How Best to Protect an Exterior Door?

[John TenEyck]

Rather than hijack the exterior door project I'll ask this separately. I have an exterior house door to make. The door faces due west in Buffalo, NY. There is no porch to protect it. The owner wants a clear finish, in fact has told me to use Cetol because that's what the neighbors have used with good success. A storm door makes sense at first thought, but on second thought that would likely lead to the temperature getting screaming hot between the doors in just the Spring and Fall to say nothing of Summer.

Sapele, clear finish. How would you protect it? Reasonable maintenance is ok, failure is not. Thanks.

John

[lowell holmes]

I wonder if a coat of wax would help. It certainly does on metal.

I love sapele.

[Wayne Lomman]

Cetol works provided you apply it every year. My preference is industrial 2 pack polyurethane with uv inhibitors. Hold onto your wallet though. Cheers

[peter gagliardi]

The Sikkens product, like mentioned will need yearly attention, and you can't build coats.
Instead, think "boats" in particular, I have had excellent success with Epifanes clear varnish from Jamestown Distributors.
It is my recommended finish.
Be warned, it is extremely thick, and you need to thin the different coats various amounts.
First coat is thinned 1-1, successive coats a bit less each time. It is a time consuming process, I think they recommend around 7 coats from memory. Using on doors, I shoot for about 5 coats.

Great UV protection, lasts for at least 3-5 years before needing anything, and its just scuff and recoat.
Only downside, is it comes only in gloss. They-Jamestown Distributors, do sell their new own brand stuff in different sheens, but no experience with that product.

[Warren Lake]

Epithanes is probably on most the Muskoka boats, some are in the millions. Too bad they dont make a flattening paste for it. High gloss looks good on those boats but doesnt make it on lots of furniture type stuff. One carpenter up here was asked to use it on an Ipe Porch never saw it but heard it turned out well but there is the upkeep aspect as well


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[John TenEyck]

Thanks so far. Wayne, I'm sure catalyzed poly lasts much longer up front, but I doubt repair or even routine maintenance is easily accomplished by the homeowner, so that seems like a non starter.

Peter, I've used Epifanes. It's a very good product; best I've personally used for outdoors. It is a real pain to apply all 7 coats and it ends up very thick and very soft for a long time. I'm actually surprised it can be used for a door that will stay pressed against a seal w/o sticking to it. It's probably what I'd choose, though, except the customer pretty much spec'd Cetol. There are good reasons to like it if it works, as it is supposed to "wear off" on it's own so you aren't building up a really thick film as you apply a fresh coat each year. Makes sense as long as it works. From what you folks are saying it works as long as it gets a new coat every year, yes?

Is my thought that a storm door will cause more problems due to high heat than it prevents valid or should I add one? I'm making the molding such that one can be added down the road, just in case, but if it's good idea I'd do it now. Anyone have any experience? Thanks.

John

[Malcolm McLeod]

Thanks so far. Wayne, I'm sure catalyzed poly lasts much longer up front, but I doubt repair or even routine maintenance is easily accomplished by the homeowner, so that seems like a non starter.

Peter, I've used Epifanes. It's a very good product; best I've personally used for outdoors. It is a real pain to apply all 7 coats and it ends up very thick and very soft for a long time. I'm actually surprised it can be used for a door that will stay pressed against a seal w/o sticking to it. It's probably what I'd choose, though, except the customer pretty much spec'd Cetol. There are good reasons to like it if it works, as it is supposed to "wear off" on it's own so you aren't building up a really thick film as you apply a fresh coat each year. Makes sense as long as it works. From what you folks are saying it works as long as it gets a new coat every year, yes?

Is my thought that a storm door will cause more problems due to high heat than it prevents valid or should I add one? I'm making the molding such that one can be added down the road, just in case, but if it's good idea I'd do it now. Anyone have any experience? Thanks.

John

YMMV (mine did) - -
I used Sikkens Cetol on my front door with full southern exposure (N. Texas). Two coats, applied 24hrs apart, lasted ~8 years as best I can remember.

About 6 months ago, we sold the house after renting it out for 6 yrs, with the original finish still on the door. Had it not sold, it was going to need a freshening. ...Good product IMHO.

[Bill Adamsen]

John:

I too have used marine varnishes like Epifanes. I veneered a solid core northwest facing door with straight grained fir (epoxy adhesive and vacuum bagged) and then coated with perhaps 7 coats of Epifanes and it has held up for 12 years ... it is actually still holding up. The door is protected from direct sun and rain, but still, that is an extraordinary life span. Confession, I did a similar door with Cherry veneer and it lasted just five years before the lower sections of veneer failed. It was embarrassing. Most outdoor projects I find require touch up or complete rehab after two years especially if one cheats on the last 2-3 coats. I have to date not used a catalyzed marine varnish but have heard that they are outstanding. Here is a link to an article on pro varnishing a Bristol finish which makes it sound difficult to accomplish at best. But there are great tips both in this article and in other articles on the same site.
http://bristolfinish.us/traditional-amber/professional-tips-suggestions/burr-yacht-sales/

[Jamie Buxton]

If you have the option, you might design the door so that the eventual refinishing is easier. For instance, a slab door would be easier to sand down than one with lots of complicated moldings.