Staining Rift Sawn White Oak

[George Bokros]

This is a challenge for sure. It is really difficult to get the stain into all the fine pores. I have tried using a rag and a foam brush, neither gets the stain in all the pores. i am using a mixture of GF dye and GF water based stain.

Maybe this is one of the woods that you should use a grain filler before stain?

Any tips?

Thanks

[Justin Ludwig]

Spray and wipe. Hvlp gun with gun enough air to blow material out. Atomization is not a key component here. Test pieces first then get after it.

[Wayne Lomman]

Use a mixture of pigment and dye. Spray on and wipe off like Justin says. Any old gun will do. Circular rubbing finishing straight to get rid of streaks. Cheers

[Wayne Lomman]

Also don't sand too fine. 150 by hand not machine is plenty fine enough. Cheers

[George Bokros]

I am using a combination of GF dye and dye stain for color. I cannot spray.

[Wayne Lomman]

If you use pigment and dye, spraying doesn't matter. It's just a bit quicker. Whatever stain you use, get it on good and wet then wipe it off. Work accurately to minimise partially staining adjacent components until you are ready to do the whole piece. Cheers

[John TenEyck]

George, you have to clean out the pores really well before staining. Vacuum, then blow it off with compressed air, then vacuum again. If any dust is in the pores the stain can't get in Then slop on the dye/stain any way you want and rub it in before wiping it off. If you don't succeed with the GF mixture, get some SW's BAC Wiping Stain. I have used it on WO and can attest with how well it works. That product will change your opinion about dye/stains with one use. Super easy to use, deep color in one application, and dries in an hour. Of the stain products I have tried, this one is head an shoulders above the rest. That walnut round front corner cabinet I just posted got it's color from BAC Wiping Stain.

John

[Steve Schoene]

I've found it easier to use finishing materials is separate steps creating a schedule rather than trying to mix materials, even if they are nominally compatible.

i prefer to start with dye, but you should understand that the GM product you reference isn't a typical dye, rather it is a stain binder, colored with a added dye. Standard dyes never contain a binder, giving them much more versatility in application. Binders dry locking the dye in place without the ability to make modifications or even the chance of simple removal. (Up until locked in place with a top coat.) I prefer using a powdered dye, mixed with water. It gives more time for application and lets you determine the intensity of color by changing the concentration of the dye mix.

White oak may have pores that have a waxy looking lining that keeps the dye from adhering, leaving a almost white lining. The fix is simple. First apply a light coat of dewaxed shellac if you don't want to have a big effect on color of the surface of the wood between the pores. Then use a pigment only stain that will lodge in the pores. I like the depth given by using pigment slightly darker than the dyed surface. Oil based stain is much better than water based since it give much more working time to spend getting an even spread before wiping off excess. (Go cross grain to a void pulling pigment out of the pores.)

[George Bokros]

Thanks for all the tips.

[Mike Monroe]

There's also this resource: http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/stickley.pdf

[Edwin Santos]

Along the lines of what Steve is recommending, I would go first with the dye stain, then seal with shellac, then glaze. The glaze will lodge in the pores. The glaze will also add a layer of color that will give the finished look more depth and dimension. Then topcoat with your topcoat of choice. The Homestead article is very good and goes into more detail with the same idea.