Twist on tool handles?

[Steve Mathews]

I have a good assortment of turning tools largely because of purchasing a used lathe and friends that have given me what they no longer use. However, I'm finding it much easier to sharpen tools with the handle off and most of what I have are on fixed handles. I purchased a couple of Thompson gouges with one of his handles. It feels good in my hands and comfortable to use but a couple of set screws have to be removed to take off the tool. Not a big deal but the more you sharpen the more it becomes a nuisance. I also purchased a Stuart Batty skew and handle while at Woodworkers Emporium months ago and that has a twist off handle, which seems more convenient to use. It's a bit clunky but that may be a good thing as far as absorbing vibration. At this point I don't want to buy another tool unless it can be easily removed from the handle for sharpening. Besides SB who else makes a twist off handle and tools to go with it?

[Prashun Patel]

D Way makes their handles with a screw hole that accommodates a 'quick change knob' that they also sell.

[Steve Mathews]

D Way makes their handles with a screw hole that accommodates a 'quick change knob' that they also sell.

Thanks Prashun! I have one his parting tools and handle. Nice but I don't like the knob that sticks out from the handle.

[Roger Chandler]

I have two of the Serious Toolworks Cam-Loc handles.....I love 'em! They come with either a 1/2" or 5/8" collet, and the tool can be extended or retracted into the handle to suit the particular turning situation, or stored inside the handle for transport/storage. The Thompson gouges do fit the collets, as well s the Serious gouges, which are fluted the entire length of the gouge, meaning you can put either a different grind on each end, and flip as warranted [thiink swept back grind and bottom feeder grind]. Or the same grind on each end, which reduces trips to the grinder. They have a neoprene sleve that absorbs vibration, and makes a huge difference in colder shop environments. They are stainless steel constuction, so no worries about rust!

I have wood handles, Thompson handles, and the Cam-Loc's from Serious Toolworks, and the Cam-loc's are by far my favorites. The tool comes out for sharpening.

http://www.serioustoolworks.com/images/camlock-handle.jpg http://www.serioustoolworks.com/woodturning-tools.php

[Alan Dick]

Jimmy Clewes also sells cam lock twist inserts that you can use with a custom handle you make. http://www.jimmyclewes.com/product/jimmy-clewes-quick-release-units-and-set-screw-units/ I have several of these and they work very well.

[Eric Gourieux]

Steve, have you tried the aforementioned knob from D-Way? If you have not, you may be surprised. My first impression was that the knob would get in the way, but, for me, it does not interfere with turning. This may vary based on turning style/technique, and it may be a nuisance to some turners. I have several D-Way tools and handles along with the knobs, and they rarely get in the way. Occasionally, I will have to turn the gouge in the handle if I am shear cutting, but this is about the only time it gets in the way. The nuisance is far outweighed by the benefit of quick removal for sharpening IMO.

The only other option that I have seen is the cam-lock option that Roger mentioned. I can't comment on them since I have not used them.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Steve, have you tried the aforementioned knob from D-Way? If you have not, you may be surprised. My first impression was that the knob would get in the way, but, for me, it does not interfere with turning.
That's been my experience as well. Been using them for years and they don't get in my way at all. Sometimes simple solutions are best.

that said, iI also have one of the Robust collet handles designed by Ellesworth. They work very well, and a simple twist is all that's required. You can either buy the complete handle - its wood with a very comfortable profile, or buy just the collet mechanism and turn your own handle...

[John K Jordan]

...but a couple of set screws have to be removed to take off the tool. Not a big deal but the more you sharpen the more it becomes a nuisance. ...

Do you have a set of T-handle allen wrenches? I keep one on a magnet at the lathe. Much more convenient and quicker than the little allen keys. I put many of my most used tools in handles with set screw inserts (I make them myself) and I think it takes about six seconds to loosen the set screws. Maybe five. Gives me time to stop and think about life. But I have to think fast.

JKJ

[Grant Wilkinson]

I have the cam lock ones made by Doug Thompson for Jimmy Clewes. They are excellent.

[Michael Mills]

Here is one that uses colletts.
http://www.thewoodturningstore.com/er25-collet-set-w-ellsworth-handle/

May not for super heavy work but I mounted a keyless drill chuck (1/2") in a handle. Tool sits about 1.75" deep in the chuck and I have never had slippage.

