Grizzly G 0507 20” bandsaw

[Boyd Gathwright]

Hello Everyone,
It’s been sometime since I posted last, although, I have stopped in every once in a while to read some of the posts. I had an interesting experience with my Grizzly G 0507 20” bandsaw almost two weeks ago. Flipped the switch and the TIRE broke. I have never broken a blade much less thrown a tire on this saw. Upon close inspection the TIRE did not actually; brake, shrewd, tear, come loose or ride off the wheel but was crystallized within the rubber – no adherence within the rubber ( 3/16” thick x 1” 3/16” wide with a center bead on the bottom of the tire that tracks in the grove on the steel wheel ). Obviously this defect has been there since I bought the saw and just waited for the right position on the big wheel for me to throw the switch, well it finally happened and this is a saw I do not use often but is available when I need it. I called Grizzly and explained what had happened and they told me up front its out of warranty and I explained this was NOT a normal wear and tear issue but a crystallized defect from day one, so they asked me for pics and I sent them nine. Very next day they called me, they still were NOT going to cover it. I’ll include as many pics as I can on this site, its been a while.



This reminds me of a lawn mower manufacture a few years back, when they had trouble with their zero-turn transmissions ( wheel motors ). I was, at that time and still am a member of that site and there were quit a few mowers with bad transmissions ( wheel motors ), it was so bad there was talk of a CLASS ACTION SUIT against this particular manufacture. So what the manufacture did, after a period of time they increased the warranty time from TWO to FIVE years. In doing so, they knew that most of their problems started after 500 hours or there about ( beyond the five year period) and most people would have their mowers most likely longer than that. Of course by extending the warranty, most people thought they had fixed the problem. And there are still a number of these mowers around today – ticking time bombs with a big bill ahead of them. This is what you call smart business practice.

[Tom Trees]

Sorry about your tire Boyd.
Are you going to continue this battle or spring for a new tire ?
I am researching about glues for my 24" bandsaw at the moment.
The best stuff seems like its the 3m 1300 rubber and gasket adhesive according to knowledgeable folks...Van Huskey amongst others.

I dont know if Grizzly has spares... or if Carter has tires with a rib underneath.
I do know of a UK main supplier which has tires for a SP500 Centauro bandsaw ..this has a rib on the underside of the tire.
I am currently waiting on some insight on the condition of the tire I received, as their is some flaws underneath the tire where it was molded.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?253829-Centauro-600-replacment-tire-with-flaws-does-it-look-OK-to-you

I have been trying to figure out how much glue is needed for one tire ...and what stuff is most suitable to fill the voids.

The only information on gluing a large bandsaw tire, is a post from Jack Forsberg using the 3m stuff he regards highly also...
Looking at it now, its actually a different number of 3M stuff
359129
He mentions this on a thread from another forum titled...
Spindle sander drums Roll your own.
Jack mentioned he had this tube left over from his Bursgreen BZB Band saw rebuild.
I have been trying to figure if it was both tires he glued on with this, and what size of saw it was, with no luck however.
Will be watching this thread with much interest.
Can take measurements of the tire if you like.
Good luck
Tom

[Mike Kees]

I would just buy new tires and move on to more productive things like woodworking. Tires are wear items and as such it will be real hard to prove that you did not nick or gouge,etc.

[Chris Hachet]

Agreed...I like buying OWWM, which comes with much higher repair risks...

[Tom Trees]

You might have better luck, if you sent a pic like the second last one... but from the other side as to show no obvious signs of a snagging blade.
I might even go as far as posting a few piccys of the entire length of the tire, maybe penciling in sections of it.
What's your opinion of the condition other tire ?

