Ripping hard maple - Woodworker II 40, 30 or 20 teeth?

[Sean Rainaldi]

I have been using a 40 tooth Forrest 10" with my griz table saw for a long time - I think their general purpose blade. I think I was using it for ripping as well - for rails and stiles no longer than for cabinets - and raised panels.

I have a lot of baseboard and entry molding to do now, so I will be finish ripping 7'-8' long boards - 2.5" wide molding. I am wondering if since it's hard maple, should I just stick with my 40 tooth WW10407125 or should I switch to a 20 or 30 tooth Forrest ripping blade?

With something like really hard wood - is it better to stick with a general purpose or cross cut blade?

Thanks for any advice.

[Andy Giddings]

Think you'll get different opinions on this as I know some people use a combi blade for everything. For Hard Maple, especially when ripping a lot of it, I would switch to a ripping blade. Unless you are locked into Forrest for some reason, there are a lot of other excellent brands out there that cost less.

I'm guessing you have a lot of Hard Maple if you are using it for baseboards and entry molding - I would normally go for something cheaper :-)

[Erik Christensen]

a combo blade will work but not as well for ripping as a blade made just for that single purpose - hard to tell if what you want to do is going to work OK as it depends on how hard the wood (hard maple is pretty dang hard), how thick & how big a motor on your TS.

you said you had a lot to do and to me that justify's a rip blade - but if you have a 5hp TS and it is only 4/4 then it really does not matter

[Chris Padilla]

The thickness of the maple you are ripping will matter a bit here. Sounds like most of it is in the 3/4" realm, then your combo blade might be all right.

However, you might try a 20-30 tooth ripping blade and see what you think. One trick I've found with ripping blades: push them through a bit harder/faster than you're used to and you'll get better results and less burning...typically.

[Roger Marty]

Think you'll get different opinions on this as I know some people use a combi blade for everything. For Hard Maple, especially when ripping a lot of it, I would switch to a ripping blade. Unless you are locked into Forrest for some reason, there are a lot of other excellent brands out there that cost less.

I'm guessing you have a lot of Hard Maple if you are using it for baseboards and entry molding - I would normally go for something cheaper :-)

My 1955 home is filled with Honduran Mahagony baseboard and entry molding ;-)

As far as ripping hard maple-- I ripped a bunch of 8/4 hard maple using a 40t combo blade with a 1.5HP Ridgid R4512 saw. Bogged down a bit but did the job. In retrospect I might have changed to a ripping blade.

[Prashun Patel]

If I were ripping 3/4" or thinner, then I would not hesitate to use that blade. I would only change it if I noticed burning.

[Sean Rainaldi]

Oh sorry....my table saw is a G1023SL Grizzly, and I am ripping mainly 4/4 hard maple...

[Joe Spear]

The 40-tooth WW II will work to rip 3/4" hard maple. I use one for that frequently. However, if your push-through speed is a little slow, there could be some edge burning. A 30-tooth WW II will work very well.

[Larry Copas]

My 3 hp Unisaw has the 40-T WW II on most of the time. If I'm going to rip more than a few boards I don't hesitate to change to a Freud glue line rip. Easier on the saw motor, the operator, and gives a better cut. Same time I put the rip blade on I also put the splitter back on. Most boards cut fine without the splitter, but there will be that one board that has tension and with maple a burned edge is the result.

[Joe Jensen]

If you use a purpose built rip blade you will be surprised at how much easier it is to push the stock through the blade. The surface will be rougher but you will be able to push faster and avoid the burning you can get with ripping some woods with a combo blade. This is because you can keep the wood moving to avoid building up too much heat.

[julian abram]

If you have a lot of material to rip you'll find it a lot easier with something like a 24T rip blade, your saw will thank you also.

[glenn bradley]

For 3/4" maple the 40 tooth blade should do OK. As stated, if burning is a problem a lower tooth count should solve that. Lower tooth count also makes the feed easier / faster. Lucky you, a 24 tooth rip blade is one of the cutters that can be had at a high quality level without a very high price.

[John Lankers]

Generally speaking for hardwood, use a rip blade if you're ripping all day long and a cross cut blade if you're crosscutting all day long, otherwise use a sharp, quality combo blade and just slow down a bit. I hate changing blades every other cut, just my 2cts.

[Mike Cutler]

Your 40 tooth blade will do it, but a dedicated rip blade will do it easier. If you've got the extra $$$$ lying about, go for the dedicated rip.

It doesn't have to be a Forrest rip blade, but that's up to you.

[Lee Schierer]

The thickness of the maple you are ripping will matter a bit here. Sounds like most of it is in the 3/4" realm, then your combo blade might be all right.

However, you might try a 20-30 tooth ripping blade and see what you think. One trick I've found with ripping blades: push them through a bit harder/faster than you're used to and you'll get better results and less burning...typically.

I would check the saw alignment if you are getting burning if you cut slowly. A well tuned saw should not leave burn marks. I recently replaced my thin kerf ripping blade with a full kerf Freud Glue Line rip blade and could barely believe the improvement in cutting. On my 1-1/2 Hp saw I can easily cut through red, oak, maple, walnut, cherry or poplar with no problems and get a better quality cut.

[lowell holmes]

I have a rip blade that I use when doing a lot of ripping, like for sizing wood.

If I have just a couple of cuts, I use the combination blade.

The rip blade leaves a better surface.

They last a long time, mine are several years old.

[David Kumm]

Sounds like a good time to check out the saw. Check runout by ripping just far enough to clear the back teeth. Stop the saw, back up the board, and then measure the kerf at the entry end and the final cut point. Both should be the same and within a few thou of the tooth width. The kerf should not exhibit a ridge indicating the back blade teeth are cutting on side more as thethan the other. If that is good, either blade will be fine. If not, fix the fence and deal with the arbor flange. There should be no indication of a ridge on either side of the kerf or a wider kerf when both ends of the blade cut. Then whatever blade you choose will give good service. Dave

[Mel Fulks]

Just read thru this again ,still don't know if you are ripping rough or dressed wood. I've sawn more 8/4 than 4/4 rough maple and sometimes got some burning with 20 tooth ten inch blade. 18 tooth worked substantially better . Saw as fast as you can without bogging down motor. Expect a little burning ,especially with pieces that are twisted.

[Mike Schuch]

I have never owned a combination blade. My Powermatic table saw is pretty much always wearing a rip blade (Usually Freud) and my radial arm saw is pretty much always wearing a Freud ultimate cut off blade. For the most part the only exceptions are when one might have a dado blade attached. I have never considered a combination blade.