Epoxy for Mesquite - What Color

[tim walker]

Not sure if this fits this topic or not, so admin feel free to move. Making a Krenov inspired standing jewelry case that will have 4 legs of mesquite. The slabs of mesquite has some voids and checks and I feel sure it would be better filling those with epoxy first before final dimensions. What is the best (in your humble opinions) epoxy for the job and what color would you try to use? I am thinking black but was also thinking of adding some turquoise chips to it so clear might be a better choice there. The majority of the cabinet will be mesquite with the drawer fronts birdseye maple.

[Jim Colombo]

I do a lot of Mesquite and use a slow setting epoxy for a couple of reasons. 1) It is "soupier" and fills the tiny cracks better, 2) More time to add and mix the filler (usually turquois).
Be sure to put a coating of finish on the surface near where you are going to put the epoxy.

[Jim Finn]

I would use a finishing resin called Z-poxy. mixed with blue, chalk line, chalk....... Z-poxy is thin & slow setting (Overnight) and penetrates well. You will have to block the underside of a void or crack with masking tape or it will all run out the bottom.

[tim walker]

Here are some pics of the slabs. Most do not go all the way thru. Should I rough dimension prior to using the resin or do it at this state? Don't want to risk damage. Jim Colombo, do you put a coating of finish on to prevent bleed in to the surrounding wood? And finally do you have a good source for the turquoise, is it rough or fine or just a turquoise color>

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[Jim Colombo]

The finish around the crack is exactly for keeping the epoxy from staining the wood. It will be sanded off in later steps but is needed early on.
I have a good local source for the turquoise. They grind their own stone and have some manmade turquoise as well. Natural Expressions, Inc. (480) 963-6552.

I should have added, they have both rough and fine turquoise but I prefer the fine.

[tim walker]

So are you using the epoxy in thick pieces are finished pieces? Not sure how deep some of my checks are. These slabs are about 3-4" thick and will be re sawed to 4/4 or 5/4 but there will also be 4 legs that will be 1 7/8" final dimension.

[Jim Colombo]

I use the epoxy in all thicknesses, it actually helps to keep the cracks from enlarging. The turquoise looks fantastic in large voids.

[tim walker]

The finish around the crack is exactly for keeping the epoxy from staining the wood. It will be sanded off in later steps but is needed early on.
I have a good local source for the turquoise. They grind their own stone and have some manmade turquoise as well. Natural Expressions, Inc. (480) 963-6552.

I should have added, they have both rough and fine turquoise but I prefer the fine.

Thanks Jim, I found them on eBay. When you say fine do you mean powder or small is all I see. The small looks a little bulky to me

[Jim Colombo]

I use the powder in different shades. If you give them a call you'll be amazed at the color choices. I go to their shop because it's only a half hour away. I have both the man made and natural turquoise in different colors. but both are powders. The larger size doesn't get into the cracks as well.

Jim

[William M Johnson]

I use a lot of mesquite. I use West System Epoxy. I would advise against filling the voids full in one application. You will get bubbles that prevent a fine finish.

To help with the bubble issue you can use a heat gun directed at the curing epoxy. This seems to make the bubbles come out better. The bubbles come from the hot epoxy reacting with the wood. If you can get a thin coat of epoxy over the entire crack, let it dry. Go back and fill up crack with final amount. Is way he final fill never touches the wood and minimizes bubbles.

You can tint with virtually anything.

RO 150 is almost mandatory for epoxy filling.

Bill

[Rick Potter]

Black with gold flecks looks good too. Just don't overdo the gold.

