Block Plane Recommendation

[Ed Gibbons]

Suggestions regarding a good all around block plane would be appreciated.

Thanks..

[Robert Engel]

If I could only get one it would be a low angle to tackle endgrain.

You can find vintage Stanley 60 1/2 on Ebay. If you're looking for new, the WoodRiver block planes are quite good - nice thick blade.

Stay away from the modern Stanley's or Stanley knockoffs.

[Hilton Ralphs]

Either an old Stanley or a new Veritas Low Angle or Lie-Nielson variant. Don't bother with the new Stanleys but maybe a Wood River is suitable but I really don't know. I suppose it depends on your budget but the Veritas is good value for the money as you can get accessories like front knob and rear tote to turn it into a #3 size plane and then there's also the 45 degree chamfer guide which can be useful. Another nudge for the Veritas is the range of blades including a toothed version for difficult grain.

[lowell holmes]

I have a 60 1/2. I like it but my most used block plane is my Veritas apron plane. It does live in my apron.:)

I have both a vintage 60 1/2 and new 60 1/2. I prefer the vintage plane, but if I didn't have it the modern one is okay. It feels about the same.

The 60 1/2 is the original apron plane.

[Hasin Haroon]

I have two Veritas low angle block planes, I bought my first one and liked it so much that when a second one came up (used) I had to get it.
Other than that my Stanley no. 18 knuckle cap style block plane is one of my favorites - it's low angle and the design of the plane is exquisite, both aesthetically and functionally.

[steven c newman]

I have both a Vintage 60-1/2 Cordovan by Stanley (with original box) and a Millers Falls No. 56B. Use them a lot, even on end grain jobs.

Another good option is a vintage Stanley No. 9-1/2. Has an adjustable mouth, a little larger than the 60-1/2

Rough work, I use a vintage Stanley No. 220

Be very, very careful...block planes are like rabbits.....they can even multiply in the plane til..
359084
All I can do to keep the count below 10....:rolleyes:

[Jim Koepke]

Low Angle block planes work for me. I don't have as many as Steven.

Here is something of mine about block planes from a while back:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?123401-Fettle-to-the-Metal-With-LA-Blocks&p=1246005#post1246005

It may help you evaluate a block plane if you find one in the wild. It is always fun to find one at a yard sale or junk store.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Best available block plane: Veritas DX60 with PM-V11 blade
Best value block plane: LN #102
Best affordable block plane: vintage Stanley #60 1/2

Regards from Perth

Derek

[glenn bradley]

I'm with Lowell; I have a few but, I reach for the Apron Plane (http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=46791&cat=1,41182,41189&ap=1) most often for block plane jobs.

[steven c newman]

I may know a few things about..block planes..
359144
Half of these users are low angle style..
359145
Standard angle ones, including a couple #220s, all with their original irons....

A while back, I did have a Stanley #103......never could find much use for it....
359146
Too small for my hands..

[Stew Hagerty]

My personal favorite is the Veritas Low Angle plane on which I have added their tote & knob. I can use it as a block plane and like you would if Stanley had made a low-angle #2.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=47881&cat=1,41182,48942

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=41715&cat=1,41182,48942

I also have the optional Chamfer guide which works fantastically!

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=46296&cat=1,41182,48942
(http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=46296&cat=1,41182,48942)

[Rob Luter]

I've had a couple three 60 1/2 block planes. All were fine users. I have a LN version of the 60 1/2 now. It's exceptional. Another good choice is a #65 if you can find one . It's a little bigger than a 60 1/2 and can double as a really small smoother.

[Derek Cohen]

I may know a few things about..block planes..
359144
Half of these users are low angle style..
359145
Standard angle ones, including a couple #220s, all with their original irons....

A while back, I did have a Stanley #103......never could find much use for it....
359146
Too small for my hands..

Oh, you're such a beginner :)

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/Block%20planes/Blockplanes-all1.jpg

See my earlier post for recommendations.

Regads from Perth

Derek

[Mike Henderson]

The important thing in a block plane is the iron. If you get an older low angle block plane, get a modern iron, such as the LV PM-V11, and replace the iron that came with it.