Here is some more photos of the tire I got recently in the UK ...Its for a 24" Centauro saw, So I can't say for sure that a 20" saw would have the same measurements....Maybe Erik Loza would be able to tell you this, I haven't seen him here in a while though.
Obviously there is going to be variants measuring rubber with a calipers, these numbers is what I came up with ....
Of all the measurements I took, the height of the rib had the most variants.
Tom
359273359274

[Boyd Gathwright]

Hello Tom,


Having a running gun battle with the manufactures (Grizzly) days are over. It was my intent to make other woodworkers aware of not only what I have experienced but to have an understanding of how such a condition could happen. I have never in my life time had this condition ever and thought that perhaps someone else may have experienced something similar. My speculation is something had to be; too hot or too cold or perhaps the wrong batch mixture or not being mixed properly before it was poured into the mold causing this crystallization to occur – I don’t know how they go about making these tires.
I am not to excited about replacing this tire with another RUBBER tire and am seriously considering a urethane tire. I have a set on an old cast iron Montgomery Wards 12” bandsaw and works very well without any glue but a real struggle getting them on the wheels (see pics). As far as glues go, If you want, you could call HINKEL (locktite products) and talk to their Tech dept. they will tell you most likely what glue for your application is available from them. Matter of fact they might even send you a sample to try - just a suggestion.


Boyd

[Tom Trees]

The 3M stuff is reputed to be the preferred stuff by some very knowledgeable folks on here ...
I just am a bit skint at the moment, and some of those dudes must be on holidays and banned from the computer by the missus, methinks :)
I don't know if the urethane tires have the rib on them, I seem to recall that some folks wished the opted for rubber afterwards.
Tom

[John TenEyck]

Looks like it broke where the two ends were glued or molded together. I'd buy a new rubber tire from Grizzly.

John

[keith micinski]

I'm confused as to why grizzly should be extending the warranty on any part of their saw past the listed date at time of purchase for any reason. Even if it could be proven that the tire was defective from day one, which it doesn't seem to be possible to do, the entire point of a warranty period is to set a limit to the amount of time your machines are supposed to run trouble free. It sounds like your machine did just that and then some. Not really sure where the complaint is.

[Jim Wheeler]

Looks like it broke where the two ends were glued or molded together. I'd buy a new rubber tire from Grizzly.

John

Yes, that's what came to my mind as well - that the tire broke where it was glued together, since one end appears to be at a perfect ninety degree angle to the length. However, I'm not so sure I'd buy a new one before I tried gluing it back together. No need to worry about the inch or so of lost length either, as rubber or neoprene bandsaw tires are usually made 10 to 20 percent shorter than the circumference of the wheel they go on. If it's rubber or neoprene, it can be butt glued with cyanoacrylate adhesive - Super Glue or "Crazy Glue" or some similar brand. I prefer Quicktite by Loctite Corp. myself.

The problem with trying to glue rubber or neoprene is that most adhesives for the job are designed to stick it to something other than itself. Such joints don't usually have to stretch. However, if you want to glue rubber to itself - as in the case of a bandsaw tire, you want an adhesive that will allow the glued surfaces to stretch along with the rest of the material without breaking - which is why you want to use a butt joint instead of a lap or scarf joint in this case. In industry it is done by vulcanizing, but that is beyond the capabilities of most of us. The other way is to use an adhesive that is strong enough that a minimal amount of surface area is needed in the joint for sufficient strength. Cyanoacrylate adhesive fills the bill nicely and is also sometimes used in industry.

I once made up tires for an antique 36 inch bandsaw from neoprene packing and gasket material I purchased in a 2 inch width for the job. They are still holding together more than 20 years later. I cut a butt joint on the ends with a sharp knife and then trued the glue surfaces with a stationary disk sander using fine grit paper. I put several drops of adhesive on one end and quickly spread it with the plastic nozzle of the glue container (anything else would probably have stuck immediately.) Then I carefully pressed the two ends together. You get only one chance to get them in the right position, of course, else you have to start all over.

After a few hours you'll be hard pressed to pull the joint apart with your hands; after two days or more of curing you won't be able to pull it apart with your bare hands at all - if you did a good job. One word of caution - don't let the joint come into contact with any solvent that cuts lacquer - such as acetone, xylene, toluene, methyl-ethyl ketone or the like - because such substances will dissolve the cyanoacrylate adhesive; they might also eat the tire itself. Alcohol, mineral spirits or naptha don't seem to hurt anything.

