holmes]

I have to "thread" mine on..I can't get them to just go straight on...

Sounds normal to me. I thread mine on also. I've done it for years. You know the "stack" is properly seated and aligned.

[Vince Rosypal]

Sounds normal to me. I thread mine on also. I've done it for years. You know the "stack" is properly seated and aligned.

Good to know as I was starting to worry about threading mine also

[Jim Andrew]

I had the same problem, but have a machinist friend. He took the dado blade home and took off 1/1000. It will slide on now.

[CPeter James]

Get one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-8-Cutting-Dia-6-Flutes-Straight-Shank-Tool-Steel-Hand-Reamer-155mm-Long-/351855003809?hash=item51ec3148a1:g:KnoAAOSw~AVYuSf 1

[Larry Edgerton]

You are really close and using a caliper I would not be surprised if you are closer still to in spec than you think. The first thing I would do is grab some steel wool or crocus cloth and clean the spindle and arbor holes on each removing any burr that bay be present. Then see where you stand. If you have a snap gauge to measure the inside bore of the blade/s you will also be able to get a better measurement. As you will be using the same outside measure points of the caliper to measure the surfaces. The inside measure surfaces of a caliper are slightly offset and typically have a small flat which causes them to read slightly smaller than the actual measurement on small bores.

Good advise. I think you will end up with junk if you get carried away.

[Robert Parent]

If it were my saw I would remove the saw blade, washers and nut. Find some abrasive strips about an inch wide and polish the arbor just as you would do if turning a part in a metal lathe. Use care, hold the abrasive between your fingers (Warning: Do Not Wrap it around your fingers!) so if it catches while polishing it will pull free and clear. A couple thousandths is real easy to remove and much less chance of messing up than boring, drilling, or whatever to an internal bore. Now all blades should fit going forward.


Robert