Plane for small detail work

[Phil Mueller]

Looking for some general experience/advice here. Wondering about the various miniature/palm/inset/instrument planes for small delicate work...primarily chamfers, round overs, small smoothing needs, etc. on boxes and other small projects (I'm leaning towards the mini block planes).

If you use any of these small planes, could you give me your thoughts/recommendations?

Thanks!

[steven c newman]

Too small for my hands, but...there IS a 3 pc set at Harbor Freight you MIGHT want to look at...

[Jim Ritter]

I have a few of what are called thumb planes. Regular and the squirrel tail models, vintage and the LN ones. The squirrel tail ones are less fatiguing to hold but my favorite is the bronze instrument makers plane from LN because it has the blade adjuster for depth of cut, all the others one has to tap the blade or body to set the blade. The mouth opening on the LN squirrel tails are too small in my opinion as it will take only the finest shavings. I left it alone as I have the vintage ones with a really wide mouth, but it has been recommended to file it open a little bit.
Jim

[Randy Heinemann]

You might try the Lie-Nielsen Violin Maker's Plane (similar to the older Stanley #101). It's pricey, but it's a great small plane. It works well for chamfering corners, especially on smaller pieces. Because of it's size and weight (body and cap are bronze), you have a lot of control. It just feels right in my hand when I use it. It might require a few more passes, but I never have to worry about taking too much off on any one pass if it's set right. Unfortunately you can't get into corners with it, because it's constructed just like a regular bench plane only smaller. You might also try a low angle block plane. I have found the Wood River from Woodcraft is a great plane and less expensive than Lie-Nielsen and Veritas (although theirs are probably better planes). The low angle block plane with an adjustable throat also provides great control for chamfering and a wide variety of work (somewhat more versatile for a broader range of work than the Lie-Nielsen Violin Maker's plane, but not as cool).

[John Burrows]

Hi Phil,
Just a thought:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=69857&cat=1,41182

John

[bridger berdel]

For general small chamfering and trimming I like a block plane with the adjustable toe. Fits well in my hand and all that. A standard angle block plane is the same footprint as a #2. A #1 is quite a bit smaller and has a chipbreaker, which makes it a lifesaver in some cases though many find it awkward to hold.

I just picked up a mujinfang palm plane. Single iron, bevel down, wedged, high angle. Haven't used it enough to form much of an opinion of it yet, but it definitely works.

[Dan Hulbert]

This is my favorite small plane. Use it for just the kind of tasks you listed.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=56665&cat=1,41182

[steven c newman]

Stanley #60-1/2..
358460
That I use for roundovers...and

358464
Millers Falls No. 56B. Same as the Stanley 60-1/2

[lowell holmes]

I have a 60 1/2 plane. I treasure it. It is one sweet plane. It is the original "apron plane".
Actually, I have an old one and a new one.
Rockler and Home Depot still sell them.

[Jim Koepke]

I have various small planes. Most of the time my #60 or #65 series LA block planes are used. When something a bit smaller is wanted a #102 comes in handy. Even smaller is a squirrel tailed plane and a Millers Falls equivalent of a #101.

For chamfering I have two wood body molding planes that do a uniform job.

For rounding over a corner a wood body hollow molding plane is used.

For small smoothing needs #3, #2 & #1 planes are used.

For a small plane with a chip breaker a #1 is a good choice all except for the one time cost.

Yesterday while trying to reach into some tricky spots my #90 bull nose shoulder plane was put to work.

It is always good to have a wide base from which to choose.

jtk

[Kurtis Johnson]

Looking for some general experience/advice here. Wondering about the various miniature/palm/inset/instrument planes for small delicate work...primarily chamfers, round overs, small smoothing needs, etc. on boxes and other small projects (I'm leaning towards the mini block planes).

If you use any of these small planes, could you give me your thoughts/recommendations?

Thanks!

I have a couple Stanley 65's. They are pretty big. I've got a Sargent 206 apron plane. It's not low angle, nor does it have an adjustable mouth, but I just love it! It's so small it's incredibly handy and one of the more satisfying planes I use. It's boat shaped so is very comfortable in the hand. FWIW. I'm far from expert.