If you purchase a new block plane it will come with a modern iron.

My favorite is the Stanley 65 knuckle joint block plane. I have several and have modern irons in all of them.

Mike

[steven c newman]

I start selling mine off, once they get over 15 planes...worse than rabbits
359151
Sometimes, I even get them to work they way they are supposed to..
359152
I did learn to keep my hand out of the way.....
359153
And, sometimes I even get it right....plane on the right, is a Millers Falls No. 1455 low angle block plane, seems to work...
359154
Came in it's own little box, BTW...
359155
One of two adjustable mouth, low angle planes I have, the other is a Millers Falls No. 56B, about the same size.
Started out with a Blue Stanley No. 110 back in the late 60s....

[bridger berdel]

Oh, you're such a beginner :)

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/Block%20planes/Blockplanes-all1.jpg

See my earlier post for recommendations.

Regads from Perth

Derek

I see you still have the orange plane....

[Derek Cohen]

It serves as a reminder ... :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[glenn bradley]

I see you still have the orange plane....


It serves as a reminder ... :)

There's a story here I may have missed . . . :)

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Glenn

It was a fun review with a serious undertone ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20Orange%20Block%20Plane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rob Luter]

Oh, you're such a beginner :)

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/Block%20planes/Blockplanes-all1.jpg

See my earlier post for recommendations.

Regads from Perth

Derek

I've been there (and beyond). I just recently did some major herd thinning and sold off a pile of block planes. I'm down to four block planes now. Stanley #18 and #65, and LN 60 1/2 and #102. I'll just need to figure out how to get by :rolleyes:

[mark kosse]

I have a 60 1/2. I like it but my most used block plane is my Veritas apron plane. It does live in my apron.:)

I have both a vintage 60 1/2 and new 60 1/2. I prefer the vintage plane, but if I didn't have it the modern one is okay. It feels about the same.

The 60 1/2 is the original apron plane.

In 60 1/2's I have lots of old, real old, 2 newer English made and a LN 60 1/2. One of the newer Stanley's is modified to plane bamboo rod strips. Of them all the LN is the least used. I have no real problems with English made Stanley's, especially 60 1/2's. The LN is nice, but a bit heavy and weight is not needed for my block plane. Do get a good blade if you get a stanley.

Here is a pic of one with an old hock in it. I called hock and ron said it was from when he was making them in his back yard. I ordered it new but thought it was the late 90's. He seemed to think older.

the veritas is just too modern for my taste, but their blades aren't.

[John Sanford]

A couple of quick considerations.

If you don't have much experience with handplanes, then do yourself a favor and get a new premium plane (Lie-Nielsen or Veritas, perhaps Clifton if you're in the UK). Why? Because it will save you a lot of fumbling about trying to figure out whether the old rescue plane you got at the garage sale across town is junk, or you don't know how to set it up. In short, the premium plane will give you a fixed, objective reference. The good news is that block planes are the least expensive of the common planes. Given that a metal bodied block plane will, for all intents and purposes, last a couple of millenia as long as you keep corrosion at bay and don't subject it to trip hammers, you can consider one to be a lifetime purchase.

The second consideration is your hand size. Large hands tend to find the Veritas Standard and Low Angle Block Planes more comfortable. Small hands lean heavily towards the apron planes. The LN/Stanley/Woodriver/Benchdog (Rockler) 60 1/2 is in the middle, as is the Veritas DX-60. Beyond those very general guidelines, it's hard to say much more about how you and any given plane will get along, because it's very much a personal fit thing.

Recommended to avoid any plane from a big box store, regardless of the maker. Any plane from Harbor Freight. The can be made to work, sometimes. If you want to spend the time to get them working, have at it. Or you can spend the time working wood instead.

[steven c newman]

A block plane is about the most simple plane to set up......all you need to do is sharpen the iron. Set the depth to where it will make a shaving, and go to work, Every last block plane I have...works, and needed very little work to get that way.

Open a box for a new plane? What does that teach anyone? Other than how to open a box? Does it teach you how to set one up? Does it teach you HOW to sharpen it up when it gets dull.

