Deep Parting problem - new tool and difficult wood

[Brian Kent]

I have used parting tools on hundreds of pieces, so I know the basics about approach and widening the cut to prevent binding. I am working on a set of goblets that are 3.5" wide at the foot. The wood is very dry kiln-dried ash. Ash has sort of a rugged grain where the hardness of the light and dark rings varies quite a lot.

As I get more than about an inch into the wood, even with a double-wide cut, the leverage changes and it throws the tip downward, catching the parting blade between the piece and the tool rest. I have experimented with high, middle, and low cuts, delicate and firm grip, fast and slow cuts, and fast and slow spinning.

The tool I am using is D-Way Parting Tool (new) with a D-Way 8" handle and sharpened on a CBN wheel.

To complete the parting I started with the D-way, switched to my old wider parting tool which has been used past the hardened portion, and finished with tenon saw. Any ideas or basics I am missing.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Brian, are you using a peeling cut? If so, you shouldn't have any issues as the diameter of the piece gets smaller. Pushing the parting tool straight into the wood will result in the problems you are experiencing - in my opinion.

[John Keeton]

Brian, Steve is dead on. That tool will do a peel cut through that piece like butter if presented correctly. Most folks I see use a parting tool incorrectly. When you engage the wood on a peel, you must slightly move the tool forward and raise the handle ever so slightly as the diameter decreases.

[Brian Kent]

Agreed. That is the cut that I use. This wood is very hard and chewy. It feels like the grain irregularities are doing me in. I have some nicely grained maple blanks that I will try next to see if "normal" wood solved the problem. Now am I assuming correctly that the wider edge and long point of the tool go on top?

[John Keeton]

No, the long edge is on the bottom.

[John Keeton]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=veFLSaBgCQo

[Brian Kent]

Glad I asked. Sort of like finding out I was using the wrong end of the rake.

[Brian Kent]

I trust my Creeker friends are laughing with me or towards me, but not AT me.

What do you know. It works.

However I will not take back any of the mean, nasty things I said about this hard, crispy, crunchy dried Ash. After this last piece of the set I will be using the wood for tool stand legs and not for making round things.

[John Keeton]

Actually, I don't recall having seen the video before and when I first got my el cheap thin parting tool I fought with it until I finally discovered how to grind it and hold it. So....been there and done that! The D-Way is a giant step above my old parting tool!

As to the ash, some wood is just contrary and while I typically enjoy ash, I am sure there are trees that for whatever reason are just not cooperative. I have had Walnut and cherry be that way - two woods I consider easy to turn.

[David Delo]

Must confess I did get a little chuckle out of your confession. I promise not to laugh AT you if you promise not to laugh AT me for once trying to cut into a bowl blank while the machine was in reverse!

[John K Jordan]

I use a peeling cut with several parting tools, much like peeling with a skew.

However, for difficult woods I prefer a fluted parting tool. I've had one from Sorby for many years. I haven't seen the dway parting tool but from the video it looks just like the fluted tool except it's missing the flute. The fluted parting tool is also used wide side down.

The flute creates two very sharp points at the point of cutting, one on either side of the wide side. These tend to more cleanly sever problem grain like hard ash since just the tiny point is cutting instead of a wider flat. Then the center part is cut away on the next revolution. I think this is much like the dway beading tools work.

I actually have two fluted parting tools, the smaller just 1/16" inch wide that I use a lot for small work in hard wood.

JKJ

[robert baccus]

I''m not laughing for sure. I have been hurt more by parting tools than all the others put together over the years. I turn mostly green wood which tends to get sticky in the cut. I've had 2 parting tools pull out of the handle and through my hands--really dunb and hurtful. I finally figured out a way to part even logs(10" plus) nice and square and safely but will share it only on a PM.

[Reed Gray]

One other good parting tool is the straight blade with the McNaughton coring system. Flared top is wider than the blade. Haven't tried Dave's parting tool though.

robo hippy