When a bandsaw blade breaks

[Edwin Santos]

Hi,
I had a Lenox Tri-Master 1/2" blade break a couple of nights ago. It's my go-to blade for all re-sawing, veneer sawing, ripping of thicker stock. It was about 12 years old and I use it quite a bit.

It broke right at the weld. Other than the Tri-Master, I mostly use carbon steel blades. I have never had a carbon steel blade break because usually I am discarding them because they're dull. But in the case of the Tri-Master being a carbide tipped blade, I once heard that the blade body will fail before the teeth will dull so I am thinking my blade failure is just part of the life cycle, dying of natural causes you might say.

For you veteran Tri-Master users out there, does this seem right to you or would you say my blade breaking is indicative of a problem?

If it helps, here are some facts:

My saw is a 16" Meber P400 (Laguna sold this saw as a LT16SEC in the 90s). Made in Italy
I was resawing walnut, about 4" cut, maybe 18" long
I don't think I had the blade tensioned really high. I know in the absence of a gauge, this is very subjective. Let's say I had the tension within my typical range
There was some tension in the wood. The kerf was closed at the start of the cut. But I'll point out that where the blade broke was well into the cut, way past where the kerf had closed, so I don't think there was binding going on at the moment of failure
My saw uses Euro guides. I don't think there was an issue with the way they were adjusted
I have only had one other blade break in the 18 years I've owned this saw.


I love the Tri-Master, and I'm ordering another tomorrow. Just looking for input on whether what happened was abnormal. Thanks

[Bill Space]

Hi,

I can't help you, but I wonder if you could send it back to them and have them re weld it, if the teeth are still good enough.

Just a thought.

Bill

[Nelson Howe]

I'd say you got your money out of it after twelve years. Sounds like it got a little fatigue and broke. I broke a one inch woodmaster after about 5 years and felt like I'd done ok.

[Matt Day]

Hi,

I can't help you, but I wonder if you could send it back to them and have them re weld it, if the teeth are still good enough.

Just a thought.

Bill

Totally agree! If it broke at the weld it should be an easy fix that would save you a couple hundred bucks. They would hopefully inspect it too for any other issues.

[Edwin Santos]

Totally agree! If it broke at the weld it should be an easy fix that would save you a couple hundred bucks. They would hopefully inspect it too for any other issues.

That is a good thought, but I should have added, it kinked pretty severely when it broke and sprung out from suddenly released tension inside the closed doors.

[Joe Spear]

Twelve years. I would be pretty happy with that life and assume it might be fatigued in other areas besides where it broke. It may be time for a new blade rather than a repair.

[john lawson]

Don't know if you are aware that the 1/2" Tri-master is actually thinner stock than the 3/8" blade they sell. So yes, it could be just metal fatigue from use.

Thought I would mention that as you said you were going to order another one. I have had several of the the 1/2" and 3/8 blades and have seen this before. Also, the tooth configuration is a bit different on the two blades.

[Brice Rogers]

I think that the most common point for the blade to break is at the weld. Often times when they are making up a blade, that part gets ground a bit thinner. I think that you could probably take that blade to any outfit to get it rewelded. Perhaps their are local companies who could do it.

Some people silver solder their broken blades, using an 1/8" or 5/32 scarf joint. I have done this for my metal bandsaw and have had excellent luck. But it requires a fixture to hold the blade and takes some finesse and practice. So I am not suggesting that you do this. You got 12 years out of your old blade (which is great) and perhaps getting it rewelded could give you an extra few years.