[John C Bush]

I use West Systems and usually don't tint. The epoxy is clear when the finish is on and you get a nice 3-D "peek" at the grain pattern. With mesquite the fills would look dark when not too close but The turquoise would add a nice Southwest look. Be sure and send pics when done. I would fill the cracks after S4S-ing and before resaw. My guess is that most of the bubbles are from air being displaced from the tiny nooks and crannies by the flowing epoxy. I make wood "spatulas" from 1/8" by 1" scrap. Angle the end and bevel one side to push or squeegee the overflow back into the crack and pop the bubbles as needed. In addition to taping the underside of the thru cracks, on the last big slab project I used thin CA to flow into the deeper cracks to seal thru hole, hit it with accelerator then poured in the epoxy. Seemed to help with losing time and material and having to scape epoxy off the floor. I usually find mini bubbles when final sanding and use medium thickness CA with accelerator to fill. Finishes the same and an instant fix. Good luck.

[tim walker]

Jim, I have been in contact with them and they do have a wide range of turquoise colors, however they don't have a color catalog so that I can see the colors. What would you say is your absolutely favorite color of T? I like a little darer and some imperfections in it for a full stone. Also, can you tell a vast difference in the man-made vs natural? Thanks Jim

[Jim Colombo]

Jim, I have been in contact with them and they do have a wide range of turquoise colors, however they don't have a color catalog so that I can see the colors. What would you say is your absolutely favorite color of T? I like a little darer and some imperfections in it for a full stone. Also, can you tell a vast difference in the man-made vs natural? Thanks Jim

I can't really tell the difference in color between natural and man made. It's not all that expensive and a small package lasts a long time. The man made does seem to be a little darker than the "Sleeping Beauty" which are the only 2 I have right now.

I don't think you can go far wrong with either. Make sure to take pictures when you finish.

Jim

[tim walker]

Hi Jim, I received my stone from Arizona (Trish said hello) I bought Sleeping Beauty small and Sleeping Beauty powder. Trish recommended the small stone as she said the powder was sometimes difficult to mix with the epoxy. I wanted to ask what proportions of stone do you usually add and have you had a problem? And also wanted to ask if you pre-dimension or rough dimension your mesquite prior to applying the epoxy and stone dust? Seems like it would have more thorough coverage that way.

[Jim Colombo]

Hi Jim, I received my stone from Arizona (Trish said hello) I bought Sleeping Beauty small and Sleeping Beauty powder. Trish recommended the small stone as she said the powder was sometimes difficult to mix with the epoxy. I wanted to ask what proportions of stone do you usually add and have you had a problem? And also wanted to ask if you pre-dimension or rough dimension your mesquite prior to applying the epoxy and stone dust? Seems like it would have more
thorough coverage that way.

I just mix enough powder to look good but still be runny enough to flow down and fill the voids. I usually overfill the void to make sure it's all full and then do my dimensioning. If you try to dimension first you might have to refill a number of times because the epoxy ends up settling lower than your finished height
.

[tim walker]

Was thinking since my stock is almost 3" thick and will be resawn, that maybe taking it down to rough dimensions, say 7/8". might work better.

[Mark W Pugh]

To help with the bubble issue you can use a heat gun directed at the curing epoxy.

Bill

Be careful with the heat gun. I just turned bubbles in to nasty looking splotches. My first try, I think too much heat.

[Mark W Pugh]

I use West Systems and usually don't tint. The epoxy is clear when the finish is on and you get a nice 3-D "peek" at the grain pattern. With mesquite the fills would look dark when not too close but The turquoise would add a nice Southwest look. Be sure and send pics when done. I would fill the cracks after S4S-ing and before resaw. My guess is that most of the bubbles are from air being displaced from the tiny nooks and crannies by the flowing epoxy. I make wood "spatulas" from 1/8" by 1" scrap. Angle the end and bevel one side to push or squeegee the overflow back into the crack and pop the bubbles as needed. In addition to taping the underside of the thru cracks, on the last big slab project I used thin CA to flow into the deeper cracks to seal thru hole, hit it with accelerator then poured in the epoxy. Seemed to help with losing time and material and having to scape epoxy off the floor. I usually find mini bubbles when final sanding and use medium thickness CA with accelerator to fill. Finishes the same and an instant fix. Good luck.

Great technique on using CA.

Thanks!