Cutting Boards

[lowell holmes]

SWMBO has ordered cutting boards be made for friends. I'm happy to do it, however,
she wants me to make them from some mesquite that I have. I'm happy to do it,
but I'm not sure mesquite is save for food service. Does anyone in this group have
knowledge in this. I'm more inclined to use hard maple.

[Yonak Hawkins]

lowell, I'm not able to give advice on using mesquite for cutting boards but, with your beginning your post with , "SWMBO has ordered," and adding, "I'm happy to do it," twice, I'd sure like to see some emoticons attached to those comments.

[Mike Cutler]

Lowell

If you were making them for a living, and selling to the food industry, there are are chapters in the CFR's on cutting boards. Hard maple is the preferred wood, if you get bored enough to research them. Yep, believe it or not, there are government regulations for cutting boards and their use. :eek:
Making a few for friends, that will really never see much actual use compared to a food service business, I personally think you're okay making them out of just about any suitable hard wood, covered with a food approved coating. The exception being a board for specific use as a bakery/bread board.
I wouldn't hesitate to make them.

PS
Don't they grill steaks and such with mesquite wood, or is that a different type of mesquite?

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Lowell

If you were making them for a living, and selling to the food industry, there are are chapters in the CFR's on cutting boards. Hard maple is the preferred wood, if you get bored enough to research them. Yep, believe it or not, there are government regulations for cutting boards and their use.



They regulate cutting boards???? The tiny bit of faith in humanity that I was holding on to has been lost.

Mesquite is fine for cutting boards. The issue with mesquite is if you get a splinter in you and don't get it out, but the same goes for zebra wood and many other woods used in cutting boards. I have read that screw bean mesquite makes a bean that you can eat.

When I make cutting boards, I glue them with epoxy. Clamping is a pain because it's so slippery, but I have no fear of rinsing them in the sink. Just my $.02 worth of advise. Please note- LOTS of people make cutting boards using waterproof wood glue like Titebond III. I just prefer to use what I glue boats together with so I know it will be fine getting wet over and over.

[Sam Puhalovich]

Lowell; I wouldn't hesitate to make a mesquite cutting board ... if I had the 'planking'.
The typical, twisted-trunk, mesquite in the Austin area would be a rare find for planks, but, would be great for a end-grain version.
I've been choked for several years with odd length cut-offs of white oak and maple ... and after reading a 'post' a few months-ago decided to rid myself of the clutter by putting the material into end-grain cutting boards. Most of the posts that I've read usually advise to SOAK the board in mineral oil as the preferred coating. I've built a lot of cutting boards where I just kept brushing-on coat-after-coat till the boards seemed to be not absorbing much. The first 2 turkey-sized ... about 18" x 28" ... boards I made this time were from the white oak that had been packed-around since 1998. I set-up a soaking station using some 2x lumber and plastic and proceeded to soak ... turning the board over daily ... till the top-side showed that it wouldn't take any more. It took about 10 days to fill-up a 1 5/8" thick board. I was majorly surprised at how pretty and how smooth the boards looked and felt thoroughly soaked thru with the mineral oil. Then I went to work on using up the myriad of maple cut-offs that I had ... I'll have the 3rd one ready for soaking by around noon today ... and I've been soaking them by thoroughly submerging them ... a much more efficient way-to-go. The only supply for mineral oil that I could find was the local HEB food store that sold 16 oz bottles at $2-a-pop ... and it takes a lot of oil to submerge a 18 x 28 x 1 5/8 board. I think that I have enough maple to do at least 2 more ... and I went searching for a more convenient gallon sized supply ... Bulk Apothecary came-up as the most promising looking supplier for $cost and quantity ... http://www.bulkapothecary.com/raw-ingredients/bulk-natural-oils/mineral-oil/ ... I'll know how much more I'll need to buy when I pull-out the currently soaking pair. When the 'soaking' is thru ... the remainder ... using a coffee filter ... gets put into a clean gallon container for future use.

[Bill Adamsen]

The exception being a board for specific use as a bakery/bread board.

