Taper Jig Question

[Andy Henriksen]

I'll be making a taper jig today. Most of what I see online look like the following pic, where hinge end is the end that passes the blade first. I'm concerned that with a longer board, or a wide angle taper being cut that with this design, you run the risk of the end of the work piece hitting the fence. Also, if you were to taper your workpiece to a point (for whatever reason), you would be bringing the saw blade right into the jig at the non-hinge end. Why couldn't you build it the other way, so the open end of the jig passes the blade first and the little push block is on the hinge end? Is it just a matter of the workpiece not being supported as well that way?


http://www.geocities.com/PicketFence/5276/shop/image02.jpg

[Lee Schierer]

The hinge goes first so the piece you are cutting will tend to stay against the jig as you push the part through the cut. If you reverse the jig, the blade cutting action will tend to pull the tapered piece away from the jig.

I've found that I get better tapers by making a shooting board of appropriate length and attaching a 3/4" wide runner under it to fit in the cross cut groove to the right of my blade. Then I rip the jig to the exact width. Then I can align my part to the edge closest to the blade and be sure of where the cut line will be. I hold the part in place with pieces of double sided tape. If I have multiple parts to make I trace the outline of the first part onto the surface of the shooting board making it easy to set up the next piece.

[Alan Turner]

Below is an unpublished shop tip I submitted to FWW some time ago, which was rejected. I thought it might be helpful to some on this board.

An Alternative Taper Jig

Unlike most taper jigs which I have seen (and used), this one does not carry the stock to be tapered between the blade and the fence. Rather, the stock is clamped to a sled, and the assembly is pushed through the blade with the operator standing largely to the side of the saw. There is little or no chance of “pinching” the stock, and hence there is less chance of kickback. If there is kickback, it will be to the rear, away from the operator.

This jig is made with the usual sled construction -- hard maple runner under 12mm baltic birch plywood. After the runner is fitted and attached (glued and screwed/nailed) to the sled, the plywood is then cut with the runner riding in the miter groove, so that the edge of the plywood is precisely aligned, throughout its length, with the rip blade path on the cabinet saw. This is a critical step for the setup of the stock to be tapered.

The “clamp” is a 1/4 x 20 carriage bolt, recessed into the bottom of the base. A set up block about the same height as the stock to be tapered sits to the left, and a wood “bar” with a slot for the bolt then goes across the stop, and the stock. I find that a special jig handle, commonly available, is easier to tighten than a smallish wing nut, but either will work.

Setting this jig for use takes a drop longer than the conventional, adjustable type, but it is worth the extra minute or so as there is never a mistake. (Sometimes I would make 5 legs, just in case, but no more.) Just mark the base of the stock to be tapered, and mark the starting point of the taper. Then, place the marked stock on the sled with the marks even with sled’s already cut edge, and clamp in place. With a screwgun, simply attach the front and rear stops tight to the stock with drywall screws. For identical cuts on the other pieces to be tapered (typically legs in my case), simply insert the fresh stock in the two holders, clamp in place, and cut. If only the two inside faces of the leg are to be tapered, rotate the stock 90 degrees and make both cuts from the same set-up, using one of the tapered offcuts to shim between the leg and the wood clamp. If all 4 sides of the leg are to be tapered, cut two contiguous faces, and then reset the stops and cut the other two faces.

Two notes: 1. Using a shoulder plane, loosen the runner just a bit, and when you push the stock through for the cut, push the jig and stock into the blade; for the return stroke, pull it away from the blade and with the play, there will be no extra dust or chance of catching. 2. Save the offcuts as hardwood shims as they are always useful, and one can’t have too many. A “pack” of them makes a wonderful shop-warming gift for a dust making friend.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I have one of those jigs and it scares the heck out of me when I use it so I only use it for very mild tapers. If I need anything more tapered. I'll make a fixed jig out of plywood, or use the bandsaw and handplane to make it.

[Dave Richards]

I've used a jig similar to the one Alan shows. I've also taken a piece of MDF for a sled and stuck down locating blocks with carpet tape which works well with multiple tapers such as for table legs.

[John Gregory]

This was in a recent issue. I have not made one, but something to think about Taper Jig (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/fw_178_046.asp)