Never got this bit in the Grizzly Jointer manual

[Vinny Papaleo]

http://i.imgur.com/9VmWseZ.png

It's step 4. I've always jointed both edges on my jointer, as I don't have a table saw. I use the flattened face to get 90 degree edge from it flat, and then flip it and do the other 90 degree edge using the same, flat face.
Only thing I can figure is that the table saw blade will last longer than the jointer blades!

[Dave Cav]

Jointing both edges will often result in a board with a tapered width. When you rip with the jointed edge against the rip fence, you end up with perfectly parallel edges.

[Greg Parrish]

If you joint both edges, they may be square to the wood faces but not parallel and square to each other.

[glenn bradley]

As others have stated; there is no assurance of parallel edges.

[scott spencer]

If you have a planer, you'd probably be better off planing the second edge...if its wide enough to stand up, at least it'll be parallel with the first jointed edge. If it's not wide enough, you could try ganging multiple boards together. If you don't have a planer, maybe a hand router with a straight bit and fence extension that references the jointed edge would do the trick....could be tricky though.

[Chris Hachet]

If you have a planer, you'd probably be better off planing the second edge...if its wide enough to stand up, at least it'll be parallel with the first jointed edge. If it's not wide enough, you could try ganging multiple boards together. If you don't have a planer, maybe a hand router with a straight bit and fence extension that references the jointed edge would do the trick....could be tricky though.


Table saw should do the job fine with proper feather boards and technique.

[John Ciambriello]

No tablesaw no problem. After jointing edge on jointer you can use a good straight edge and router with a flush-trim bit (with bearing) to get that other edge jointed. How parallel this edge will be depends on the precision used to locate the straight edge. You could use your ruler but better yet use a story stick or spacer block to repeat measurements.
Good luck.

[Jim Riseborough]

Do you just keep jointing the edge until you are close to the width you need? Seems alot of work.

[Dave Cav]

I'll go out on a limb and suggest that it the OP is taking the trouble to flatten and joint stock with a jointer, he might strongly consider making a table saw his next purchase.

[Andrew Hughes]

Vinney your going to have a great day when your next build doesn't have boards with a taper.:)
Celebration time!

[scott spencer]

I'll go out on a limb and suggest that it the OP is taking the trouble to flatten and joint stock with a jointer, he might strongly consider making a table saw his next purchase.

+1...excellent suggestion.

[Bill Dufour]

When I am jointing to make a wider board I do not worry about parallel. tapered boards are fine until they are all glued together then I have to cut for width and parallel. Of course too much taper will cause problems during glueup as it tends to make clamps slip.