Mike ... could you elaborate on that exception? And I ask because I bake quite a bit and have made "bakery boards" for myself and have had others ask me to make them for their use ... which I have not done yet. They are very different from regular cutting boards in that they tend to be quite large and need to be very flat and can have edges to wedge against a countertop. I don't put any finish on mine because rolling resistance is an important attribute.

[Phil Mueller]

I coat them with mineral oil as well. I don't have a soaking station, but continue to apply until it leaks out the bottom and then flip and repeat. One think to note is that the mineral oil in the local drug store is usually a thick version. I prefer to get the thinner stuff from online.

You may also note that after soaking, it will bleed for a time. I usually give it a week or so before passing it along.

[Sean Troy]

SWMBO has ordered cutting boards be made for friends. I'm happy to do it, however,
she wants me to make them from some mesquite that I have. I'm happy to do it,
but I'm not sure mesquite is save for food service. Does anyone in this group have
knowledge in this. I'm more inclined to use hard maple.

I used it for years when I lived in Arizona and never heard of any ill effects. I would wipe the joints with Acetone before gluing though.

[Mike Cutler]

I don't put any finish on mine because rolling resistance is an important attribute.

Bill

That's the difference. Bread and bakery boards aren't required to have a finish. The natural properties of wood, pores in the grain, will trap the flour that bread boards are coated with prior to kneading dough, cutting cookies, pie crusts, etc. Bakers need this layer of flour to stay where it is and not slide off. I'm not a baker, so I'll take their word for it
I made a pair of "bread boards", 5' long, and 30' wide , and 2" thick, about 15 years ago. That bakery is still in business, and still using those boards.
The boards were made from maple slabs. She did not want a laminated bread board. They looked like "work bench tops" to her.

I stumbled on this design about 10 years ago in a wood working magazine. I forget which one. The design came from a board they dated back to the middle ages.
They're super simple to make and they're stout. I've made a few of them from some bubinga slabs I sourced a long time ago. Very heavy, very stable.
The one in this post has been next to the sink since I made it. It gets everything on it, and is still going strong. I have another that is sized to cover the burners on our stove. It's amazing how versatile an extra 18"x30" horizontal surface in the kitchen is. ;)

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?61157-A-Simple-Cutting-Board&highlight=

PS
Believe it or not; the one design they do not like in the reg's, that concern cutting boards, is an end grain cutting board. :eek:

[Bill Adamsen]

Thanks Mike! Here is one that I made ... remarkably similar (virtually identical) to the one you posted. That one I made from wood that I had that probably wasn't ideally selected for a breadboard. What I have read is that one chooses a hard but decay prone wood (ie. maple) since those woods tend to have the fewest complex chemical "extractives" that would deter growth of microbes but might also impart flavor.

[Adam Merritt]

The only supply for mineral oil that I could find was the local HEB food store that sold 16 oz bottles at $2-a-pop ... and it takes a lot of oil to submerge a 18 x 28 x 1 5/8 board. I think that I have enough maple to do at least 2 more ... and I went searching for a more convenient gallon sized supply

If you have any local (farm) feed stores around, check with them. I have one 2 miles away that sells a gallon for $16, which is way better than paying for shipping. I used a large roasting pan (bent to make it wide enough) for one last night. I heat the mineral oil to about 145 to thin it down and pour it on to saturate it, giving at least 3 very thick coats per side, often more. I like using a pan like this to easily pour into a pan, reheat, and reapply before eventually re-bottling it after passing through an oil-fryer filter. Once it is saturated well, I use Howard Butcher Block conditioner (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JIWRAB8/) for the final coat. Here is a shot from last night on a project for my niece's wedding.

[Mike Cutler]

Adam

That's a really nice board!!
Very cool design.:cool:

[Chris Padilla]

One of my YouTube regular stops is a guy in Russia who makes end-grain cutting boards: mtmwood

Look him up.

[Bill Adamsen]

One of my YouTube regular stops is a guy in Russia who makes end-grain cutting boards: mtmwood

Haven't watched lately but remember being mesmerized by the productivity. Any idea what he is dipping those finished boards into?

