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Mike Audleman
04-14-2017, 12:44 PM
http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/71/82/44627182.e5d216dd.500.jpg (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/wolfie/44627182)

57H350C

Not sure of the significance of the "Number: 1404" line. And the rest is chinese :)

I believe this to be a 3 phase stepper that draws 3a. However I am not positive.

I would like either another just like it or something lighter weight (less current draw) as long as it will function with the same motor driver board.

This is on my rotary attachment and I am building a chuck style attachment. I don't think I need as beefy of a motor just to hold pens or the odd class/cup/water bottle. This attachment, most likely like yalls, plugs into the machine in place of the y-axis gantry motor. So I don't want a motor that isn't directly compatible with that driver as shown here:
http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/71/38/44617138.2b257ecb.500.jpg (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/wolfie/44617138)

And I don't need that exact mounting size as I have not designed nor constructed the frame that will house the motor yet so any NEMA/Length is in play here.

Does anyone have a source, preferably here in the US?

Yes, I can scavenge this one if I HAVE to but I would rather not tear down the current attachment as this motor is a bit large to be honest and at 1.7#, darn heavy too.

Rich Harman
04-14-2017, 5:38 PM
Since you are using the same driver as the Y axis, I think you should keep the motor the same size - or as near as possible. If you use a smaller motor you run the risk of overheating it due to the amount of current it is receiving from the driver. Unlike a regular motor, the coils in a stepper are energized even with the motor motionless - that's how it holds its position without any feedback.

Mike Audleman
04-14-2017, 5:55 PM
Since you are using the same driver as the Y axis, I think you should keep the motor the same size - or as near as possible. If you use a smaller motor you run the risk of overheating it due to the amount of current it is receiving from the driver. Unlike a regular motor, the coils in a stepper are energized even with the motor motionless - that's how it holds its position without any feedback.

Suppose. If thats the way it works. I am unfamiliar with this sort of driver (3 phase). If it supplies a constant current then a smaller one would overheat.

I just figured since there was substantially less mass to move (ie, no gantry), I could get away with a smaller motor.

Still unable to locate a vendor for this motor. Was hoping someone here had a source.

Rich Harman
04-14-2017, 6:33 PM
Three phase stepper, or regular stepper, a constant current is required to maintain position.

Mike Audleman
04-14-2017, 7:05 PM
Three phase stepper, or regular stepper, a constant current is required to maintain position.

Yes, however I presumed that the resistance of the coils would restrict the current. Haven't delved into them that deep nor looked at the driver circuits. Will have to do some reading up on the subject and get more familiar with them.

Gary Hair
04-14-2017, 7:11 PM
http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/71/82/44627182.e5d216dd.500.jpg (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/wolfie/44627182)

57H350C

Not sure of the significance of the "Number: 1404" line. And the rest is chinese :)

I believe this to be a 3 phase stepper that draws 3a. However I am not positive.

I would like either another just like it or something lighter weight (less current draw) as long as it will function with the same motor driver board.

This is on my rotary attachment and I am building a chuck style attachment. I don't think I need as beefy of a motor just to hold pens or the odd class/cup/water bottle. This attachment, most likely like yalls, plugs into the machine in place of the y-axis gantry motor. So I don't want a motor that isn't directly compatible with that driver as shown here:
http://cdn.ipernity.com/200/71/38/44617138.2b257ecb.500.jpg (http://www.ipernity.com/doc/wolfie/44617138)

And I don't need that exact mounting size as I have not designed nor constructed the frame that will house the motor yet so any NEMA/Length is in play here.

Does anyone have a source, preferably here in the US?

Yes, I can scavenge this one if I HAVE to but I would rather not tear down the current attachment as this motor is a bit large to be honest and at 1.7#, darn heavy too.

I googled that part number and the first hit was the manufacturer...

Mike Audleman
04-14-2017, 7:27 PM
I googled that part number and the first hit was the manufacturer...

You mean this one?
http://www.longkangtech.com/product_detail.php?ProId=69

If so, yea, they are in China. And I didn't see any way to order the part there.

As I said in the OP, I was hoping someone had a US retailer so I didn't have to go to china to source it and wait months for it to arrive.

Rich Harman
04-14-2017, 8:22 PM
Yes, however I presumed that the resistance of the coils would restrict the current.

As I understand it, the driver will try to supply the current that it is configured to provide. It will raise the voltage as necessary in order to push the current through. Something that is current limited at a given voltage will still allow more current to pass at a higher voltage.

Howard Garner
04-14-2017, 8:26 PM
Take a look at this
http://leadshine.com/productdetail.aspx?type=products&category=stepper-products&producttype=3-phase-stepper-motors&series=573S&model=573S09
Looks close and is 3 phase and the right stepper angle .
But check out the other dimensions.
Howard Garner

Bill George
04-14-2017, 8:27 PM
DHL Air China for something that size would not be that expensive. A stepper is a stepper, if its 3 phase and a certain NEMA size, voltage and steps or step angle pretty much any would work. You have the spec's on the one you found that should make it easier. You don't need the same brand. My friends at light object dot com or any of the venders on eBay or Amazon should be able to fix you up. We are talking about $50 or so here, perhaps a hundred.

In fact the Samsung TV power supply I purchased, came from Hong Kong in 3 days and cost $25 to get here.

Ray Scott
04-14-2017, 11:33 PM
It looks like you are trying to build a rotary device. I would suggest that you use a really small stepper motor. .. He are some basic guidelines.