In any event you have little to lose by trying to repair the tire.

For what it's worth I use Household Goop to glue tires to bandsaw wheels. Pure silicone caulk (without the latex in it) might work too.

Jim

[Boyd Gathwright]

Thank you Jim. I think I'll try this. How did you hold the tire to the wheel until it cured?

Boyd

[Tom Trees]

I presume the best thing would be to get some bicycle tube and cut it into strips ?
You must keep us updated on the outcome on this Boyd.
Thinking of cutting into my lower tire as we speak, as I'm at the stage where I need to be using my machine.
I just wish I could get more clarification whether the errors in my tire will be OK and whether I have enough glue for the job.
Tom

[Boyd Gathwright]

Hello Jim,


Attempted to use your fix and here are the results ( see pics). Got the tire tight on the wheel and inserted the two broken pieces and to my surprise there was still a considerable gap. At first I thought there had been another piece that I missed because the gap was so large (about an inch) but not so. Both sides of the pieces matched up with the tire perfectly on both sides. Which leads me to to think that this tire was put on SO TIGHT that its weakest link finally gave way at the right position on the wheel when I threw the switch. I look forward to any further suggestions.

Boyd

[Ronald Blue]

I hope you get the saw back up and running soon. If you do some research you will learn that bandsaw tires are very tight when new. In fact people use hot water and other tricks to get them on. As for Grizzly owing you a new tire years after you purchased it is quite a stretch. I don't know how long you have had the saw but it's no longer a current model so I am guessing for at least 5 years. As others have said they are a wear item. Rubber deteriorates even without being used. Look into automobile tires going bad on the rack. It sucks but that's why there are after market bandsaw tire suppliers. Good luck.

[Jim Wheeler]

Hello, Boyd,

I'm sorry, but I believe you may have misunderstood me. The tire should be glued back together and allowed to cure before re-installation onto the wheel. The fact that the tire is a bit shorter than the circumference of the wheel rim should not be a problem, for as I wrote before, rubber bandsaw tires are intended to be a bit shorter - as much as 10 to 20 percent.

I can only presume your tire is rubber or neoprene rather than urethane - it certainly looks like rubber. If you can stretch the material to some degree with your hands, as if it were a giant rubber band, then it is most likely rubber. If it won't stretch much at all, then it is likely a urethane, a vinyl, or some other kind of plastic. I don't know if the cyanoacrylate would adhere to those.

If you decide to try again, be sure to let the joint cure for a day or two before attempting to stretch it on to the wheel.

Good luck.

Jim

[John TenEyck]

An excellent post, Jim. Your solution makes perfect sense. Rather than buying individual O-rings you can buy O-ring stock, cut it to the length needed, and glue it together using SuperGlue, just as you described. They sell kits to do this, and we made them many times where I used to work. If it works for O-rings it should work for BS tires.

John

[Boyd Gathwright]

Hello Jim,


Its been approximately ten hours now since I completed the glue-up (see pics).Just took the tire outside from the shop to allow the SUN to help cure it. To my surprise it appears to be holding quite well. I will as you have suggested, allow it to cure until Wednesday late or midday Thursday before attempting to mount the tire on the steel wheel or put any strain or pressure on it until then.
My next concern is how to go about mounting it on the steel wheel. This rubber tire is thick and heavy and does NOT seem to have much “give” to it. The approaches that come to mind right now are; Soapy water solution on the steel wheel before stretching and putting the tire on, Use Renaissance wax polish approximately a quarter of an inch around the steel wheel edge before installing, Submerse the tire in approximately 120 to 130 degree temperature water and tap around the steel wheel with a soft rubber hammer, Bake the tire in the SUN until it is hot enough to just about able to handle it before installing, And or a combination of any of these. What would your approach be to this?