[Pat Scott]

Steve I have tools with fixed handles, setscrew handles, and Stuart Batty handles. Yes the SB handles are quick, but like John said if you have a T-wrench close by it only takes a couple seconds to loosens screws. I turn a lot, I sharpen a lot, and I really don't mind any of these handles. To me the setscrews are no big deal and take as long to loosen as it does for me to unscrew a Stuart Batty handle.

[John K Jordan]

Do the quick twist-lock connectors people are selling limit how far you can put the end of the tool into the handle? The one I looked at a few years ago (can't remember which) only let the end of the handle extend a couple of inches into the connection.

To me this this deal breaker. I drill deep holes in my handles and make metal inserts with the set screws. This allows me to sink the tool shank as deeply as I want into the the handle and control the amount sticking out.

This is a big advantage to me for a couple of reasons. One, as the tool gets shorter with sharpening, I can keep the same length extended so the tool feels and behaves identically over its life. Two, for most turning and ESPECIALLY spindle turning, I do not want a tool extending a long distance from the end of the handle. It is harder to grip close to the tool rest when turning one-handed and harder to control for some applications.

These are some of the handles I make. Notice how much of the tool is extended on some.

357876 357877

Maneuvering a long tool+handle for tight spindle detail work is undesirable compared to a short extension. I have one 1/2" Thompson skew chisel I bought handled and it is so long it is unreasonable to use so I don't use it; someday I'll make a proper handle for it.

Being able to control the amount of tool extended is a big advantage of using the set screw inserts. Perhaps some of the twist-lock handles allow this. You might check before you buy.

JKJ

[Steve Mathews]

John - The Robust video linked below shows that their collet setup allows almost full travel within the handle.

I'll probably try a variant of the Robust/Ellsworth handle supplied by Woodworkers Emporium. I believe they use the Robust collet setup with a Stuart Batty carbon fiber handle. In the meantime I'll follow the suggestion above and have a T-handle allen wrench nearby for the Thompson handle with set screws.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cr5CdwNqcmk

[John K Jordan]

[QUOTE=Steve Mathews;2678707]John - The Robust video linked below shows that their collet setup allows almost full travel within the handle.

I'll probably try a variant of the Robust/Ellsworth handle supplied by Woodworkers Emporium. I believe they use the Robust collet setup with a Stuart Batty carbon fiber handle. In the meantime I'll follow the suggestion above and have a T-handle allen wrench nearby for the Thompson handle with set screws.

I see they drill the handle deep, good. The smaller handle apparently uses an industry standard ER25 collet, but turned around backwards. I don't see where they list dimensions but the ER25 collet is over 1" (26.2mm) in diameter. By turning it around they can put the smaller end (18.5mm) towards the work to reduce the size some. However, the collet nut is still going to be large. This might be fine for someone with large hands or using large tools for big work (like Ellsworth), depending on how they work.

When I started using the inserts with set screws, all commercially available were 1" in diameter made from aluminum. I quickly found out that diameter was larger than needed for smaller tools so I made some much smaller in diameter and they are far more comfortable in my hand. (I have to use steel for the smallest for enough strength in the threads for the set screws since there is not much space between the ID and OD.

I have to qualify that by saying this is more comfortable when I am using smaller tools and turning smaller things, usually spindles and thin spindles. For these I hold the tool with one hand, usually right at the working end of the handle, with the other handle supporting the spindle. Probably not an issue if holding the handle in two hands, away from the end.

Regardless of what you choose, it would be nice if you could somehow try one somehow before buying to make sure it fits your hand.

JKJ

[Steve Mathews]

John - Being able to try out the Stuart Batty/Robust collet handle is one of the reasons I'm leaning in that direction. Woodworkers Emporium in Las Vegas has them and they are the closest woodturning store to me. The setup comes in either ER25 or E32 and 12", 16" and 22" lengths.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I took a good long look at those handles at the Oregon Symposium a couple of weeks ago. Brent (Robust) shared the space with Woodworkers Emporium. I do like the lightweight, carbon fiber handles, and I'm already used to the Robust collet system, so it was an attractive combination. Just didn't have a need for more handles right now. Seems like they had a comfortable profile, too - won't roll around when you set them down.
My go to handle for roughing is either the long Robust or the long D-Way with the quick change knob. I find myself sharpening often both when roughing and on outside finish cuts with large gouges (1/2" - 5/8"). There is little difference in how long it takes to take the tool out of the handle with either option. Besides, when I go to the grinder, I'm not looking for speed particularly...

[Grant Wilkinson]

John: To reply to your question, the Clewes cam locks are not bored through. You are limited as to how far the tool can be inserted into them.