I'll keep buying them "junk" 60-1/2 low angle blocks planes from that "sale across town" for the $5 they go for......hour later ( if that..) and it will be ready to go to work. I merely ask planes to do their job, not to look pretty, sitting un-used on a shelf...

[Jim Koepke]

I tend to agree with Steven. A fellow woodworker in Portland and I met at a tool event. He had a new LN #4-1/2 that didn't work out of the box. Something shifted in shipping as is prone to happen. He was afraid to do anything to the plane to try and set it straight. Fortunately he was able to take it to the tool event the next day to get help setting it up.

My knowledge of setting up and using hand planes to work to the fullest of their capability didn't come from opening boxes of new planes. With so much knowledge being shared on line and so many folks willing to help those new to the hobby a person with minimal abilities shouldn't have trouble getting good results from a second (or third) hand plane. The best reason to purchase a new plane is because one has less time than money or for the personal pleasure of owning amazingly well engineered new tools. It is easy to understand and accept such reasoning.

jtk

[Allen Jordan]

Hah, I also remember the orange plane.

I have a 60 1/2 I've fully restored, including lapping the base and the bed/frog area. And it still doesn't hold a candle to my LV LA block.

[Dan Goodman]

Lie Nielsen Rabbet Block. It handles several jobs, and does them all to near perfection.

[steven c newman]

So does the Stanley #140.......and there was a Sargent made one, and a millers Falls made one......Point?

[Dan Goodman]

Yeah I have a #140 too, it works, not as nice. Not to mention with these planes you don't get the big cost difference as the old ones generally are pretty pricey.

[lowell holmes]

I have both Lie Nielsen 140 and 60 1/2 planes. They are both sweet planes, but I use my Veritas apron plane more.

I will not part with any of them.

[Jerry Olexa]

I like the old STANLEYS but also like my LN blocks

[Matt Lau]

To the OP, it partially depends on where you are located.

If you're lucky enough to be in a place with a lot of vintage planes like Steven, please try picking one up in your hand and going for the plane that speaks to you. Buy it. Fettle it. Get a better blade (PMV11, or Hock). Love it.

Hand tools are funny things. I used to obsess over getting the "best" of things for my very limited money. However, I've found myself focusing on satisfaction and enjoyment over "value."

Maybe I'm finally growing up.

[Matt Lau]

Oh yeah Ed,

I forgot to answer your question.

My first good block plane was a factory second Lee Valley Apron plane.
Impeccable performance. great steel. Very "functional" esthetics. Excellent value.

My favorite block plane is a Lie Nielson 103 (recommended by Derek).
Fit and finish are several notches below the LV factory second.
Steel is A2 instead of PMV11 (sorta gummier feeling on the stones).
However, it feels really nice in hand...and reminds me of all the late nights that I worked the first (unpaid) year of my dental practice.

Hand planes are pretty special.

[Aubrey Kloppers]

Either an old Stanley or a new Veritas Low Angle or Lie-Nielson variant. Don't bother with the new Stanleys but maybe a Wood River is suitable but I really don't know. I suppose it depends on your budget but the Veritas is good value for the money as you can get accessories like front knob and rear tote to turn it into a #3 size plane and then there's also the 45 degree chamfer guide which can be useful. Another nudge for the Veritas is the range of blades including a toothed version for difficult grain.

What about the new Stanley Sweetheart range? And here I am talking about the "Stanley 12-136 No. 4"? (Like here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002B56CUO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

I just heard good things about them...

cheers
aubrey

[Hilton Ralphs]

What about the new Stanley Sweetheart range? And here I am talking about the "Stanley 12-136 No. 4"? (Like here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002B56CUO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

I just heard good things about them...


Good question Aubrey. I think most woodworkers (not carpenters) are suspicious of Stanley and would rather spend a little bit more on a second hand Veritas #4 or buy a good old one from Patrick Leach or Joshua Clark (given they don't want to refurbish a rusty blob themselves).

The reviews are favourable though but we don't get the sweetheart range here and the 'Handyman' range is quite shocking to say the least.

Maybe I'm wrong as that Sweetheart looks great but who knows if the sole is flat and the iron is any good?

