Mark Sommerfeld 35MM Euro Hing Jig problem

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I am building a bathroom base cab and made 4 raised panel doors. I used the Blum 38N358C.8 hinges. They are 1/2" overlay doors and I set the stops on #2. I was very careful to make sure the jig was mounted correct. The hinges are the type that has the switch for slow close. The problem is that on the hinge side of the door I have to adj the hinge as far away from the face frame as possible to get it to not hit the face frame when the door opens. On the handle side of the door the bumper pad is not thick enough to make the door even spaced across the top. From the front view it looks ok. But from the top view it looks really bad. I just talked to Mark Summerfeld about this and he says he has never heard of any people having this problem. As best I can remember the cup hole is about 1/8" from the edge of the door. Mark suggested to move the stops so the cup will be about 1/16" from the edge. 1/16 from the edge just seems to close to me. I have build several doors but just now going to the euro hinges. Has anyone else had this problem with this jig and how did you fix it? Will try to find a pic and attach.
Thanks
Johnny

[Mark W Pugh]

Call them with problem. He'll probably call you, if the others can't figure it out.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I had the jig set on #2 for 1/2 overlay. Looks like in the pic there is to much space between the edge of the cup and the edge of the door.358185

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Front view of doors.358186

[George Bokros]

Blum tells you what that distance needs to be. I have used those hinges but do not recall the measurement. Get on Blums website and find the install instructions for those hinges.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Sommerfeld just sent me a text. He said they should be 3/16 and my pics show cup to far from edge. I think I will take a scrap pc and drill the cup at 3/16 to 1/8 and see how it works. If fixed I will consider building doors again. But will most likely see how it looks after drawers are in. With the top on it may not be to bad. My wife wants me to plug holes and putty turn doors upside down and re drill holes (going to be spray painted white) I went by the instrctions and set the stops at #2 for 1/2 OL

[John TenEyck]

Probably not what you want to here, but I agree with George. Go to Blum's website and find out what they spec. for the boring distance. 9 times out of 10, 4.5 mm works, so you drill at 22 mm from the edge. You don't need a jig; all you need is Blum's info. and a combination square.

John

[Johnnyy Johnson]

You guys are right...I should have checked Blum specs like I did with the Blum underneath drawer slides. I was focused on the edge I put around the outside of the doors. (in pic above). I was afraid I would cut to deep and get into the cup. I took scrap and cut the outside edge. Then sawed it in half to see how deep I could go to not cut into the cup from the jig. Never take for granite a jig will work as advertised without checking. Take a second look at the above pics on my outside cut.
Thanks
Johnny

[Jerry Miner]

Part of the reason I don't like to use those "compact" hinges is that they are designed with a large "stand-off" (3/16" or more) from the face frame. A larger bumper will keep your doors parallel to the FF, but that 3/16"+ will be there.

Here's what Blum says about the installation specs: Blum38N (https://www.wwhardware.com/media/installation/b038n.pdf)

(I usually use the Blum 120's (https://www.wwhardware.com/blum-120-clip-top-hinges-blum-120-hinges))