Boyd

[Tom Trees]

Presuming you have seen this video ...and the other one this guy has also..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbwJD5dh2kY
The technique is all about stretching the tire in equal parts.
Interested to see what folks recommend i.e ..start just after the join and wrap the belt around the first few inches so the last
part to go on the wheel is the joint ???
Or somewhere in the middle, and doing another wrap job so you can stretch the rest of the tire onto the rim.
I would use glue to adhere the tire so if it does break it could be patched with some kind of rubber.
The technique explained to me was ....once the tire is on get a small diameter cylindrical pipe or whatever and roll the pipe under the tire ...
I don't know, but it would seem to be a good idea if you do a full circumference to even out the stretching, before going around again and applying the glue.
I have to say, I will be surprised if the joint withstands the stretch the first time.
Van gave me some tips on this thread ...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?247302-Italian-24-quot-bandsaw-re-vamp-lower-wheel-adjustment-or-tire-dress-both.
I'm still trying everything ...lots of adjustments, to get my saw sorted as I have a feeling that a new tire wont fix my problem
I have nothing to loose as I have a tire for the bottom
Best of luck Boyd
Tom

[Jim Wheeler]

An excellent post, Jim. Your solution makes perfect sense. Rather than buying individual O-rings you can buy O-ring stock, cut it to the length needed, and glue it together using SuperGlue, just as you described. They sell kits to do this, and we made them many times where I used to work. If it works for O-rings it should work for BS tires.

John

Hi, John<

I'm curious what the O-rings were for? A former neighbor of mine once worked for a company that made huge valves for industrial plumbing, pipelines etc. He gave me one of the rubber packing rings or gaskets that they would make up for them using cyanoacrylate; looked a bit like a bandsaw tire. I could see the joint in it, but could not pull it apart with my hands no matter how hard I pulled.

Jim

[Jim Wheeler]

Hello, Boyd:

Firstly, I would not leave the tire exposed to the hot sun; the sun's rays are very deleterious to most rubber and plastic products. Besides - cyanoacrylate cures by exposure to moisture in the atmosphere. I think if the tire needs to be warmed prior to installation, that a hot water soak would be the safest way - maybe about the temperature of bath water.

Secondly, do not apply any kind of wax. If it helps slide the rubber tire on to the wheel, it will also make it easy for the tire to come off in use. Also, if you should find later that you need to glue the tire to the wheel rim, any wax residue will certainly keep an adhesive from sticking. Soapy water might work, if you need something to help slide the rubber on to the wheel, but a better alternative would be Johnson's Baby Powder or some other fine talcum. It keeps rubber from "grabbing" - both to itself and to other very smooth surfaces. But again - I would suggest that you don't use anything at all.

Thirdly, I am concerned that you did not first remove the damaged portion of tire and then make a new joint. If there was indeed some crystallization or other decomposition going on with the rubber at that spot, it may break again. Well if it does, just cut it away and try again.

As for techniques of actually stretching the tire back on to the wheel: the video that Tom linked to above is as good as any....except your wheels are not spoked. I stretched tires on to the wheels of my 18 inch saw without too much problem, but I first removed the wheels from the machine, which made things a bit easier. You may find you need another pair of hands, but probably not with a wheel that small. It is distinctly easier than removing a bicycle tire was when I was a kid; needed two screwdrivers to pry with for that. The advice to roll a small diameter piece of pipe or hardwood dowel around the circumference between the tire and the rim after it is on is good - do it several times, even if you don't glue the tire in place.

Be sure and let us know what happens.

Regards,
Jim

[Boyd Gathwright]

Hello Jim,


After reading your last post, I immediately went down to the shop to perform a very light pull-test on the bandsaw tire. With a very light tug the butt joint came apart. So, I used the small nine inch bandsaw to true up both ends of the butt joints and in the process the other two pieces I had previously glued up SNAPPED off ( that much crystallization surprised me ). So now we have all NEW rubber with squared up fresh new butt ends being cured (see pics). The fresh rubber went together rather well I thought, i’ ll let it sit until Thursday and give it another pull-test.


