Routing question

[Dick Holt]

I am making a frame for a mirror, approx. size is 26" x 32". Frame is made of maple. I cut a rabbet for the mirror with a trim router and a rabbeting bit. On the second pass I got a little chip out. I still need to make one final pass with the router. Should I back- rout this last pass?
Dick

[George Bokros]

If you mean climb cut if the pass is a light one I guess you could or just make your last past a very light one.

[Paul K. Johnson]

Routing is one of the woodworking tasks I do the most. No matter what I always leave 1/32" to 1/64" to make a final pass. Depending on the amount of material to be removed I may make several passes to remove the bulk before that last pass. I never do climb cuts and never get any chip-out. Having quality bits that are actually sharp makes a difference as does getting the router speed right.

For bulk removal in maple I slow down the router quite a bit and keep passes to about 1/8" to 3/16" at most. Final pass (the 1/32") I speed the router up and move the wood as fast as the router allows. A lot of times I'll change out the bit or resharpen before the last pass.

If I started with a sharp bit and am only doing parts for one project then the change-out isn't necessary. But mostly I do production so by the time I'm ready for that last pass on a lot of pieces I don't trust the bit to be sharp enough.

[Jim Dwight]

Light final cut is a sound suggestion. In addition, you might want to look at the grain where the chipout occurred. Sometimes there is a spot or two prone to chipout due to grain orientation. You may need to move more slowly and cut lighter in those areas.

[John TenEyck]

I never climb cut on the router table, but I often do it with a handheld router. It's the only way I know of to eliminate tear out in really nasty wood.

[Dick Holt]

Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate it. All very helpful.
Dick