[Adam Merritt]

That's a really nice board!!
Very cool design.Thanks, but I can't take credit for the design. This is from MTMWood :)


One of my YouTube regular stops is a guy in Russia who makes end-grain cutting boards: mtmwoodI'm with you here. I love watching his videos. He sells both complete cutting boards and the plans. I could have built it from his youtube video, but he only asks $12 US for an amazingly detailed PDF build guide and sketchup file. It was a no-brainer to pay him for even the idea.


Any idea what he is dipping those finished boards into?
It is a mineral oil bath for 10-15 seconds, then 6 hour drying. Repeat 10-15 second dip, 6 hour dry, and then the beeswax/mineral oil finish.

[lowell holmes]

After very little discussion, I am going along with SWMBO and making the cutting boards.

They will be made out of mesquite Wood. I will make the finish in accordance with this Link.

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip49.html

Any comments? I would appreciate it.

[Yonak Hawkins]

Go for it. Be sure to report back after awhile with results.

[Mark Carlson]

I use Howards butcher block conditioner which is mineral oil and wax.

[lowell holmes]

I use Howards butcher block conditioner which is mineral oil and wax.

Thanks Mark. That is what I was looking for.

[Edwin Santos]

They regulate cutting boards???? The tiny bit of faith in humanity that I was holding on to has been lost.



Not only do they regulate them, in some places they are not allowed at all in a commercial setting. We once did a project in Las Vegas where they have (had?) a county specific ordinance that prohibited wood surfaces in commercial kitchens. We had to junk a 72" Boos block topped SS worktable in favor of one that was totally stainless and the staff were expected to use plastic composite cutting boards. I also remember we had to remove all the garbage disposal units because there was a moratorium on those too, not sure why.

[Andy Giddings]

You can make a lot of butcher block conditioner by just melting some beeswax in mineral oil - works fine. Also straight mineral oil works fine but doesn't give you the sheen of the conditioner

[andrew whicker]

You can make a lot of butcher block conditioner by just melting some beeswax in mineral oil - works fine. Also straight mineral oil works fine but doesn't give you the sheen of the conditioner

Do you have a rough ratio you use? I'm interested...


Also, as a general question: How long does the butcher block last before the customer has to re-apply some conditioner on their own?

EDIT:

I found some sources for making your own conditioner:

http://www.onegoodthingbyjillee.com/2015/04/how-to-clean-and-care-for-your-butcher-block.html
https://andreasrecipes.com/beeswax-paste-for-cutting-boards-and-butcher-blocks/

[glenn bradley]

Do you have a rough ratio you use? I'm interested...

I use just mineral oil.

Also, as a general question: How long does the butcher block last before the customer has to re-apply some conditioner on their own?

Sister in Law entertains and cooks like a fiend. Uses her bord for nearly every dinner-type meal. She wipes her's with mineral spirits a few times a year and the board is years old.

EDIT:

I found some sources for making your own conditioner:

http://www.onegoodthingbyjillee.com/2015/04/how-to-clean-and-care-for-your-butcher-block.html
https://andreasrecipes.com/beeswax-paste-for-cutting-boards-and-butcher-blocks/

Replies above in blue.

[Andy Giddings]

Do you have a rough ratio you use? I'm interested...


Also, as a general question: How long does the butcher block last before the customer has to re-apply some conditioner on their own?

EDIT:

I found some sources for making your own conditioner:

http://www.onegoodthingbyjillee.com/2015/04/how-to-clean-and-care-for-your-butcher-block.html
https://andreasrecipes.com/beeswax-paste-for-cutting-boards-and-butcher-blocks/
I use 4 Oil to 1 Wax, Andrew. Generally, once the block is loaded up ready for use, re-apply once per week for the first month (the board will start to fade in color so the owner will know when to re-apply) and then monthly or when the board starts to fade

[Sean Hagerty]

I was amazed to find the CFR contained a passage about cutting boards.

21 CFR part 1 contains:

4-101.17 Wood, Use Limitation.