1) A NEMA 17 would be fine for driving the small load of a rotary attachment device. (3-phase, single stack). I personally prefer the 4-wire bipolar motors.

2) You should be looking to use a matching amplifier (3-phase, low amperage source... 0.25-1.5 range).. Or the matching 4-wire for a bipolar motor. Don't buy an amplifier because it has a higher amperage rating. Using high amperage will cause the motor to pull to the pole and negate the actual micro stepping effects.

3) Make sure the micro-step amplifier can hit the desired 6400 micro steps. That is a 1:32 micro stepping. Don't try to ask for 256,000 micro steps.. It is a worthless venture. You are better off to use real mechanical gearing reduction to get the higher resolution.

4) Use a tiny drive gear and the largest driven gear that you can fit onto the fixture. It would be a good idea to try a driven gear with MXL profile .. 15 teeth. Use a driven gear with like 60 teeth or more. Go BIG on the driven gear!

If you are interested in the mathematics of the system, I can help there too. I have already worked out the methods for calculating pulse size when given the information about stepper pulses per revolution, drive gear size, driven gear size, O-Ring diameter, micro-step divisions...etc.

it doesn't really matter what controller or software you are using. The choice of motor, amplifier, and doing the math should be able to cross all platforms.

thank You,

Glen Monaghan
04-15-2017, 12:04 AM
A smaller stepper motor won't necessarily overheat because the key is the impedance of the winding. Epilog runs their rotary stepper with 40 volts and without any current limiting, causing the regular motor to get uncomfortably hot with extended use. And the stepper really isn't even rated for 40V (I've seen people putting 24V steppers, even 12V steppers in Epilog rotaries; not uncommon to hit steppers with higher than rated voltages for solid stepping, but they usually use current limiting, which Epilog does not do). Better design would have used current limiting to initially drive the coils with "high" current to ensure solid stepping, but then to limit/reduce "hold" current (laser rotaries have architectures that don't need much power to hold position between steps), thereby not wasting power and creating a lot of heat. I wanted to use a smaller stepper for a custom chuck-based Epilog rotary and got the OEM to custom wind a smaller stepper motor frame with higher impedance coils spec'd for continuous 40V operation without any danger of damaging the coils.

Rich Harman
04-15-2017, 5:42 AM
2) You should be looking to use a matching amplifier...

By "amplifier" I assume you mean "stepper driver"? If so then how would it be connected to the main board?

Bill George
04-15-2017, 8:07 AM
By "amplifier" I assume you mean "stepper driver"? If so then how would it be connected to the main board?

I had assumed he was just un-plugging the Y axis and plugging in the rotary like is done on most Chinese machines. Same driver but a matching motor. He does need to get somewhat close on the motor voltage.

Mike Audleman
04-15-2017, 11:36 AM
I had assumed he was just un-plugging the Y axis and plugging in the rotary like is done on most Chinese machines. Same driver but a matching motor. He does need to get somewhat close on the motor voltage.

You are correct sir. My system has a jack on the firewall between the work area and electronics compartment. The driver is within the electronics compartment. The Y axis on the gantry plugs into that jack on the firewall. The stock rotary attachment (2 axils with the photo'd motor) plugs into that same jack after you disconnect the gantry Y-Axis motor harness.

I am in the process of printing and making this chuck:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:624625

Which will be attached to a yet-to-be-designed elevated support and frame. This will be for doing water bottles and similar light mass things. And possibly, um, pumpkins (long story). Fake pumpkins, the ones you get from Michaels. So again low mass but they are way big diameter and bumpy making the existing two axle rotary jig all but worthless. The existing jig is, however, useful for many other things and why I don't want to dismantle it if I can keep from it.

Because it will be elevated, I was considering direct drive or 1:1. That way I would not have to deal wht any changes in the machine settings when using the rig. Also reduce cost (pulleys and belts).

I am open to suggestions if anyone has any. I havent made anything but the chuck as yet so anything goes at this point.

Bill George
04-15-2017, 1:16 PM
I printed two cones for my factory rotary, I have the smaller one so I came up with a cone idea to hold mugs and such and the other side of the cone is for a 13 mm piece of drill rod and that chucks to the chuck. Its in Fusion 360 drawing format if you need that or a STL file.

Mike Audleman
04-16-2017, 2:45 AM
I printed two cones for my factory rotary, I have the smaller one so I came up with a cone idea to hold mugs and such and the other side of the cone is for a 13 mm piece of drill rod and that chucks to the chuck. Its in Fusion 360 drawing format if you need that or a STL file.

Thank you Bill. I may take you up on the STL once I have a rotary attachement that could use it.

This is what I have now:
358396

Thats why I wanted to construct a chuck type one like this:
http://www.lightobject.com/GetImage.ashx?Path=~%2fAssets%2fProductImages%2fro tary_1.jpg&maintainAspectRatio=true&maxHeight=800&maxWidth=800

Except I will build the motor/chuck fixture so its tall enough to handle the foam pumklins. And I don't think it will cost me $500 either :) Even if I bought this one I would still have to replace the motor since its the wrong one for my driver. I don't need a lathe quality chuck. The one I printed in ABS will be sufficient to hold whatever I plan to laser. I am not milling steel. I am turning an object in air with no resistance. So as long as its supported properly at the opposite end with a dead-center the ABS print should suffice.

Once I build that, your cone idea might be very handy indeed. It might come into play with the pupmkins :)