Note: This tire is getting shorter and shorter, its going to take a LOT of muscle and stretching to get this bad boy back on the steel wheel.

I’ll keep you posted.
.
Thanks again

Boyd

[John Lanciani]

I hate to be that guy but I will; if the rubber is deteriorated enough to break like it did originally the whole tire is almost certainly bad. I predict that you're just going to be chasing your tail on this one until you accept that. Bandsaw tires are a wear item, and not particularly expensive into the grand scheme. Time to bite the bullet and replace them both and move on.

[Tom Trees]

Heresy I say :)
The other tire sounds like it's OK, They look to be nice and fat,
plus Boyd has the perfectly matching stock to patch it up with, if it doesn't work out.
Tom

[John Lanciani]

Heresy I say :)
The other tire sounds like it's OK, They look to be nice and fat,
plus Boyd has the perfectly matching stock to patch it up with, if it doesn't work out.
Tom

When a $25 tire; http://store.woodworkerstoolworks.com/20-tire/ breaks and wipes out a $250 carbide blade it won't seem like heresy. Stuff wears out, sometimes its best to just replace it and move on.

[Tom Trees]

When a $25 tire; http://store.woodworkerstoolworks.com/20-tire/ breaks and wipes out a $250 carbide blade it won't seem like heresy. Stuff wears out, sometimes its best to just replace it and move on.


Fair enough John
If you've got the funds for a woodmaster CT or other similarly expensive blade, you can spring for new tires
I am just going on a shoelace...
good point though
Tom

[Jim Wheeler]

I hate to be that guy but I will; if the rubber is deteriorated enough to break like it did originally the whole tire is almost certainly bad. I predict that you're just going to be chasing your tail on this one until you accept that. Bandsaw tires are a wear item, and not particularly expensive into the grand scheme. Time to bite the bullet and replace them both and move on.


Uh yeah. but somehow I just don't think I believe that one.

Yes, the whole tire could very well be bad, but since it appeared to have broken right at the joint, several of us were betting on the possibility that something used to make the joint had caused the failure and that the rest of it might still be good.

But you're probably right - best just to accept that the tire is an inexpensive wear item - even at $25 or more each - and replace it (even though the tires on my two saws are over 30 years old.) And, of course, there is always the possibility that it could fail again at any time after a successful repair and ruin an expensive carbide-tipped blade - just as it could have done with the original failure (but did not) and could do with a replacement. Come to think of it, something else on the saw could break at any time and ruin an expensive blade, so instead it would probably be best to just accept that imported Asian made machinery is inexpensive consumable Chinese junk, set it out at the curb, buy another saw, and "move on."

Jim

[Jim Wheeler]

When a $25 tire; http://store.woodworkerstoolworks.com/20-tire/ breaks and wipes out a $250 carbide blade it won't seem like heresy. Stuff wears out, sometimes its best to just replace it and move on.


You may or may not have noticed that Boyd's saw tires have a raised center ridge and are made to fit a grooved rim - similar to a Delta "Jiffy" tire. Replacements for such tires at the source you linked are more on the order of $85 each - not $25.

Sometimes it's best to try what one can do before moving on.

Jim

[John Lanciani]

Uh yeah. but somehow I just don't think I believe that one.

Yes, the whole tire could very well be bad, but since it appeared to have broken right at the joint, several of us were betting on the possibility that something used to make the joint had caused the failure and that the rest of it might still be good.

But you're probably right - best just to accept that the tire is an inexpensive wear item - even at $25 or more each - and replace it (even though the tires on my two saws are over 30 years old.) And, of course, there is always the possibility that it could fail again at any time after a successful repair and ruin an expensive carbide-tipped blade - just as it could have done with the original failure (but did not) and could do with a replacement. Come to think of it, something else on the saw could break at any time and ruin an expensive blade, so instead it would probably be best to just accept that imported Asian made machinery is inexpensive consumable Chinese junk, set it out at the curb, buy another saw, and "move on."