[Lee Schierer]

Even though these planes are intended as gifts, they are functuional. Miniature block plane (http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=70138&cat=1,230,41182,70138)

[Jim Koepke]

Phil,

Another thought might be to look at spoke shaves. They can be used like a plane in many situations.

jtk

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks all! Appreciate your first hand input. I do have several vintage and new block planes, and know I could make them work, just feeling like a smaller version would provide a little more control and finesse with smaller project work.

I like the depth adjustment ability on the LN instrument plane and the LV mini. I may just need to drive over to the LV store in Windsor and get my hands on all the options they have. I may even take a look at the mini spokeshave as well.

Or maybe just pull the trigger on one and see where it leads.

[John C Cox]

Ibex makes several very small musical instrument makers planes. Most have curved soles - though I think there are a few flat ones.

Sharpening the irons can be tricky because they are teeny...

And while they are cute - they are a bit of a DIY kit to get set up initially...

Handy little things though.

[Phil Mueller]

Well, since this is the last day for free shipping, I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a LV mini block plane, but I can see some good use for the Ibex planes and the LN instrument plane is very tempting as well. This could be one slippery slope....

[Matt Lau]

If you go Ibex, try it with a cork:
https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/321686-finger-planes/

[Phil Mueller]

Thank you Matt. I've seen a number of posts on the learning curve to sharpen and set up these planes as well as modifications...that's the first one with cork...one used a golf ball, many mods from wood. I do believe there is one in my future. I'll see how the traditional mini works and go from there...

[Alfred Kraemer]

I have had the Lie Nielsen model makers plane with the flat sole. It is essentially a squirrel-tail plane similar to the old Stanley version, with one big difference: it is a low-angle plane! I have gotten a lot of mileage out of this plane since I bought it when it first came out about 10 years ago.
All our window trim has been fine-tuned with this plane. Despite its small size, the squirrel-tail handle allows you to apply quite a bit of force, so much so that on occasion I manage to push the blade back a little especially if it has gotten a little blunt.

Alfred

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks Alfred...for adding more reason to go down this slippery slope! I do suspect one of those will end up at my front door sometime in the future.

While not my original need for a small plane, the curved sole Ibex models seem to be an interesting option for creating and/or fine tuning curved table legs, skirts, and other rounded pieces following a spokeshave.

[Rob Luter]

Following some major herd thinning, I'm down to four Block Planes that share all the duty for detail work. A Stanley Knuckle Joint #18, a Stanley Knuckle Joint #65, a LN #60 1/2, and a LN #102. No matter the task, one of those always seems well suited for the job.

[george wilson]

I have made many,many small planes for instrument work. You can make a simple wooden mini plane from a hard wood. I have used boxwood,but any good,hard wood will do. If you can't handle hardening and tempering the blades,make the blades FIRST from good quality hacksaw blades with the wavey teeth completely ground off the one side. then,make the plane to fit the blade you have made. Use the simple cross pin version to hold the wedge down.

[steven c newman]

Before:
358516
During..
358517
And, after...
358518
Stanley spokeshave, Millers Falls No. 56B, just to make a handle rest
358519
In about the time it took to type this all out.....

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks George. Could you post a pic or two...would love to give it a try. No shortage of old hacksaw blades and plenty of small hardwood cutoffs laying around.
Appreciate it.

[Richard Line]

I haven't seen this approach mentioned in this thread. I've used it for working the occasional small piece. Put a regular bench plane (#4 or #5) upside down in your vice and then push the small piece of wood over the plane. Depending on the size of the piece, you can just hold it in you hand or make a small pusher block from scrap wood. Be watchful that you keep the pressure even over the full length of the stroke. You can flatten a face, or chamfer or radius an edge. Of course this isn't going to work with a curved surface, well, maybe a gently curved convex surface.

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks Richard. I have used that technique to fine turn long narrow strips to be used as inlays. It works very well. For small chamfers and the like, I'm thinking I would prefer taking the plane to the wood vs the piece to the plane. We'll see. I appreciate the reminder of that possibility.

[Matt Lau]

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/making-luthiers-planes-part-1-a-66587/

FWIW, I bought my blades from Japan Woodworker.
I want to make some of these one day!

[Brian Holcombe]

Ko-ganna are nice for this.