(A) Except as specified in ¶¶ (B), (C), and (D) of this section, wood and wood wicker may not be used as a food-contact surface.
(B) Hard maple or an equivalently hard, close-grained wood may be used for:

(1) Cutting boards; cutting blocks; bakers' tables; and utensils such as rolling pins, doughnut dowels, salad bowls, and chopsticks; and
(2) Wooden paddles used in confectionery operations for pressure scraping kettles when manually preparing confections at a temperature of 110°C (230°F) or above.

[lowell holmes]

I was amazed to find the CFR contained a passage about cutting boards.

21 CFR part 1 contains:

4-101.17 Wood, Use Limitation.



(A) Except as specified in ¶¶ (B), (C), and (D) of this section, wood and wood wicker may not be used as a food-contact surface.
(B) Hard maple or an equivalently hard, close-grained wood may be used for:

(1) Cutting boards; cutting blocks; bakers' tables; and utensils such as rolling pins, doughnut dowels, salad bowls, and chopsticks; and
(2) Wooden paddles used in confectionery operations for pressure scraping kettles when manually preparing confections at a temperature of 110°C (230°F) or above.



Sean,
My sentiments are to use maple. SWMBO has spoken and said mesquite. I will probably make two boards, one of each species and coat them with the cutting board finish. That way, I can't be wrong.:)

[lowell holmes]

I have decided to make two boards, one using mesquite and one using maple. That way she can use the one she likes.

I don't think the lady will cut on the board. I will advise here to use the maple board if she is going to cut.

[lowell holmes]

I coated the board with Howards butcher block conditioner. The finish is a bit tacky, any suggestions?

[Mark Carlson]

Give it a day or two to dry.


I coated the board with Howards butcher block conditioner. The finish is a bit tacky, any suggestions?

[lowell holmes]

Thanks for responding. :)

[Sean Hagerty]

I use howards a lot, usually with several soaks in mineral oil first (Its cheaper!!) Let the Howards soak in over night then polish it off, I try to use several coats of howards, it seems like it soaks in the more coats I put on.

[lowell holmes]

I'm happy to say the cutting board is dry and ready to go. I appreciate the tip about Howards.

[lowell holmes]

I'm happy to say the cutting board is dry and ready to go. I appreciate the tip about Howards.

Here is the board. It is made of Mesquite and treated with Howards butcher block treatment.

359928

[David Eisenhauer]

As originally a native South Texan before migrating to the hills, I appreciate the Mesquite. Nice result on a simple, useful gizmo. Good on you Lowell.

[andrew whicker]

I am new to soaking my maple end grain boards with mineral oil. I gave it a try and...

1) It really darkened it up. The first one I did, I just finished it with a butcher block conditioner and it came out really light colored. I like it a lot.
2) When do you apply the beeswax + mineral oil after the soak? I soaked my board for maybe 30 seconds (?) with 140 F ish oil. That was like 4 days ago and I'm still seeing oil on the surface (capillary effect?). Did I screw up or is the Standard Operating Procedure to wait a month? If so, I'm not too excited about this method. Maybe the soak was for long grain cutting boards? Did I just effectively screw up my entire cutting board? I can't see how this thing is every going to 'dry out' enough to not feel moist to the touch.

Cheers and thanks,

Previous (no soaking / finished in a few coats of butcher block conditioner):
360765

Current (Soaked in mineral oil at 140 F. 4 or 5 days afterward. Photo taken after 10 to 15 minutes in sun. Note how wet it is!):
360766

360767

[Andy Giddings]

Andrew, no need to soak them and no need to heat the oil - I just pour some on, let it adsorb, rub it in and repeat a few times until it doesn't adsorb. Leave overnight and then I use the hot beeswax/oil mix rubbed in and all finished. I think MTMWood on YouTube has several examples of how to finish a board if you need more info. The board isn't screwed up, will just take longer to dry. Not sure I would leave it in the sun. I just cover mine with paper towels and leave it inside at room temp. The darkness is temporary and will lighten over time indicating time for more oil