Jim

Did you not notice the two other pieces that broke off about an inch from the seam? More than just joint failure there. I did notice the rib, but there is no reason that a flat tire couldn't be glued in place if cost is a concern.

[Tom Trees]

I dare reply to this thread again as I don't want to put a curse on myself ;) but for the greater good of creeker's everywhere, I shall ask...
I was worrying about the issues I possibly faced about epoxying the tire I have, with the flaws.,
But the same question can relate to this query.
Will there be any hardening of the glue on the joint ?
I was thinking if I run into trouble, I might just use regular household glue and find some suitable rubber and try patching these flaws instead of filling them with epoxy.
Tom

[Jim Wheeler]

Did you not notice the two other pieces that broke off about an inch from the seam? More than just joint failure there. I did notice the rib, but there is no reason that a flat tire couldn't be glued in place if cost is a concern.

Yes, I did notice them - which is why I suggested he cut a new joint and remove the damaged portion, even though it would make the tire a bit shorter. And yes, there is something more than simple joint failure there: as I wrote before, we were betting that some substance used to make the joint had crystallized that portion of the tire. Now it could very well be that all the rubber in the tire has gone bad from some cause or another; that will be quite evident if the tire will no longer stretch enough to go back on the wheel. Being one inch shorter than it was should make no difference if it is actual rubber or neoprene.

Sure, one could glue an inexpensive flat tire on to the wheel, but the groove in the rim would have to be filled first for good performance. One could use all sorts of things for a tire: leather belting, cork, inner tube, electricians' old fashioned rubber insulating tape, masking tape, duct tape, a length of split rubber hose. Some have even used built-up layers of silicone caulk. All have been tried at one time or another by someone and with varying degrees of success.

Jim

[Boyd Gathwright]

Hello Jim,

The BIG day is tomorrow, I talked one of my neighbors into giving me a hand in attempting to mount the tire on the steel wheel. We'll find out just how good the rubber is and or how strong the glue is or how good my workmanship is? Its a shame you don't live closer by. I think I would enjoy working with you.

Boyd

[Jim Wheeler]

Hello Jim,

The BIG day is tomorrow, I talked one of my neighbors into giving me a hand in attempting to mount the tire on the steel wheel. We'll find out just how good the rubber is and or how strong the glue is or how good my workmanship is? Its a shame you don't live closer by. I think I would enjoy working with you.

Boyd


Well thank-you very much, Boyd. I live in Texas, just to the northwest of Houston - where are you? I do hope the experiment works out well for you.

Jim

[John Lanciani]

So was it a success?

[Boyd Gathwright]

Hello John,

I can't talk right now but I'll get back later this evening or as soon I can with pic. :)

Boyd

[Boyd Gathwright]

Hello Jim and John,


When it rains it pours, everything happens at once. I’ll start at the beginning, my neighbor came over Friday at noon and I went through all that we have experienced here and shared about this TIRE, and he had a pretty good idea of what we had to do, then we went to the shop. While I was digging out a small car tire and rim I have which we were going to deflate the tire and put the bandsaw TIRE on it and pressurize hopefully to expand the bandsaw TIRE up to approximately 21 to 22inches with soap and water as a lubricant. But before we got started,while I was busy getting things together he was inspecting the TIRE and found another serious unknown crack, see pics. Realizing we were not going to be able to attempt mounting the TIRE on the steel wheel today we decided to give the butt joint a pull-test, it took some pressure but came apart easily without to much trouble after curing for a couple of days, see the pics. And I thought we had a real good joint too, vulcanizing is probably the better way. So there you have it, to me, even though the rubber looks good apparently it just looks that way.


Now that we have given it our best efforts I’ll have to see what is available for this saw and then make a decision as to which direction to go, We gave it our best.


Jim, to answer your question in your POST (last) state of West Virginia. If you look to the right side of your POST on the screen toward the top there is addition information there; JOIN DATE, Number of POSTS etc.


