Which hand tool for edge fluting

[Todd Zucker]

I am building a split top roubo, not quite in accordance with the Benchcrafted plans. Below is a photo, just so this post is less boring.

I am working on the sliding deadman, which is about 1.5 inches thick. I would like to put a slight "fingernail flute" along the left and right edges.

I was about to purchase a fluting router bit (Amana 54306). But, the leg vise is like a tractor beam magically pushing me towards hand tools.

I am wondering what the best hand tool would be to do that same kind of edge, and if there are several options (which I am sure there must be), I would prefer to get something that is not a single-purpose tool and one that isn't hard for a hand-tool newbie to use. The deadman is looking decent, I would hate to screw it up or have it come out looking like a bad first effort.

The edges of the deadman, by the way, are like the typical roubo and aren't straight. They have a couple of 1.25" radius curves on each side, so that might affect the answer.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


357803

[Jim Koepke]

I am wondering what the best hand tool would be to do that same kind of edge, and if there are several options (which I am sure there must be)

As you suspect there are many ways to skin this cat. The best tool for the job is one you may already have or is easy to make.

The easiest to make is what is often called a 'scratch stock'. The desired profile is formed (in reverse of course) into a piece of saw blade or other easily worked metal and then mounted into a piece of wood.

Here is an old tutorial found by searching > scratch stock < on SMC:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?97319-Scratch-Stock-Simple-Easy-Effective-(Photo-Tutorial)

This one shows how to make a bead. Use the opposite profile for a flute.

You may want to use a two step process. Use a rebate (rabbet) plane, rebate scratch or a chamfering scratch stock to clear out most of the waste before making the final profile.

This would likely be your easiest, least expensive, route for a one time use.

My guess from your asking is you do not have any molding planes or gouges.

jtk

[Allen Jordan]

Veritas and Lie Nielsen sell beading tools that are just fancy scratch stocks. They would work well.

[Todd Zucker]

Thanks for the good tips. Making the scratch stock--from scratch, so to speak--looks like a good project. I have a cheap plastic handled handsaw that looks terrible in the rack next to the vintage saws I inherited and doesn't cut very well either. Maybe I can cut that into pieces.

[Frederick Skelly]

The easiest to make is what is often called a 'scratch stock'. The desired profile is formed (in reverse of course) into a piece of saw blade or other easily worked metal and then mounted into a piece of wood.

Here is an old tutorial found by searching > scratch stock < on SMC:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?97319-Scratch-Stock-Simple-Easy-Effective-(Photo-Tutorial)

Very helpful post Jim. Thank you!
Fred

[Jim Koepke]

I have a cheap plastic handled handsaw that looks terrible in the rack next to the vintage saws I inherited and doesn't cut very well either. Maybe I can cut that into pieces.

Check the teeth with a file. If they are induction hardened they will likely have to be ground off.

Cutting saw plate can be a challenge. A Dremel with a cutting wheel can help. There are a few other ways to cut and then shape a saw plate into a scratch stock blade.

Be careful, once you get the hang of it you will want to make more.


Very helpful post Jim. Thank you!
Fred

Glad to be of help. My search mojo seems to be working good so it may as well get a bit of exercise.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Stanley No. 66 might be something to keep an eye out for.....