JDS multi router

[Ron Bontz]

I am sure this has been touched on before, but if there is any one who currently uses a multi router from JDS I would like to hear from you. I need to cut 3" deep mortises and tenons. Besides the length of the cutter, I was wondering how well the machine handles this deep of a cut and if the templates would be available. Custom made perhaps? Debating between a mill and multi router. Thanks in advance.

[John Sincerbeaux]

I have had my MR for years. The depth of the mortise or length of the tenon is not a function of the "template". Templates are used for the width and thickness of the tenon/mortises. I have not used my templates in years. I just use floating tenons. Way easier and way more flexibility. You can easily and quickly set up the MR to make any size mortises/tenons.
The depth will be limited my the length of the router bit you use.
I use my MR for things you would never guess.

[John TenEyck]

In case you don't know, you can build your own horizontal router mortiser and save about $2500. That was powerful motivation for me to design and build one:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nW-voZlbUybzrfifUMLoXJzOrnsGl6jDFLKG_bmwWi5KkA1Mtfpn_ 9_gu28Zr-x-q8Bu_Jw162qSZgBR9EnEoHU6UUaqBYxlQDRy8Ws0jI2XQ7uhRy 1eRFllzNX3JVVkU_4rnGoHEzIAPJsKB2hO9t8-fYwa_Nglmg-FvRnEi47Gmx_DCMNYciiIiw_DrJWUVbqUQDXkH4fJrKMqUzmro Id6kJEZNyJbYrrZgwbIwS3fDpnSd00dc45DsOfgSo0eV5c5n0L TEvdR6QCADADqds66KbCYn9wVbehd8W1epubDnoJ3b85IUAoy7 SybGtxNWNb6k-zor5-vMXFeEjxheyZ194QAmRk7wkLdZBwZ9gtQepOpo-c5xXoWBtKbBzyfR_owp30ErAdxIMCSLdaZdmJ4-FzctFofRrtix23TniQLX02SmE4fOsGCxHSWf1N8hEdx5eTN_fU OlBorNuHo8sVDElJM8skOkCoGl9ByDbFft-gESYXdoFoH-8vdANsSV9fB7EOODmhzUusaCzSozb1PQyRjb3NPrLeCgxSlA5e-J5dGgW1FZjcee2FmgHK92KwSBXKWPHfys_uCw-LNH4K4xzuXo759WVxXtc2m2gS1sp1KTN7dcx0eBMjwp6S9x06S GoZ1XuthXbzbdSFjzWQZtpxoyzM_ImeEINqdsTk=w640-h480-no

You can find a free SketchUp download of my first generation of the machine at the link below. That machine is now about 6 years old, has made thousands of mortises, and is still working fine even though it's made from MDF and maple runners. It cost less than $100 to build.

A horizontal router mortiser will make mortises of any size, limited only by the length of the router bit. FYI, I use long length center cutting end mills; they are much cheaper. The machine will also make integral tenons, dowel holes, rabbets, raised panels, and more. The tilting table version shown above is perfect for chair makers or any other application where you need to make single or compound angled mortises.

https://sites.google.com/site/jteneyckwoodworker/current-projects/horizontal-router-mortiser


The JDS Multirouter is a great machine; just too rich for my blood.

John

[Rick Potter]

So, John...

I don't want to hijack Ron's thread, but what improvements have you made to the newest generation of your mortiser? Maybe you could start a new thread in the tool building forum?

[Rick Fisher]

I have a multi router, for 3" mortises I would want a slot mortiser with a real motor, not a router..

[Cary Falk]

I have a multi router, for 3" mortises I would want a slot mortiser with a real motor, not a router..

+1. I have a 2" long 1/2" diameter pattern bit that I use sometimes. It can chatter sometimes. I can't imagine using a 3" bit on a router. I am not sure then make a 3" bit. I would get a used hollow chisel mortiser on CL. I see them all the time here.

[John TenEyck]

+1. I have a 2" long 1/2" diameter pattern bit that I use sometimes. It can chatter sometimes. I can't imagine using a 3" bit on a router. I am not sure then make a 3" bit. I would get a used hollow chisel mortiser on CL. I see them all the time here.