[Aubrey Kloppers]

Good question Aubrey. I think most woodworkers (not carpenters) are suspicious of Stanley and would rather spend a little bit more on a second hand Veritas #4 or buy a good old one from Patrick Leach or Joshua Clark (given they don't want to refurbish a rusty blob themselves).

The reviews are favourable though but we don't get the sweetheart range here and the 'Handyman' range is quite shocking to say the least.

Maybe I'm wrong as that Sweetheart looks great but who knows if the sole is flat and the iron is any good?

Hi Hilton (and others)
I just read through the Amazon ratings and it seems I am wrong! The tool seems shoddy made and not worth the effort. I am now looking at the Veritas range, but the only stockist I can find in Cape Town is "Hardware Center". The price (once payed for) about R5000 (+/- $500, depending on what rubbish our president Jacob Zuma decides to cause and how much money he tries to steal) seems a bit much if you look at the $219 LV is asking...

cheers
aubrey

[Hilton Ralphs]

Completely off topic now but take a look a look Patrick Leach's recent list (http://www.supertool.com/forsale/2017listmay.html).

Look at ST6, ST7, ST25, ST26 and ST27.

Also contact Joshua Clark here (http://www.hyperkitten.com/contact.php) and ask him to look out for a good #4 for you. Send it via Postbox-Couriers (http://www.postbox-courier.com/) and you'll have it soon.

I've bought from both of them and regularly use PBC.

[Jim Koepke]

What about the new Stanley Sweetheart range? And here I am talking about the "Stanley 12-136 No. 4"? (Like here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002B56CUO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

I just heard good things about them...

cheers
aubrey

Did I miss something?

The #4 isn't a block plane to the best of my knowledge or did the topic change?

jtk

[john zulu]

Best available block plane: Veritas DX60 with PM-V11 blade
Best value block plane: LN #102
Best affordable block plane: vintage Stanley #60 1/2

Regards from Perth

Derek


I would have to agree with this. It was worth spending on these hand planes.

[Hilton Ralphs]

Did I miss something?

The #4 isn't a block plane to the best of my knowledge or did the topic change?

jtk


We were laid on the way.

[Kurtis Johnson]

I've had a couple three 60 1/2 block planes. All were fine users. I have a LN version of the 60 1/2 now. It's exceptional. Another good choice is a #65 if you can find one . It's a little bigger than a 60 1/2 and can double as a really small smoother.I have a couple 65s. I like them a lot. Don't love 'em. Feel big, and I don't have small hands either. Might humble the collection and trade 'em out for some 60s. I absolutely adore my handy li'l Sargent 206 apron plane.

[Tommy Martin]

One of my favorite tools period, is the LN 102. very capable. Would also like the 103 if I could still find one.

[lowell holmes]

The LN 102 is indeed a nice tool.

My Veritas Apron Plane is a nice tool also.

[Kevin Perez]

Another vote for the LV low angle block plane. I had a tough time choosing between it and the LN, but some of the added features (like side set screws) of the LV swayed me.

[steven c newman]

A few years back, I bought a MINTY Millers Falls ( in original box) No. 1455 low angle block plane...$16 plus shipping. used it again last week. Had a very sticky drawer on a dresser I built. Once I got the drawer pried open, I used the 1455 to plane away the sticky parts. Long thin curls were raised with ease. I was giving the 60-1/2 and the Millers Falls 56B a little break.

Have HAD the Stanley No. 103 come through the shop......was not impressed. I also have several Stanley No.9-1/2s and a 9-1/4.....one of the 9-1/2s is a type 2. A little bigger than the 60-1/2 or the 56B....

Don't really need or want an "apron" plane.....why? When the plane til is about..2 steps away. Happen to like my vintage planes, and can tune them to match about anything "New & Improved" being sold. I can set mine once, and not have to fiddle with the settings again.

Started out a LONG time ago with just a blue Stanley No. 110, with a chrome cap iron....and even used it the level glue joints in old white oak....still have the Oak tables I built with it. The wood wasn't that plain, straight grained, quarter-sawn, easy to work with stuff.....this was a bit knotty, flat sawn stuff. Had the 110 set well enough, never had tear out.