Part of my tardiness here has been because we have been receiving so much rain lately and I have a large project going on and things needed to be shifted around and moved so I could do my work on the inside. My biggest enemy is that clock on the wall, it has a habit of just running away with everything.


Boyd

[Jim Wheeler]

Hello, Boyd,

Well I'm sorry the repair attempt didn't work out for you. My guess is that the whole tire has deteriorated, since it started to fail in another spot. If it is actually ordinary rubber, it should stretch appreciably - like an inner tube - without breaking. I enlarged a couple of your photos and I can just make out where the cyanoacrylate has actually pulled small pieces out of the joint surfaces, so I'm thinking the rubber has become crumbly for one reason or another.

I suppose your best bet now would be to just replace it - either with an OEM part or some sort of substitute like urethane. If you use something other than an OEM tire, you probably will have to glue it to the wheel. That raised ridge on the inside of the tire fits into a groove in the wheel rim and helps keep it from sliding off. Without it you'll have to glue a tire to keep it in place.

Jim

[Boyd Gathwright]

UPDATE:


It took a while,but, I found a reasonable source for my 20” bandsaw tire. I purchased a set of two from PEACHTREE WOODWORKING SUPPLY Inc. located in Georgia. The charge was about half the cost of what everyone else wanted for just one, $45.00 plus $9.00 USPS shipping. I was more interested in the fact that it was a urethane tire and NOT rubber.The instructions were simple, placed the welded joint on the wheel and stretched the tire on both sides until you have it on. Did it all my myself.:)

[John Lanciani]

Glad to hear that you are back in business. Does the replacement tire have the rib on the inside that the original had?

[Boyd Gathwright]

Hello John, No, Peachtree talked with Grizzly, neither the rib nor the crown matters in this case. The saw is up and running and doing well.

[Boyd Gathwright]

:)Second Bandsaw Tire Replacement - Grizzly G0507 20” bandsaw

Well it’s happened again, this time it’s the lower wheel tire. The other day I threw the switch and I heard this awful thrashing sound. At first I thought the blade had broken. I opened the upper door and I saw about 6 to 8 inches of the black rubber tire from the bottom on the shelf under the wheel! So I opened up the bottom door and there laid a large piece along with several smaller pieces of the lower rubber tire laying in the bottom of the cabinet. I cleaned up the mess and got out the second half of the pair of Urethane tires I bought several months ago and installed the new tire in about 10 – 15 minutes.


I have included a pic to show how easy it is to install a Urethane tire with two strong flat, sticks of wood, in working the Urethane tire on the wheel, just like installing an inner-tube on a bicycle.


I started replacing the lower tire by using a plywood stick approx. 1/2” thick, 1” wide and some 21” long. I attached it to the wheel AFTER placing the Urethane tire on the top half of the wheel ( see pic ) and clamping it on both sides with Two (3”) C clamps keeping the top portion of the tire on the wheel from coming off. Then take your two sticks ( mentioned above ) and stretching the Urethane tire and working the tire on to the wheel. One person can do this in approx. 10 to 15 minutes or less. It would be nice to have a third hand to hold the wheel from turning while getting the tire on the wheel.


Note: Like the first tire, age and colder temperatures in the shop and not using the saw for days at a time seemed to be the culprit here causing the original rubber tires to break apart. Also, now that both upper and lower wheels have Urethane tires, the saw now runs extremely smooth, NOT a hint of any wavering very smooth and true running.

371906

[Tom Trees]

Glad you got it running smooth,https://www.sawmillcreek.org/clientscript/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/images/smilies/cool.gif
I hope I can do the same with my machine.
Good luck

[Chris Hachet]

When a $25 tire; http://store.woodworkerstoolworks.com/20-tire/ breaks and wipes out a $250 carbide blade it won't seem like heresy. Stuff wears out, sometimes its best to just replace it and move on.Quoted for truth.

[Chris Hachet]

Glad you got it running smooth,https://www.sawmillcreek.org/clientscript/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/images/smilies/cool.gif
I hope I can do the same with my machine.
Good luckAgreed...Band saw is hugely useful