It's not as scary or hard as you might think. I use two or 3 flute center cutting end mills, and run the router at lower speed. I've cut mortises more than 3" deep w/o problems. It's all about technique when using a router mortiser, whether mine or the Multirouter. Light zig-zag cuts, one way then the other. The resultant mortises are just as smooth and straight as shallow ones cut with a shorter bit, and no comparison with the ratty cut you get from a hollow chisel mortiser.

John

[Jim Andrew]

I looked at the JDS machine before buying the Grizzly G0540. The 540 is inexpensive compared to the JDS, and works well for me as a slot mortiser. I use 1/4" milling cutters to make mortises in 3/4" boards. It does NOT have an adjustable angle on the table, but does have stops so you can make matching mortises. I added a wood table top, and make pencil marks on it to move from one piece to the next.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

I've had a MR for 20 years, I couldn't do without.
That said, I don't know of any router that could take the side thrust of a three inch cut.

[John TenEyck]

I've had a MR for 20 years, I couldn't do without.
That said, I don't know of any router that could take the side thrust of a three inch cut.

Mike, you are missing the point. You only take 1/32 to 1/16" cuts with a router mortiser. Watch my video and you will see. Operated that way, there is essentially no side load on the bit and it doesn't chatter, and that allows you to cut very deep mortises.

John

[John TenEyck]

So, John...

I don't want to hijack Ron's thread, but what improvements have you made to the newest generation of your mortiser? Maybe you could start a new thread in the tool building forum?


Rick, I offer the machine shown above for sale so I'd rather not detail all the improvements I've made to the original machine beyond what you can easily see in the photo. I will say that the first machine I made, as shown on my web page where you can download a SketchUp model for free, is alive and well after about 6 years and having cut thousands of mortises. For the average hobby woodworker both machines will last a lifetime, and anything that may eventually wear is easily and cheaply replaced.

John

[Ron Bontz]

Thanks, everyone, for your thoughts.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Mike, you are missing the point. You only take 1/32 to 1/16" cuts with a router mortiser. Watch my video and you will see. Operated that way, there is essentially no side load on the bit and it doesn't chatter, and that allows you to cut very deep mortises.

John

Even a 1/4 inch cut 3 inches from the base of the router will wear out bearings faster than you can imagine.

[Jamie Buxton]

Even a 1/4 inch cut 3 inches from the base of the router will wear out bearings faster than you can imagine.

So you're saying that a Multi-Router has longer bearing life than John's horizontal mortiser?

[Mike Hollingsworth]

So you're saying that a Multi-Router has longer bearing life than John's horizontal mortiser?

The opposite. I keep extra bearings around for the Bosch that sits in my MR.
Nothing eats up router bearings faster than a Multi-Router.

[Rick Fisher]

I use a Milwaukee Router in mine and would agree, its harder on the router.. There are companies that make aftermarket bearings which are far superior to the stock ones for PC routers. I read about it on a CNC forum where they where using 7518 routers and having bearing problems from similar forces.

I think high end bearings would help but don't use it enough to bother ..

[John TenEyck]

I don't make that many really deep mortises, but a fair amount in the 2" range. I take light cuts and, so far, I haven't had a bearing give out. I used a 20 year old PC 690 router with a lot of abuse already in my original mortiser for about 5 years, then moved it over to my new model until about a year ago when I swapped it out for a variable speed Sears router so I could run vertical raised panel bits.

John

[Charles Lent]

The manual and videos provided with a Leigh FMT jig recommend to plunge cutting adjoining holes to the desired mortise depth. Then move the router side to side at the full depth desired to clean out the remaining material. This minimizes the side forces that the router is subjected to. If you do this with a CNC, horizontal router, or Multi Router, I think your bearings will last much longer. The higher quality bearings should also help.

Charley

[John TenEyck]

You would have to bores holes that nearly completely overlap for that to be a good idea. Full depth sideways routing will apply a lot of stress to both the bit and bearings. And if you engage and disengage the bit will chatter as it removes material and then hits the C/L of the next hole. On the other hand, if you route in a zig zag pattern, from one stop to the other, and take off no more than about 1/16" per pass, the stress is minimized on both and the cut will be smooth and consistent. Go try both ways and see.

John

[richard poitras]

Rick, I offer the machine shown above for sale so I'd rather not detail all the improvements I've made to the original machine beyond what you can easily see in the photo.
John

So John what is the price for a machine totally built?