The pictures of my plane til show the current herd, and I keep having to trim that herd down a couple times a year. Every sale and antique shop around here has a bunch of block planes. Almost trip over them. I will RARELY ever spent more than $6 for any block plane. I traded for the 60-1/2.....the 56B was about.....$15 COUNTING shipping. Other than colour, the 60-1/2 and the 56B are the same plane...one by Stanley, one by Millers Falls. Great users.

Maybe a heads up to those that don't want to pay all that much for a simple, little plane...

[Jim Koepke]

Maybe a heads up to those that don't want to pay all that much for a simple, little plane...

Have to agree with you Steven. Many folks are under the impression that every deal one can get on the used market is going to rob them of money, time and ability to continue woodworking. One of my Stanley #60 series planes was bought in the 1980s or 90s at a hardware store. It is actually a pretty good plane. Another is from the years when someone at Stanley decided cordovan was the color tool buyers would have to have. It is another very good plane. Both of them were good from the start, with a honing of the blade getting them right to work.

One of mine did turn out to be a bit less than the others. A bit of work on the sole turned it into a useable plane.

jtk

[Paul Phillis]

I have the veratis low angle block and a lie neilson low angle rebate block plane. Both are very good though I have to be careful with tear out. My go to block plane is a Falcon 220, which is an 1950's aussie copy of the stanley. The blade is set a bit steeper than the other pair and is quicker to sharpen, though quicker to dull. Veratis and Neilson are horrendously expensive here in Oz so I recomend that auction place for old planes, though we dont have your postal issues.

[john zulu]

The LN 102 is indeed a nice tool.

My Veritas Apron Plane is a nice tool also.

What is the difference? I could not detect much accept the bronze body

[Derek Cohen]

Suggestions regarding a good all around block plane would be appreciated.

Thanks..

It all depends on what you want and are prepared to spend.

Some just want a small plane to use to chamfer edges. One minute of planing and let's get it done. I don't care what I use as long as it works ..... well, for those, you can use anything that has a blade that holds an edge. My old Orange Block Plane demonstrated this. Stanley #110 or #220 .... large mouths and unfriendly adjustments - but they work.

Then there are others that want something better, since a low angle can plane end grain more efficiently, and adjustments are important. However, money is an issue. This is the audience for a vintage Stanley #60 1/2, as I mentioned earlier. Cheap and classic.

Is there any point in a premium block plane, such as the Lie-Nielsen #102 (the #103, which I have, is no longer available) or Veritas Apron plane .... both on the cheaper side of premium ... or a Lie-Nielsen #60 1/2 or Veritas DX60 (since the NX60 is not available again at this time), both on the more expensive side?

There is a world of difference when handling a Stanley #60 1/2 and a Lie Nielsen #60 1/2. The Veritas DX60 takes this to an even higher level. Chalk and cheese. The latter planes have a solid heft for their size, have better steel, better adjustments, and are just plain more comfortable to hold. Get one of these if quality and ergonomics are important and you can afford it.

All the planes actually cut wood pretty much the same.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Graham Haydon]

Excellent summary, Derek.

[john zulu]

For trimming I prefer the 102. As for end grain work and heavy removal it would be the DX60.
Yes DX60 is more expensive but I prefer 102 to use*for the work I currently do*. Both can create equal thin shavings.

After looking back I don't see the need for the same kind of engineering for DX60 to be applied to 102.
So yes one of more expensive but I don't see a better plane over one another.

For it's application both excel.

[Kurt Cady]

It seems everyone has missed a big point that I haven't seen mentioned (admittedly I may have missed it). The best block plane is the one that fits YOUR hand. I have several. A LV low angle. A LN 60.5. Several Stanley's (60.5, 9.25, etc.) For me they all work. But you couldn't pry the LN 60.5 out of my cold dead hands. It just fits like a well worn jacket. I do wish I could get a PMV11 for it though. It's an old version with water cooled steel similar to O1.

The LV is great too. It's just a bit too wide for me. But with the extra plane-like tote, I love it.

I might one one day get the LV DX60. I believe Derek has some side by sides that make me think it is very similar in size to the LN60.5